1987 GMC V1500 Sierra Classic LS swap/build

[NastyBuzzard]

The problem is that I cannot get power to the door lock switch and power window switch in the 2001 harness.

I pulled power from the window switch and got most of everything working but I can't run all 3 off one power source, something is up and I CANNOT FIND IT! It is driving me insane.


I did wire up the doors though and had the power windows rolling up and down as well as being able to lock the doors. It seems I can either choose to have the switch lock the door or unlock the door. The switch doesn't seem capable of doing both with the 2001 harness... I dont know how I am going to work that out.


I also straight wired the mirrors and had them working and playing with them..

I need to find out what is keeping power from going through my door harness for my lock and mirror switch.

[NastyBuzzard]

So instead of buying new relays and what not, because they are crazy expensive, I just bought another used fuse block for the interior that came with all the fuses and relays already on it.

Installed it and bam, I now have power to the power locks. Still nothing to the power window switch or the mirror itself though. No clue why, but it is driving me a little mad. I think I am just going to steal power from the door lock switch to power it and stop wasting time trying to find out why I don't have power to it.

[NastyBuzzard]

This is as close to factory mounting the 2001 PCMI can get for my 87. I was trying to tuck it farther in, like beside the radiator but it wouldn't work because I am running the wider radiator for the electric fans.

[MalibuSSwagon]

That is exactly how I mounted the PCM in my C10

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

That is exactly how I mounted the PCM in my C10

Yeah I really wanted to tuck it in some more to try and hide it. Only issue is, I don't know if I have the power steering high pressure line hooked up right or the right one because it keeps getting in the damn way. So that makes it a pain to put in a take out but once it is in it is good.

Next got to figure out how to permanently mount the radiator and electric fans. Fun stuff.

Still working away at the wiring.

[NastyBuzzard]

I got the wipers to move using the 01 wiring and switch! So that is something. Still haven't figured out how to get high and low settings at the same time yet. I can only get about medium and medium slow but I feel like it is wired wrong that way. Otherwise I can have full blast or just slow.

I also cannot get it to "return to park" yet. Where after you turn off the switch the wipers tuck back down.

Working away at it, it may take a greater mind than I have.

[NastyBuzzard]

So, it turns out that the 2001 wiper switch and the 87 wiper switch are just way too different.

I cannot find a way to power the pulse wiper module correctly, therefore I cannot get it to power the wiper motor correctly.

I can get the wipers to come on but that is all.

Now I need to find a different firewall mounted motor that already has a built in circuit board like the 2001 motor and see if I can retrofit it. Any ideas?

[NastyBuzzard]

Finally! I have the power door locks (unlock & lock), power windows, and power mirrors all working on the 91 door with the 2001 wiring harness!

Here is a video of it all working. Check it out!



Also, check out how many fuses I burned through TODAY in the last hour before I got it all working. That is about half of the ones I have burned up since starting on the doors.



I also got the doors on. Which is not easy to do by yourself.








Next I need to solder all my connections and wire shrink and clean them all up.

I also need to figure out how to tell the body control module/pcm that the doors are shut. The 01 has some type of sensor or something on the actuator that tells it doors are shut. I think, well I have to make that work with the little pins somehow in the door. I am struggling finding wiring diagrams for that stuff.

[NastyBuzzard]

Cleaning up the bed a little bed. I just need to find a passenger bed side with a fuel door. So freaking hard to find in South Carolina!!



This is the best shape ds bed side I could find as far as rust and dents...



Also, mocked up the exhaust today. I need to get it welded completely or remade completely. The welder I am borrowing isn't doing too good of a job plus the wire has some rust so I am getting no penetration. Just had to lay it on there. This ties into my previous exhaust setup.





I also put on the new poly body mounts today. I need two new front bolts, they had been on a rust diet.

One thing that I am really mad at myself for is that I cut open my floor pan for nothing. The DS rear body mount bolt wouldn't thread on for nothing. So I thought I had broke the weld and the nut was just spinning. So I cut open an access. WRONG!! The rear of the cab had just slid over about an 1/8" and I wasn't even threading into the nut. So mad at myself!

