Daverods project 66

[Alan's Classic]

Nice progress Dave

[ruffrida2005]

Dave what you need to do is set your truck to what your ride hight is going to be. Set your pinion angle of the trans up 2-3* Then with the rear set at ride height you will set the pinion angle down 3*. The reason you do this is because the slip yoke in the trans will push in when lowering and raising. I asked Jason what he set his to when I was doing the front of mine at ride height and he said 3* on both. just opposet of eachother. hope you understand.

[ruffrida2005]

Also when setting ride height you need to make sure that the carb is as level as can be then set your pinion anges from there.

[daverod]

So it's sounding like I have to have the engine and transmission in before I can weld my tabs on the axle? Or can I just set the axle to the stock length at ride height, set it level, then use the swing arm bars on the side to change the angle after I get the engine trans in. It seems that adjusting the nuts on the swing arms will change the pinion angle? The tabs on top are welded on to the axle tube the swing arms are welded on to the bottom so adjustin the bottom must rotate the axle? I would like to finish the rear end without having to mounting my engine or trans.

[ruffrida2005]

Dave I wrote to Jason on the other forum trying to figure out what the pinion is supposed to be set at witht he 2 peice driveshaft. I forgot that's what yall have to have with this kit. I'm only running a 1 peice with my truck so it's a lot easier to work with. When I find out I'll get back with you. but what Dennis said about cutting through the frame is really easy, you just have to go back in and put metal around where you cut. I've thought about doing the same thing. but I'll have to see.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Dave I wrote to Jason on the other forum trying to figure out what the pinion is supposed to be set at witht he 2 peice driveshaft. I forgot that's what yall have to have with this kit. I'm only running a 1 peice with my truck so it's a lot easier to work with. When I find out I'll get back with you. but what Dennis said about cutting through the frame is really easy, you just have to go back in and put metal around where you cut. I've thought about doing the same thing. but I'll have to see.

I'm going to raise my bed so I don't have to cut the frame. Cutting a hole that big in the frame would scare me. Don't you think adjusting the nuts on the swing arms will change the pinion angle? Maybe it just moves the axle back? Guess I'll just tack it and see what happens.

[daverod]

Ya baby. I was kind worried if I had my notch in the right spot or not. Got room to spare. I just looked at the pictures to get it in the right spot. Did'nt really measure anything.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by daverod

Ya baby. I was kind worried if I had my notch in the right spot or not. Got room to spare. I just looked at the pictures to get it in the right spot. Did'nt really measure anything.

Nice job Dave Make sure your diff is square with the frame. Find an alignment hole in the frame that is in the same spot on both sides. Measure to the axles from those holes to make sure your axle will be aligned, or you will be crabbing down the road.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup

man dave your kickin ass and takin names

I know now what I'm I going to do all winter?

Originally Posted by joe231

if you don't mind it loud, just dump it after the cab

Nice work BTW

Still looking for ideas. Thanks Joe

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Nice progress Dave

Thanks Allan

[ruffrida2005]

I see what your talking about now on the lower link bars, By adjusting the threade rod end will change the pinion angle. I wont push the alxe back or bring it up since the top will be in the same spot regardless, just rotated either way. As far as cutting a whole in the frame. that's not a problems as long as you box around the frame in that area and add some plate on the outside or inside of the frame rail. I've seen others do it that way.

[daverod]

[IMG]http://i697.photobucket.com/albums/vv336/Dave...

Check it. Got to love the background music and quaility camera work. Damn I watched it about 3 times and it gave me a woodie.

[joe231]

Adjusting the lower links will change your pinion angle, but it will also change your axle center-line in relation to your notches...it would be best to get your pinion close and just make some fine tuning adjustments with the adjustable links

COOL VIDEO!!

[ruffrida2005]

loooks good man I just watched it 3 times but didn't get a woodie, maybe I should watch it some more.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

loooks good man I just watched it 3 times but didn't get a woodie, maybe I should watch it some more.

Ya It might take you a few more times. You're kinda use to this stuff. I'm a virgin. Guess I was kinda premature.

[watahyahknow]

from the looks of the clip it seems to be working good , changing the pinionangle using the treaded rods should be possible but to move it down you need to lengthen to bottom one and shorten the top one , that way to axle stays where it is , the arc of travel might change a bit when there not parralel bars
i wonder if the angle is needed with the bars because its a pretty solid connection to the frame , usually they use the angle on leafsprings so it straightens when the leafs wind up under accelleration

[daverod]

I just set it by eye and tacked it for now. When I know for sure I'll weld it on for good. I'm sure I can get a few degree's just by turning the nuts on the arms. I does'nt have much of an arc. It moves pretty much up and down. I don't think the pinion angle is as critical when your using a two piece driveline. There's twice as many u joints. I can always raise or lower the carrier bearing. Have to do some more research.

[joe231]

It is even more critical with a 2 piece drive-shaft, and more complicated. You don't want any of the joints at 0 degrees of the will wear out prematurely

[Strodder]

Adjust the angle to the center joint. It should be in faze that way. Also I looked at my truck and there's lots of room to put the exhaust pipes from the block huggers along the inside of the frame to where the frame kicks up. Then cross over from there. Remember I have a 73 rear part of the frame, but I looked at the back half of my old frame and it looks like you can do the same thing.

[daverod]

Lots of room. So I guess you can go under. Now all I need are some bezels for cheap. I found some mustang ones. I could'nt.

[watahyahknow]

Originally Posted by daverod

Lots of room. So I guess you can go under. Now all I need are some bezels for cheap. I found some mustang ones. I could'nt.

just thinking :you might be able to find suntin in a boatshop or boatwreckingyard , i can immagine they use those type of exits for water or exaust or sumtin like that

[daverod]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

just thinking :you might be able to find suntin in a boatshop or boatwreckingyard , i can immagine they use those type of exits for water or exaust or sumtin like that

I don't think we have boatwrecking yards in Idaho. I'll look on ebay though. Boat exhaust bezels. Worth a look. Got to be cheaper then vette ones. The mustang ones are looking better and better.

[ol Curt]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Adjust the angle to the center joint. It should be in faze that way. Also I looked at my truck and there's lots of room to put the exhaust pipes from the block huggers along the inside of the frame to where the frame kicks up. Then cross over from there. Remember I have a 73 rear part of the frame, but I looked at the back half of my old frame and it looks like you can do the same thing.

Can I borrow that lift?

[ruffrida2005]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-...Q5fAccessories 6 hours left only $49 now

[ruffrida2005]

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=exh...&_ipg=&_sop=12 I saw a vett one $49 buy it now price.

[joe231]

Hard to tell by the pics, but it looks like the rear diff is shifted to the passenger side