Wife's 48

[8man]

Jan and Tempest,

Here are 4 pictures of the front runner system.

On the first one I've marked what needs to be done to the inlet.
IMG_0415 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
The second one shows the clearance between the front of the water pump and the radiator. I have not checked the fan yet, but I think it fits. I'll do that next.
IMG_0416 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
IMG_0417 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The two holes on the bottom right of the bracket are for the tensioner.
IMG_0418 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The GM type 2 power steering pump and canister are not installed yet, I just got it today and need the pulley on it before it goes on.

Also, the tensioner is not on until I get the radiator modified.

[Tempest67]

looks really good, thanks for the pics.

I am looking at your motor mounts, can the motor slide back a bit more?...it looks like the bolts are in the middle of the slots?......maybe room for a mechanical fan? Yes? No ? .....not in your plan?


I have to get my lower rad outlet moved as well, just not sure what direction? down? or out ? or down and out?.... will be a final assembly decision

[8man]

I pushed the motor as far forward as it would go and then centered the tail of the tranny. That moved the mounts a little, so yes it would go back some, maybe 1/2 the bolt hole in the mount. I am going electric on the fan.

[oldman3]

Robert, nice set-up looks great...Jim

[8man]

Thanks Jim.

My Dad always says "rather lucky than smart." Well I embody that statement, this time.

I test fit the electric fan and it clears just fine. I also built a charcoal canister as described by another member and built the bracket to hold it today.

Other than that I was messing with the drive line angles. I am at 3.4 degrees down at the tranny shaft and 3.6 degrees up at the rear axle. I'm hoping that I got luck on this and it will work as well.

[dsraven]

excuse me......if youire gonna keep posting pics of a pristine shop.....then umm....haha
nice job. if you find the drive line shudders under hard load (taking off usually) it could be the angle on the pinion is increasing because the springs are wrapping up some and allowing the pinion angle to increase. if that is the case you can easily fab a traction bar set up from the axle to the spring mount area. under hard load the axle will turn up at the front as the springs flex.

problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54_6GaYJvWI

easy fix
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/traction-bars.html

[8man]

Sorry Raven, I have the OCD and usually spend almost as much time putting things away as I do working. I also have the "old timers" and if I don't put it up I don't know where it is.

Thanks for noticing. I've only had the shop a couple of years and only been able to get in it regularly over the last year. I do like it!

[oldman3]

Robert, can you show us the charcoal cansiter you built, or did I miss it earlier...Jim

[olcarguy]

Originally Posted by 8man

Sorry Raven, I have the OCD and usually spend almost as much time putting things away as I do working. I also have the "old timers" and if I don't put it up I don't know where it is.

nice job...and yes your shop is clean...only time my shop was that clean was after it was built and before I put my tools in...ever want to spend a week come on over.

[8man]

Jim, I'm not ignoring you, I'm having trouble uploading the pictures. Once it gets worked out I'll post the charcoal canister.

Olcarguy, I'd help clean your shop, but it's too cold there for me to work.

[oldman3]

[QUOTE=8man;8669195]Jim, I'm not ignoring you, I'm having trouble uploading the pictures. Once it gets worked out I'll post the charcoal canister.

No problem I got time...Jim

[olcarguy]

Olcarguy, I'd help clean your shop, but it's too cold there for me to work.[/QUOTE]

8man.....Not to cold right now only -20 ... when it gets to -50 I stay inside....lol

[8man]

Olcarguy, -20! When it gets below +50 it's too cold!

Jim,

I used the items in this picture. The PVC pieces and the barb fitting from Home Depot and the Charcoal and filter from Petco.
IMG_0420 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I built a bracket to bolt it to the frame under the crossmember that holds the bed, right behind the stock fuel tank in the S10.
IMG_0423 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I put the large plug in the PVC fitting and cut a piece of the filter, and pushed it into the PVC fitting from the back side. Then I put the barbed fitting in the other plug, cut some more filter and pushed it in from the back side. Then I poured some of the charcoal into the fitting and then pushed the plug with the barbed fitting into the PVC fitting. I didn't glue it together as it seems to be tight enough to stay together. I'll bolt it in place with the bracket and when I get running we'll see how it works.

[olcarguy]

50+ it's time to go swimming.....

[8man]

A buddy and his 34 year old son were looking at the door hinges with me. The son noticed that the pins had no "pin" to hold the door pins in. I even talked about having to use a bare hacksaw blade to cut one off to get it out of the 54.

So junior says "why don't you drill the pins and put a crush pin in there to make sure they don't ever work their way out."

I said, if you want to try that go ahead, I couldn't drill a little hole in that pin by hand if I had to.

