The Official John Lee Jr Thread

[shok]

Can you put up some heat riser pics? I never thought to check that on mine, I assumed there was no moving part for the heat riser like an old VW.
I do have an occasional hot starting issue so maybe this is related....

[Sharps40]

Edited and corrected, I had my positions backwards when I typed this initially.....


Had requests for pics.

Here is mine fully closed, all exhaust leaves w/o impinging the intake manifold... the spring is a PO add on for what ever reason, it ain' factory. But here the ehaust is directed 100% down and out the pipe.... minimum heat on the intake..... but still some percolation on shut down since the gas eventually boils out, specially the new alcohol blends. I'll probably also need an insulating spacer between carb and manifold....a winter project. For now, just makin sure I' have it set for all exhaust out, none on the intake manifold....



And here, the cold start position...flapper inside is fully open and exhaust is directed up and down and out....i.e. there is direct gas contact on the base of the intake manifold.



This is the backside, the broken spring that makes it all work...spring rotates the flapper around when hot and cold to variously heat the intake manifold. I won't fix it, just leave the flapper full closed and see how it works as far as boilin the gasoline in the carb.



There are several renditions of this manifold and valve assembly...on some the flat on the counterweight indicates the direction/position of the flapper, some are opposite, the half moon shows the flapper position some like this one, the flapper is 90 degrees to the flat on the counter weight.....some have the springs on the front, some on the rear...only way to know for sure if the flapper is open or closed is to drop the headpipe and look up inside. I did, this is fully closed, all exhaust down and out for sure.

Since I lubed the shaft, it moves freely once again....doh! And the old springs are broken so it'll never function right in an automatic mode till removed and rebuilt with new springs, doh! So since I dont' need mainifold heat on cold start here in NC, I'll block it fully closed and try to reduce the total heat load/potential for boil over in the carb on shut down.

[shok]

Thanks for the pics, I've noticed full warm the truck sometimes takes a few stomps of the gas pedal to start, reminds me of what some other cars have done when overheated. I'll see what I have on my manifold.

[Sharps40]

With the weber adjusted and the HEI now, I no longer touch the gas pedal before turning the key.

I just turn the key and when it catches, give the pedal a light goose and off we go....runnin like fuel injection.

[Sharps40]

Run it in this morning. It starts and goes down the road just fine on the electric choke/good Weber w/o any manifold heat. Run about 60 all the way to work and popped the hood on arrival. I realize its cooler this morning but the underhood temps seems down a good bit. I was able to put my hand on the intake manifold and the amount of cooldown craklin and poppin was less. We'll see how it does in the evening heat.

[Sharps40]

Much improved. Got it home, parked in the driveway and waited....and waited and waited....

Usually would get a bad gas smell in about 3 to 5 minutes and you could hear it perkin like a coffee pot. With the manifold damper closed, it was about 20 minutes till I heard any perkin and it was more like bubbles. Much reduced from a vigorous boil to a simmer and took a lot longer for the heat to soak its way up to the bowl. Quite a bit less fuel smell around the truck too, pretty much none.

Getting close enough to fall now I don't think there is a need to get much more involved in this. Fall plans included suspension overhaul some brake tweaks and readjustment of the pedal linkage...I think that'll be time enough to install an insulator plate between the carb and adaptor. Should fix it up just fine for next summer.

[Sharps40]

Originally Posted by Old Bleu

Rich, I was in Detroit a couple of weeks ago to pick up a cousin at the airport for a family reunion. I ran up to Utica (northeast Detroit) and picked up a T5 and the last mini HEI from Tom Langdon. He haa a nice shop setup at his home, and wish I'd had more time to visit with him. I got a world class T5 from an S10, but he also had a world class from a Camaro sitting in the shop. It was a tough choice, but I opted for the S10 unit. Tom cut a short length off the end of the input shaft, and told me to compensate for that, I'd need to wallow out the splines on the back side of the clutch disk a bit so it releases completely. As I understand it, all I will need is the yoke for the output end and to get the stock drive shaft shortened. Tom was leaving the next day to take the grandkids to Florida, so he was busy trying to get stuff ready before leaving. The guy is a walking encyclopedia on these trucks. I wish we'd had more time!

Tim

Tim,

I'm waitin on a call back from Tom...but....been thinkin bout the above and yer PM. Why wallow out the clutch splines... Seems is the input shaft is shortened to fit...I got it....makes it able to slide into the crankshaft and bolt up...

