67-72 Electric speedo

[ls1nova71]

Caustik, are you trying to use a '94 speedometer? If so, I don't think it will work. I have tried using one of those, but could never get it to be as accurate as the '96. I don't know what resistor you're going to change on it, but don't thonk it's going to be that simple since the older speedobused a circuit board that was about half the size of the newer one. If it's an availability problem, I can probably get you one.

[Caustik]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Caustik, are you trying to use a '94 speedometer? If so, I don't think it will work. I have tried using one of those, but could never get it to be as accurate as the '96. I don't know what resistor you're going to change on it, but don't thonk it's going to be that simple since the older speedobused a circuit board that was about half the size of the newer one. If it's an availability problem, I can probably get you one.

I am just using this one for mockup and playing with it a little while waiting for my other cluster and PCM to come in. I am only basing this as a hunch from the V8 conversion in my s10, initially when setting up the stock Tachometer for the v8 I soldered to the wrong circuit and it caused my speedometer to accelerate at about 3 to 1. if it works then cool, if not at least it gave me something to do while waiting for more parts.

[Steve Cole]

Question for Eric, (or anyone else who knows) - when I push down the reset knob for the trip meter, the locking bar pulls away from the numbers but they do not roll back to zero. I can manually turn them to zero while holding down the rest knob but they don't spin on their own. Is this broken or does the cluster need to have power applied for this to work? I wouldn't think that is the case, but I see no reason for this not working.

Thanks!

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

Question for Eric, (or anyone else who knows) - when I push down the reset knob for the trip meter, the locking bar pulls away from the numbers but they do not roll back to zero. I can manually turn them to zero while holding down the rest knob but they don't spin on their own. Is this broken or does the cluster need to have power applied for this to work? I wouldn't think that is the case, but I see no reason for this not working.

Thanks!

They're spring loaded, so that when you push the button down, they roll back to zero, no power needed. It sounds like the spring may be broken or something is binding them. Is this with everything installed, or not?

[Steve Cole]

This is uninstalled, just holding it in my hand. If you are talking about the spring on the plunger itself, it is fine. When I push the plunger (knob) down, it is spring loaded back up. When I push it down, I can see that bar at the top side of the numbers that keeps them from rotating, move out of the way so that the number dials rotate freely, they just don't do it on their own. I hope this is making sense to you. Thanks.

[ls1nova71]

Yes, the numbers themselves are spring loaded. If they dont return to zero, then the spring in it must be bad.You will just have to replace the odometer number part.

[Steve Cole]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Yes, the numbers themselves are spring loaded. If they dont return to zero, then the spring in it must be bad.You will just have to replace the odometer number part.

Thanks Eric, I was afraid of that. I guess I will have to buy another cluster from the junkyard. Maybe I can find one with less mileage this time.

[ewoody625]

I have a few questions on wiring.
1. Do you have a part number for the hi beam indicator?
2. What connector did you use to wire it into the main harness?
3. I have no idea how to follow the printed circuit. So how do I wire this thing
4. Do I have to do the volt gauge swap or will the factory one work?
Thanks

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by ewoody625

I have a few questions on wiring.
1. Do you have a part number for the hi beam indicator?
2. What connector did you use to wire it into the main harness?
3. I have no idea how to follow the printed circuit. So how do I wire this thing
4. Do I have to do the volt gauge swap or will the factory one work?
Thanks

1 - I don't have a part number, but it was just a 12v LED that I picked up at Radio Shack.
2 - you can use what ever you want, but I like these. http://kwikwire.com/15-position-amp-connector-kit/
3 - To follow the printed circuit board, you just have to look at it. The gauges are bolted to the printed circuit, the 12v powers will all be hooked together, so by following it, you should see it. The grounds are usually grounded to the tin, and the sender wires are separate. Just follow the printed 'wire' from the gauge back to the original dash plug so you know what each wire does. I really cant explain it any more than that, but if you cant figure it out, you may need to find someone in your area that can either wire it for you, or at least help you out with it.
4 - You don't have to put a volt gauge in, but there really isn't any good way to get the original ammeter to work with the LS alternator, so that's why I change them. If you can live without that gauge then you don't need to do anything.

