What did you do with your truck today, Part 3

[la hi]

Did the LMC truck show come off last weekend? Or did it get rained out? Or send some pictures please if they pulled it off.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by mick53

I think it's a little less than 8". I haven't measured it exact yet. When it was being engineered that was a big concern. That was a big factor with getting a $7000 billet crank. They also went with big block oil seal and specs. I have really good people in the industry working on this and my engineers looking over the results. I'm 2.5 years into this project and hope to start working on the truck soon.

The good news is, it will be properly balanced I am sure, and it's just a rotational load with only the belt and timing link to the cam (chain, I presume) providing a side load, countering gravity. I'm guessing it's also about the mass of a torque converter that would be hanging on the other end of the crank if it's an automatic. (...and the converter would not be balanced as well, what with the fluid sloshing around in it.)

[idbeast]

Got a picture of my 56 that someone took to promote a car show!

[MiraclePieCo]

My Dolphin quad gauges have all read low since installation: Temp 140, oil pressure 25 psi. I assumed it was because I'd used sealant on the threads which inhibited the grounds. Today I installed a new oil pressure sensor without sealant and my pressure jumped up to 55 pounds. Since I used the shotgun approach I'm not sure if the problem was the sensor or the ground, but I'm just happy it's fixed.

Next stop, the temp sender.

[sshamu]

The rear transmission seal on my 4 speed SM420 has bee weeping the past few weeks so I decided to get busy and eliminate it. I hit up O'reilly's for their Fel-Pro TS 5100 gasket set. I wasn't sure of the rear seal number so I ordered my seal from Jim Carter Truck parts. The CR Seals number is CR 22340.

My yoke had some slight wear from the old seal so I had it polished and my favorite driveline shop. Now that you know the gasket set # and seal hopefully this helps someone out.
Cheers, Chuck

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by sshamu

The rear transmission seal on my 4 speed SM420 has bee weeping the past few weeks so I decided to get busy and eliminate it. I hit up O'reilly's for their Fel-Pro TS 5100 gasket set. I wasn't sure of the rear seal number so I ordered my seal from Jim Carter Truck parts. The CR Seals number is CR 22340.

My yoke had some slight wear from the old seal so I had it polished and my favorite driveline shop. Now that you know the gasket set # and seal hopefully this helps someone out.
Cheers, Chuck

Cool, thanks! Did O'Reilly's have that in stock or did they have to order it?

[bennylava]

I wondered about it. Like how much it's going to cost for a decent paint job, converting it to an LS 5.3L engine/trans, putting a good bag system on it (while not lowering it but gaining ride comfort), and completely refurbishing the interior. Oh and a decent sound system as well.

I wondered about the total cost of doing all that.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by DransportGarage

The good news is, it will be properly balanced I am sure, and it's just a rotational load with only the belt and timing link to the cam (chain, I presume) providing a side load, countering gravity. I'm guessing it's also about the mass of a torque converter that would be hanging on the other end of the crank if it's an automatic. (...and the converter would not be balanced as well, what with the fluid sloshing around in it.)

I'm running a TKO 600 5 speed. My blower and 5 stage dry sump oil pump are on opposite sides of the engine so that may help a little. Also a duel disk SFI clutch that is well balanced.

[sshamu]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

Cool, thanks! Did O'Reilly's have that in stock or did they have to order it?

On-line order said 2 days but I called them and they had it the next AM.

[oldman3]

Actually did this yesterday. I disassembled my steering column to make a few changes. My ignition lock cylinder was sticking, when you cranked to start, and I had to pull back each time. So I replaced with a new one. While it was apart my turn signal arm was hard to push down for left turn. Found out the little arm that attaches it to the signal switch was dirty and not moving freely. So I cleaned it up and add grease to the end that fits to outer arm. Should note that my dimmer switch for lights is on the column and this is part of all that. Here's a pic of arm I had to clean. https://www.millsupply.com/actuator-...5.php?p=322761 ...Jim

[Russell Ashley]

I removed my steering column yesterday and took the gauge cluster out today. I got a new Ididit chrome column to install but want to fix my speedometer while the column is out of the way. I was hoping to repair it but the tenths indicator wheel is broken so it's not easily repairable. I need one so if anyone has a good one that they want to sell let me know. Felt good to do something as this is about the first time I've done anything to it myself since cancer hit me about six years ago. I use the term "Hit" as it knocked me on my rear and I'm just now getting to where I feel like doing something. BTW, I got the column from Scotts. Probably not the cheapest but it was one-stop shopping for the column and the other items I'll need to install it.

