Restoring Rusty

[Jeramy]

3m 08001. comes in a tube like rtv silicone. is yellow and slimy looking but once sticks is stuck. commonly referred to as gorilla snot around my area.

they also make it in black if you don't want yellow part number 08008

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jeramy

3m 08001. comes in a tube like rtv silicone. is yellow and slimy looking but once sticks is stuck. commonly referred to as gorilla snot around my area.

they also make it in black if you don't want yellow part number 08008

thank's bud, I did see that one at Pep Boys, but I didn't get it cause I didn't know if the black was the same strength as the yellow (you never know with these things) or how much I would actually need to do both sides of the cab

anywho, it is worth noting that the yellow stuff (part # 08002) comes in a 2 oz tube and costs about the same as the black stuff which comes in a 1 oz tube (part # 03602)

also notice all the ways on the right Permatex got in the game too with their Super Weatherstrip Adhesive looks like its about half the cost of the 3M (pronounced: stay away from it, cause I bet its half as good)

now I aint splitting hairs here folks I am just trying to give you a report from the field, as it is a jungle out there, so wear a hat and sun block, hee hee and don't jump in the pool until 2 hours after you ate (any of youz old enuff to recall that nonsense) any of you still tell yer kidz that, ha ha

[Gregski]

so then it was time to excavate the old weather strip off of the driver side, it too had the optional (not available till 78) rubber on the door itself - I am not going to install that one unless absolutely necessary "I want to keep the stock as original as possible" [ahem] pronounced I'm cheap! ha ha

hey did I just quote myself, whoa that's deep

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so then it was time to excavate the old weather strip off of the driver side, it too had the optional (not available till 78) rubber on the door itself - I am not going to install that one unless absolutely necessary "I want to keep the stock as original as possible" [ahem] pronounced I'm cheap! ha ha

hey did I just quote myself, whoa that's deep

Actually the weatherstrip on the doors was used on all years. It came standard on Silverados only. Why you ask, because Silverados are/were special . One possible reason yours might have them is they were installed at the dealership. We used to install them post warranty for wind noise issues. Back in the day they were a cheap fix, a few dollars a piece from GM Parts Div.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Titomars

Actually the weatherstrip on the doors was used on all years. It came standard on Silverados only. Why you ask, because Silverados are/were special . One possible reason yours might have them is they were installed at the dealership. We used to install them post warranty for wind noise issues. Back in the day they were a cheap fix, a few dollars a piece from GM Parts Div.

So drove the truck in to work today for the first time since installing the door weatherstripping and there is a hissing sound coming from the passenger side door dang it. I hope I can fix it by aligning the door proper as it does sag even with the brand new pins and bushings. I really don't want to install the optional rubber strips on the door if I aint got to, know what I'm sayin' especially since the driver side door don't hiss.

[Jeramy]

sorry part numbers i gave you were for the 5 oz tubes. seriously doubt you would need that much.

[Gregski]

i was a little taken back by how long the door weather strips are, they are about 13 feet each, wow

[Gregski]

and just a pic of the old Gorilla snot on the floor after stripping it off the driver's side

[Gregski]

I must say I am very please with the quality and fitment of these parts, Classic Parts does it again, I liked their rear window seal very much, and now they are 2 for 2 with the door weatherstrips as well

[Gregski]

did I mention the wife is gone for the weekend on an all girls camping trip, well on with the show than, what's next

and the next patient is Steering..., Mr. Manuel Steering

[Gregski]

and after a little belly rub we get our money shot, that's right folks The Greg is a Parts Numbers Junkie - PNJ

and a quick AltaVista search for 5698180 (yeah remember that site) reveals this there box is a box formely known as Saginaw - nice

[Gregski]

now let's check out that Pitbull Arm

I bought it with the pitman arm because I recon there is a difference between the manual and the power arms

[Gregski]

then it was time to make a mess - we tore into it because it sounded like it had square bearings inside, something wasn't right

TOP TIP: to get that three bolt cover off, don't tap it with a hammer or pull on it (I'm just sayin') unscrew the middle screw with a flat screw driver and watch it come off

[Gregski]

a better look inside after cleaning it up a bit with some paper towels

I am in awe of this simple yet effective engineering, ah the good ol' days

[harley87ta]

Originally Posted by Gregski

a better look inside after cleaning it up a bit with some paper towels

I am in awe of this simple yet effective engineering, ah the good ol' days

Nice and simple the way it should be. I'm digging the S logo on the case.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by harley87ta

Nice and simple the way it should be. I'm digging the S logo on the case.

Yes I believe the S is for Strong, as in, you must be Strong to drive a manual steering truck, or is it S for Stupid... ha ha

[Gregski]

getting the two big nuts off was a major P.I.A. I won't lie to you, after my adjustable wrench got me no where I had to go out and buy a 1 5/16 socket and use a 5 foot long cheater bar on it to loosen the pitman arm nut, jeez

than I had to use a puller to get the pitman arm off

Fun Level = 2.7

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by Gregski

getting the two big nuts off was a major P.I.A. I won't lie to you, after my adjustable wrench got me no where I had to go out and buy a 1 5/16 socket and use a 5 foot long cheater bar on it to loosen the pitman arm nut, jeez

than I had to use a puller to get the pitman arm off

Fun Level = 2.7

Heat is your friend with pitman arms. even a hand held propane torch helps greatly.

[Gregski]

but we persevered and got that pitman arm shaft out and even managed to clean it up a bit

[Gregski]

getting the worm gear out was no picnic either, but got it out too

I think this is where we first spotted to completely busted up bearing, it was shattered

Mess Level = 11.5

[Gregski]

couldn't get to the third flat screw this way, so realized the rag joint has to come off to fully slide it out - even the rag joint needed a puller to git off

[Gregski]

getting there, this is the last pic for the night, but I did take the ball bearings out of that thing that sits on the warm gear, and hopefully I didn't loose none

[Gregski]

... oh oh, the wife just pulled in the driveway, time to vacuum the house...

[rusty76]

Manual steering. I'm in big time. I've been considering it too for my old rag. I've got my reasons. Lol. It's funny to me but my truck has manual brakes. Everybody wants power brakes. Honestly I never cared for power brakes. My old 74 had power brakes and I never really cared for it. I'm a bird of a different feather.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by rusty76

Manual steering. I'm in big time. I've been considering it too for my old rag. I've got my reasons. Lol. It's funny to me but my truck has manual brakes. Everybody wants power brakes. Honestly I never cared for power brakes. My old 74 had power brakes and I never really cared for it. I'm a bird of a different feather.

Well, I do agree with you on manual brakes. Those in my base C10 work surprisingly well, and they are only 2" wide rear shoes and 1" front rotors.

I will admit that the rear has new riveted shoes, finned drums, and wheel cylinders. Even springs and most of the hardware is new. All I did to the front was replace the nearly worn-out pads with some mid-level pads from O'Reilly Auto. Someday I'll probably get loaded calipers with Wagner Thermo Quiet pads and have the rotors turned.