My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

[Low Elco]

That is a slick little piece!

[jlsanborn]

I'm pretty well circulated in there but have a little work to do. Biggest problem now is the crappy roll up doors. I need to get some rigid insulation for those and also adjust them so they seal up a little better. The new stove has a couple plenums on the sides which are connected with big pipes throught the firebox. A good ol' home made heat exchanger! I need to find a small blower to hook that up. I've got these sexy, brassy ceiling fans going that do help a bunch too. For some reason Wifey just wouldn't havem in the house so I got them. They used to have some real fancy cut-glass light fixtures on them but I stripped those off. I've got just a basic box fan running behind the stove now but need to come up with something a little more permanent. I think I'll eventually have that and the stove blower on a temperature switch or t-stat. We're back into the 30's now so it's not too bad.

[jlsanborn]

So i got this new work phone and i still don't quite have it figured out. The pictures are really green looking and the seam sealer video was a bust! We did get the doors sealed though and i got a couple crappy pics.
Tape is the key. I wasn't critical here, just layed down a road around the door skin seam. I was a little more anal about it around the hoop though. Lay a bead down prolly 24" at a time then use your finger tip to smooth it out and remove excess. Immediately pull the tape and follow with the acid brush and thinner as needed to fix imperfections. Piece of cake!
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[jlsanborn]

Go HeeHawks!!!!!
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[Low Elco]

Awwww dat's nice! Wish mine turned out that well.

[jlsanborn]

Thanks man! We're really happy with how it looks. It's amazing how messy they were with it at the factory. There were at least a couple spots on the firewall where the dude wiped his finger tip off. Big-o blobs just smooshed on there!

I scuffed the insides of the doors once more and cleaned up the seam sealer here and there with a little sand paper. Got those, inside of the tailgate and the steering wheel in more epoxy. Should be blocking the outsides here soon!

[gdavis]

Hey man those door look great. I hope I will be able to get mine looking that good. A thumbs up to you.

[Bomp]

No need to say it but I'm gonna....... Nice!!!

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by gdavis

Hey man those door look great. I hope I will be able to get mine looking that good. A thumbs up to you.

Thanks! I've started looking through your build and will chime in there soon. I think I've seen you over on David's '67 build?

Originally Posted by Bomp

No need to say it but I'm gonna....... Nice!!!

Thanks Bomp! I really did try to video the seam sealer but this new phone has me by the balz! Plus i had the sticky sealer all over the place! Your build thread is something i look for each day. Yours is just at a different level and is truly going to be artwork! I appreciate you following along.
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[jlsanborn]

I know it don't look like much but I've got the underside of the hood pretty well detailed out. I sure wish I had a sandblaster! I'd like to get this done and the fenders done so I can hi-build and finish sand all those parts together with the doors and tailgate.

[67cheby]

for anyone that has done that and know how long it takes ....congrats on getting it done ! LOL

[Low Elco]

You're a better man than me- I had the blaster just do the ribs and edges, then I DA'd the sheet. Etch the bare and BANG! Yellow! I hate all the nook and cranny crap. Looks great!

[jlsanborn]

Thanks dudes! I'm taking the fenders to be blasted just so they can get rid of all the yuk that I can't get at. Those need just a little bodywork yet.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Thanks dudes! I'm taking the fenders to be blasted just so they can get rid of all the yuk that I can't get at. Those need just a little bodywork yet.

I have blasted a ton of parts over the years. Sand just seems to get stuck everywhere and never completely comes out of the nooks & crannies no matter what you do to get the part clean until you go to shoot some primer on the part.

There are a couple soda blasters in town that do great work at decent prices. Much better for sheet metal than sand blasting. The best thing is that the residue just washes off and is water soluble. It won't hurt glass or chrome either so you can have them clean up painted over emblems and vent window assemblies.

[jlsanborn]

Thanks for checking in guys! I've been quiet the last few days but am itchin to get back on it soon.

I'm still on the fence regarding the fenders. It'd sure be nicer if they were blasted clean but I just don't know if it's worth the cost and or risk at this point. They're really not all that bad it's just the hard to reach spots that I would really like to have rust free and real clean before I seal them up.