[mick53]

I worked another 3 hours on the thermostat housing. I finished the heavy grinding and started the smoothin process. This piece is no fun. Also dropped the damper off at the racecar machinist to have spacers made and checked on the machinist doing the water pump. It should be done tomorrow.

[evilokc]

thought my fender install was a wrap tonight but before I did the final tightening I looked over all my work to make sure I hadn't overlooked anything and I had. I found two things I didn't like. when I installed the fender I wasn't paying enough attention to the lines that run over the frame rail. they should be under the inner fender but the way I installed it the inner fender pushed them in almost touching the header. those have to be fished under the fender. the wiring harness goes between the core support and the inner fender in stamped in grooves. when I installed It I didn't get the harness in the groove I meant to. it works but doesn't tuck as nice. tomorrow I will correct both of these issues.

[mick53]

I picked up my water pump from the machine shop today. They turned the heater hose mount down to 3/4" to accept the A/N compression fitting. This is done by turning the cutter on a boring head backwards and running the mill in reverse. The problem is holding the pump solid enough to do this. I didn't want to disassemble it. They made a special jig for the job. One outlet is for the heater and the other for the drag radiator. I had to shorten the neck on the fitting to get enough for the collar to compress. This fitting is rated at 250 PSI but I'm running waterless coolant so there will be no pressure in the system. I spent some time working on the thermostat housing also.

[Marty68]

I drove my truck friday!... however the threaded rod bent in a u shape (that way when I bought it) apparently bound up. It broke leaving me with no way to release clutch. After dropping some home brew bottles off at my friends I got him to push start me in 4th gear. Made it home. Then I replaced threadedrod with this.

[dsraven]

by the pic it looks like the threaded rod was waaay outta alignment and set up for failure.
improvise, it's what we do. lol.

[Marty68]

Originally Posted by dsraven

by the pic it looks like the threaded rod was waaay outta alignment and set up for failure.
improvise, it's what we do. lol.

It was probably ok. Before we raised engine 2" for MII crossmember. I am kind of proud of the "hook" I made, adjustable and alignment correcting.
Next project lower rear bumper an incn to show more licensing plate better.
Then brew beer.
Then make mustang shifter fit s10 trans. To gain shifter stops and less ugly shift arm.

[MiraclePieCo]

On a recent drive it was obvious that my truck didn't have its usual power. Checking the throttle blades I could see that they weren't opening fully. I had added layers of jute, rubber mat and carpeted floor mats beneath the pedal, thus preventing full throttle actuation. A simple cable adjustment got things back to spec.

[mikebte]

Installed halogen headlight in the 59'
Was driving it a lot this winter and the front lights kept moving around and not holding in place so I opted to just change them all while I was replacing the adjuster parts.
Some day I'll restore this thing.


As per usual I documented it
https://youtu.be/zeAQB3K6sPM

[nvrdone]

so since im off work because of the corona virus, I started changing my brakes over to a power / dual circuit setup. so far the lines, m/c & booster are in. all the shoes, springs & wheel cylinders have been replaced. now on to bleeding the system. hope it works out. we shall see.

[mikebte]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

so since im off work because of the corona virus, I started changing my brakes over to a power / dual circuit setup. so far the lines, m/c & booster are in. all the shoes, springs & wheel cylinders have been replaced. now on to bleeding the system. hope it works out. we shall see.

Kind of sad that this is what it takes for us to have the time to enjoy a hobby. I have not been able to touch my truck for 8 months and BAM I suddenly have time to use that pile of parts in the garage.

[dsraven]

If doing the master on the frame you may need residual valves too.

[nvrdone]

sorry - missed the residual valves. yes, I have them in front & rear lines.
whoops. I didn't identify what im working on.
its a '49 AD with a built 327, m21 4 spd, 12 bolt with 3:55's, and a 3" dropped front axle from Sid's.
bought it in 1973 for $235.00

[dsraven]

Nice buy.
Just thought I would mention those res valves so you could plumb them before you finished up.

[nvrdone]

ya, I bought it for $235.00 but it didn't have the 327, 4 speed or any of the other stuff ive added over the years. but at least it didn't have any rust.