57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[FAKKY]

Wel with almost $100 in 2x cut hoeses ..... new ls radiator thermostat, 1.75=>1.5" adapter at radiator end and $20 lost coolant ... I still dont have a working leak free solution here.

Think Im probbaly going to have to pull the radiator and weld a 1.5" pipe where the 1.75" is ..... to shorten that run .... and make a 90 ...

[FAKKY]

See if this gives me more room.
Pulled the radiator off ... cut the 1.75 off and welded in 1.5.

[FAKKY]

Well we may be the slowest truck (build) in the lineup .... but with some luck and all your(s) help .... we still take a step forward .....and will get her done.

Tested with air to 40psi and soap water. Found 2 leaks ... tightened the vlamps some more .... no more leaks.

[FAKKY]

1) I currently have the Engine Harness hooked up and working. Looks like this.



12v battery is 30A fused.
Starter Solenoid goes through NSS and then to 30A relay.
Truck starts only in P=N and runs great.

But Now i need to tie in the EZ harness. I think it would go ....

1) The only power supply wire is the larger red wire labelled SOLENOID POWER -- which I would tie to the starter on the main side (opposite solenoid) for constant 12v.

2) The only other wires to make harness work would be

a)IGN SW IGN wire that would be tied to the IGN switch alongside with the engine/ls harness wire ..... or I guess just the EZ IGN wire - then join the IGN wire of the LS harness to the COIL wire of the EZ harness. Not sure it matters.

b) IGN SW ACC wire for accessories, lights ... so on.

[FAKKY]

#318 post ... you can see where the bracket and AC unit is too wide an high it actually prevented the glovebox from opening.
Fixed that today.




Might have to align just a little later ..... and I'll probably put a face plate over the top gap with a chevy emblem cutout.

[FAKKY]

AC lines done.
Pulling a vacuum now.

[joedoh]

good job! i never invested in ac tools, but should have, could've used them three times in the last year

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

good job! i never invested in ac tools, but should have, could've used them three times in the last year

Yeah I rarely use them oviously - I had them from chasing down a leak years ago on my first truck ......

Coming in useful now.

Side note/question.
How does the locking mechanism work on the hood support hinges on firewall. I bolted these up a few weeks back .... and was playing with them last night and noticed they are fully locked ... when I push down on them .... they dont move. I thought they were just spring tension. Seems not.

[FAKKY]

Wondering if anyone has taken their exhaust outside the frame and run over the rear axle at rear on outside ? Pics ?

If have 2 options because of my fuel tank on passanger side frame rail.

Run both outside of frame.
Run a 90 behind transmission and 90 again and run both down drivers side. Be tight. Might mean running a 90 again somewhere to get both pipes over the axle ..... and maybe a H bridge.

[dsraven]

I have seen them outside the frame, it depends on the room you have between the frame and tires. leave room for heat dissipation or install a heat shield so you don't cook a tire or soften a sidewall while stopped in traffic. one down each side gives you duals out the back.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I have seen them outside the frame, it depends on the room you have between the frame and tires. leave room for heat dissipation or install a heat shield so you don't cook a tire or soften a sidewall while stopped in traffic. one down each side gives you duals out the back.

Thx dsraven.
Good point on the heat shield - didnt even think about it that far back being a problem... but I'd rather be safe.

Ill upload some pics so people can see what I am working with.
I think I will try and get it run inside the frame ..... but when I was under the truck looking at space I was like - wow - sure be easier running it outside
lol.

[dsraven]

maybe if you can clear up some space on one side then go with a larger pipe to accommodate the flow. different sound out the back but that would get it done.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

maybe if you can clear up some space on one side then go with a larger pipe to accommodate the flow. different sound out the back but that would get it done.

You mean a 2 into 1 (larger) like a y pipe ?

Something like ...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/j...xoCb4sQAvD_BwE

[dsraven]

Some mufflers have a dual and a single out. Maybe better flow than a Y. Y may be cheaper and easier depending on space limitations. Seen lots on big city delivery trucks with 2 in one out. Big block trucks so flow must not be too terrible.

[FAKKY]

Gauge cluster installed


Bracket for the fuse block off the side of the hydroboost/brake.



Wiring routed through firewall. Waiting on some 1/2" split loom.





Got to work out the column wiring.
Looks like in the book there is only provisioning for turn signals - lights No.
Soo assume that means lights to dash mounted controls.

A;so which of these connectors ..... I *think* the one connected .... but they both came in the EZ 21 circuit wiring kit with no instructions.

[joedoh]

the difference for the column is that some cars/trucks have separate bulbs for turn signals and brake lights, and some have the same bulb for brake and turn. you use the wiring that matches what your taillights are doing.

for example my old mazda B2200 had a turn signal at the top of the taillight and a brake light in the middle. one day I had a need to hook up a trailer wiring harness that had the same bulb for brake and turn and when hooked to my mazda when I turned on the turn signal both sides flashed, I had to get an adapter


that gauge cluster is gorgeous by the way.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

the difference for the column is that some cars/trucks have separate bulbs for turn signals and brake lights, and some have the same bulb for brake and turn. you use the wiring that matches what your taillights are doing.

for example my old mazda B2200 had a turn signal at the top of the taillight and a brake light in the middle. one day I had a need to hook up a trailer wiring harness that had the same bulb for brake and turn and when hooked to my mazda when I turned on the turn signal both sides flashed, I had to get an adapter


that gauge cluster is gorgeous by the way.