Also I removed my perfect headliner only to tear it b/c a screw got wrapped in the material when I was taking it out and ripped it!!

I NEED to figure out where to mount that dang evap canister box and hook up exhaust and I can put my bed back on and start putting it together.

I plan to "rhino" line the bed, any suggestions for a good DIY kit?

[silverbear]

Al's Liner is pretty good and reasonably priced. It is available at some retailers or on Amazon.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by silverbear

Al's Liner is pretty good and reasonably priced. It is available at some retailers or on Amazon.

I will look into it for sure. Thanks.

[NastyBuzzard]

So ready to have this back road worthy. I miss driving her so much.





I cant find a DS bedside for a reasonable price in S.C. so I just bent out my old one and threw it back on.






For the 20 gal tank, how does the filler neck hose come from it? Is it just a hose or a hose/tube/hose like the 12 gallon ones? I have one from an old 20 gal tank and it is just a short hose with a 90.

Also what size bolts go to the front driveshaft to attach it to the np241 t case?

The truck will be assemble and drove to work out kinks before paint so i don't mess up paint making adjustments or fixing anything so I apologize she is ugly for now.

[NastyBuzzard]

So I dissected a 80s column and a 99-06 column. I need to combine the two to make one, these are two of my spares.

Originally I was just going to roll with how I had it hooked up previously but that would leave a gaping hole in the firewall and not look real clean, so now I want to try this, 99-06 on the inside and 87 under the hood.

[NorCalAnthony]

Holy smokes you are way more courageous when it comes to modifying stuff than I ever will be lol. The truck and everything you're doing is turning out great so far though

[NastyBuzzard]

Courageous may be a strong word.... I have quite a few spare parts If these were the only ones I had I would be a lot more careful!! Thanks a million though!

Honestly though after I tidy up the wiring, finish up my makeshift exhaust and mount this column how I like she will be hitting the road for the first time in over a year.

After I go for a little spin again, my motivation will skyrocket again like it did when I first got it "moveable."

I really want to be driving this truck during the winter, like every day I can afford to.

Glad to see some people are still watching this thread though.

[NastyBuzzard]

I finally got the courage to cut a giant 2" hole in my beautiful floor pans... I had to do this for the shifter cable.



I also got the welding done for the steering column which is now mounted where I want it and is working great.



I also got the exhaust all hooked up and ran through my flowmaster muffler that I originally had put on after I bought the truck 12 years ago. So that is nice to be able to fire her up not on straight manifolds.

I also backed the truck out of the shop to get it some sun light!









I could be driving the truck around the yard if I could only hook up the speed sensor wiring!! ARGH! There is like a transfer case harness that is supposed to plug somewhere in the trans wiring harness but for the life of me I could not find where! So once that happens and I can have more gears than first I will be putting around the yard and dirt road!

Something's I need to know:
- How to wire up electric speed sensor using 91 NP241 Tcase
- Where to find new filler neck hoses for a PS 20 gallon saddle tank
- What size bolts attach front drive shaft to the NP241 Tcase
- Anyone know where I can find some Uniroyal Laredo M/T tires to match my rears?
- How I can wire the doors so that the 01 BCM knows the doors are shut


I am sure there is more but that is all I can think of at the moment.

So pumped to drive it around without have to worry about any issues.

I have emptied the shop of everything that doesn't relate to this build and put it right in front of the door so I can get her road ready!

[silverbear]

LMC Truck has the gas filler hoses you need. They list a LH and a RH but don't distinguish between the 16 and 20 gallon tank. I believe the 16 gallon use the same hoses as the 20 gallon.

Looking good. I applaud your work on this truck.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by silverbear

LMC Truck has the gas filler hoses you need. They list a LH and a RH but don't distinguish between the 16 and 20 gallon tank. I believe the 16 gallon use the same hoses as the 20 gallon.

Looking good. I applaud your work on this truck.

Thank you for the compliment. It is very appreciated. It still has a ways to go, she may look a little ugly for a little while but hopefully she will drive excellent!

I checked LMC and only saw the ones for 16 gallon. I have my original hose/setup from my 87 16 gal tanks, it won't work. They have a metal elbow that extends the hose back about 8" or so to reach the fuel door.

