What did you do to your truck today.The 3rd chapter

[doug_p]

Finished kilmat installation in the drivers side foot well and adjusted the clutch pedal to sit at the same height as the brake pedal, both of which are now approximately 2.5" above throttle pedal height. Unfortunately no pics here at work =(

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by LNP

Maybe it was powder coated

In 68 ? I highly doubt that . But it’s back together regardless.

[Jiggers72-GMC]

Well done Mark, it looks great ......... new old stock

[LNP]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

In 68 ? I highly doubt that . But it’s back together regardless.

I'm not sure when part manufacturers started using powder coating but I do know it was invented in the 40's. Either way that looks great.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by LNP

I'm not sure when part manufacturers started using powder coating but I do know it was invented in the 40's. Either way that looks great.

Not doubting the timeframe . Lots of new cars have powder coated parts as the price is reasonable and longevity is needed . Around that time it was keep the line moving and sell those trucks . They didn’t care about 5 or 6 year old parts rusting :lol.

Now the heater box looks bad . That will be this falls project should have done it when I painted the interior .

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Jiggers72-GMC

Well done Mark, it looks great ......... new old stock

Helps when the part is nice to begin with . Thanks for the compliment

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by 69Penka

I bought and installed a paint protector that goes around the ignition bezel, i installed some '72 DG4 mirrors that are in super good condition i bought on CL for $30.00 and I drilled the holes to install my lower trim moldings in prep for paint.

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Where you get that paint protector? I could use one of those.

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

I was wondering the same thing.

Well after searching forever on my own for 2 weeks I found and ordered 2 from JLFabrication.com ...https://jlfabrication.com/collection...b6903769&_ss=r , hope this helps you Rich72C10.

[72c20customcamper]

Got the lighter working . I ended up buying a complete cigar lighter at Autozone it fit the bezel perfectly and had regular flat male connectors so it was easy enough to wire it up . And the chrome socket looks right at home in the truck

[un4gvn!]

Decided to put the inner front wheel wells back on. I drove this truck for years with out them. It was easier to work around the engine compartment with out them being in the way. Plus we raced this truck and it made the truck a little lighter plus the help of other parts we took off. Every thing missing is going back on. Racing is over for me.

[Steeveedee]

Looked at prices at a couple of vendors for a replacement grill and some components. Big differences, as in hundreds of dollars for what seem to be similar products. Crazy. I really wish my FiL hadn't butchered the original grill.

[Chevys4life]

Originally Posted by un4gvn!

Decided to put the inner front wheel wells back on. I drove this truck for years with out them. It was easier to work around the engine compartment with out them being in the way. Plus we raced this truck and it made the truck a little lighter plus the help of other parts we took off. Every thing missing is going back on. Racing is over for me.

I had to replace my heater core on mine and need to put it back in. It has some rust and don't feel like fixing it and considered just buying new ones. There is always something to do on these old trucks.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Chevys4life

I had to replace my heater core on mine and need to put it back in. It has some rust and don't feel like fixing it and considered just buying new ones. There is always something to do on these old trucks.

The rust would most likely be easier to fix than getting aftermarket inner aprons to fit right .

[un4gvn!]

These are the original GM inners and they were not fun to install. Getting all the holes to line up wasn't easy. We used Chineese inners on our 68 and they went right on. I antisapated (if that's how to spell it) the GM inners were going to be a snap. It took one complete day to install but no drill was used. Lots of putting screw drivers in the holes and lots of prying.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by un4gvn!

These are the original GM inners and they were not fun to install. Getting all the holes to line up wasn't easy. We used Chineese inners on our 68 and they went right on. I antisapated (if that's how to spell it) the GM inners were going to be a snap. It took one complete day to install but no drill was used. Lots of putting screw drivers in the holes and lots of prying.

Never had a problem removing and reinstalling originals . I tried aftermarket’s on my 68 and abandoned that adventure . My originals were nice but I found a set of Arizona take offs . So I still have originals for my next project.

[72c20customcamper]

Something every day or week . I used striping tape to get the hood lip white . Just wanted to make sure I liked it prior to painting . I posted it in my hood thread too

[Steeveedee]

^ I like it!

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

^ I like it!

Me too . Guess I’ll be painting next time I paint up some rims

[UNEASYRIDER]

Making a new cab cover!

[body bolt]

I intentionally drove off a curb I thought would be no problem and knocked my exhaust pipe loose. Guess what I'm doing tomorrow...

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by UNEASYRIDER

Making a new cab cover!

That will keep the Sun out of the cab.
Home Depot sells this silver-mylar backed bubble wrap stuff by the roll. You could line that Cab Cap with the silver stuff and really keep your cab cool. Or cut out panels matching the windows and fix them on the inside. Auto parts stores sell accordian-folded sheets of the stuff pre-cut for the front windshield, but if you're parked in full sun all day, the angle shifts. The rolls are cheaper than the pre-cut shields.
Long time Tucsonan here. We have the same problem.

[pjmoreland]

Getting close to being done with the A/C install. Did a leak test and it passed. Next step is to put in the refrigerant.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Getting close to being done with the A/C install. Did a leak test and it passed. Next step is to put in the refrigerant.

Rocky Raccoon's coming along nicely.
Did you always have a puke tank? I hadn't noticed before.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Rocky Raccoon's coming along nicely.
Did you always have a puke tank? I hadn't noticed before.

I added that a little while ago. Got it from PICKMUP

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=607136

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I added that a little while ago. Got it from PICKMUP

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=607136

OK. Cool. I got the Nova type a few years ago. Tucks in next to the Batt and follows the curve of the Fender Skirt. Had it in my Stepside w/ 292, but L6s run so cool, I didn't need it. I pulled it from OrangeSunshine and put it in the '71 GMC Jimmy [Blue Thunder]. In April, I had the radiator resoldered. New 160* thermostat. I changed the Radiator Cap to a non-vent lever type, but still 16#. It does not seem to be filling the reserve tank.
I probably need to put on longer bolts and a new gasket w/ RTV on the Thermostat housing, since I get a lot of green glycol residue there on top of the intake manifold. So the system is not ''closed'' enough.
I did get a vapor lock up, after a shut down stop last Tuesday, in 112* heat outside, on a Tucson late afternoon. But the 350 started up on the 3rd or 4th try.
Autometer mechanical temp gauge only indicated 180*.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Autometer mechanical temp gauge only indicated 180*.

I noticed that my truck runs cooler after I added the puke tank. I'm assuming it's because now the radiator can be filled all the way to the top.