Restoring Rusty

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by enaberif

This is why when using stainless hardware in places that isn't stainless you should use a anti-size coating of some sort to prevent seizing or corrosion.

Galvanic corrosion "galling" between active 410, 304, & 316 Stainless and Cast Iron or Cast Steel is not slowed enough by the application of Nickel based anti-sieize compounds to be equal to steel bolts with the same coating. Be careful of your anti-seize flavor of choice. Copper based anti-sieze can cause galling in aluminum and stainless parts.

Passivated 304 & 316 stainless, either by oxidizing in an air furnace or treating the surface with an acid to cause an oxide to form, is much better at resisting galling but is also more expensive.

[Gregski]

man I am pretty proud of myself when it comes to this project

mandatory before and after shots

[Gregski]

and some close ups for those in the cheap seats

I gotta ask: Do it matter which way the open ends of the rubber bushings go/face ie towards the front? or the back of the vehicle?

[enaberif]

On a 2wd truck that is lowered the stiffer you can be the better the road handling is. Rubber is fine but requires replacement more often than poly.

One thing your new bushings do not have is grease nipples to keep them working and being supple.

Regarding the slit no it does not matter and just becomes preference.

[Gregski]

Slippery Grip Garage was closed yesterday on the account of it being 104° F

so we opened early today at 0600 and installed the new purple(ish) 43 tooth driven speedo gear and that little baby seal

we put some white lightning grease on the shaft of that gear and around the big rubber O-ring

we also topped off the transmission with some Red Wine (ha ha)

Good News: now our odometer is only .1 off for every 6 miles we drive, good enuff fer now, IT'S A TRUCK!

[Gregski]

time for Doo Dadz, I don't know about you, but I like doing finishing touches like this, makes things look complete, makes it look like it was meant to be

we ended up using one 3/8" and one 1/2"

[Gregski]

a little WD-40 on your pinky finger and lubbed up the inside for better slideability

heater core? what heater core? now no one will even be able to tell it was ever there, ha ha

[Gregski]

Monday, drove the truck in to work today! Great feeling guys I'm sure you all can relate after pulling off a big project. Truck runs strong, windows down, wind in my face, its going to be hot driving back home this afternoon, but the morning drive was glorious.

Speedo is spot on up to 50 MPH than deviates slightly and is about 5 MPH off by the time I'm doing 75 MPH on the highway, maybe tire pressure and a different tire size can dial it in further, but for now it will do, most of my driving aint on the freeway anyways

Ordered a new rear window seal from Classic Parts (love their printed catalog, yes I'm old school and it makes for a great toilet read, ha ha, also it aint got no salt & pepper shakers nor bunch of "universal" parts, nothing but essentials, plus its all in COLOR cause it's 2016. - I'm looking at you LMC Truck) hope to install that tinted slider window next.

[Gregski]

went out and bought a Mr. Gasket inline fuel pressure guage at AutoZone, wanted to see what my current fuel pump is delivering before I replace it (on the suspision that that's where the ticking noise is coming from)

[Gregski]

since they didn't have a single piece T with two 5/16 hose ends, I had to get these fittings

[Gregski]

got it all installed and learned that an inline fuel pressure gauge with a mechanical fuel pump jumps around constantly as the car is runnin' so it aint much use, I did turn the car off and ran and took a pic before the gauge fully dropped, here it is a few PSI lower than when its running

Pic 1 - truck off, just showing you the gauge installed

Pic 2 - right after I shut it off and captured some pressure

[Woodyboat]

Originally Posted by Gregski

... an inline fuel pressure gauge ... aint much use,

Yeah, it's kinda difficult to see it from the driver's seat. Is that what you're saying here? LOL

[79sierra]

That's about right for a stock pump, usually just under 6 psi. Performance pumps can be 7-9 psi.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Woodyboat

Yeah, it's kinda difficult to see it from the driver's seat. Is that what you're saying here? LOL

No, I mean the needle moves spastically back and forth so you can't tell what number it is on.

here I made a video of it, please take a looksee

Mr. Gasket Inline Fuel Pressure Gauge in Action Video

[SkinnyG]

It's ~averaging~ 6psi.

[enaberif]

I thought on edelbrock carbs they were happier around the 4-5 psi marking or they could flood themselves?

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by enaberif

I thought on edelbrock carbs they were happier around the 4-5 psi marking or they could flood themselves?

this is true to my knowledge but he has a holley I don't know what they like though any input anyone?

[Gregski]

so just to remind everyone I am still trying to track down / eliminate that mystery engine ticking sound, and trying Marvely Mystery Oil additive (did not fix a thing) so I ordered a brand new GM Chevrolet Performance fuel pump as some suggested it may be my old fuel pump making that sound

Part Number: 12355612

[Gregski]

this is my cheapie generic no name brand old one

not sure this looks like normal wear on the shaft lever thingie, we shall see

[Gregski]

the new fuel pump is very well made (in the USA), here I have it installed for a trial fit

as you can see with the outlet at 9 PM it goes right into the motor mount, the inlet at 3 PM is fine, but they move together, so looks like will have to re clock it (this is very similar to re clocking and alternator) it just means moving the connectors around

it also sits way too close to the passenger side motor mount, I think it touches

[Gregski]

re clocking this fuel pump is pretty easy, you just have to undo the 10 screws and rotate the base over which ever way you need it, I am going to try an Inlet at 7 PM and Outlet at 1 PM, type a setup, since the inlet and outlet pivot together your choices are somewhat limited, for instance 6 pm works for the Inlet but that puts the Outlet at noon and straight into the base of the block, not gonna work

[Gregski]

and here's a mandatory side by side comparison

old fuel pump vs new fuel pump, notice how the cheap one on the left (1/5th the cost) comes with both an inlet connector, where as the more expensive one does not, LOL

[Gregski]

so I had to go out and buy a bunch of different fittings, one of these ought to work

I am running 3/8th from the fuel tank to the fuel pump and 5/16 from the fuel pump to the carb

you really wanna check these fittings in the store as some folks put the wrong ones in the boxes (ask me how I know, lol) very frustrating late at night as you're trying to slip that hard 5/16 fuel injection line over the 3/8th barb that should have been 5/16th, ha ha

[Gregski]

so lets try this setup, a 90* elbow in and a straight shooter out

[Gregski]

man this just aint gonna work CLEARANCE, CLEARANCE, CLEARANCE problems

even after I shoved a philips screw driver in the 90* inlet to bend it some more it still hits the motor mount support bracket

and underneath the motor mount hits/rubs against the fuel pump

man I really don't want to start grinding on this beautiful brand new fuel pump to get it to fit, it's just too big, the diameter or circumfrence however you look at it

wonderin' if anyone on this forum is actually runnin' this GM fuel pump on their trucks?