53 3100 - complete rebuild and upgrade . . . .

[Rickysnickers]

I'm just kidding . You are doing very nice work!!!

[youngrodder]

That chassis and drivetrain is looking very sanitary. Looking great.

Marc

[big_dan]

Thanks all! Still making progress; at this point I just try to get something done every day, no matter how small.

Spent several days studying on the finer details of all of the harness and EFI wiring considerations and had an epiphany- even though this little truck was a daily driver, I had always needed to do some door gap fine-tuning, and I have "upgrade" bear-jaw latches also. So - rather than put it off, get the truck running then not want to tackle it, I slapped the cab back on the chassis, bolted it down and we'll get the doors handled real quick.

More later-

Dan

[youngrodder]

Great plan Dan. Keep pushing forward.

Marc

[big_dan]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Great plan Dan. Keep pushing forward.

Marc

I hope so! I'm not the biggest fan of that part of projects. I tore into the passenger door last night and it didn't go too bad, so hopefully this'll go quick.

Side note - the visors some run on their rigs - are the "repop" parts any good or fab your own?

Thanks-

Dan

[big_dan]

Another update. Fished the bear claw latch on the passenger door, hung out and aligned. It's not perfect, but it's better than it was in the past. Fairly simple install and seems to be 100% better than the factory latch. Also I cheated and used my A- frame to hang the door - the easiest door I've ever hung! Should've thought of that years ago.

I've been asked about ground clearance with the motor/ trans as low a they are (7" to the pan and bell housing) so figured I'd snap a pic of the "speed bump" roll bar also. I used 1-3/4" DOM tubing; it's 6" off the ground so plenty of protection.

More later-

Dan

[youngrodder]

Looks like you've got all the bases covered.

Marc

[big_dan]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Looks like you've got all the bases covered.

Marc

I'm hoping so. Just ironing out the last few radiator details before FINAL assembly!

Dan

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by big_dan

I'm hoping so. Just ironing out the last few radiator details before FINAL assembly!

Dan

Yeah, get as much sorted out BEFORE as you can...ha ha.
I have just about 7k miles on mine and I feel like I just now have it all sorted out (hope I didn't just jinx myself).

Marc

[big_dan]

More progress. After mocking up the cab, I didn't like how the coil packs were hidden by the tunnel. So, I put a plan together to still mount on the valve covers, but move the coils forward for access. Made a template, transferred to 1/4" aluminum, and there we go. Plates bolt to the valve covers, valve covers can be installed/ removed with the plates bolted to them, and coils are installed last. Coil bracket is an ICT Billet piece. Came out pretty good; well, I'm happy, so moving along.

More later -

Dan

[8man]

Well thought out.

[big_dan]

Originally Posted by 8man

Well thought out.

I'm trying - it's hard to start getting close to the end and wanting to cut corners here and there.

And - a little eye candy. Decided to keep it simple, no dash rework yet, and I love the layout. Super impressed with the manual with the gages, sensors included, looks to be top- notch.

More later -

Dan

[big_dan]

And . . . . . We're getting close. Spent the last month tinkering and fine-tuning little things here and there. Fuel pump, vacuum line to the fuel regulator, building hoses, routing hoses, etc. Insulated the cab, drilled the firewall penetrations I'm sure of, gas pedal, clutch hard stop, just a ton of little last minute deals before I set the cab on for good. Getting really close - so hopefully it makes noise soon!

More later -

Dan

[57FleetsideC4]

Looking like a very nice project. Making great progress. Steve

[youngrodder]

It looks very close from here....Good luck making noise (the good variety).

Marc

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by big_dan

And . . . . . We're getting close. Spent the last month tinkering and fine-tuning little things here and there. Fuel pump, vacuum line to the fuel regulator, building hoses, routing hoses, etc. Insulated the cab, drilled the firewall penetrations I'm sure of, gas pedal, clutch hard stop, just a ton of little last minute deals before I set the cab on for good. Getting really close - so hopefully it makes noise soon!

More later -

Dan

This looks so good! You must be really happy with this progress... heck I'd be sad to cover up that awesome chassis.

