It’s Just A Pickup

[gcburdic]

Plus I read that the repop vent window assembly are not the best either....grin and bear it and just rebuild the originals!!!

[lghtng2]

this build is awesome, very detailed I will have to read into it more when I get home from work =)

[brn agn]

Thanks for documenting everything Bruce. When you are finished, you should pull all your notes together and make a book!

[Alan's Classic]

Very nice work, write up and pics. Subscribed!!

[Bruce88]

Some of the mud slinging has begun
The spreading and sanding of the body filler has started in some areas

A quick update on the body work being accomplished

Stopped by the shop today to check on the progress





The dents, welded seams, and minor imperfections are being addressed. Fill and sand till baby smooth (smile)

Enjoy your build

[oldblue1968chevy]

wow def. an FAQ on how to build a truck! looks good!

[VA72C10]

Coming along nicely. Looks like they're trying to keep moving on this for you which is a good sign

[mcbassin]

Nice body work progress!

[70LonghornCST]

There's not many things that make you feel as good as seeing progress such as you have going on there. Great project!

[Bruce88]

Traveling to the past
Don’t be to concerned, not that long ago (smile)

I received a PM about the tail light buckets that I installed in the fenders back on page 2 of this build thread (post #37 & #39) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=318544&page=2 . As I looked over what I posted I see that it was lacking in how I went about doing it. Thought that others fallowing this build might be interested in the information and a additional picture. With the permission of chevytruckluver I have posted the PM hear, thanks for asking the question. I think it helps clarify my build.

Tail lights (PM)
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Posted by chevytruckluver

Hi Bruce
I was reading the earlier parts of your build and saw where you recessed the back up lights into the bumper using 4in exhaust pipe. I was wondering what did you use for the tail lights into the rear fenders?
Thanks
I think you are doing a fantastic job on the truck and look forward to more

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Posted by Bruce88

Hi Trey

I hand formed some 16 gauge cold rolled (annealed) steel around some 6 inch DIA PVC pipe. Both buckets where hand formed at the same time with one sheet of metal to form a 7 inch DIA tube and the seam was welded. Then made some end caps with the same 16 gauge steel and welded them to the ends of the tube that I had made. Then cut the tube in half and I now had two buckets for the tail lights that are the same DIA size for the LH & RH fenders. After cleaning up the welds I sand blasted the buckets before welding them into the fenders. (Note) the bucket on the RH fender was set at a shallower/ less depth than the LH fender to compensate for the fuel filler door only used on the LH fender. I wanted the lights square to the bed and used some angle iron that can be seen in the pictures to find this reference point and help in setting the lights square. Because the end of the fenders where the buckets where welded into the fender is not square to the bed the depth that the bucket can be set into the fender is critical when using the LH light as a fuel filler door. It can only be set so deep so that the fuel door clears the bucket when open. I don’t have any dimensions to give you at this time to where I located the bucket in the fender to achieve the clearance needed; the fenders are down at the body shop. The location of the buckets is a fannies of factors (wanting the light as high and outboard as possible on the fender) and having every thing clear every thing (fuel filler door opening and hinge to the side of the fender) something you will need to figure out for your self depending on location and if you decide to use the bucket as a filler door.

I made some assumptions regarding your question and I apologize if I gave you more information than you wanted. Thinking you might want to make some similar buckets and use one as a fuel filler door, if not so disregard all the over complicated verbiage (smile).

I think that this question and my answer might be of a benefit to other forum members and would like to incorporate it into my build thread. What do you think and is it ok for me to post your question in the build thread.

Hope this helps you out in what you’re trying to build

Enjoy your build

Bruce

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by chevytruckluver

Thanks for the info Bruce
Since your tail lights were done in early 09 I thought it best to just send the pm. If you want to post it in the build I don’t mind at all.
I'm not sure if I will be doing a fuel door or not at least for now, but I really would like to recess the lights. Maybe I should go ahead and put that in now so when I relocate the gas tank I will be ahead of the game!
I just haven’t thought of any kind of tubing that would be a good fit. I was thinking of trying to roll some sheet metal but again I was not sure how to go about doing it. Wrapping it around some PVC sounds like a great idea!
Thanks

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Bruce88

Normally you would roll the sheet metal in a metal roller until the desired DIA is reached. This is just a backyard mechanics way of doing it without a metal roller. Another tip that might help is to us a tie down strap around the tube to bring it down to the DIA/size that you want and to hold that size when tack welding the seam.