[ewoody625]

[QUOTE=ls1nova71;8152170]1 - I don't have a part number, but it was just a 12v LED that I picked up at Radio Shack.
2 - you can use what ever you want, but I like these. http://kwikwire.com/15-position-amp-connector-kit/
3 - To follow the printed circuit board, you just have to look at it. The gauges are bolted to the printed circuit, the 12v powers will all be hooked together, so by following it, you should see it. The grounds are usually grounded to the tin, and the sender wires are separate. Just follow the printed 'wire' from the gauge back to the original dash plug so you know what each wire does. I really cant explain it any more than that, but if you cant figure it out, you may need to find someone in your area that can either wire it for you, or at least help you out with it.
4 - You don't have to put a volt gauge in, but there really isn't any good way to get the original ammeter to work with the LS alternator, so that's why I change them. If you can live without that gauge then you don't need to do anything.[/QUOTE
Ok Thanks for the info I'm gonna try to work on it tomorrow I'll let you know if I have any issues

[ewoody625]

Another question... what is the difference between the square body volt gauge and the 67-72? I started shopping for a gauge and they look the same to me, as far as the back of the gauge goes. Also, I thought I saw a link to a thread on doing that swap but can't find it now, am I making that up? Thought I would find the answer to my question there. Thanks

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by ewoody625

Another question... what is the difference between the square body volt gauge and the 67-72? I started shopping for a gauge and they look the same to me, as far as the back of the gauge goes. Also, I thought I saw a link to a thread on doing that swap but can't find it now, am I making that up? Thought I would find the answer to my question there. Thanks

They are two different gauges, one is a voltmeter and one is an ammeter. They do look the same, but internally are different. If you want a simple bolt in that looks factory, this thread has what you are looking for. Post #274 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...653967&page=11

[ewoody625]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

They are two different gauges, one is a voltmeter and one is an ammeter. They do look the same, but internally are different. If you want a simple bolt in that looks factory, this thread has what you are looking for. Post #274 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...653967&page=11

If i wanted to do this swap myself what is involved? I already purchased an 87 cluster with the impression I had to do it myself. Thanks

[Steve Cole]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

I forgot about the high beam indicator, but there's a pic on page 1 of this thread. It's a 12v LED I bought at Radio Shack. it has a small nut that threads on it so you can bolt it in a hole. I made a bracket that bolts to one of the screws that holds the speedo part in. I also ended up putting a piece of window tint under the face, between it and the clear plastic part, to keep it from appearing to glow when the dash lights are on. The dash lights will light up the clear and the indicator will be white. putting the window tint darkens it so you don't see it, but it's not so dark that the LED doesn't show through.

Hey Eric, two questions: since you mounted the high beam indicator to one of the speedo attachment bosses, does this mean you only used the other two bosses to attach the speedo to the plate? To clarify, there are only 3 attach points to secure the clear plastic speedo plate to the metal plate, so was the upper attach point omitted so the light bracket could be used there?

Also, I noticed you added two of the single wire lights between the 2 sets of small gauges, does this make a noticeable difference in gauge brightness?

Thanks!

[Steve Cole]

Hey Eric, never mind the first question, I took a different approach by counter boring the plastic piece so the LED sits flush with the surface of the plastic piece, then ran the nut and lock washer down on the backside. I think it will work pretty good but if it ever fails, I'm screwed. Lol.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

Hey Eric, never mind the first question, I took a different approach by counter boring the plastic piece so the LED sits flush with the surface of the plastic piece, then ran the nut and lock washer down on the backside. I think it will work pretty good but if it ever fails, I'm screwed. Lol.

Sorry I missed your post yesterday, but it seems like you figured out a solution. What I did was made that bracket, then put the bolt through both it and the mounting plate to hold it on. As for the other lights, it does make them brighter, but that's the only cluster I did it on because it makes them brighter than the gas gauge and speedometer and that kind of bugged me.

[Steve Cole]

Thanks for the reply Eric. Have you tried a lesser wattage bulb, or a tinted bulb to reduce the brightness to an acceptable level? It seemed like a good idea when I saw the pic. Thanks.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

Thanks for the reply Eric. Have you tried a lesser wattage bulb, or a tinted bulb to reduce the brightness to an acceptable level? It seemed like a good idea when I saw the pic. Thanks.

No, I never tried it again. I just paint the underside of the tin flat white rather than the green they are originally and it seems to brighten it up enough.

[Steve Cole]

Hi Eric,

I have two questions for you-
does the LS motor run at a higher oil pressure than the old Gen1 350? if so, would an 80# oil pressure gauge be better to use (for keeping the needle mid-scale) instead of the 60# one ?

Also, what is this ?

[ls1nova71]

I think oil pressure is more dependant on how good of shape the engin is in, but mine do seem to run a bit higher than the older engines. My gauge goes way over to the right on start up and stays to the right most of the time, so if you want the needle in the middle an 80# gauge would probably get you there.

The black box on that cluster is a relay I was using for another purpose, you wont need it.

[Steve Cole]

Thanks for the reply Eric!

[Bucky10pt]

Eric, do you have a kit available? I'm getting ready to build one

[Caustik]

Just about done, needs some final placement tweaks and a needle.

[ls1nova71]

Looks good! I hear about people doing these, but almost no one posts any pics of their builds, thanks for posting some.

[lutronjim]

What is the XF21