So he got a cordless drill, held the hinge in his hand and in about 5 minutes he had this...
IMG_0425 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So I told him to "go on and do the rest." He did.

[joedoh]

HAHA thats great, always a good thing to have someone else excited about your stuff.

[NorCalGal]

Originally Posted by 8man

A buddy and his 34 year old son were looking at the door hinges with me. The son noticed that the pins had no "pin" to hold the door pins in. I even talked about having to use a bare hacksaw blade to cut one off to get it out of the 54.

So junior says "why don't you drill the pins and put a crush pin in there to make sure they don't ever work their way out."

I said, if you want to try that go ahead, I couldn't drill a little hole in that pin by hand if I had to.

So he got a cordless drill, held the hinge in his hand and in about 5 minutes he had this...
IMG_0425 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So I told him to "go on and do the rest." He did.

That looks good, I was lazy and just welded a blob to the pin to stop it.

[8man]

Jan and Joe, you are so right. It was fun to watch him and he did a good job. I'd have broke every little drill bit I tried to use doing that freehand!

[8man]

Well, last night my ADD acted up and I pulled out the stainless trim rings for the doors out. I know I'm a long way from trim, but I didn't feel like doing much and they were almost shiny...

IMG_0428 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
First had to get the paint off of the outside ones. PO painted them! Then I worked on all them with some 1500 grit and a Scotch bright to make them look a little better.

1. I am looking for someone who polishes stainless. I knew a guy who did stainless steel repair and polishing, but he is not around anymore.

2. Does anyone have a "how to" install them. It appears I'll need to drill holes for the inside trim to hold it in place, but how do you get it inside the lip of the door?

[joedoh]

if you have a cardboard freight or a northern tool store near you go pick up a drill mounted buffing wheel and some jewlers rouge, the white is the finest and the red is the roughest, so if you have scratches start with red and then move to white. you put the buffing wheel into the rouge at speed and then onto the work piece.

for install, the holes already exist, the stainless pieces replace the painted ones on the door. you need 1 1/4 long countersunk screws to mount them if I remember.

the outside ones you have to take the window felts out if you havent already, then they go over the edge on the door from the bottom to the top. you have to take a wood dowel like a broom handle and tap the dowel against the stainless trim to get it fully seated in the corners, then that overlap will actually overlap correctly and there are small set screws to hold them in place. I usually just use a pan head drill tip and screw it in, the baby clutch heads arent worth messing with and the pan head doesnt interfere with the window felt install.

[Tempest67]

I purchased a cheap Grinding wheel, put a buffing pad on each end, and used the white first on 1 pad, then finished with the green rouge on the other pad. (this worked for me)

This was one of the best DIY projects that I did, the results were great, and the process was relatively easy, and cheap. I would fill up the buffing wheel with the appropriate rouge (my left side pad was for white, and the right side pad was for green, and don't mix them up) and away I went

I did the rocker panel moldings, wheel well moldings, front and rear window moldings, belt line trim and other than some deep scratches, all the pieces came out looking great.

Couple of things to remember,

1. DO NOT Push hard, let the rouge and pad do the work

2. take your time, and always be aware of the direction the buffing pad is spinning, as you do not want the pad to 'catch' an edge of the trim, have the pad spin off the trim

3. if possible, do this outside, as a fine black dust is produced , so wear a dust mask.

4. and last, but not least,...always wear gloves....if the wheel happens to catch an edge, the trim will slice your hands to ribbons.


Not trying to scare you, but just be careful, and you will get amazing results.


here is a pic I found of a finished wheel well piece, when I started, it looked like it was covered with silver paint

[8man]

Thanks guys! I'll give it a whirl.

[reaper71]

Hey Robert, just finished going through the build.
Everything is looking great!
I also borrowed your charcoal canister idea for my truck.



Mark

[8man]

Thanks Mark.

I found the charcoal canister on this site in another thread, so it's NOT an original idea, but it sure was easy!

[HAULIN' IT]

Originally Posted by 8man

Haulin', I thought about it, but wasn't sure how to attach the screws to the back of the cab. I don't know how to weld them on like they did to the back of the plate. Any ideas on that? I have another cab and would like to add a 3rd brake light to it when I get back on it.

Sorry, I missed the question & just happened on it while checking up on your build. Lookin' Good!
As to how to deal with the studs. Here's my thought. As I mentioned, use the plate provided as a template to cut the slot in the cab. Then use Fusor, 3M, ect. metal adhesive to attach that part to the inside of the cab. You would then need to thin down the lamp where it would contact the cab to let the lens protrude thought the extra thickness, but other than that...you would be all done, no welding, no filler, ect. My Two Cents, Lorne