As far as adding a fuel filler door later, it’s a lot of additional work locating it in the fender for clearance of the hinge & door and limits where it can be located in the fender and how deep. I like this idea but there are plenty of locations to locate the fuel filler depending on what style fuel tank that your using and not having a fuel door in the tail light bucket frees you up to locate the bucket in more locations on the fender.

Hope this helps you out on your project

Bruce

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Hope you find this post interesting and possibly helpful to some.

Over the years I seen many modification and wondered how they where done or could I incorporated some or all of the modification into a project. If there had been a little more information it would have made it easer for determining if I could. I’ve tried to incorporate some of that information in my posts. Some times the way I accomplish something’s is limited on the size and the tools that I have in my small shop, also my abilities or lack of. There are plenty of ways to accomplish things (some ways better than others). The way that I’m doing it might not always be the best, but it’s a starting point to possibly think about.

Keep asking the questions and we all grow

Enjoy your build

[Bruce88]

The old panels have a new covering
The door panels are back from the upholstery shop

With the seat matching material, my pattern design and a thin layer of foam, the upholstery shop has brought it all together for a different look than the original painted steel panel that lies underneath.

Sorry the pictures don’t due it justice, with the material texture, lighting, and the angle that you look at it, it’s hard to get a good representation.



Body and paint update

On Monday of this week I went into the shop to finish up the seam sealing. The primary sealing of the cab was done with a two part, brush-able, commercial sealer except for the drip rail area. The brush-able sealer was simple to apply, just apply it to the seam and brush it out with in its 10 minute working life. Note; over sealing can be just as bad as under sealing because it can cause water traps, I generally try to fallow factory sealing unless I’ve welded up the seam.

In the drip rail area I used a two part, self leveling, commercial sealer. Not having any experience using this type of sealer in the drip rail area I sot some tips from the body man. I cleaned out any old seal that was not removed during the media blasting (a very small amount). Used some red scotch bright and wax & degreaser to clean and prep the area. Taped the area off and one final cleaning with wax & degreaser. Applied the sealer on half the drip rail area and brushed it out with a ¾ inch brush so that the complete area is covered and there is enough seal to fill the metal seams. Tip; don’t over work brushing it in let the self leveling properties of the seal do its work. Remove the tape as soon as possible after brushing it out. Don’t try to do any re-brushing/repairs to the seal until its completely cured. There was about a 3 inch long run/drip at the end of the drip rail, this is normal and can be cleaned up after it’s cured. After doing the other half of the drip rail all that’s left to do is sit back and let it cure (smile)

The sealer I used was almost clear with a slight blue tint, after the next coat of primer the area will be checked for any pin holes/gaps that where missed and need to be sealed.

The original seal across the top of the cab was in good shape, even after media blasting (no cracking, separation, voids or missing seal). Decided to leave the original seal in place and not to redo this seam.

Stop into the shop on Thursday and took the below pictures, all the primary body work and sealing is done on the cab and it will be getting another coat of primer.





Another week or two in the life of a build (smile)

Enjoy your build

[mcbassin]

Great progress! Those door panels are super nice!

[msgross]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Man Bruce, this build gets better and better. The pictures with writeups and/or links to them make this thread all that's needed when building the truck Who needs a factory assembly manual

agreed, thanks for taking the extra time to document the process as you are...


What kind of paint did you use on the windows vents? I thought about powdercoating the black areas. Will they come apart that far?

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by msgross

agreed, thanks for taking the extra time to document the process as you are...


What kind of paint did you use on the windows vents? I thought about powdercoating the black areas. Will they come apart that far?

Yes I think it can be taken far enough apart to powder coat
You would have remove the glass from its frame, powder coat it and the reinstall the glass

The biggest problem I see is the possible chipping of the powder coat when reassembly and the problems in touching up the powder coating.

I put a few layers of tape over the glass to protect it, and sandblasted the metal. Then I used self etching primer and then three coats of VHT (satin black) Epoxy Paint.

The reason I used self etching primer was because some of the parts painted where chromed and some stainless steel. The self etching primer was recommended for painting chrome and stainless steel.

Possibly epoxy primer could be used and what ever type of top coat you want.

