67-72 Electric speedo

[68c10airstream]

Does the speedo read correctly all the way down to 0 once it starts to work?? If so your speedo needle may be sticking to the rest pin. Mine did this and i had to remove the orange paint i put on the needle. I cleaned it off of the area of contact (on the rest pin) and you can hardly notice the difference.

Look at post 380 on page 16 of this posting for my issue!!

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Bagd72Chevy

I reread the instructions and am wondering if my speedo is broken or if Im missing something. My speedometer doesnt start to move until 30-35 mph. But then it goes 1 for 1 with actual speed. Its like it is starting at -30mph or something. Is there a certain way to put the needle on the shaft? I just stuck it on there thinking it would sweep the stops to find 0 but it doesnt move when you power it up.

The needle needs to be put on at 0 mph, with the ignition turned on, this way is the only way to know exactly where the stepper motor is. If it is just randomly put on, the needle will go to where the stepper motor thinks 0 should be. If the needle isn't moving until you get to 35mph, then starts moving, but is 35mph below your actual speed for the rest of the sweep the needle needs to be put on further up.

If the needle isn't moving at all when you take off, but then when you get to 35mph it jumps to that speed, then like 68c10airstream said, it could be the freshly painted needle sticking to the stop pin. I too have had this problem, you will need to scrape the paint off in that area.

[Bagd72Chevy]

I did not paint the needle to keep the patina but I did randomly put it on.

Will fix and report back! Thanks!

[dagall]

I am interested in one of these kits.

[Caustik]

This is the best find of the year for me, Got stuff yesterday, and started on it today.



Some info for the clusters, 94 Is the one year only for the s10 it goes to 85, However the stepper motor assembly is the exact same from 94-97 for Speedo only clusters. IIRC all that is needed to calibrate a 94 cluster for the 100mph sweep is a change of 1 resistor, I will have conformation when I get mine put together when I can piggy back it off my truck and verify with the truck speedo and scan tool.

[ls1nova71]

Caustik, are you trying to use a '94 speedometer? If so, I don't think it will work. I have tried using one of those, but could never get it to be as accurate as the '96. I don't know what resistor you're going to change on it, but don't thonk it's going to be that simple since the older speedobused a circuit board that was about half the size of the newer one. If it's an availability problem, I can probably get you one.

[Caustik]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Caustik, are you trying to use a '94 speedometer? If so, I don't think it will work. I have tried using one of those, but could never get it to be as accurate as the '96. I don't know what resistor you're going to change on it, but don't thonk it's going to be that simple since the older speedobused a circuit board that was about half the size of the newer one. If it's an availability problem, I can probably get you one.

I am just using this one for mockup and playing with it a little while waiting for my other cluster and PCM to come in. I am only basing this as a hunch from the V8 conversion in my s10, initially when setting up the stock Tachometer for the v8 I soldered to the wrong circuit and it caused my speedometer to accelerate at about 3 to 1. if it works then cool, if not at least it gave me something to do while waiting for more parts.

[ewoody625]

I have a few questions on wiring.
1. Do you have a part number for the hi beam indicator?
2. What connector did you use to wire it into the main harness?
3. I have no idea how to follow the printed circuit. So how do I wire this thing
4. Do I have to do the volt gauge swap or will the factory one work?
Thanks

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by ewoody625

I have a few questions on wiring.
1. Do you have a part number for the hi beam indicator?
2. What connector did you use to wire it into the main harness?
3. I have no idea how to follow the printed circuit. So how do I wire this thing
4. Do I have to do the volt gauge swap or will the factory one work?
Thanks

1 - I don't have a part number, but it was just a 12v LED that I picked up at Radio Shack.
2 - you can use what ever you want, but I like these. http://kwikwire.com/15-position-amp-connector-kit/
3 - To follow the printed circuit board, you just have to look at it. The gauges are bolted to the printed circuit, the 12v powers will all be hooked together, so by following it, you should see it. The grounds are usually grounded to the tin, and the sender wires are separate. Just follow the printed 'wire' from the gauge back to the original dash plug so you know what each wire does. I really cant explain it any more than that, but if you cant figure it out, you may need to find someone in your area that can either wire it for you, or at least help you out with it.
4 - You don't have to put a volt gauge in, but there really isn't any good way to get the original ammeter to work with the LS alternator, so that's why I change them. If you can live without that gauge then you don't need to do anything.

