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Old 06-18-2016, 04:24 PM   #4201
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Re: Restoring Rusty

one thing I did not bother mentioning is that my beloved new Summit digital oil pressure gauge stopped working after only 2 weeks of service, we was too busy chasing engine noises remember

anywho, how do you test this puppy, well it still turns on and shows 00 so the ground is good, and the power is good, and I even re wired it to the sending unit, so what gives?

so lets test the sending unit, apparently you can use your MultiMeter set on the sound wave symbol sign thingie, continuity they call it, well all that means is do you have a connection, or is it broken

you start off by tapping the two leads of the meter together and you should get a reading of 0 and the thing should beep or buzz, than you connect it to your sending unit, it don't matter which end goes where, there is no polarity, you connect one end to the housing (housing usually is ground) and the other lead to the connection tip, and in our case we get no buzz and a reading of 236(ish) that be bad
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Old 06-18-2016, 04:27 PM   #4202
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Re: Restoring Rusty

as a side note, what's wrong with this picture?
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Old 06-18-2016, 04:31 PM   #4203
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Re: Restoring Rusty

and as always we compare the new part to the old part, here is a reading of my old oil pressure sending unit, this is what it looks like when it works

however I can't use this one with the new gauge because they are calibrated differently

just pretend you hear a beep when you look at the pics, ha ha
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Old 06-18-2016, 07:51 PM   #4204
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Re: Restoring Rusty

Be careful
GM oil pressure gauge senders are 0Ω=0PSI and 90Ω=max PSI.
Autometer, like the 1.5" gauge on my ATV, uses senders where 235Ω=0PSI and 0Ω=max PSI. Not sure who makes the Summit gauges but it appears they may be Autometer units or clones.

The way to be sure is to test the Ohmage with the sender installed and the engine running or with the sender installed on a pressure source.
It's a pressure transducer that converts pressure into resistance... There's no rule that says you can't screw the sender into a female thread Milton air hose disconnect fitting and attach it to your compressor hose, with the air hose regulator dialed down to between 30 & 60PSI or so, and observe what the ohmage does.
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1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
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1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
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2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
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Last edited by hatzie; 06-18-2016 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 06-18-2016, 08:57 PM   #4205
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Re: Restoring Rusty

Told ya that exhaust would drone like mad lol. Welcome to a cab of nothing but sheer metal and no insulation.
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Old 06-19-2016, 12:30 AM   #4206
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Re: Restoring Rusty - DynoMAX Mufflers

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so now that we took care of the big exhaust leak I can actually hear the new Flowmaster 40 Series exhaust, and I'll be honest with you, it needs some work

first it has a drone sound, around 1500 RPM it sounds like you are driving in a 4 door car and your kids rolled the windows down in the back, whoa whoa whoa... annoying to say the least

so it pays to have car buddies, I convinced my Mopar buddy Seth to loan me his brand new DynoMax mufflers for a test run (on the account of his Dodge truck being sidelined do to an enjin rebuild)

Notice how you can see right through the DynoMax mufflers, they have that straight through design, you can't see through the Flowmasters like that, some will argue that they flow better than the FlowMasters, I can't say either way. Also I've been told these are not directional, you can mount them offset in front or offset in the rear, there is no Input and specific Output.

so since these be 2.5" like mine they just bolted right up, and what's the verdict?

Well, they do sound different, these have a much more raspier sound, he calls it 60s muscle car sound, but more importantly they drone as well, so I am convinced that most if not all mufflers will drone unless you tune your exhaust system (more on that later)
Check out these SpinTech truck/rv mufflers. I plan on using a set when I build my new exhaust.
http://www.spintechmufflers.com/muff...30.html?page=2
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:51 AM   #4207
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Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by hatzie View Post
Be careful
GM oil pressure gauge senders are 0Ω=0PSI and 90Ω=max PSI.
Autometer, like the 1.5" gauge on my ATV, uses senders where 235Ω=0PSI and 0Ω=max PSI. Not sure who makes the Summit gauges but it appears they may be Autometer units or clones.

The way to be sure is to test the Ohmage with the sender installed and the engine running or with the sender installed on a pressure source.
It's a pressure transducer that converts pressure into resistance... There's no rule that says you can't screw the sender into a female thread Milton air hose disconnect fitting and attach it to your compressor hose, with the air hose regulator dialed down to between 30 & 60PSI or so, and observe what the ohmage does.
interesting, yes I will try to rig up some sort of bench test
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:52 AM   #4208
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Re: Restoring Rusty

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Told ya that exhaust would drone like mad lol. Welcome to a cab of nothing but sheer metal and no insulation.
are you saying I'm gonna have to drive around with a twelve pack on my passenger floor at all times in order to muffle the drone sound, honey, honey I need to go to the store
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:55 AM   #4209
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Re: Restoring Rusty

finally gettin' around to installing that used rear slider glass winder

this seal does seem like good quality
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:03 AM   #4210
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Re: Restoring Rusty

