S10 Swap how to

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by 47owner

I want to keep the entire drive train of the S10.

check my signature, I have done it twice with a 65 and a 47 and am doing it again with a 49.

[reaper71]

Cool build!!

Mark...

[BigFrz]

Can you plz go over the radiator section with me. I am like confused why did u buy another core support. I bought the 19 x22 radiator and it seem not to fit by milli meters lol. Thanks for your help.
Big Frz

[BigFrz]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Core support is next. First pics are a modified Chevy support, last several are GMC support. I use 3/16" plate, bent at a 90deg. angle. I cut the support at the line above the two horizontal 5/16" bolt holes. I bend an 18ga. sheet into a 4" channel the width of the core support, weld it to the bottom, and install the 68-72 cushions.

Then I mock up the fenders, core support, and hood. using a floor jack I adjust the core support height until the hood aligns proplerly with the fenders.

Then I weld my brackets to the core support, and drill 5/16" holes through the top of the frame. using grade 8 bolts, washers, and lock-nuts, secure the core support to the frame.

Can you plz go over the radiator section with me. I am like confused why did u buy another core support. I bought the 19 x22 radiator and it seem not to fit by milli meters lol. Thanks for your help.
Big Frz

[Clay54]

BigFrz, I don't think Chris (skymangs) is suggesting you buy two core supports. In the post you refer, #6, he had two projects going and to get a picture sequence, he used the Chevy support as a start and the GMC support to show the complete. Now why your radiator don't fit in your support, I don't have a clue but I feel sure it has nothing to do with you needing a second support. Clay

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by BigFrz

Can you plz go over the radiator section with me. I am like confused why did u buy another core support. I bought the 19 x22 radiator and it seem not to fit by milli meters lol. Thanks for your help.
Big Frz

I used a 19x22 radiator from Summit, fit perfect. You need to do some trimming on the core support to get it in there.

I've got some pics of how I had to trim mine for a 19x22 radiator in by build, post 75:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=664837&page=3

[lower50's]

I have a question as to why everyone has trouble getting the steering lined up. My uncle has a 1988 s10 with a sb 350. The steering shaft goes through the headers no heim joint. What is the difference with the 47-54 s10 swap?
Thanks

[joedoh]

the motor moves back on the frame 4-5 inches with the old body. s10 swap mounts move the motor about 3.5-4 inches forward. that is 7.5-9 inches difference

[tlorber]

It also depends upon which headers you are using, and where exactly the steering column exits the cab. My GMC cab is slightly different from the Chevy cab, and as I recall, some people with Chevys move the column in order to center it between gauges.

[lower50's]

Thanks guys. Good to know. (and knowing is half the battle)

[Dale88]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Now we get to the meat and potatoes of how this build works. Attached you will see my frame swap cab stands, complete with measurements and pics so they can be duplicated for your build. The following schematic is for 47-50 cabs. These were center mount cabs, you will need to weld a 6"x6" 1/4" plate on the bottom of the floor on each side to re-enforce the floor for the new cab stands.

If you have a 51-54 cab, you will need to remove 1/2" from the "above frame" portion of the rear cab stands and add a 1/2" delron spacer above the stock S10 body mount (this fits between the factory floor braces)

I bend the lower legs out at a 15deg. angle to decrease stress on the side of the frame

both these use the stock S10 body mount bushings above the cab stands.

Will this mounts fit a 1987 s10 chassis using a 1957 cab and long bed, also Do you sale this mounts?
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[rtinniste]

Originally Posted by Dale88

Will this mounts fit a 1987 s10 chassis using a 1957 cab and long bed, also Do you sale this mounts?
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57 cab would need different mounts this is for the 47-54 advanced design trucks

[Dale88]

Originally Posted by rtinniste

57 cab would need different mounts this is for the 47-54 advanced design trucks

Do you know if theirs a thread for help with the 1957 trucks to s10 chassis swaps?
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[Rabid Anti-Dentite]

For the radiator, is it 19 wide or 19 tall?
Thanks for all the help

[Garyhenrich]

19" wide and make sure the bottom connection comes straight out, 90 degrees, some come out 22 degrees. Or a least choose connections based on your water pump configuration. Mine also did not come without a drain port. Cheaper is not always better.