So, rather than wallow out clutch plates if there are splines under the throwout bearing collar, can't ya shorten it instead?


Seemingly, as long as the shortened throwout bearing collar is a schooch longer than the forward location of the spring fingers of the pressureplate when assembled - the bearing won't pop off and it should free up the space needed for disengagement of the driven plate.

It seems a more elegant solution, now both the input shaft and bearing shaft are proper lenght like the original trans.

Have ya talked to Tom yet? Is he recommending modding the plate cause its easier for a home mechanic?

[Sharps40]

Bleu,

I think I answered my own question....info on inliners for a T5 install on a 79 C10 indicates shortning the input shaft, the bearing shaft and extending the input shaft splines by hand.....and useing a standard available clutch plate w/o mods.

So, yep, modding the clutch hub splines is the easier solution.

Linkie.....

http://www.inliners.org/ubbthreads/u...bf4b961b9c87e0

T5 modifications:
Remove the shifter and tape over the rectangular hole. This allows you to install your tunnel pan to be marked for the new hole for the T5 shifter.
Drill out to ½” diameter, the 4 holes in the T5 mount “ears” that bolt to the bell housing.
Trim 3/8” length from the end of the T5 input shaft. I did this with an angle grinder with a cut off wheel. Bevel the end with a file or Dremel so the tip slides into the pilot bushing easily.
Remove the input bearing retainers from the SM465 and the T5 and had Columbia Machine Works trim the T5 retainer off to the same length as the SM465 retainer. You can do this in your shop with a cut off wheel but a lathe does a nicer job.
Reinstall your trimmed bearing retainer on the T5 tranny.
This next operation is a must do. Lengthen the splines on the T5 input shaft. Tape up the gap between the bearing retainer and the input shaft to keep metal particles out. Use a dremel with a cutoff wheel and just “massage” the splines with the tool to lengthen them approx 3/8”. Use your new clutch disc to check that the disc moves freely across the lengthened sections of the splines.

More work but i think the mods above are still the more elegant solution....I gotta talk with The Man!!

[Old Bleu]

Yeah, I think I like the idea of lengthening the splines on the shaft as opposed to "wallowing out" the splines on the back side of the clutch disk. That might just have to be my project for tomorrow. I'm still waiting on a neighbor who has access to a hoist to help me install the transmission, so I have plenty of time.

Next project is to update to the SI alternator. I really appreciate all your posts on what you've done to John Lee and Junior. I'm pretty much just following in your footsteps!

I do have an HEI question though. When I was picking up the tranny, Tom had one last mini HEI left, so I bought it. The directions say to run a 10 gauge wire from the ignition switch for power. I have not called Tom about it, but does he literally mean from the switch on the dash??? As I understand it, I need a full 12 volts, both during cranking and running. Isn't there a wire for this already in the harness? Although I don't think there are any 10 gauge wires in the harness.

[Sharps40]

Couple options on the dizzy....I ran 12g from the bulkhead connector to the dizzy after pullin out the resistance wire...full 12 volts to dizzy and the pathways are same as factory/harness looks factory.

Some folks run a 10g from fuze box, Ignition Unfused to the dizzy and simply delete the resistance wire between dizzy and bulkhead. The result is the same, switched 12 volts to the HEI.

I didn't run 10 g like tom said cause I couldn't barely fit a soldered on 12g back into the factory bulkhead connector! Functionally, so far, so good with the 12g wire. For the short run from bulkhead to dizzy I think its doing fine.

As for the trans in your truck...pics pics and more pics and for heavens sake more pics as you go.....

Finally, I'm findin between here, SC and you in GA we got about 3 or 4 fellas what needs to get together in their trucks at some central point for a weekend of lookin stuff over and beer and cruising and some lies.

[Sharps40]

PS, ye'll wind up deletin the wire from starter to old dizzy/coil when ya install the hei. Like I said, I think 12g from bulkhead connector to HEI is plenty. Ya could prolly run it from the switch if ya wanted....even 10g if ya like for the longer run from either switch or Fuze Box.

[Old Bleu]

Gotcha, a wire from the fuse box makes sense to me. I'll probably go with 12 gauge too as 10 seems awfully big. Guess I'll see when I get around to it. I just paid my dues as a member, so I guess I will figure out how to post pictures. Old Blue is a '64 swb stepside with a 230 and three speed.

