1972 Medium Blue Highlander Blazer Resto

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Geeezus how'd I miss this thread? Yeah Pete, it's not unusual I miss the obvious, source to your Blazer in your sig. all along. Unbelievable what you did with that Blazer, cream of the crop.

[DeadheadNM]

Tony thank you!

[DeadheadNM]

Thank you! The motor works well for what I use it for. I haven’t had many days behind the wheel yet since the top end was redone. The idle in the Blazer could be a tad smoother. In my opinion, the cam the builder selected is better suited for more of a street car application than my style of driving. If I were to select a cam I’d go with MC22135 rather than MC22238, which is what I have: https://enginepro.com/downloads/newd..._CamShafts.pdf

[LT7A]

Interesting on the cam specs. It looks like you may be have what they would call a stage two or three cam. A lot of people like the lopey idle and I get that, but I wouldn't want to sacrifice torque for the sound. A smooth idle is fine by me. What was interesting on that sheet was how they wanted their stage one cams to be for lower compression engines. If I was doing a rebuild I would probably shoot for about 10 to 1. My trucks tend to do all their driving in off-idle to 2000 rpm. Probably 2,500 for merging on the freeway, but 3,000 is winding it out for me, haha. Thanks for the info, I will be saving that for when it comes time to rebuild and go with a roller cam.

[68ls1]

Great build, will certainly help me on mine. Finally due to arrive in Oz next week.

Couple of questions, did you install the steering stabilizer and do you have the build/spec sheet for the Alcan springs?

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by 68ls1

Great build, will certainly help me on mine. Finally due to arrive in Oz next week.

Couple of questions, did you install the steering stabilizer and do you have the build/spec sheet for the Alcan springs?

Thank you. It’s running great now. I need to pull the top yet for summer driving.

Congrats! Hope that it arrives swiftly and safely. Please share photos when possible.

Yes, I did reinstall the steering stabilizer, which is a Delco Pleasurizer unit, using original hardware. The front axles for the 72 model year have a bracket affixed to the LH side to accommodate the outboard end of the stabilizer and the inboard end affixes by way of a clamp on the tie rod.

[tim71]

First off....your Blazer is stunning. I am curious if you would share your knowledge about the Highlander seats. I've read through your build a few times but missed where you sourced your seat covers. Is there a vender that sells Highlander seat covers, or do they have to be custom made? Where can the Highlander plaid fabric be purchased? Is the parchment vinyl readily available?

My 72 Blazer seats are covered in nonoriginal black vinyl, so I'm pretty much starting from scratch. PO even covered the back of the bucket seat with the black vinyl. I haven't tore the seats apart yet, but I can peek in and see the original bucket seat backs are there. Unfortunately, a PO painted everything black that was originally parchment (visors, door panels, bucket seat backs).

My Blazer was built in St Louis and it has the white step up plate.

Thanks, Tim

[DeadheadNM]

Hi Tim - I’m glad you got that Blazer. Good buy.

Thanks for the good words. Dealing with the upholstery was a lengthy nightmare.

My covers were made to order by Truck World (Larry Nease) who essentially wholesales to dealers he works with. There’s a member here that’s successful at keeping Larry focused. Send me a PM and I’ll share the details. The member that I used at the time is no longer in the business.

There is a vendor in Texas that was advertising plaid front bucket covers. I’m uncertain where these were/are made but I’ve yet to see examples that have the pattern correctly aligned. There’s a consistent pattern of alignment with the front bucket covers but that’s not the case for the rear from what I’ve observed. It takes more yards of fabric to achieve the correct alignment between the front covers.

SMS fabric offers repro plaid fabric and the vinyl can be had. The rub is the rear seat cover, which has embossed scrolling. Larry is able to get correctly embossed vinyl to assemble the rear seat cover. Also, make sure that the rear seat receives the correct pattern on the vinyl across the back of the seat (it’s ribbed).

Hope this is helpful. If possible start a build thread for your Blazer, I’d like to follow.

[tim71]

Curious if you might have a photo of your steering damper installed. My 71 K1500 didn't utilize a steering damper so I can't reference it. I took a lot of photos when I tore down the Blazer but somehow missed a good shot of the damper. I knew that I was going to replace damper, so I discarded the damper cylinder that was on the Blazer.

