Dug's 1959 Fleetside

[Iplumb]

Like the patch Dug

Mike

[dug224]

Originally Posted by Iplumb

Like the patch Dug

Mike

Mike: Thanks. Can't wait to get down to bare metal like yours to see what's REALLY in store for me!!! Once the rain quits here, will be moving parts to the blaster. dug

[Kim57]

The patch came out real nice.
Kim

[dug224]

Got the new-ish smaller back tires on that match the fronts. I am real pleased with the wheel spacing in the front and back wheel openings. Stance is a little less aggressive and will go down further once the spare, tailgate and back bumper are in place.

[Advanced Design]

Wheels are spot on. Looks really good!

[Kim57]

Maybe it's just me but the rears look a little bit forward.
Fronts look real good.
Kim

[dug224]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Wheels are spot on. Looks really good!

Originally Posted by Kim57

Maybe it's just me but the rears look a little bit forward.
Fronts look real good.
Kim

Doug/Kim: Thanks for the input. Very much appreciated. This truck build has turned into a study of my ability to compromise and an effort of weighing my desires against my abilities. I go from thinking "it couldn't look any better than it does" to "maybe I could move it back and inch or so". This applies to almost everything I've done on the truck to date. All things considered (mostly my lack of ability), I'm happy with where the back wheels landed....but, deep down, I would have loved to see them magically slide back a bit.

Mounting the power steering cooling coil and gas filler neck next. Two things, I am happy to say, that are not that interesting aesthetically.

Rain has finally stopped so the bed parts will make it to the blaster tomorrow. dug

[Kim57]

Truck looks good.
Your ability seems to be working out just fine.
Kim

[dug224]

In an attempt to remove some easy stuff from the TO DO list, I permanently installed the dangling power steering cooling coil (see first picture) under the left front fender. Was trying to install in front of the radiator but it was just too tight. In addition, I still have a A/C condenser coil and a pusher electric cooling fan to install that I don't yet own. I was able to mount the coil using two of the 10 mm bolts that hold the PCM in place on the top side of the inner fender. The long narrow Envoy/TB cooler that came with the frame was mounted between the frame rails at the very front of the car and was smashed in wreck. I picked up a unit that I believe came from a late model Ford truck. Spent about 45 minutes re-curving the coil's aluminum supply a return lines to get them where I needed them. The lines are pretty soft so they moved easily and, although they are still perfectly round, I manged to not kink or break them in the process. Spent another 30 minutes straightening the coil fins. Overall, great location until I have a blowout and tear it off the inner fender. One side of the coil gets a factory hard pipe with integral rubber hose. Instead of trying to re-bend the metal line, I bought a $3.00 barbed fitting and extended it with 3/8" hose to the current location.

[dug224]

Body parts are at the blaster. I got a really good deal on a new bumper that the chrome is coming off of so I sent it as well. Blaster said he could get the chrome off. Can't wait to see that.

Started on the Headlight buckets. Heated and scraped the undercoating off of them then ran them through the blast cabinet. They are now primed and painted. Ordered the rebuild parts off of eBay for $18.00. The previous owner had removed all but one of the adjustment screws and drilled holes in bucket so he could use nuts and screws which are not adjustable.

[dug224]

Finally got most of the parts for my gas filler assembly. On the top side, I used a Polished Stainless Boat Deck Filler Cap (Keyless Angled 1-1/2") I got off of eBay. Used a 1-3/4" hole saw to make the large hole. Had to file it a bit to get the angled portion of the filler assembly through the hole. I initially used metal screws to hold it in place. Ran up to Home Depot and bought some 10-32 SS screws and locking nuts for the final install. I'll add a small gasket between the Filler and the truck tub to keep water from slinging up into the bed. Installation looks clean and was simple to perform. Next post shows the bottom side.

[dug224]

On the bottom side, I used a Gates #24715 Fuel Hose (1-1/2" - 90 Degree) and a copper plumbing 1-1/4" x 3/4" Reducer. To utilize the factor bracket that holds up the steel filler tube on top of the frame, I will need add one more fitting to make the turn between the Gates Hose and the Reducer. I'll have to buy a 1-1/4" street elbow to do the final connect. See third photo. Forth photo is from under truck showing the 1" steel fill tube from the factory. Fifth photo is shot under the truck of the other end of the 1" tube at the tank. By the way, the factory fill system does not have a vent. Crawled under my buddy's '08 TB the other day and his had a vent. Hoping we haven't added any significant pressure drop to the system that may react badly with the gas pump pressure sensor. I'll devise a shield of some sort to lower the chances of a blowout ripping this out from under the tub.

[Kim57]

Very nice install.
Kim

[dug224]

Kim/JJ: Thanks!