I like the idea of getting together with some southern members. I was actually in Sanford a couple years ago. Had a local guy swap a 5 speed into my 2001 New Beetle TDI diesel commuter car. Drove up on a Friday with an auomatic, he did the swap Friday night and Saturday morning,and I drove a 5 speed home within 24 hours. Little car has 287,000 miles on it, and gives me an honest 49 - 50 mpg on my commute into Atlanta!

[Sharps40]

Well then....we gotta get stuff all T5d up and hit the road fall or spring. I used to live closer, Douglasville, worked at Ft. McPherson then they shuffled us up to Bragg so now in the sprawling sandhills metropolis of Sanford NC....and lovin ever single day.

But for now, off to bed methinks....0440 tomorrow up for eggs and cock the crossbow for the opening day Deer season....with luck, bloody to the elbows in deer guts affore noon!

[Mike1984]

PM sent
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[Sharps40]

Got yer pm...will answer tonight...headin back down to the stand for evening hunt.

[Sharps40]

Lil bit of side work while the deer are layin up at lunch and chewin the cud...

Strip the doors off GoodWife's 2013 JK...she's been rollin like this for 2 months...lets make it pretty.







Test fitting the first of 4 rugged ridge tube doors....grease the pins and drop em in, install the nuts and if they latch right....on to the next door....





All four on, cinched tight, latching properly and doing the initial install on the check straps....





The door side check strap pin, it ain't gonna hold a strap on that open pin for long...

[Sharps40]

Slip on the strap and a tap with the small SmasherWacker to close the gap/retain the strap.



Drill and install the screws for the door bumpers/anti rattlers....



Install the bumper/anit rattler



Either transfer mirrors from the original doors or add junk yard dogs....or...we'll use the originals for now but making new brackets and will mount up a nice set of 1965 Chevy Black Rectangle mirrors later....saves transferrin mirrors with each door change and the new brackets will be more tubular like the doors.



With the mirrors cinched down proper and adjusted....

[Sharps40]

Next week, I think, we'll be adding 6000 lb hitch and harness and an under seat gun vault.....but here's the doors, ready for a trip out and Mother In Law can't fall out now, damn....











Body and suspension lift likely coming soon along with bikini top and a cargo and back seat cover.

[Sharps40]

I have edited and corrected Post 402 dealing with the position of the exhaust heat manifold riser valve as I had my positions backwards on the initial write up. Again, look into yer manifold to ensure ya know which position is open and closed.

[shok]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

I have edited and corrected Post 402 dealing with the position of the exhaust heat manifold riser valve as I had my positions backwards on the initial write up. Again, look into yer manifold to ensure ya know which position is open and closed.

Thanks for updating that part. On mine the spring is broken but the flapper itself moves freely. The half moon seems to work as a counterweight and it always goes to what matches your fully closed pic. I still have so look up in the manifold to verify that it's indeed closed.

I'll look a bit to see if anyone makes a new spring kit, doubt I really need it since at most it gets down to 29 deg here, and on those days I usually hide in the house like a wimp.
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[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by shok

Thanks for updating that part. On mine the spring is broken but the flapper itself moves freely. The half moon seems to work as a counterweight and it always goes to what matches your fully closed pic. I still have so look up in the manifold to verify that it's indeed closed.

I'll look a bit to see if anyone makes a new spring kit, doubt I really need it since at most it gets down to 29 deg here, and on those days I usually hide in the house like a wimp.
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If the weight rotates the flap inside without any resistance or spring tension, then the inside flap may rattle. On mine, I think the PO let it rattle around until the weld holding the rod to the flap broke. Mine is repaired now but I had to remove the manifold to do so. New springs are available. Tom Langdon told me that if temps where you live don't get very cold, then you could weld or secure it in the closed position and you'd be fine.

[shok]

Well I guess until I look at it further I'll wire it up so it can't vibrate and cause more damage. Thanks for the info.
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[Old Bleu]

Tom is such a proponent of a heated intake manifold that I'm surprised he'd tolerate fixing it open

[Sharps40]

Water heat....slow, cooler and consistent....exhaust heat fast and damnibly hot, sometimes too much so.

Wireing it shut in a mild climate like the south is usually no worry as long as ya have a good choke. Really cold days, just let it idle a bit longer till heat soak works its way up. As long as the carb doesn't ice on cold days ya prolly got enough heat.

Michigan, all bets are off, heat it or plan on piss poor driveabilty till its totally hot under the hood.

[K98AL]

But did you kill any deer?