LFD's low buck truck build!

[Rokcrln]

Thanks guys! I did not get a chance to do much tonight but I still did get some done The fill tube is done but I still have a cover to make for the wheel well to keep the dirt from flying in. I will have a vent tube hooked up to keep the tank from burping and shutting off the gas pump.
I will add a bolt in the fill tube bracket just under the wheel well to keep it all in place.

As far as more complete pics, the truck has not moved since the frame was cut so any more pics would just be coppies of what is already on here.

Kevin
LFD inc.

[RACINJASON22]

Kevin I can't say it enough you do awesome work!

Love the fuel door but, how many time are you going to pull into the wrong side of the gas pump untill you get it in your head that it's on the other side

RJ22

[GREASEMONKEY72]

Originally Posted by RACINJASON22

Kevin I can't say it enough you do awesome work!

Love the fuel door but, how many time are you going to pull into the wrong side of the gas pump untill you get it in your head that it's on the other side

RJ22

the fill tube isnt gona be in danger by a load is it?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by RACINJASON22

Kevin I can't say it enough you do awesome work!

Love the fuel door but, how many time are you going to pull into the wrong side of the gas pump untill you get it in your head that it's on the other side

RJ22

I just hope it is not that one time I am out of gas as I coast up to the pump!

Originally Posted by GREASEMONKEY72

the fill tube isnt gona be in danger by a load is it?

No plus it is getting a cover that will help with any load shift if it were to happen.
I agree it is not the best set up but for a total of $9 and some time I can not copmplain too much. Alot of the things I am doing on this one will get refined on the next one

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[seaquester5]

Kevin I can't add any compliments everyone else has not already said for both this project and lemon drop as well.I don't know where you get the time or energy for not only the projects but taking care of a home and family too not to mention all the tutorial comments and photo's you post to aid everyone else is just absolutely amazing............As a footnote, I saw some guys asking what the metal cost to build the cab/bed lift and the tilt cab support. I bought both sets of plans a few weeks ago, and just picked up all the metal today. I had the shop cut all the metal to size with the proper angles with a power hack saw( they charged about $60 to do it)for both projects to save me the aggravation and mess of the chop saw. All the metal, grade 8 hardware and cutting came to $475 which is money well spent.All I have left to buy are the wheels.So, I will be busy welding the next few days and can then put some of your other ideas to work on my 72........thanks for your expert guidance....you are the best!

[Rokcrln]

Hey now don't forget about my full time 40hr a week job that is 80 miles from home as well Thank you very much! I enjoy what I do and if things go right (if they are ment to be) I will be doing this full time in the near future. Then I can really get some of my other ideas out their for all to see.

On your tip and flip do your self a favor and use casters that will put the bottom of the frame at least above your engine hoist. This way you can roll your engine hoist right under the tip and flip dolly and set the cab down. I did not do this on mine (I had not designed the lift yet) and I need to put the extention legs on the dolly to set the cab down or lift it off. It still is not a big deal but one more step that takes up a few extra minute of our sp[are time. Good luck on the build of the toys, you will find it is money well spent like I have.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[seaquester5]

Thanx for the tip on the wheels for the tip & flip I will keep that in mind when I shop for them in the next few days

[trkklr77]

hey bud, its been a while since i checked in on your build, looking great, i like the filler cover.

i see you got the steel wheels you wanted, still want to sell the mag style aluminums?

[seaquester5]

Kevin, Just wondering, on the frame and bed shortening did you use mig or tig or both for welding the bed and frame? Bill

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by trkklr77

hey bud, its been a while since i checked in on your build, looking great, i like the filler cover.

i see you got the steel wheels you wanted, still want to sell the mag style aluminums?

YEP!

Originally Posted by seaquester5

Kevin, Just wondering, on the frame and bed shortening did you use mig or tig or both for welding the bed and frame? Bill

I used a 220V mig with .035 wire on a 25/75 gas mix

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[trkklr77]

ill try to get up to the tuesday night car show in winters, i still have your phone # so ill give you a call sometime in the day.

