49 3600, s10 swap, project boogie

[joedoh]

here is the test panel showing the color difference. the rustoleum is on the left, krylon on the right.


sanded off the rustoleum ivory and painted krylon ivory today. I worked at a business that sold steam mops and had an overstock of microfiber mop pads, I seriously have a couple HUNDRED of these around. they work nice as tack rags




I have a better glovebox door, ignore the overspray. it wouldnt come off, the screws are rusty and so is the hinge, so I worked around it. I plan to leave the speaker grille rusty because its a super slippery slope. right now its just a painted dash (need a wet sand, only "signed my name" once) but as soon as you start cleaning stuff up it can really start looking amateurish to paint silvers and redo the blacks... then the knobs look out of place. I am looking for cleaned up, not restored. the next guy can fix it.

in that vein I took apart the gauges. they were rusty, which is ok because I need to relabel them anyway, different min/max on a few and backwards operation on a few others. the 4 gauge label is ok, and I might even be able to just use a metallic sharpie to draw on the new values, but the chrome rings were just terrible. first picture is a reminder from earlier.






I disassembled and sanded with 2000 grit and then steel wool. much better and fits the look I am after, will look great with the rusty speaker and dulled stainless.




I need to pick up the ribbon cables for the gauges, and I think I will put in molex plugs this time so disconnecting it isnt such a chore. I have to fix grandmas mower tomorrow but I am hard at it this week, glass install is next!

[lower50's]

Dash looks good!! Sucks about the head light that she who is unnamed broke It's hard to believe that a gauge face inside the cab will rust like that.

[99 to Life]

amazing what some rattle can can do. Rust never sleeps that is for sure. Sadly alot of these trucks, leak from the windshields, all down the dash and will rust everything and even ruin the dash in certain areas.

[joedoh]

yeah the guy who shot holes in this truck needs shot himself. one bullet just knocked the windshield gasket out at the top, that was the cause of all the cab rust right there.

I tried a metallic silver on the speaker and ashtray, passable.


I tried offsetting the ac condenser to the passenger side but the pipe kept the hood from shutting


so I trimmed the drivers side a little more and had great results


I need to whip up a mount, the condenser sandwiches (like original) ok but the plastic piece would look out of place.


and the reason I am slower than normal, my daughter graduated high school with honors, almost a full scholarship, works 30 hrs a week, and hits dingers on her softball team. mom and I talked it over and replaced her 15 year old 190k focus svt with a low mile mini cooper. 6spd of course, she is proud that she is one of only a few kids in her entire school that can drive a stick. here I am flushing the coolant and polishing the headlights and treating the leather with leatherique (amazing stuff)


I did get the passenger door glass/seals in, well halfway. having trouble getting the glass to seat in the metal frame. replacing the rubber wiper in the door was fun on a bun too (it wasnt fun)

[lower50's]

Silver paint and rads look good. I agree don't use the plastic. Congrats to your daughter. Knowing how to drive standard is dying, soon it will be a better theft deterrent than locking your doors and it's so fun.

[MalibuSSwagon]

Congrats to your daughter, she deserves it.

[Palf70Step]

[rusty76]

Congrats

[BlueJeep]

More info on the door wiper seals please! I couldn't figure out mine and needed to get going so I left them out, but need to come back to them because on just the right bump the glass rattles around in the door and pinches my arm good.

The replacements I got are shaped like a "T", and the channel doesn't look like it will accomodate that shape, but it's been 6 years since I pulled the originals out....

[joedoh]

hello kittay!

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

More info on the door wiper seals please! I couldn't figure out mine and needed to get going so I left them out, but need to come back to them because on just the right bump the glass rattles around in the door and pinches my arm good.

The replacements I got are shaped like a "T", and the channel doesn't look like it will accomodate that shape, but it's been 6 years since I pulled the originals out....

mine werent shaped like a T, they looked like a wiper blade and had a thicker side.



my originals were still in place, I had to cut them out with a razor so I knew putting them back would be fun. but cutting them out I could see the thicker side would be on the bottom. I put the bottom in the groove and used a large flat blade screwdriver to push the top into place. I used a large one because I didnt want the blade to poke through the new rubber, which only happened once. :/



once they are in the right position they stand at a 90 degree angle to the window glass and dont have any ripples. you have to do every single mm with the screwdriver. I bet a tool like what installs the locking plastic on the back window would work but I dont have one.

[lower50's]

I used the screw driver method as well, I also used soapy water mix helped.

[BlueJeep]

Where are you guys getting those wiper seals? I'd have to check my receipts to see where mine came from, but they definitely don't look like that....

