Project: Tow-Rat (Lil' Blue)

[dsraven]

is there a plan for a cross bar or stiffener at the front of the frame rails? maybe something to keep the rails at the same distance from each other would be good, other than the front bumper, just to cut down on the flex. I have seen the old front ends, like the cross member donor truck, and how much they can flex when dry steering. just a thought, don't want the bumper bolts flexing and cracking the paint or whatever.

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by dsraven

is there a plan for a cross bar or stiffener at the front of the frame rails? maybe something to keep the rails at the same distance from each other would be good, other than the front bumper, just to cut down on the flex. I have seen the old front ends, like the cross member donor truck, and how much they can flex when dry steering. just a thought, don't want the bumper bolts flexing and cracking the paint or whatever.

defined plan, no ... but i do have ideas. this chassis is significantly stiffer than the factory one to start, but better is better. i still have the factory triangulation bars from the 78 chassis, they'll most likely tie into the front of the frame where my bumper mounts weld on. my motor mount connectors are also 1000x stiffer.

[6DoF]

did get to work on the 55 a little over the holiday, i was actually able to finish all my painting! just need to let a few more things cure for a few more days and we'll be good to go on assembly of a full rolling chassis.

front end is all together and the rear axle is too, just need to let the truck-arms cure to install.

[youngrodder]

Looks great. I love the contrast.

Marc

[daddyjeep]

It's almost going to be a shame to cover all that up with fenders

[lower50's]

Oooooooooooo So fun.

[Dieselwrencher]

Very nice! What are you using for the black?

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Very nice! What are you using for the black?

both the orange and black are Summit Racing Single Stage, the orange is a gloss bright metallic and the black is a from there flat hot rod line but it's a semi-gloss.

[6DoF]

this weekend i really got after putting bolts in! now i just need to get more bolts it can however support it's own weight again.

got a few more things i can just bolt on to get off the shelf/floor, then i really need to start working on getting the engine in. transmission needs cleaned/painted, rear main seal, clutch, and painting the oil pan and valve covers with sound control before i stab it between the rails. once in i have more work that'll need done, but getting there.

[youngrodder]

Man....you were busy. Nicely done..

Marc

[lower50's]

Looks so good!! Are you putting a trailer hitch or something joining the rear frame rails?

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Man....you were busy. Nicely done..

Marc

as good as it feels to have it going together like this, cleaning the shop up feels even better. organized piles and open floor space with room to move! i spent as much time organizing and cleaning as i did on the assembly

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Looks so good!! Are you putting a trailer hitch or something joining the rear frame rails?

yeah, once i get the bed on there i'll need to weld in some kind of bumper mount and receiver hitch. i need the bed together before i can really place the hitch or either bumper though. i made a conscious decision to move on with chassis paint and assembly before i built the bed structure so i could paint the chassis outside before winter. it gives me a chance to drive it in the spring vs just starting paint then, but i kinda wish i had done it before at this point.

[6DoF]

yesterday i ordered more parts, mostly for the air and bulkheads into the cab. would be nice to have that plumbed for easier moving. last night i wrapped up the WATT's link and got the axle centered, then wrapped up the heat exchanger mount. there's just something mechanically sexy about the watt's, plus the duals, what an a$s on this truck. to get the heat exchangers into the cage they won't just drop in straight so i couldn't make a divider to keep them apart. ended up using some left over UHMW from a jeep skid plate to made spacers that bolted to the straps, they seam real solid now!

i think with that i'm as far as i can get cleaning up the shop and consolidating parts now until the engine/trans are in the chassis. so here we go.

[Jason 56]

Wow, your feeling of accomplishment must be off the charts! That is coming together very nice. I’d be proud to show off that rig! Great work

[6DoF]

thanks! was feeling pretty good last night, but kind of over-shadowed by knowing what's left still this morning

[Dieselwrencher]

Thanks for the info on the paint. I heard there stuff was pretty good and relatively easy to work with. It looks sweet! That Watts Link is so bad azz! I really wanted to put one on the back of my 72 but was in a hurry to finish the rear suspension and didn't. Maybe someday I'll change that? Are you putting lizard skin on the oil pan and valve covers?