[68GMC454]

finally cought up on this build..looks sweet..your doing great work..and are an inspiration to the rest of us..thank you for taking the time to show the rest of us what to do..
billy

[Rokcrln]

Well rounding the corner and heading home (for now)!
I have had a few hours this week to work on the truck so I can get it out of the shop for the next customer build comming in this week end.

I was finishing up the brake system (new calipers, wheel cylinders, pads, shoes, all rubber lines and hard lines on the rear diff) by putting on the new master cylinder when I noticed the kinked front brake line. I had to cut that section out and re-flair the old end, then make a new jumper piece using the old tube nut for the top end. I sure am glad I bought a nice hand held hydro tube flairing kit last year for my rock crawler it has so paid for it self I also had to replace the rear diff lines due to the axel flip.

I then painted the rear frame just so it would look better and be cleaner to work on in the future. I painted the new gas tank as well for a little bling I just used god old Rust Tuff rattle can paint, I found it has the best coverage and a great spray tip for rebuild in a can.

Now I am working on the air lines for the rear bags. I am going with 1/4" hard lines because I don't know yet what I am going to do for the exhaust so I did not safe running plastic line plus I think hard line is a better set up for hard mounted (non moving parts) air systems. I still need to mount the compressor and tank and find a valve for opperation. For now I may just mount two ball valves for fill and dump so I can get it up and running.

I hope to have it together this week end so I can get the new customer build (project TRAZER) in the shop and then all work will stop for a litle bit. My wife is going to be a bit early with our first child (Taylor Andrew) and she has asked (ya right, told me) for A/C to be installed before the kid gets here. That meen I have to get the new electric service in place and wired so we can power the new A/C unit. Also I have his room to get done and that is the easy part just need to paint the new doors, drawer faces, base board, door and window trim and put in carpet. So things will be on hold for a day or two

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Then paint and air lines.

[IvelDesigns]

I'm really diggin' the lines you made.

[RMATTZZ4]

Hey Rok, between your job your own projects customers projects wife projects and new kid projects do you ever really get to drive the rock crawler you have....

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by RMATTZZ4

Hey Rok, between your job your own projects customers projects wife projects and new kid projects do you ever really get to drive the rock crawler you have....

You tell me

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[WinDancer]

Kevin, tell me more about your line bending tool- is that it standing next to your brake booster?
Your skills are amazing with all this stuff

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by WinDancer

Kevin, tell me more about your line bending tool- is that it standing next to your brake booster?
Your skills are amazing with all this stuff

Thank you! The bender is a Blue Point #TBS300 and was about $65 from Matco or Snap-on. The flair set was about $2-300 or so all money very well spent if you plan on doing one nice show car or alot of customer work.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

I have the mounts done for the tank and comp. I used weld in nuts to make things easier for mounting. I then ran the hard lines, manual fill valve and the dump valve. I will be able to reach it all right thru the drivers side wheel well. Not a great set up if you are running full air suspention but since this is only for when I am towing or hauling a heave load it will work just fine. Well off to the parts store for some final pieces.

Kevin
LFD inc.

[Rokcrln]

Valve set up $10 worth

[68GMC454]

looks great..
billy

[Rokcrln]

Finaly the brakes are bled and finished, I pulled the in cab gas tank and started changing out the body mounts. The front cab mounts are rusted stuck fo they will be fun and the rad suports are also rusted I tested teh stock gas sending unit wire to the new tanks sender and it showed just over half a tank and I put between 12 and 15 gal into it so I think it should be just fine. Now I need to get the body mounts changed and the bed bolted back on and it is off to the alignment shop then to the muffler shop next.
Almost back on the road

I amso mounted the power supply for the air system with left over parts I poulled off one of my old crawlers. It is a 30amp breaker and a constant duty sylinoid. I just have a jumper wire that I clip on to the batery for power as needed. Not the ideal set up for on and off but it sure was cheap

I have spent about $150 in misc brake parts and body mounts and about 10 hours for brakes, air system and tank removal.

Kevin
LFD inc.
$3397.26
107.5hrs

[krue]

Love the tools, wish I could justify buying some for myself.

[faribran]

Kevin,
will the Blue Point tubing bender bend tubing (as you pictured with quarter) that tight?