I also have a used filler neck that came with a early 80s model 20 gal tank I used to prototype with. It has just a rubber hose that comes off the tank about 2" then 90deg up to the fuel door. The one I have is hard as a rock and dry rotted so I need a replacement. I also need the other smaller breather/vent hose.

I should have taken pictures.

[silverbear]

If you look at my build thread...I understand ugly and I embrace it. I would rather it be functional that pretty. No don't get me wrong I will one day get mine painted and I would love to have a good looking function truck but the cosmetics come last.

Sorry to give you inaccurate info. I too was trying to go off of memory on how my original PS tank was set up and looking at what pics I have (only drivers side of current set up) don't tell enough story. I had a bed set up for dual tanks with both filler hoses but did not have the PS tank or switch. I scrapped the original bed because it was too far gone with rust and I stayed with just the DS tank. Maybe someone can post a picture of the PS 20 gallon set they have to guide you on how to proceed.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by silverbear

If you look at my build thread...I understand ugly and I embrace it. I would rather it be functional that pretty. No don't get me wrong I will one day get mine painted and I would love to have a good looking function truck but the cosmetics come last.

Sorry to give you inaccurate info. I too was trying to go off of memory on how my original PS tank was set up and looking at what pics I have (only drivers side of current set up) don't tell enough story. I had a bed set up for dual tanks with both filler hoses but did not have the PS tank or switch. I scrapped the original bed because it was too far gone with rust and I stayed with just the DS tank. Maybe someone can post a picture of the PS 20 gallon set they have to guide you on how to proceed.

I too will one day to body work/paint and all that but it will be when the rest is done. In the past I have painted projects before they were finished and then when I worked on them I damaged the paint. Never again!

No problem! Yeah hopefully someone else will chime in, only other route I know is to take the hose I have and try and match it to a radiator hose a part store and cut what I need.

[NorCalAnthony]

Does this look like the hose you need?

http://www.fillernecksupply.com/chev...l-filler-hose/

For the VSS I'm pretty sure you can just splice the the '91 wires in to the newer harness... You'll also need a momentary switch that'll let the PCM know you're in 4LO. I've seen some guys just wire a toggle switch in the dash but the cleaner way to do it is add the switch to the T-Case shifter like this guy did:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthr...71#post3522371

I have no idea how to get the BCM to recognize the doors though...

[NastyBuzzard]

NorCal it does look like the one I need but holy moly, that is expensive for like 10" of hose with a 90 on it. I also need the filler vent hose.


I really like the idea for the switch on the shifter!

[NorCalAnthony]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

NorCal it does look like the one I need but holy moly, that is expensive for like 10" of hose with a 90 on it. I also need the filler vent hose.


I really like the idea for the switch on the shifter!

Yeah I was really surprised when I saw the price too but there aren't a whole lot of options out there for them either... I googled K20 filler hose and came up with part# 14000286 that looks just like the one in that other link so you might try to hunt one down that way.

Have you checked LMC yet? It looks like they have everything you need (filler and vent hose) but it's not a whole lot cheaper...
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/CC/full.aspx?page=49

[NastyBuzzard]

It is looking like LMC is my best bet, I just need to call them I guess and make sure I am ordering the correct parts.

I am so ready to get back in the shop and work on my truck but cannot find the time!

[NastyBuzzard]

So I have a question, mostly because I came across this in someone elses thread that was using a 4L60E & passenger side drop NP241 transfer case.

They had to buy and use this adapter, #15005474. I understand that the 2001 adapter wont work, but I used the adapter from my 700R4 and I think I did end up with less driveshaft engagement than normal but I wasn't sure. I asked about it on here but it was never answered. So I will ask again to be 100% sure.

01 on bottom and 87 on top.



87 right and 01 left



This is the amount of penetration I am getting. The wear on the driveshaft is of course where it used to stick into the tcase.



Only getting 3-1/8" of penetration.



I have read that the #15005474 is 5" long/deep so I am not sure how it compares to the other adapters I have.

Any insight, I don't want to run this and have issues or break anything prematurely.