1969 C20, CST. 396, 21,000 mile documented Survivor

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Can anyone confirm this is actually a date code?

It is a first year date code, but it remains at "69" as long as GM used that particular lens design (more like a part number). As I mentioned in a post above, the vans (through much of the 80s) used the same lenses that still had "69" on them.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

It is a first year date code, but it remains at "69" as long as GM used that particular lens design (more like a part number). As I mentioned in a post above, the vans (through much of the 80s) used the same lenses that still had "69" on them.

Thanks Jim. Not a code for purposes of determining date of lens manufacture then.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by Dmoore

It sure is, just like all other makes throughout.

This lens could have made in 1972, 1969, or 1980 and would still carry that "-69"

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Thanks Jim. Not a code for purposes of determining date of lens manufacture then.

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

This lens could have made in 1972, 1969, or 1980 and would still carry that "-69"

Correct. Well said.

[Dmoore]

My point was that it was first available in 69 and I would think from the very beginning of production. And I am guessing it has the same "foot print" as the non lit "reflector" lens?

[factorystock]

A common issue with '69-'72's is the steering wheels, they were hard plastic and very brittle, they cracked very easily. Is your steering wheel in good shape?

[Dmoore]

Jim I'd like to report to you the wheel is perfect but not quite. There are two verticle cracks where the spoke intersects with the wheel. Right side being a bit wider than the left side.

[Dmoore]

Taken through the back glass

[Dmoore]

Not to change the subject but I ordered and received a few items from the truck and car shop. A replacement telescoping antenna , correct radiator cap, rear view mirror and one piece steel fuel line. Everything fit fine except the fuel line. It is correct at the carb end but at the fuel pump fitting it is clocked wrong.

[Dmoore]

Current abomination.

[too much stuff]

I know you are looking for originality and thought i would mention the horn cap is 73 and up into the 80s for vans. Original looks the same but blue.

[Dmoore]

See, that's why I'm here. You know when I snapped those pics that yella center cap stood out to me. Knowing the bowtie theme in 69 was blue. Thank you. Now is the correct piece available?

[Dmoore]

Thanks to an astute member here I discovered the wrong radio installed as you guys may remember. It was an AM/FM out of a 71/72 van. Scott had a pristine AM and I had him ship it to Sarasota to Tayman Electric for FM & Bluetooth conversion as the owner wished. I received it last week and have it installed. Just waiting for the underseat 3 way speakers.

[Dmoore]

Originally Posted by too much stuff

I know you are looking for originality and thought i would mention the horn cap is 73 and up into the 80s for vans. Original looks the same but blue.

Like I mentioned in a previous thread. I believe these items were taken off of this truck by somebody who wanted them for their own truck to make it more correct. It was sold at auction not long ago who knows who was left alone and how long with this vehicle. An item like a horn button on this truck should still be there given the mileage and condition of this vehicle, what other reason would there be for it to be missing.

[factorystock]

Originally Posted by Dmoore

An item like a horn button on this truck should still be there given the mileage and condition of this vehicle, what other reason would there be for it to be missing.

Didn't mean to open a can of worms, but like the extended run on the side marker lights, the same steering wheel and horn cap (gold bowtie '73-'77) was used up to '77 on vans. Possibly, the wheel was replaced at some time due to severe cracking and the blue bowtie horn button was tossed at the same time. Again, just a guess.

[Dmoore]

No worms, ha, you are more than likely correct. I guess they didn't have to be in the sun to crack. My 64 Sport Fury has an NOS wheel and it has 2 very small cracks you wouldn't see unless I pointed it out.

So in the process of installing the correct AM radio the passenger side defrost register cracked. Talk about brittle. I was extremely careful. Didn't want to try and pull the hose off so I pulled it up and out of the hole together. Hoping The Truck & Car Shop sells it.

[jocko]

you are in luck, black ones are reproduced.

[Dmoore]

Well that's a welcome thought! Thank you. So tonight I started the truck and backed it outside my shop to move some stuff around. Pulled it back in, shut it off. After a short while I started smelling vaporized gas. Popped the hood and gas is dripping from the large fuel inlet nut where it screws into the carb body. Went to tighten it with a 1" wrench and it won't. Some gorilla apparently over tightened it at some point. Is there a repair for this without replacing the entire carb? I have seen it several times with these Q-Jets. Always something!

[jocko]

a couple of thread repair options
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...4aAgloEALw_wcB

https://www.ebay.com/itm/112299636667

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEXp74DPfHo

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Dmoore

Well that's a welcome thought! Thank you. So tonight I started the truck and backed it outside my shop to move some stuff around. Pulled it back in, shut it off. After a short while I started smelling vaporized gas. Popped the hood and gas is dripping from the large fuel inlet nut where it screws into the carb body. Went to tighten it with a 1" wrench and it won't. Some gorilla apparently over tightened it at some point. Is there a repair for this without replacing the entire carb? I have seen it several times with these Q-Jets. Always something!

Looks like someone ham-handed it, after all. Or it could be that the pot metal corroded just enough. I've not had much luck with the oversize fittings being leak-free, and have usually used J-B Weld to seal that connection. That's going to go against that new solid line you just bought.

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by Dmoore

Well that's a welcome thought! Thank you. So tonight I started the truck and backed it outside my shop to move some stuff around. Pulled it back in, shut it off. After a short while I started smelling vaporized gas. Popped the hood and gas is dripping from the large fuel inlet nut where it screws into the carb body. Went to tighten it with a 1" wrench and it won't. Some gorilla apparently over tightened it at some point. Is there a repair for this without replacing the entire carb? I have seen it several times with these Q-Jets. Always something!

The older Q-Jets are very fragile. That nut strips easily. There are some DIY ways to repair. Cliff quit working carbs, He did do inlet threadrepairs, Not sure about now. Call him and ask. 1-740-397-2921

[Dmoore]

Originally Posted by jocko

a couple of thread repair options
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...4aAgloEALw_wcB

https://www.ebay.com/itm/112299636667

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEXp74DPfHo

I like the Ebay item, it might just work. Thank you for posting Joko!

[Dmoore]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

The older Q-Jets are very fragile. That nut strips easily. There are some DIY ways to repair. Cliff quit working carbs, He did do inlet threadrepairs, Not sure about now. Call him and ask. 1-740-397-2921

Yes they do! Thanks!

[Dmoore]

I didn't want to get into it tonight with the engine hot and all so I will remove it tomorrow and inspect those threads.

[Dmoore]

a couple of thread repair options
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...4aAgloEALw_wcB

https://www.ebay.com/itm/112299636667

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEXp74DPfH

So which one have you guys used and recommend?