57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

if you want a stylish one, that looks nice. if I ever put one on I will get an LED fog light and install it under the bed so its mostly invisible when off but looks like a blinding portal to heaven when I need to back up.

where I live though the LED tail lights do a great job of lighting things up behind me.

Good tip --- I have a few LED lights around and they are cheap

Last electrical question for the weekend .....

Is this how most people wire their harness to their ignition (with proper soldered/crimped connects of course.



Just seem to be big wires ...... I know they are fused at the block ...... but just want to make sure as I assume a lot of current goes through that on startup etc.

[joedoh]

is that the back of the key switch?

almost no current goes through the start wire, it has a solenoid that engages the big batt wire.

everything switched by the key and fused at the fusebox runs through those wires, all acc and ign circuits, thats the origin!

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

is that the back of the key switch?

almost no current goes through the start wire, it has a solenoid that engages the big batt wire.

everything switched by the key and fused at the fusebox runs through those wires, all acc and ign circuits, thats the origin!

Yup back of key switch.
Just suprised to see such thick wires.
But like 'ACC' could be powering a bunch of stuff like radios, lights right ?

Anyway- ok to wire up like this - I assume so as most builds I've seen do the same.

[FAKKY]

I have been chasing down a lack of power to my new ididt column front left turn signal.

I think its a problem with the column - unless there is some trickery I don't understand.

Using a powerprobe.

With key on ign I have power to Purple (Turn Signal Feed) at connector L

When i select Right turn signal - I have power at back of wires of the ididit column plug (for right F and right read - Green[N] and Royal Blue [J])

When I select no turn signal there is no power.
When I select hazard my dash lights and rear lights up correctly.

But.
When I select left turn signal
I have power at back of ididit column plug connector M (yellow left rear) but have NO power at connector H (light blue left front turn).

seems to me like an issue with that circuit internally ....

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

everything switched by the key and fused at the fusebox runs through those wires, all acc and ign circuits, thats the origin!

Right - but just wondering since thats the case why they use (guessing here on exact thickness) 14 gauge wire to the ACC for example .... instead of say 20 gauge. More for my education.

[FAKKY]

Think I worked out/stumbled on power to front indicator issue. Bad groudn somewhere. I had to tak my rear left light out to fish the licence plate wire though and lost power on self grounding housing ..... but then got power to front Weird ..... well probably not weird just ...... now I know.

The wiring and bulb is toast for the licence plate, single wire self grounded.
Anyone got any recommendations on replacement bulb/socket for rear license plate ?
Has to fit in that small housing and also have "lip" on it to attach to stock plate bracket.

[joedoh]

its usually grounds haha.

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Right - but just wondering since thats the case why they use (guessing here on exact thickness) 14 gauge wire to the ACC for example .... instead of say 20 gauge. More for my education.

well I wouldnt even wire a radio on 20ga.

it goes batt->ign switch->fusebox and THEN out to everything from the fusebox, so the wire in has to be bigger than the sum of the wires out.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

it goes batt->ign switch->fusebox and THEN out to everything from the fusebox, so the wire in has to be bigger than the sum of the wires out.

And I guess since its a small run (IGN switch) to the fuse box where it splits out .... it can support a lot of AMP even on 14GA or whatever it is as its only a 4ft run.

Wonder what those switches can typically hold before issues with a lot of circuits active.

[FAKKY]

This is the light socket for real licence plate need to find a replacement for.



closest I have found so far is .....

https://tinyurl.com/w6dqzvg

[joedoh]

based on the lugs on your key switch I would say its probably 30A.

the wires you are showing look like 12ga, which can handle ~20a in short runs, maybe a little more. modern ignition wiring is almost 10ga, so probably 11?

wire gauge is like steel gauge, the lower the number the higher the capacity, so 12ga is the same as having 6 20ga.

its worth stating that fuses are there to protect the wire, not the equipment, so the max current of a wire is reflected in the fuse size.

you can rebuild that socket, a lot of companies make a bulb base repair kit, or you can use a replacement. search for 1156 which is the single filament bayonet mounting bulb type. here is one I found quickly

https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Wirin.../dp/B008DXRJN2

remember that your current socket grounds through the base in contact with the sheetmetal. newer sockets may have a separate ground.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

based on the lugs on your key switch I would say its probably 30A.

the wires you are showing look like 12ga, which can handle ~20a in short runs, maybe a little more. modern ignition wiring is almost 10ga, so probably 11?

wire gauge is like steel gauge, the lower the number the higher the capacity, so 12ga is the same as having 6 20ga.

its worth stating that fuses are there to protect the wire, not the equipment, so the max current of a wire is reflected in the fuse size.

you can rebuild that socket, a lot of companies make a bulb base repair kit, or you can use a replacement. search for 1156 which is the single filament bayonet mounting bulb type. here is one I found quickly

https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Wirin.../dp/B008DXRJN2

remember that your current socket grounds through the base in contact with the sheetmetal. newer sockets may have a separate ground.

