Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by valarius_starchaser

no greg your not........... Your married to yourself with a nice roommate

lol

[Gregski]

and here is the Holley 12-834 fuel pump installed

PROs: it fits

CONs: it's cheap, its too shinny, it feels flimzy, its expensive

I would not recommend this product to anyone

[Gregski]

Fuel Pump Replacement Top Tip (F.P.R.T.T.)

use the magnet on a stick to slide the fuel pump push rod back up, or at least get that oily sucker up high enuff to get your finger under it (I know guys recommend using a longer bolt in that side hole to hold it up, but what if you aint got the clearance to get to that bolt, or you forgot and it dropped already, etc.)

use the hacksaw blade to hold it up while you slide the new fuel pump lever under it, the blade is thin enuff and bendy enuff to git the job done

hugs

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

and here is the Holley 12-834 fuel pump installed

PROs: it fits

CONs: it's cheap, its too shinny, it feels flimzy, its expensive

I would not recommend this product to anyone

There's no reason to make it cheap and flimsy. There are plenty of products our of Korea, Taiwan, and even mainland China that are not. They specified cheap and flimsy or didn't refuse shipment when their supplier screwed them.
Looks like the short sighted pencil pushing bean counters are working on murdering Holley the same way they murdered Carter.
"Here's to the pencil pushers... may they all get lead poisoning."--Eddie Valiant

[Gregski]

So did replacing the fuel pump get rid of the engine ticking sound?

NO

[Gregski]

I read on these forums that some guys have tried MARVEL Mystery Oil additive and that eliminated their ticking sounds, so The Greg tried it, but to no surprise this snake oil also let him down, and the ticking sound remained

[Gregski]

some forum members suggested that the noise could be coming from the Primitive Crancase Ventilation valve, PCV, so I removed it temporarily and the ticking sound remained, so that can't be it

[Gregski]

The Greg remembered that one time when he was lazy he took his beloved '97 Chevy Tahoe to Jiffy Lube for a quick oil change, and those knuckleheads used the wrong oil weight and his valves chatter was more annoying than Gregory Hines tap dancing until he quenched his rigs thirst with the proper and Vortec friendly SAE 5W-30 nectar

so since O'Really was having an oil special, 5 quarts plus oil filter for $18 bucks, he went out and got some

Note: The MicroGuard oil filter was Made in U.S.A.

and did that eliminate the engine ticking sound?

NO

[Gregski]

that's it, that does it, then it was time to Conquer by Division

So, The Greg believing the ticking sound was a comin' from the passenger side, he did the following.

1. Unplugged the #8 spark plug wire from the distributor - the noise was there, so plugged it back in

2. Unplugged the #6 spark plug wire from the distributor - the noise was there, so plugged it back in

3. Unplugged the #4 spark plug wire from the distributor - THE NOISE WAS GONE - then plugged it back in and the noise came back

4. Unplugged the #2 spark plug wire from the distributor - the noise was there, so plugged it back in


FYI I turned the truck off each time I manipulated the spark plug leads, remember safety third!!!

[Gregski]

so I removed the passenger side valve cover and checked the #4 Intake and Exhaust rockers for wiggability, there was no extra play there

Next, I removed the Intake rocker completely to inspect it and removed the push rod and rolled it on a flat surface to ensure it was straight and not bent, and they both appeared to be good

I ran the truck without them but the loose lifter now was tapping so I could not really isolate the ticking sound

I put the Intake pushrod and rocker back in and removed the Exhaust ones and inspected them as well, they also looked good, and running the engine without this one also did not help me determine where the sound was coming from

removing both rockers forced me to re adjust them which is what I wanted to do, I wanted to start from scratch with these two, and so I did I put #1 on TDC and adjusted the #4 Exhaust valve, than I put #6 on TDC and adjusted the #4 Intake valve

and did that eliminate the engine ticking sound?

NO

[SkinnyG]

Oh no.

[SkinnyG]

No - pulling the plug wire off, and the sound goes away, is usually a piston problem.

[Gregski]

so then it was time for some Deductive Reasoning

1. the noise was there before I rebuilt the Top End

2. after replacing the Cylinder Heads, Cam, Lifters, Push Rods, Timing Set, and Water Pump the noise was still there

3. there is no play in the #4 intake or exhaust valves so it can't be a collapsed lifter

so I think it's a worn con rod

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

No - pulling the plug wire off, and the sound goes away, is usually a piston problem.

yes Sir, I agree, the violent explosion is eliminated and that's what usually tests and rattles the bottom end, so yup, time to face the music

Hmmmm, who needs 8 cylinders anyway... Ladies and Gentlemen I give you the [ahem] Fuel Efficient V7 runs quieter too than a regular V8

[rich weyand]

Yeah, it's in the bottom-end.

Simplest, maybe cheapest, and most complete (i.e. not leaving other problems for later issues) is to get the 350/260 crate engine and transplant your top-end onto it. New pistons, rings, rods, bearings, 100% clean passages, all in one package. Drop the Vortec top end on it, swap the cam, and you're done.

$1500 and free shipping from either JEGS or Summit.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Yeah, it's in the bottom-end.

Simplest, maybe cheapest, and most complete (i.e. not leaving other problems for later issues) is to get the 350/260 crate engine and transplant your top-end onto it. New pistons, rings, rods, bearings, 100% clean passages, all in one package. Drop the Vortec top end on it, swap the cam, and you're done.

$1500 and free shipping from either JEGS or Summit.

I wouldn't want to go flat tapped style bottom end if I was to get a short block, I hate the two piece rear seal

[Gregski]

drop your pan and slowly back away

here we are looking at #4

checked all the con rods and they all shift a hair side to side uniformally 1 - 8

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I wouldn't want to go flat tapped style bottom end if I was to get a short block, I hate the two piece rear seal

For the first 100,000+ miles, it wouldn't matter.

[Gregski]

and here's what the #4 connection rod bearing looks like

Note: it still has the divits on it so it has not spun, which is the best I can say for it

so question is do I buy a stock replacement or a .002 over? and yes I am only replacing one bearing (I never said I am going to be proud of this "repair")

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

For the first 100,000+ miles, it wouldn't matter.

dudes tell me going roller gives you 20 more horse power with a slide of your credit card! LOL plus you aint gotta play the Zinc oil additives game

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Gregski

dudes tell me going roller gives you 20 more horse power with a slide of your credit card! LOL plus you aint gotta play the Zinc oil additives game

Just trying to hold down the wear and tear on the credit card.

Zinc additive is $5 per oil change. Not a biggie.

On the connecting rod bearing, yeah, I would go a couple thousandths over.

[Jake Wade]

They make .001 bearings as well as .002. See if your local parts store has some plastigauge so you can check things out, I would rather be a tad loose than too tight.

The bearings do not appear to be worn much. When you see copper, they are worn.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Zinc additive is $5 per oil change. Not a biggie.

not arguing with you, but not in California here's a pic I took for you at our local NAPA store today, so with tax and license you're looking at $20 bucks out the door

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

... The bearings do not appear to be worn much. When you see copper, they are worn.

I concur, here's what the con rod looked like

[Gregski]

went ahead and bought just a standard size bearing, for like $4.00 bucks

man where will I get my bearings when Trump builds that wall (kidding folks, don't get all political on me, let's just make this truck great again!)