Even a photo of uninstalled damper would help. Going thru your build, I did find a photo referencing a measurement for the damper, but not a full view of damper.

Thanks, Tim

[DeadheadNM]

Hi Tim - lmk if this helps. I’ve got loose examples too.

[tim71]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Hi Tim - lmk if this helps. I’ve got loose examples too.

Yes, that photo was helpful. Thanks, much appreciated. Tim

[jmking9]

If you don't mind me asking. Where did you source the 15x8 steel wheels from? Also, do you happen to remember the back spacing? I'm not having any luck finding oem wheels for my 72, so I've been looking at the ones from Cooper Restorations. They have a 4.25" bs, and I have read that 3.75" is the max to clear the tie rods. Any input would be much appreciated. Thank you!

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by jmking9

If you don't mind me asking. Where did you source the 15x8 steel wheels from? Also, do you happen to remember the back spacing? I'm not having any luck finding oem wheels for my 72, so I've been looking at the ones from Cooper Restorations. They have a 4.25" bs, and I have read that 3.75" is the max to clear the tie rods. Any input would be much appreciated. Thank you!

You bet. I sourced the wheels here on the forum if I recall. The backspace on these wheels is often indicated as 4” but I’ve never measured them myself. Check with Cooper, I bet there’s a set that will work: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=751354

[tim71]

Pete, would it be possible for you to post a few photos of your hatch hinges with the hatch in the upright position? Kind of the view in post #330, but aimed up higher to include the hinges and associated gaskets and cover. Thanks, Tim

[DeadheadNM]

Do these work Tim?

[tim71]

Thanks for the photos. I’m trying to determine how the metal cover/gasket lays. The hinge goes through cover/gasket and then bolts to top. Only two ways it can attach, rounded surface facing either inward or outward .My guess is the rounded surface faces away from the top but mine doesn’t seem to screw down tightly. Based on attached photo, do you know if this is correct or do I need to turn the rounded cover over? I failed to get a good photo of this prior to tear down, plus there’s a good chance that it could have been installed incorrectly anyway.

[DeadheadNM]

Tim yours looks correct - flat face inward against the seal between the hatch and the escutcheon/bezel/plate deal. Glad to help.

[CanadianNascar]

WoW ! Incredible build and documentation, museum quality.
Our VINs are only 376 units apart!
I'm in this thread for future reference lol.

[DeadheadNM]

Thanks! That’s awesome. Thanks for comparing VINs. Wonder how many days separate our Blazers in terms of assembly? Can’t be many.

[CanadianNascar]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Thanks! That’s awesome. Thanks for comparing VINs. Wonder how many days separate our Blazers in terms of assembly? Can’t be many.

I worked at Lear, building seats for the GM Oshawa plant for 12yrs, until the crash of 2008. Gm Oshawa would build approx 540 units per shift. They had it down to an art form though. I'm sure 300 units back then would be possible, can't be more than 2 days apart.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by CanadianNascar

I worked at Lear, building seats for the GM Oshawa plant for 12yrs, until the crash of 2008. Gm Oshawa would build approx 540 units per shift. They had it down to an art form though. I'm sure 300 units back then would be possible, can't be more than 2 days apart.

Love it. That’s incredible. As an aside, is Oshawa still online?

[LT7A]

Enjoyed going back through this. Took a buncha notes. Thanks for the time you took to post all of this. I'd love to see more out and about pictures. Happy Holidays!

[DeadheadNM]

Thanks for the good words! I'll do better at posting some out-and-about pics. While garaged over the winter I need to remove the HEI and replace the pickup coil, which I believe is causing problems w warm starts. Have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year all.

[72 paul]

Say Pete,what might you have used for cushion on tailgate to hatch stop top of gate.Followed your restore missed it.Way cool work..Thanks for any reply.Paul..Double sided tape?

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by 72 paul

Say Pete,what might you have used for cushion on tailgate to hatch stop top of gate.Followed your restore missed it.Way cool work..Thanks for any reply.Paul..Double sided tape?

Great question. I had to think about this. If I recall, we used a non-hardening bedding compound along the seam of the tailgate strip. I'll take a peek and if I have anything else to add will let you know. Thanks for the good words. I've been battling the HEI and replacing the pickup coil is on my short list of to do's ahead of spring.