[Rabid Anti-Dentite]

Originally Posted by Garyhenrich

19" wide and make sure the bottom connection comes straight out, 90 degrees, some come out 22 degrees. Or a least choose connections based on your water pump configuration. Mine also did not come without a drain port. Cheaper is not always better.

Thanks, where did you get yours. I am having trouble finding a 19 wide radiator.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by Rabid Anti-Dentite

Thanks, where did you get yours. I am having trouble finding a 19 wide radiator.

Actually, 19 in. tall by 22 in. wide. An no, the neck does not need to be 90°, at least it was not for mine. I found it challanging to find a 19x22 in. radiator with a straight neck in a decent price range with a AT cooler.

My radiator came from Summit, P/N SUM-381324. More on it in my build Post 75:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=664837&page=3

[Garyhenrich]

You are right, I stand corrected. 22" wide X 19" tall. I got my from speedway. I got a cheap one, would have been better to pay more, if running Automatic, get the integrated AT cooler, drain, straight outlet is better.
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[steve aleve]

Ok I have a series of questions regarding my brake setup and I am hoping someone can help. I am doing a hydroboost from an astro and I have the stock steering box from the s10. I have a 5.3 Vortec with the PS pump and I think that the PS cooler is from a 5.3 as well. I am having trouble wrapping my head around how it all has to be connected. I have searched the internet and have found many diagrams that show how to hook it all up. The main question is.... how do I know which is high pressure vs. low pressure and the direction of the flow for all of the components? It is my understanding that the low pressure is usually just regular clamped hosing and the high pressure has the fittings, but I still do not know which direction everything flows. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

[reaper71]

What is the main reason you want hydro boost?
Just speaking from experience here.(Not telling you what to do) when running hydroboost setup if the hydra boost unit goes bad you loose your (Brakes and steering!) I found this out the hard way while driving..

Now to help with your question...on the pump it will have A tube coming out usually at the bottom (low side) and a spot for a fitting to go into (pressure side)
On my daily driver (looking straight at the hydro unit) left side pressure hose goes to pump, right side pressure line goes to box and the middle (low pressure) goes to the pump (tube) Hope this helps.

Mark...

[steve aleve]

Thanks Reaper71!! That's exactly the info I needed.

[1952ssr]

I have a question concerning wheel size and back spacing. I know most people run 2 inch spacers up front and swap to a 4X4 rearend as I did on "FRED". On my new build I am really considering going with Detroit steel or Coys new c33 smoothies, if I have figured/measured right I can have 4.5 backspacing on a 9 or 10 inch wide wheel (for a deep outside lip) and not run any spacers or swap out my rearend. Thanks for your help fellers.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by 1952ssr

I have a question concerning wheel size and back spacing. I know most people run 2 inch spacers up front and swap to a 4X4 rearend as I did on "FRED". On my new build I am really considering going with Detroit steel or Coys new c33 smoothies, if I have figured/measured right I can have 4.5 backspacing on a 9 or 10 inch wide wheel (for a deep outside lip) and not run any spacers or swap out my rearend. Thanks for your help fellers.

I didnt run spacers on my GMC, and dont plan to on the 49. I didnt even switch to a 4x4 rear on either. backspacing is the key, like you said. I used 0 offset fronts (7" wide 4" backspace) and -12 offset rears (8" wide 4" backspace) and they looked just right.



if you call mobsteel spend some time talking to them about exactly what you want. and if you have seen an AD with mobsteels tell them, they keep excellent records of who they sold to and for what application. I ordered some for my friend and mentioned the truck with mobsteels he was trying to emulate, they knew the widths and backspacing and even the front and rear axle widths of the truck. then he said the caps wouldnt fit without modfying them and sent a fedex call tag to pick up the caps, modified them, and sent them back with the wheels. I havent had a better experience with a company before that or since.

[N.T.Q]

I don't believe Chris is back yet answering questions but does any one know the Part #'s on the Fuel pump, rotary vane - Oreillys - $80 there is 3 different ones they sell thanks

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by N.T.Q

I don't believe Chris is back yet answering questions but does any one know the Part #'s on the Fuel pump, rotary vane - Oreillys - $80 there is 3 different ones they sell thanks

Which are the three pumps you're looking at? Internal, external, why not go to the manufacturer and look at the pump curve information and see which one works best for you.