Oh didnt realize that - but that makes sense.
Waiting on the loom to arrive before I run wires down to the rear but Im going to have a lot of extra wires left over.

Fan, oil, fuel and all that is already done via the LS harness.
No power windows, doors. AC has its own standalone harness. Alternator exciter wire.

Thanks on the cluster - I went cheap on the AC unit and put the money there.... one day I may relocate the AC back behind the dash ....

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

and some have the same bulb for brake and turn. you use the wiring that matches what your taillights are doing.

So that looks like what I have given there is only a single bulb.
Pics.

Looks like drivers side had a 12v and 2 grounds
whereas pasenger skide just 2 grounds.
But I cant be sure as all cut.

So assuming these need to get signal from both the brake lights and turn signals ...... (flashers) ....... but not 100% sure how they should be wired.

[joedoh]

looks like 2 hots and a ground, which might be what you meant, just got mixed up.

either way, looks like a standard 1157 bulb with two filaments, the two wires that attach to the base are the hots, one wire for park light (the dim) and one wire for brake turn (the bright). that bulb grounds through the metal base, looks like a pot metal casting. that spade connector is an additional ground, usually just screwing that pot metal base to the sheetmetal is enough ground, which is why the other side doesnt have it, but if they give you the extra, might as well use it! take it right to the frame with a nice star washer.

so yes, you have (and really most all chevys have) the shared turn/brake bulb.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

looks like 2 hots and a ground, which might be what you meant, just got mixed up.

Ha - no I had no idea ..... the single wire was red so I assumed hot and the two wires together were black so assumed ground. Yes definitely two filament bulb.


So I assume then I would take the brake rear left brake park light wire from harness as well as the rear left indicator wire from harness and attach each to the power black wires.
Then ground the other (red wire).

Same one the other side (right).
What provides a signal for reverse lights in this setup ?

If I wanted to completely remove this setup for something new ..... do they have it ? Just mean A more complete single setup with new wiring and connectors. I searched but only found

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Park-Tai...IAAOSwvjtcugbj

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Ha - no I had no idea ..... the single wire was red so I assumed hot and the two wires together were black so assumed ground. Yes definitely two filament bulb.


So I assume then I would take the brake rear left brake park light wire from harness as well as the rear left indicator wire from harness and attach each to the power black wires.
Then ground the other (red wire).

Same one the other side (right).
What provides a signal for reverse lights in this setup ?

If I wanted to completely remove this setup for something new ..... do they have it ? Just mean A more complete single setup with new wiring and connectors. I searched but only found

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Park-Tai...IAAOSwvjtcugbj

you would only use the indicator wires for each side and then wire the column as a single bulb setup, you only use the brake wire if you have the column wired that way and again, only if you have separate bulbs.


the reverse lights run through a reverse switch on the trans.

if you replaced the lights, you would still have the same wiring decision to make, it would be a lateral move. regarding the colors, for whatever reason, aftermarket lights seem to follow a different, non intuitive wire color scheme

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

you would only use the indicator wires for each side and then wire the column as a single bulb setup, you only use the brake wire if you have the column wired that way and again, only if you have separate bulbs.

the reverse lights run through a reverse switch on the trans.

if you replaced the lights, you would still have the same wiring decision to make, it would be a lateral move. regarding the colors, for whatever reason, aftermarket lights seem to follow a different, non intuitive wire color scheme

The wiring through the column is pretty much as shown in this diagram.


So I assume i then run the following wires to the two positive (black) you mentioned.

• left rear turn
• left tail park

Ground the 1 wire on drivers side.

Then repeat for Right (passenger side).


If thats right ....... my question would be ..... the reverse light wires of the transmission - do they "plug/splice" into these wires also ..... or do I buuy seperate backup lights and mount them and wire to those.

thx

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

The wiring through the column is pretty much as shown in this diagram.


So I assume i then run the following wires to the two positive (black) you mentioned.

• left rear turn
• left tail park

Ground the 1 wire on drivers side.

Then repeat for Right (passenger side).


If thats right ....... my question would be ..... the reverse light wires of the transmission - do they "plug/splice" into these wires also ..... or do I buuy seperate backup lights and mount them and wire to those.

thx

yep you have it right so far.

as for the reverse lights, they dont plug or splice into those wires, only the brake/turn wire comes from the column. the park light wire comes from the headlight switch and the reverse light wire comes from the trans direct to the reverse lights you buy and install.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

yep you have it right so far.

as for the reverse lights, they dont plug or splice into those wires, only the brake/turn wire comes from the column. the park light wire comes from the headlight switch and the reverse light wire comes from the trans direct to the reverse lights you buy and install.

Got it - that makes sense.
What do people usually do for these trucks - required for reverse lights ?

Guess whatever you want ......
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...RoCNawQAvD_BwE


thanks

[joedoh]

if you want a stylish one, that looks nice. if I ever put one on I will get an LED fog light and install it under the bed so its mostly invisible when off but looks like a blinding portal to heaven when I need to back up.

where I live though the LED tail lights do a great job of lighting things up behind me.