Thanks Joedoh.
I think off the ignition terminal I have two wires .... essentially 1 that powers half of the body fuse panel ..... and 1 that goes to my LS engine control panel (coils, fuel pump etc) ..... so just got me thinking wonder how that all works in terms of safety off the switch itself.

Got all of the wiring under the dash cleaned up last night night .... more work than I thought inverted on my back hiding wires
Should be ready to start hanging the front clip here soon and wiring the front lights.

[FAKKY]

Been in and out ..... got most of wiring done now ..... and front end assembled


Everything works --- just waiting on bluetooth speakers and a USB charger to arrive.

Need to tackle E-Brake. Wired the switch up so actuator works fine.
But need to splice into the ford 8.8 brake cable system .... pic attached.



What would the part be called to attach the end of a cable ...... to a pin hole on end of actuator.
Im guessing some sort of clevis ..... with a single wire hold ?

eg

Something like this - but only for 1 wire not 2 .....

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-s-8078

[joedoh]

ahhh brand new tires on a project is my favorite look

[84blaze]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Is this how most people wire their harness to their ignition (with proper soldered/crimped connects of course.

Quick tip: If you're wiring with stripped wire ends like that also remember to wrap the wires around the stud clockwise so when you tighten the nut it helps wrap the wires around the stud rather than pushing them off.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

ahhh brand new tires on a project is my favorite look

Thanks - new - but been sitting for almost 3 years lol Should have bought some rollers first.

Originally Posted by 84blaze

Quick tip: If you're wiring with stripped wire ends like that also remember to wrap the wires around the stud clockwise so when you tighten the nut it helps wrap the wires around the stud rather than pushing them off.

Good tip. That was just a mockup to see her start ..... all my wires are shrink wrapped with terminal ends.

I am thinking to join the cable to the actuator ....

https://www.swingsetmall.com/stainle...double-clevis/

Have the larger side clevis pin through the actuator.
Wrap the cable wire around the smaller clevis and clamp with ferrule/sleeve.

https://www.e-rigging.com/How-to-Sel...-Swage-Sleeves


See any issues ?

[FAKKY]

Got the radio installed.
Sounds great for $70. Turn your PC up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFPlMd6oOnM

[FAKKY]

Got my electric parking brake wired and cabled up ......... all crimped.
Now need to mount and wire to 12v.

[slammed57]

I'll be working on this same thing next week, just got my actuator in the mail. lol

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by slammed57

I'll be working on this same thing next week, just got my actuator in the mail. lol

Right on ......... now I need to work out how to make my explorer rear end brakes work.
Came like this from junkyard.





If you pull on the main wire ---- it only pulls the spring on the drivers side (shorter) wire. Not sure how that larger grey metal and bracket mechanism is meant to work right there.

I *think* what I will need to do is remove all that and somehow bridge the two cables into teh main cable with a dual adapter. Like one of these ... that holds main cable aut one end .... and both other cables at other end (so 2).



Thoughts, ideas , suggestions ?

[FAKKY]

Almost like either

https://tinyurl.com/y9xffxeb

or

https://tinyurl.com/ydxk8p4q

or similar

[Rusti]

The original system is not perfect but it works. You have to bolt the plate where the cables are connected, shown in your picture, to the frame. Than just use an old brake cable and connect the little metal ball at the end to the original cable connector you show in picture number 3. The other end has to be connected to the park brake motor the same way you are showing in picture number 1 and 2.
Please correct me if I am work.
So long
Arnd

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by Rusti

The original system is not perfect but it works. You have to bolt the plate where the cables are connected, shown in your picture, to the frame. Than just use an old brake cable and connect the little metal ball at the end to the original cable connector you show in picture number 3. The other end has to be connected to the park brake motor the same way you are showing in picture number 1 and 2.
Arnd

Not quite following ...... i've tried every combo I canthnk of ...... but it never puts tension on the passenger side.

Was thinking about seperating the cables ...... and joining like this and welding the two together.

Then the one main cable would pull both.
I would lose a bit of adjustment on each cable but I could use a pulley style to lengthen or loosen the wire as required.




thoughts ?

[FAKKY]

So getting around to tackle this .........
Whats everyones/anyones thoughts on routing ?

I made a little block jig thing to support the wires ...... and I think it will have to be routed sort of like im holding it with a big eye bolt or two holing in place on frame rail.

The drivers side goes right under the rear leafs ......
The passenger side goes around the diff to the other side.

The eye bolts would hold in place together and also allow me to move away from leafs a few inches.

thoughts ?




Block that supports the two rear lines and will be pulled from middle. Just mocked up ... it will have more support and be straight.



Where the plastic coupler tying the two is - I would put a heavy duty eye bolt or heim or similar to hold and keep away from leaf spring.

[FAKKY]

Sort of liek this guy (on the eye bolt deal)

[dsraven]

check post 2

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ble-route.html