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Old 09-18-2016, 04:58 PM   #1
smbrouss70
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

It's all part of it... Get that out of the way, then the fun stuff can start!
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Old 09-19-2016, 04:04 PM   #2
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

Dang Chris, I thought this rig was without rust. I see you are making it right. Keep up the good work!
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:30 PM   #3
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

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Looks good!
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Dang Chris, I thought this rig was without rust. I see you are making it right. Keep up the good work!
Thanks guys! Nothing like what some people deal with, but there's a few spots. I'm slowly exorcising the demons
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:27 AM   #4
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

The repairs are looking good.
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:26 AM   #5
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

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The repairs are looking good.
Thanks! Getting deep, now:
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Old 09-20-2016, 12:17 PM   #6
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

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Thanks! Getting deep, now:
Luck be with you, I'm starting rockers, body mounts, and all kinds of body repair on my 1974 K10. It's gonna be a hell of a job.
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Old 09-20-2016, 02:52 PM   #7
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

Nice progress Chris! Looks like you are into it deep now. What's the plan for paint? just gonna touch it up and blend it?
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:35 AM   #8
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

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Luck be with you, I'm starting rockers, body mounts, and all kinds of body repair on my 1974 K10. It's gonna be a hell of a job.
Hell is right, but it's a fun hell that's worth it in the end. Good luck to you!
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Nice progress Chris! Looks like you are into it deep now. What's the plan for paint? just gonna touch it up and blend it?
Thanks, and yup, trying to keep it all below the trim, so there's little blending required and I can maintain the rest of the original patina, since that's so popular these days . Had to get the paint shop to remix, as their first attempt from the code was too light. Dropped the glove box door off for a match.
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Old 09-21-2016, 01:08 AM   #9
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

Started out today after poking at the rust, being able to see the ground through the bed floor and rear cross sill. I cut it all out only to find that the good metal was under the rear stake pillar. At this point, I had two options, remove the bedside, or cut the post. I took the path of least resistance.

Made a patch for the cross sill and welded it in. Was nice to weld on something sturdy that I could actually stitch instead of using a million tacks. Coated it in weld through primer then fitted the ribs. The patch for this area is actually nicer than the original GM stamping with clean, crisp edges at the end of the ribs. Almost makes me want to use the whole thing. Almost. Lined up pretty good, with only minor massaging to get the peaks and valleys aligned. It will take a little extra body work to be perfect, or I might just leave it, as it will be under the carpet.

I'll have to button up the pillar tomorrow, as I got sidetracked with the quart of POR-15 I picked up while at the paint store today. I coated all kinds of stuff, and was actually having fun doing it (I think the fumes were getting to me )

Side note: POR does not come off of skin easily. I have heard this a number of times and it is true. Very true. I'm just glad I wear long sleeves to work...

The other side should be less involved, as the damaged area appears smaller and I don't have the gas filler/vent to contend with. We'll see tomorrow
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:35 AM   #10
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

nice work. where'd you get that patch panel. reason,IMHO, they always rust out there is wheel splash. I suppose we should seal up that area with dum--dum

I can't see the seam
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Old 09-21-2016, 01:35 PM   #11
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

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nice work. where'd you get that patch panel. reason,IMHO, they always rust out there is wheel splash. I suppose we should seal up that area with dum--dum
Thanks! The patch is cut from the bed floor repair panel from GMCPauls. It's the entire width, and around 15" long. I'll end up throwing probably 90% of it away...

I plan on POR-ing the crap out of the area then sealing the leading edge of the crossmember where it meets the floor with flexible seam sealer.
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I can't see the seam
That's the idea
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Old 09-21-2016, 02:44 PM   #12
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

...and done. Including the big, boogery factory style weld holding the bedside to floor
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:43 PM   #13
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

Thought I could get away with not cutting the stake post, but the good metal was just a little too deep. This side is going easier than the drivers, partly due to no extra stuff in the way, and partly due to the learning curve.

The cross sill is patched and the floor patch is fitted. Need to punch the plug weld holes and she's ready to burn in. Taking it easy tonight, so I'll weld it in the morning. Thanks for tagging along
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:32 AM   #14
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

Done and done. Pass side patch did not line up as well for whatever reason. Took a little extra persuasion to coerce the ribs into alignment. Metal straightened and body-worked the drivers side as well. I'm through with this area until final prep for paint

Looks like it's time to move on to the A and B pillars, which I am not looking forward to. I am, however, looking forward to coating the insides of the rocker boxes in POR--this stuff is addictive
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Old 09-23-2016, 08:10 AM   #15
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

Excellent work on the rust repairs Chris. You made that look way too easy
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Old 09-23-2016, 08:26 AM   #16
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

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Excellent work on the rust repairs Chris. You made that look way too easy
Thanks, Mike. The pictures don't do justice to all of the cutting/fitting/grinding/welding that goes into the repairs. Honestly, this is my first time attacking rust this extensive; I learned most everything I'm doing here by watching folks like you on this board.
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Old 09-23-2016, 11:22 AM   #17
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

Randomly selected B pillar first. I've seen worse...
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:03 PM   #18
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

Done cutting(?) for now. Leaving as much of the existing metal as I can.

Rocker box is super solid. Time to POR inside the B pillar, while it's accessible.
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Old 09-23-2016, 02:51 PM   #19
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

First patch in and POR'ed: I only ground the welds that have a chance of being seen
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Old 09-23-2016, 05:44 PM   #20
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

Built a template for the next piece and burned it in:
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Old 09-23-2016, 06:58 PM   #21
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

You do great work!
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Old 09-23-2016, 07:21 PM   #22
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

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You do great work!
Thanks, man. All I know is I do slow work

Finished the outside of the support; still need to work the leading edge then it's ready to be skinned. Looking at these pictures makes me want to grind the welds in there--I need to get it buttoned up soon to quell the urge to perfect it. Ended here for the day:
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Old 09-24-2016, 04:07 PM   #23
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

Cut a piece for the front side of the support and fitted a 95% solution for the outer skin:
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Old 09-25-2016, 09:15 PM   #24
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

Tack, tack, tack, grind, tack, tack, tack, grind, sand, prime. It needs a little hammer/dolly and a skim coat of filler.
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Old 09-25-2016, 09:41 PM   #25
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Germany, for now
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Re: How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5

Then the A pillar... HartRob, in his Superburb thread, described this area as a five-dimensional puzzle. I tend to agree. Everything comes together in the same place, then traps dirt/moisture and rots it all.

I cut out all of the offensive metal, including floor, inner rocker, kick panel, A pillar, floor support, and a small bit of the rocker box directly under the support. Decided to patch the support, as opposed to replacing it, as there was only a small area gone and the replacements I received are paper thin garbage--I used a scrap of one of the fender patches to repair the existing piece. Followed that with buttoning the rocker box back up, then ended the day with POR-ing as much of the inside of the box as I could reach. Next up: 5D puzzle
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