[joedoh]

I got mine from LMC as a kit. did the drivers door window and felts today but photobucket is down so no pictures. so use your imagination as I tell the story:

Last week I did the passenger door glass and felts. I felt pretty confident because I ordered the clutch screw bit set and was able to get all the screws out of the channel without drilling. the glass was broken pretty badly so I soaked all the screws in penetrant spray and worked about an hour before giving up, the lower channel screws to the glass surround with these funny set screws and they would not come loose. luckily I had the 47 gmc glass handy (I replaced it with a good used set) and even though the glass was cracked it came apart like a new assembly, I really miss that truck. even the broken passenger glass slipped out of the existing rubber channels, easy peasy. The drivers side I did today, same deal, a little more persuasion was needed with the rubber channel because this glass was broken in half (still together in the frame) and there was contamination. wait.

on the gmc, the passenger window was the badly broken one. oops. the flat glass and my hubris means I had put the drivers lower channel on the passenger side and now vice versa. this means the mounting screws for the channel to the regulator did not line up on either side. pulling it apart was not attractive, it took a fair amount of hammering (yes, the oem service manual says its not only necessary, its recommended) to get the lower channel in the right spot and I wasnt excited to take it back apart. the glass is flat (in fact if you get glass from LMC they only sell one side, judging by the tempered etch), and the surround does not have an inside or outside. I looked at it all pretty carefully and the set screws that mount the lower channel to the regulator arent under any serious stress, so I drilled 4 new holes and installed 4 new screws. I figure by the time someone needs to replace anything (remember, new felts, wipers, fuzzy channels, glass, etc) it will be a very old fact to find haha. also, getting the glass into the door with new felts, wow. almost had to use the hammer again.

the inner glass felts dont come with staples and I dont have a metal piercing stapler anyway, is everyone just gluing this one in?

[BlueJeep]

Thanks for the info, I bought my window kits from Classic Industries I believe.

When I researched how to attach the inner felts, pop rivets were the preferred solution. I used 1/8" aluminum rivets and they buried themselves in the felt nicely and hold them secure.

[lower50's]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

Thanks for the info, I bought my window kits from Classic Industries I believe.

When I researched how to attach the inner felts, pop rivets were the preferred solution. I used 1/8" aluminum rivets and they buried themselves in the felt nicely and hold them secure.

Oh nice now I can put my inner felt in some time.

[99 to Life]

I got my window track from classic parts. I glued mine in. all and all pretty decent but def tight in some spots. On the one piece windows. Be sure to get the track all the way down the door (by the hinge side I'm talking about) If you stop your track short (like I did) the window will eventually jam (like mine did) had to fix that. other than that, I hated dealing with window trim, door trim, seals etc. But its essential to a build and often overlooked.

[joedoh]

in order to have a hit list on the windshield, you need to have a windshield. If you havent done this, start by threading some 1/8 nylon paracord in the channel that will go to the pinch molding. then install the two glass halves to the gasket. it actually takes more grunting and sweating and swearing to get the rubber on the glass than it does to get the windshield seated. I used some silicone spray to lube the channel and thankfully didnt need to tape the gasket on, but some might. I had the common pinch in the passenger corner, which doesnt make a lot of sense but c'est la vie. Seriously took 30 minutes to get the cord and glass in the gasket and less than a minute to seat the windshield. start by shoving and pushing the gasket into the channel as close as you can get it to the pinch, then carefully, starting from the middle bottom, pull the paracord out so the gasket overlaps the pinch. every foot or so, give the windshield a smack from the outside where the gasket is already over the pinch to help seat the windshield. go all the way around to the top and redouble your smacking from the outside, you will see the whole thing physically move and seat as you go. repeat for the other half!






so now the truck has mostly new glass and I can put a worklist on the windshield now.

which brings me to my next question. I had originally thought to laminate the rear window with its bullet holes I plan to plug but not repair the bullet holes in the back of the cab, and it does add a bit of character, but maybe its kind of hokey. I do have new glass. the guy with the 47 loved the broken back window, and it didnt even have the 30/30 holes in it.

[mongocanfly]

LOVE..the bullet holes..i would def try to keep em...what would popo say bout it though? wonder if you could put on something like nascar uses for tearoffs?

[joedoh]

I have access to a laminating film that you float on with soapy water and squeegee like a vinyl sticker, but stiffer and stronger. I cant imagine the police would care about a back window, as long as I have mirrors

[mongocanfly]

I'd say go for it!!

[84blaze]

keep the bullet holes!!!

[dug224]

Good move on the 6 speed Mini for your daughter. Ten plus years ago I sent my oldest off to college in a fairly late model 5 speed Jetta. Other students frequently asked to borrow her car until she disclosed it was a standard shift. Problem solved. Enjoying the build. dug

[HUSSEY]

Good tips on the glass. I need to replace my front windshields. Saving those rear bullet holes would be cool as hell.

[DeanTX]

I need to put in my glass, so great timing to see this. Thanks for posting. BTW my dash looks like the same color as yours. Vintage Ford color Wimbledon white is what I used.

[rusty76]

Could you use something like polyurethane over the glass or just the holes and cracks themselves. I imagine they are deep enough that they wouldn't disappear with the poly. Truck is looking good.