What did you do with your truck today, Part 3

[Black_Sheep]

Bath time and some cruising, it hasn’t been out of the garage since October...

[mick53]

I didn't get any work done but I ordered A Gates regular quality 8 rib K style mini V-belt for mock up and sizing. From McMaster Carr I ordered some stainless steel countersunk hex bolts for the water pump and an 82 degree spiral cut countersink bit for the mill. Also a 3'/8" to 5/16" bushing for the alternator. I'm not sure where my blower belt ends up but the bolt heads sticking out of the water pump pulley would possibly impede on that plane. I contacted the pulley company and found out it has a type 3 anodizing. I called a local anodizing shop about stripping and recoating it black when I get done messing it up. They also said it wont damage my tooling. I contacted the acoustic glass manufacturer to find out where to send the patterns so they can make my glass. Just a normal do nothing day. One off is so much fun. I think probably most people don't realize how much time is spent on this stuff. Be polite and beg if necessary and most people are quite helpful. Thank you for your time.

[evilokc]

put the front and side hood emblems on. it was a mess. i fabricated some new mounting straps to replace the bent up originals. looks good now

[mick53]

I received my belt and practiced my grooving technique some more yesterday. I'm feeling more confident now. Hopefully my bolts and countersink come today. I also got my bushing for the alternator. The water pump bolt is 5/16" and the alternator bolt is 3/8".

[DransportGarage]

Don't leave the peaks so sharp that they cut your belt.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by DransportGarage

Don't leave the peaks so sharp that they cut your belt.

I understand. I'm just trying to build a little confidence before messing with the expensive pulley. Thanks.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by mick53

I understand. I'm just trying to build a little confidence before messing with the expensive pulley. Thanks.

Yeah. Don't pay too much attention to me. I'm just writing stuff that I'd be sayin' if I was standing at the lathe with you...

[mick53]

Originally Posted by DransportGarage

Yeah. Don't pay too much attention to me. I'm just writing stuff that I'd be sayin' if I was standing at the lathe with you...

All input is greatly appreciated.

[idbeast]

Mick53 here is what you need.

[mick53]

The water pump pulley I'm adapting I believe is for a reverse rotation Ford application. The hole for the shaft is 3/4" on the spacer with countersink and 5/8" on the water pump so I made this adapter.

[evilokc]

im working on getting my cab sealed up. slow and steady. i have a nice firewall cover to put in but i need to get some hush mat installed first

[oldstrk]

Getting some satin clear on

[NorCalGal]

Originally Posted by oldstrk

Getting some satin clear on

I like the matte clear over patina, never understood why one would put high gloss over patina. Just my opinion though.

[mick53]

I have been working on my water pump pulley. I started cutting the grooves and it did not go well. I had a really hard time cutting the first groove and stopped before I messed it up. I worked on the front and let the problem stew in my little brain. I was ready to take it in when it occurred to me That the tool may be dragging on the pulley due to not enough relief cut on the tool. I will have to set it back up and take a look at it. I think it may have worked on the test piece due to the smaller diameter. Still rolling that around in my little brain. I countersunk the new bolts in the front of the pulley so they didn't project into the blower belt plane. There are 8 holes (2 bolt patterns) so I had to fill them all up. I cut .300" off the stainless steel bolts and chamfered them because I'm a civilized man. My lathe is super cool for cutting bolts. Of course I had to sand and polish them for aerodynamic reasons. I still need to take about .040" off the pulley spacer. I'll do that last. I may try to make a new tool and try to complete the grooving or puss out and take it in. Thank you for your time.

[mr48chev]

Dang that sure outdoes my measuring some doors to see where I am going to cut them to take two and make a longer one.

The wind is blowing so hard here that is a pain to try to do anything outside today.

[idbeast]

mick53 if your tool height is correct, it looks like it is more of a speed issue, 2024 cuts differently then 7075. I do this 8 hours a day 5-7 days a week.
Jim W

[mick53]

Originally Posted by idbeast

mick53 if your tool height is correct, it looks like it is more of a speed issue, 2024 cuts differently then 7075. I do this 8 hours a day 5-7 days a week.
Jim W

I thought this was 6061 that I also know nothing about. The test piece I did was 6061. Should I call ID Designs and find out for sure what it's made of? When I did the countersink it seemed to cut fine. ?. My tool is also kinda Mickey mouse. This pulley diameter is 5.90". What spindle speed do I need?

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by mick53

I thought this was 6061 that I also know nothing about. The test piece I did was 6061. Should I call ID Designs and find out for sure what it's made of? When I did the countersink it seemed to cut fine. ?. My tool is also kinda Mickey mouse. This pulley diameter is 5.90". What spindle speed do I need?

I would call them and find out, as it does make a difference. 6061 with a carbide cutter at 5.90Dia would be 1826rpm
if using high speed steel it would be 324-388rpm
Jim W

[mick53]

Originally Posted by idbeast

I would call them and find out, as it does make a difference. 6061 with a carbide cutter at 5.90Dia would be 1826rpm
if using high speed steel it would be 324-388rpm
Jim W

Thanks I'll call them tomorrow. Meanwhile I will try to make a better tool.

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by mick53

Thanks I'll call them tomorrow. Meanwhile I will try to make a better tool.

By the way, you are doing some very nice work!
Jim W

[nvrdone]

trying to identify the 12 bolt truck rear axle thats in my '49. I know there should be an id number on the axle tube behind the right rear wheel but 70 + years of grease and crap and i cant find it. wire wheel doesnt cut it. may have to take the axle out and media blast it. all this to figure out what drum brakes i have in the rear.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

trying to identify the 12 bolt truck rear axle thats in my '49. I know there should be an id number on the axle tube behind the right rear wheel but 70 + years of grease and crap and i cant find it. wire wheel doesnt cut it. may have to take the axle out and media blast it. all this to figure out what drum brakes i have in the rear.

There is some info here. https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-s...rearend-guide/ It is a bit vague but does give you a little bit to go on.

[nvrdone]

Thanks for the link. I did figure out that there is a serial number (? ) on the front of the right axle tube. my problem is the many years of grease and dirt covering it up. looks like next weekends project is to soak the area with brake clean and take a wire wheel to it. hopefully i can find the number.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

Thanks for the link. I did figure out that there is a serial number (? ) on the front of the right axle tube. my problem is the many years of grease and dirt covering it up. looks like next weekends project is to soak the area with brake clean and take a wire wheel to it. hopefully i can find the number.

You might measure the inside diameter and inside depth of the drum and the width of the shoes. Then take some pics of the installed shoes and the front and rear of the rear end and post it all. Someone here should be able to help you with what you've got.

For extra credit, media blast the front of the right tube while it's in the car. Good Luck!

[dsraven]

Hey dransport, if you dont mind the smell, spray a little diesel on the area and let it soak. Castrol super clean works well too. If you get it cleaned but find it hard to make the numbers out try a quick coat of lacquer, let it dry, then use a fine file lightly over the area, or sandpaper on a wood block. This removes the paint from the tube but leaves the paint in the divets made from the number stamps. It has worked for me before for things like this.