[ewoody625]

[QUOTE=ls1nova71;8152170]1 - I don't have a part number, but it was just a 12v LED that I picked up at Radio Shack.
2 - you can use what ever you want, but I like these. http://kwikwire.com/15-position-amp-connector-kit/
3 - To follow the printed circuit board, you just have to look at it. The gauges are bolted to the printed circuit, the 12v powers will all be hooked together, so by following it, you should see it. The grounds are usually grounded to the tin, and the sender wires are separate. Just follow the printed 'wire' from the gauge back to the original dash plug so you know what each wire does. I really cant explain it any more than that, but if you cant figure it out, you may need to find someone in your area that can either wire it for you, or at least help you out with it.
4 - You don't have to put a volt gauge in, but there really isn't any good way to get the original ammeter to work with the LS alternator, so that's why I change them. If you can live without that gauge then you don't need to do anything.[/QUOTE
Ok Thanks for the info I'm gonna try to work on it tomorrow I'll let you know if I have any issues

[ewoody625]

Another question... what is the difference between the square body volt gauge and the 67-72? I started shopping for a gauge and they look the same to me, as far as the back of the gauge goes. Also, I thought I saw a link to a thread on doing that swap but can't find it now, am I making that up? Thought I would find the answer to my question there. Thanks

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by ewoody625

Another question... what is the difference between the square body volt gauge and the 67-72? I started shopping for a gauge and they look the same to me, as far as the back of the gauge goes. Also, I thought I saw a link to a thread on doing that swap but can't find it now, am I making that up? Thought I would find the answer to my question there. Thanks

They are two different gauges, one is a voltmeter and one is an ammeter. They do look the same, but internally are different. If you want a simple bolt in that looks factory, this thread has what you are looking for. Post #274 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...653967&page=11

[ewoody625]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

They are two different gauges, one is a voltmeter and one is an ammeter. They do look the same, but internally are different. If you want a simple bolt in that looks factory, this thread has what you are looking for. Post #274 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...653967&page=11

If i wanted to do this swap myself what is involved? I already purchased an 87 cluster with the impression I had to do it myself. Thanks

[Bay67C10]

Are these kits still available? If so I’ll take a stencil and a back cover template. Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

[Hidesertchevy]

I'll take a set also

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Bay67C10

Are these kits still available? If so I’ll take a stencil and a back cover template. Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by Hidesertchevy

I'll take a set also

PM's sent

[Bay67C10]

Got mine already. Great stuff. Super fast shipping

[dec010974]

trickey, trickey, trickey. this not fun.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by dec010974

trickey, trickey, trickey. this not fun.

No, that's not it. It goes more like.....It's Tricky to rock a rhyme, to rock a rhyme that's right on time
It's Tricky, it's Tricky (Tricky) Tricky (Tricky)
It's Tricky to rock a rhyme, to rock a rhyme that's right on time
It's tricky, tricky (Tricky) tricky

But seriously, what is your issue?

[jjzepplin]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

No, that's not it. It goes more like.....It's Tricky to rock a rhyme, to rock a rhyme that's right on time
It's Tricky, it's Tricky (Tricky) Tricky (Tricky)
It's Tricky to rock a rhyme, to rock a rhyme that's right on time
It's tricky, tricky (Tricky) tricky

But seriously, what is your issue?

I missed this one! AAAAhahahahahahaha!
On a more serious note... I have not done my swap yet and am out a few months due to moving etc. I am very thankful you fellas are figuring this out though. I may have missed it in here but when this is done and working right - I can still have my stock tach as well?
Oh and you are very right! It's tricky! So you are right on time...

[ls1nova71]

Yes, you can still have the factory tach, you just have to trim one side of the face of it slightly to clear the speedo. It doesn't show when installed so you will never notice it. I will look and see if I can find a pic.

[diegos72]

I am having issues rubbing the numbers of the plastic face using Mothers mag cleaner. Any tips on how to rub those off?

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by diegos72

I am having issues rubbing the numbers of the plastic face using Mothers mag cleaner. Any tips on how to rub those off?

Use a more aggressive compound, then polish it out with mothers. The blue magic or whatever worked for me. Barkeeper’s Friend works magic, too

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by diegos72

I am having issues rubbing the numbers of the plastic face using Mothers mag cleaner. Any tips on how to rub those off?

I would just try rubbing harder, with a finger tip in a towel and the Mothers on it. Rub in one spot until it comes off, it eventually will.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by diegos72

I am having issues rubbing the numbers of the plastic face using Mothers mag cleaner. Any tips on how to rub those off?

Use a more aggressive compound, then polish it out with mothers. The blue magic or whatever worked for me. Barkeeper’s Friend works magic, too