Hope this helps you out

Bruce

[seba]

Hi Bruce, my name is Sebastian I'm from Argentina wanted to congratulate you for such a beautiful project, also by data input from origial since I'm in a similar project will leave a link so you see what I'm doing over here and again my congratulations hug
http://www.v8extremo.com.ar/forum/vi...e385886450836c

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by seba

Hi Bruce, my name is Sebastian I'm from Argentina wanted to congratulate you for such a beautiful project, also by data input from origial since I'm in a similar project will leave a link so you see what I'm doing over here and again my congratulations hug
http://www.v8extremo.com.ar/forum/vi...e385886450836c

Thank you Sebastian

I see where this is your first post on this forum (Welcome to the forum)

I went to your link and was unable to read the writing/language but the pictures show what you are doing and your progress very good

May your build exceed your expectations and be enjoyed for years to come

Enjoy your build

Bruce

[Bruce88]

As all the rework disappears as if it wasn’t needed at all
There are telltale signs if you compare it to stock

More filler and body panel work is in progress to bring them back to the point as if no rework was required or that can be seen by others. The body man works his magic to bring them back to a panel that could have come from the factory, some times better (smile).

The second coat of primer sealer has been applied to the cab and it’s looking good. The cab is almost ready for some color.







I’ve been a little lazy lately, there’s plenty of things I need to do on the build at my house, just need to get up and do them. But there has been some progress by others in the body and paint area of the build.

Enjoy your build

[mcbassin]

Your body shop is moving right along!

[my67chevytruck]

nice progress...

[VA72C10]

cab is looking GREAT! I vote for better than from the factory

[Bruce88]

As I was roaming around this forum the other day I found my self in the FAQ section
Found an idea/mod that I wanted to incorporate into the build, of course you would never find yourself doing that (smile)

The mod is a parking brake light (Parking brake indicator mod, easy project) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=425922

I was cleaning up the parking brake and since it’s not installed on the build it’s a lot easier to take some pictures of the mod. Thought you might be interested.

I made the bracket out of 16 gauge steel and the only thing that was not talked about in the FAQ post was that the bracket needed to be bent so that the switch would come in contact with the brake lever.

I’m also cleaning up the wiring harness and will be putting in the new 20 gauge wire splice up by the instrument connector as can be seen in the below picture. Note the splice could be placed any where along the (20 TAN 33) wire circuit. For me it just seemed to be the easiest place for me to put the splice.

You might be wondering why the brake warning light circuit goes thru the starting switch. It’s because when the switch is in the start position it gives the circuit a ground to test that the brake warning light is in working order.





Body and paint update

All the primary body and filler work is done on all the panels. It’s a good thing the body and paint shop is a good size with all the panels apart they take up a lot of space. Not just in one spot (smile).

The pictures are not the best with all the crowded space and not wanting to interrupt/interfere with the shop and trying to show what’s going on.





I’m working on cleaning up the cab wiring harness and will be adding a headlight warning buzzer to the harness. Ill show that mod in my next post.

Enjoy your build

[6772owner]

Man that is looking amazing, great build, cant wait to see more progress.

[y5mgisi]

Just love this build!

[chevy71c10]

Wow! Just found this build. What a great job on the truck. Can't wait to see more. Awesome touches on the truck throughout.

Justin

[Bruce88]

If it happens, you look for ways to help prevent it in the future
Leaving your headlights on and coming out to find a dead battery

I picked up a universal (Lights On Buzzer Kit) from NAPA # 782-1637

I didn’t like the fuse taps and alligator clips in the kit. I prefer to splice the wires into the wiring system. There are other universal buzzer kits out there and most of them are similar on how they work. They consist of two wires, buzzer, and a diode that prevents it from buzzing if power (+) is connected to the black wire and negative (-) to the red wire. You can test that the diode is working just touch the red wire to the positive terminal on the battery and the black wire to the negative terminal on the battery and it will buzz, then reverse the wires on the battery and it will not buzz.

There are many ways the buzzer could be installed in the wiring system as can be seen by the installation instructions in the below picture. I decided to splice into the headlight (14 LT BLU 10) wire at the fuse block and the oil pressure switch (20 DK BLU 31) wire at the fuse block (see below wiring diagram). Note not all of our trucks have the oil pressure warning light circuit.



Having the wiring harness out of the truck it was easy to find and identify the wires I wanted to splice into down at the fuse block Just used the double back tape in the buzzer kit to attach the buzzer to the side of the fuse block.



Some of the most common terminals & splices used are insulated (Red wire size 22-18, Blue wire size 16-14, and Yellow wire size 12-10). A friend of mine always wanted to barrow my aircraft quality crimping tools to get good quality crimps on his wiring work. The normal automotive crimping tools will work but there not as consistent in crimping. The aircraft quality crimping tools are very expensive but give good consistent crimps. We did find a crimpier that worked well and is reasonable in price, the Ratcheting Crimping Tool by Central Forge # 97420 at Harbor Freight. A tool you might want to consider if you’re doing some wiring.



More wire harness cleanup is required but the buzzer is installed

Enjoy your build