I can't tell where it was made as it only says MADE IN TH
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:05 AM   #4211
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Re: Restoring Rusty

some before pics of the old rear glass, in case we need to refer to them for installation later

note the little wrinkle in the last pic in the upper right hand corner of the winder
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:09 AM   #4212
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Re: Restoring Rusty

and a couple shots from the inside, sorry the lighting is terrible shooting against the sun
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:13 AM   #4213
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Re: Restoring Rusty

and the old single piece nothing wrong with rear glass is out

my son helped me catch it on the outside, I had him sit in the bed of the truck and assist, thank you son

The Russian Judge rated his enthusiasm as a 2.5 (out of 10, LOL) I on the other hand would have cut skul to stay home and work on an old beater truck with my grandpa pa
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:14 AM   #4214
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Re: Restoring Rusty

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interesting, yes I will try to rig up some sort of bench test
Depends on how low your regulator will go. My old compressor has a decent regulator that will dial down to 10PSI. Great for painting.
Run it down as low as you can and slowly dial it up to the max on your oil gauge while you watch the resistance. If it changes fairly smoothly in the correct direction the sender is not the issue.
__________________
1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8


RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:17 AM   #4215
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Re: Restoring Rusty

and the other side

yes there is a bit of rust action in there but we expected that, that's why this 2 hour winder replacement job is going to take us 2 weekends, lol (using our MWCJTZ - Married With Children & A Job Time Zone)

I am going to wire wheel the loose rust off than acid wash it like we always do, than paint over rust primer, and than paint to match, easy peasy
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:18 AM   #4216
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Re: Restoring Rusty

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Depends on how low your regulator will go. My old compressor has a decent regulator that will dial down to 10PSI. Great for painting.
Run it down as low as you can and slowly dial it up to the max on your oil gauge while you watch the resistance. If it changes fairly smoothly in the correct direction the sender is not the issue.
what's an air compressor? ha ha (like an idiot I sold both of mine) I am thinking bicycle pump
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:23 AM   #4217
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Re: Restoring Rusty

only tool needed to get the rear glass out is a box cutter, you will need to sacrifice the old seal, but hey its 40 years old it is crusty and hard as a rock, be careful not to loose a digit - remember Safety Third!
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:27 AM   #4218
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Re: Restoring Rusty

new(er) glass at the ready

not sure what that funky baking soda like corrosion at the base of it was, but nothing my trusty putty knife couldn't scrape off

this piece could use some black paint, but it may not if we is going for that patina look, ha ha, (that's lazy talk for aint gonna paint it)

did I mention our trucks come with built in work benches, take that you sissy Camerotalogists and Novaskosians

Eye Luv me Truck!!! do you love yours?
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Old 06-19-2016, 01:00 PM   #4219
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Re: Restoring Rusty

I didn't like all the rattling and other noise the slider allowed even when closed.
Swapped a solid one back in.

And weed wacker string will make an excellent way to rope in the new one
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Old 06-19-2016, 06:13 PM   #4220
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Re: Restoring Rusty

daughters are too much, got the color right and everything (and green is hard to match, lol)
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Old 06-20-2016, 11:35 PM   #4221
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Re: Restoring Rusty

Quote:
Originally Posted by hatzie View Post
The way to be sure is to test the Ohmage with the sender installed and the engine running or with the sender installed on a pressure source.

It's a pressure transducer that converts pressure into resistance...

There's no rule that says you can't screw the sender into a female thread Milton air hose disconnect fitting and attach it to your compressor hose, with the air hose regulator dialed down to between 30 & 60PSI or so, and observe what the
ohmage does.
Well I tested it with a rigged up rubber hose and a bicycle pump and the digits drecreased with each squirt of the pump, so I recon the sending unit is in working order. I than connected my old electronic oil pressure gauge to the old sending unit and no reading, the needle did not move with the truck running.

How can this be? How can the truck run super awesome and me have no oil pressure, yet I see oil dripping down the valve springs when I remove the rocker covers?
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Old 06-21-2016, 08:44 PM   #4222
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Re: Restoring Rusty

alright how hard can this be, we use some dish soap and water to apply lubrication and a slideability factor and we slip the rubber seal on the glass first

yes the wife was out of the house... ha ha
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Old 06-21-2016, 08:46 PM   #4223
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Re: Restoring Rusty

then using some cave man tools and with the help of my boy, I could not have done it without him, we had the thing in, in about 30 minutes

again we used some dish soap / in a windex spray bottle for lubrication

I kinda like the patina look of it, fits the truck, if it was all painted and shiny it would stick out like a soar thumb, yes that's what the lazy Greg tells himself for not painting this slider out of the car, ha ha
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Old 06-21-2016, 08:50 PM   #4224
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Re: Restoring Rusty

now back to real matters at hand, that 0 oil pressure issue

so I did a little test, where I hook up a clear hose to the oil pressure fitting and stick the other end in a 2 liter soda bottle and start the car, and by the time I get out of the cab to check on it, it puked a 1/4 of a quart of oil, so we know the volcano is a pumpin'
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Old 06-21-2016, 08:53 PM   #4225
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Re: Restoring Rusty

it took about 4 different unions, joins, and fittings to get my trusty ol' mechanical oil pressure gauge hooked back up, I kid you not, but I did it

I guess the original metal oil line comes with what appears like 1/8th coarse thread male fittings, and the new stuff is 1/4 fine thread I think

anywho, the analog / mechanical gauge works
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Last edited by Gregski; 06-21-2016 at 09:00 PM.
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