Done. Purchased the 1-1/4" 45 degree street elbow and it soldered to the reducer. Perfect angle. Cut the factory ground wire off of the Envoy neck, drilled a hole in it and attached to the filler door assembly. Trimmed about 3/4" off of the vertical portion of the 90 degree filler tube in order to get the pitch of the lower horizontal portion correct. When I reassemble it after paint, rather than cutting a rubber gasket, I'll use a bit of caulk I use to waterproof my camper.

[dug224]

Things are moving quickly!! James just texted me some shots of the freshly blasted driver side bedside.

[tpimuncie]

Nice!

[Kim57]

Filler came out real nice.
Bed side looks good.
Kim

[Nut Case]

Sweating copper pipe is a good skill to have good job. I like the fuel cap and routing, picked up good information. Keep on keepin on. NutCase

[dug224]

Thanks for the comments guys.

Got a late birthday gift from one of my kids. An authentic sales poster from 1959 framed!! Note that the '59 is "handier and handsomer, has a "stronger sinewed (look that one up) cab " and has "tighter fisted power" Man, didn't know I was getting all of that. dug

[dug224]

Dennis: Per your request, see photo of how I measured firewall to center of shock tower nut/bolt. Measurement is 15-1/4". Placed the square up under the cab flange and plumbed down. Too difficult to try to translate to the center of the wheel so I took this shortcut. Went ahead and included on the thread in the event others are trying to zero in on cab location. for a '58/'59. Would assume 55-1/2 thru '57 would be the same but now sure.

By the way, finally created a condition that created front tire rub on fender. When leaving a pretty steep driveway ramp with wheels turned sharply, they rub slightly. In other words, the front and back tires on opposite corners are both high. I typically don't drive it like this so rubbing should not be a routine occurrence. Rolling the lip up may help and I may investigate this before body work and paint.

[dsraven]

ok, thanks for the pic Dugg. much appreciated. if my tires rub I will probably move the flare on the fenders outward if need be. I will also need to look at tire sizes because the stock tires will probably look huge in the opening. my tires will need to be all the same size due to AWD.

[RockinKees]

Are seatbelt a must in the States?
I see almost everbody puts them in.

I too put them in but it's not required overhere, I do it for my own "safety".
Kinda like you do it, only I have a small window, thats easier
You also use these plates for the bottom?

About the brakes, when we had this at work (Mercedes Benz trucks and Vans) we had to bleed via the computer to get the antilock free of air. The computer opened one valve, then the other etc. Bleeding the fluid under pressure. Only then we got the air out of the system.
Maybe your system works the same?

[dug224]

Originally Posted by RockinKees

Are seatbelt a must in the States?
I see almost everbody puts them in.

I too put them in but it's not required overhere, I do it for my own "safety".
Kinda like you do it, only I have a small window, thats easier
You also use these plates for the bottom?

About the brakes, when we had this at work (Mercedes Benz trucks and Vans) we had to bleed via the computer to get the antilock free of air. The computer opened one valve, then the other etc. Bleeding the fluid under pressure. Only then we got the air out of the system.
Maybe your system works the same?

I'm sure having seat belts is not a requirement by law for this old of a vehicle especially here in Alabama. I too am doing it for my own safety. Even if the cab collapses behind me in a wreck, it should slow me down enough to keep me alive if I hit the steering wheel. The female portion of the seat belt is mounted to the seat and the seats do have plates below the cab. In addition, I'll definitely have a large plate under the cab holding the seat belt reel end.

I've been discussing the ABS module with DSRAVEN (Dennis). He's pretty familiar with these and basically agrees with you that it has to be bled using the computer. If the brakes don't perform well, I'll remove the module when I send the cab to the blaster and replace with hard tubing and then add a proportioning (pressure reducing valve) valve. dug

[dsraven]

maybe you could find the wiring diagram for the antilock brake module, where the hydraulic lines etc go in and come out, then possibly power up the inlet and outlet solenoids to create a flow through similar to what the scanner would do.then you could bleed as usual personally i would go old school on this and just remove it all if you dont plan on doing the body control module wiring.

[dsraven]

Hey dugg,since you have that whizzie pressure bleeder, maybe try bleeding at each line fitting, starting at the master cyl and working down from there. You may find that you could simply disconnect a system line at a time and delete the antilock module easily at the same time by using line connector fittings. That may bring your pedal height up to spec. Also, is it the original pedal etc? If not the geometry/length of pedal arm may be the reason you dont meet spec. If you get a rock hard pedal upon brake application, with engine off, then you likely dont have air in the system. Check that the pedal stroke length is reasonable with ample room between the pedal and the floor at full application, check that the pushrod is adjusted for proper clearance at the master cyl.then.