[youngrodder]

Nice work...Lots of progress. I was planning to re-look at my Watts link. I don't think I have it set up correctly. I was just reading some info this week.

At ride height my bars are parallel to the ground but my Watts center link is straight up and down which it sounds like it is not correct.

Marc

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Thanks for the info on the paint. I heard there stuff was pretty good and relatively easy to work with. It looks sweet! That Watts Link is so bad azz! I really wanted to put one on the back of my 72 but was in a hurry to finish the rear suspension and didn't. Maybe someday I'll change that? Are you putting lizard skin on the oil pan and valve covers?

so i REALLY like this paint, it's easy and works. could probably get a better finish if i used a little reducer and laid it a little thinner film thickness though. also, i used the Rustolium self-etching primer under it. i love that stuff for adhesion to metal and dried SUPER fast, but turns out that this paint doesn't stick super awesome to it. if doing it again i would use some other primer between the self-etching and top coat. or just some other primer to prep the bare metal.

i have to put anti-seize on every washer before i tighten any bolts, and i'm still getting some that'll chip the paint in a twist right at the edge when i tighten them.

the valve covers, oil pan, and tappet cover are known to be where a lot of the sound from a 12V comes from. the pump is the other major offender for being loud. while the engine is out i'm going to spray those bits with sound control lizardskin to see if it helps at all. it can't hurt right?

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Nice work...Lots of progress. I was planning to re-look at my Watts link. I don't think I have it set up correctly. I was just reading some info this week.

At ride height my bars are parallel to the ground but my Watts center link is straight up and down which it sounds like it is not correct.

Marc

i mean, you've not crashed right? haha

is it acting weird driving it? i feel like any gains or ill effects would only be seen in times of high force. you don't really plan to road race that burb right? it's been a while since i ran the numbers or researched them much, but as long as you don't have a crazy short center link, or large amounts of travel while driving i can't see it being too much of an issue.

though, adding some link length is probably pretty easy.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

i mean, you've not crashed right? haha

is it acting weird driving it? i feel like any gains or ill effects would only be seen in times of high force. you don't really plan to road race that burb right? it's been a while since i ran the numbers or researched them much, but as long as you don't have a crazy short center link, or large amounts of travel while driving i can't see it being too much of an issue.

though, adding some link length is probably pretty easy.

No racing this pig..ha ha. From what I read you wouldn't not notice while driving if it is set up correctly however it would not limit the side to side axle movement if not adjusted correctly. To be honest I seen on one of the inside edges of my rims that it rubbed at some point and it has to be from side to side movement as I have adequate clearance up and down.

It will be easy to confirm. I just need to find my 1/2 travel and see that the watts and bars look like. Then adjust accordingly. Explained below (good info)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWl3Cd7edgM

This is my first rodeo with a Watts.

Marc

[dsraven]

as a heavy duty mechanic by trade I can say that when we install anything on a painted surface it is standard practice to clean the surface down to bare metal on the part and also the attachment point. then run a thread chaser on any threads required to attach, then a layer of anitsieze on the surfaces before installation. paint under an attachment will usually mean the bolts come loose at some point because the paint wears away or chips away between the parts as things get stressed and then you start over. I know some who install the new parts according to plan and then paint over that spot. it will likely show though.
if youre building a trailer queen or show truck, probably not a big deal. if you plan to drive it and want longevity, maybe mark around the part to be installed and buff the contact surfaces?

[6DoF]

any new build i like to go back and "nut-n-bolt" after use. with a jeep that's like one trail ride, but i was thinking more like after a cruise season with this. i do plan to tow with this, but defiantly not the first year. good info sir

[lower50's]

One thing I thought about looking at your big a$$ was.......... Oh wait that sounded dirty. Your rear end........ umm not much better. Your dually axle... there we go,
was you are most likely going to have to run lower air pressure in the tires. I run my 4 little 205/55's at 20 psi each unless I'm pulling a car trailer other wise I find the axle bounces over bigger bumps. Thought I would mention it while I remembered.
I love the look of the dually with the BFG's

[6DoF]

wow, 20 seams low but that makes sense. i've never driven a DRW, so "dually noted"

first tires on my YJ after the axle swap were 35x15.5-15 SX's ... they ran at like 18 on the street