[big_dan]

Thanks all for the comments. After "walking in" to our last local cruise-in, I'm super-motivated to get this rig running. Heck - I've not even went fishing trying to finish up! I'd love to be on the road in a month or so, but we'll just have to see if we can make it. Finishing up my gas fill currently, and after that it's just wiring, fluids and interior, so we might make it. Thanks for looking-

Dsn

[big_dan]

Progress continues-

Since I'm not 100% on how I want to handle the bed floor, I fabbed up a bracket to add the tank fill inside the bed for now. It sits about 1" below the tank rollover vent line. Grounded the tank to the frame, and the fuel system is checked off the list [I leak tested all the hoses to shop pressure (150#) during assembly]. Installed the fuse block and started wiring . . . So it begins!

On a side note, I don't generally weigh in on vendors. But, planning my wiring i had questions for Dakota Digital and Painless. Both vendors, when I called, had a REAL PERSON answer the phone! Outstanding.

More later - thanks for looking -

Dan

[youngrodder]

Looking good. I think the wiring process takes 3x longer than you think it should. It takes a lot of time to lay out a good plan to hide as much as possible.

Marc

[big_dan]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Looking good. I think the wiring process takes 3x longer than you think it should. It takes a lot of time to lay out a good plan to hide as much as possible.

Marc

Yes it does. I've completed a few, so knowing what you're getting into helps of course. Plus study, study, study and take notes. Even with good products like Painless and Edelbrock, I'll still need to move a few circuits ahead of time. Plus, the Dakota gages need a constant 12v AND a switched 12v, etc, etc. No big deal if you plan ahead, but it sucks if you have to move a circuit after you're finished! My plan is to complete the "body" wiring first, test everything, then wire the injection and fan. Shouldn't be too bad, just time consuming. Thanks for looking!

Dan

[big_dan]

Progressing along. The nice part about being at this point is you there's so many items to wrap up, you can bounce around a bit. It's time to bleed the clutch and brakes, so figured I'd put at least the drivers seat in for kiddo to help, so might as well put carpet down; one thing always leads to another. Plug wires are built, so fairly soon it'll be only wiring left. More later-

Dan

[big_dan]

Another update.

Moving along with wiring in general; mainly routing and splitting out circuits currently. A few circuits have to get re-routed in the Painless harness (tach input, NSS, ignition to the ECU) and a few have to get added (cut-outs, fan relay to the ECU) but nothing too complicated.

Biggest issue thus far is I'll have 2 temp sensors; one for the Dakota gages and the Pro-flo sensor. Edelbrock was nice enough to only supply a 3/8 NPT sensor, so the only option I see at this point is to drill/tap the water pump. Of course I have a million drills, but no 37/64 in the shop, so that'll be a day or two.

Still haven't decided on what to do about a bed floor, but that's on the back burner until it's on the road. With that in mind, decided to add a "toolbox" and hide my battery there, plus it'll allow me to carry 2 sets of tools (SAE and metric!!). Had an old ammo box that I thought would work, so this'll be the deal till winter at least.

Final item I'm tinkering with is painting white letters on the MT's. Not sure of the goal, but I love the look. If it doesn't pan out, a little alcohol and the white is gone . . . . But I doubt it.

Getting closer! Thanks for looking -

Dan

[6DoF]

each head has a temp sensor location in it ... can't just get an up-size fitting and let the sensor stand off the head a little more?

wouldn't have expected it, but the white lettering is solid!

[big_dan]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

each head has a temp sensor location in it ... can't just get an up-size fitting and let the sensor stand off the head a little more?

wouldn't have expected it, but the white lettering is solid!

What I'd like to do is use the Dakota style (1/8 NPT with a metric bushing) with the Edelbrock harness, then i could use the other location. I thought about a stand off but wanted the sensor in the flow path.

And yes, I'm surprised at the white letters myself!

Dan

[6DoF]

with the turbulence of water flow in the head and conductivity of water ... any difference caused by the stand-off should be negligible to not measurable. specially for the engine controller, it should really only be looking at weather it's a cold start or basically up to temp.