I might look at that "baby blaster" at HF. I could build a box kind of like Bomp did which would be really cool! I'm afraid I'd roach my tandem compressors with anything half sized tho.....

[butternut1972]

Everything is really looking good, what your doing now will pay off at the end. It seemed like it took forever when I was at this point. Keep up the great work.

[gdavis]

They sell a hand heald sand blaster around 20.00. To do some touch sand blasting. Harbor frieght or Tractor supply.

[Bomp]

Looking great man.
Make sure the sand blaster guy doesn't warp the sheet metal.
Don't worry about making a vid so much. The truck is more important.
You can vid big'ol burn outs later!

[Low Elco]

I had mine done, didn't seem to bother them. Make sure you check the overlapping seam in the inner of the bottom pocket. Mine was rotten, but the rest of the fender was great. In the end it was worth it to get stuff blasted.
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[jlsanborn]

Pretty slow lately as it's been freaking COLD. Not stupid cold like some folks have to deal with but single digits anyways. Had to do a little up-keep on the Crummy. I haven't had running window juice in years which SUCKS this time of year so I got that all sorted out. I've also been bumping the q-jet calibration up and am alomost back to the stupid mileage I was getting outta the AFB . Even though that little manual choke linkage I built worked slick, I HATE manual choke. I was thinking I'd invent my own divorced electric and went to the bone-yard for parts. What did I find? That exact same setup (labeled Echlin/NAPA) on a '70 C20. I'm going to finish that up today and I'll post a pic.

I did drop off them fenders at the blaster! I asked him to just do the insides and should have those back next week.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Pretty slow lately as it's been freaking COLD. Not stupid cold like some folks have to deal with but single digits anyways. Had to do a little up-keep on the Crummy. I haven't had running window juice in years which SUCKS this time of year so I got that all sorted out. I've also been bumping the q-jet calibration up and am alomost back to the stupid mileage I was getting outta the AFB . Even though that little manual choke linkage I built worked slick, I HATE manual choke. I was thinking I'd invent my own divorced electric and went to the bone-yard for parts. What did I find? That exact same setup (labeled Echlin/NAPA) on a '70 C20. I'm going to finish that up today and I'll post a pic.

I did drop off them fenders at the blaster! I asked him to just do the insides and should have those back next week.

When you get the auto choke installed I would love to see it. I to hate the manual choke. Gdavis from Florida

[jlsanborn]

Here ya go! Even managed to get a video uploaded too . In the video it didn't really set to full-choke, then it came off WAY too fast. I wound the spring up a bit more and will let you know how it goes in the morning.

Redneck electric choke - YouTube

[Bomp]

Cool vid man.
Wish I could figure stuff out like that.
Great sounding tone in the exhaust too.
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[Low Elco]

Great job! They are a mystery to me as well. I slipped with a screwdriver and zapped the choke in Yeller, still haven't fixed it, don't know how! Good vid!
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[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Cool vid man.
Wish I could figure stuff out like that.
Great sounding tone in the exhaust too.
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I'd say when it comes to carby's I know about enough to be dangerous! Seems I'm never satisfied and am constantly effin with it. If I wasn't trying to squirrel moolah for the actual BUILD I'd go to FI in a heartbeat (and probably be constantly fiddling with that too!). The phone audio dosen't do my obnoxious exhaust any justice! It's long tube headers with 3" pipe over the x-member and 3" cherry bombs. Still want to do tail pipes past the rear end but WRONG TRUCK.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Great job! They are a mystery to me as well. I slipped with a screwdriver and zapped the choke in Yeller, still haven't fixed it, don't know how! Good vid!
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I've got some schematics at the house but I'm pretty sure yours would be tapped off the heater blower circuit. I'm not sure if they used a fusible link or not. I think earlier ones used a contact on the oil pressure switch. The style that uses "keyed" source can fool the choke. In other words, just having the key on will start that choke pull-off. The pressure switch type won't start pulling the choke off unless the engine is actually running (oil pressure).


Looks like I got this video thing worked out and plan on doing more. Sure wish I could have got the big tree / rearend episode on the tube!

So it seems to me that this aftermarket coil I've got just heats up too fast. I tightened it up a bit yesterday after the video but it still comes off way too soon. This fella is cold blooded and still needs a little choke to get me past the stop sign. I may try a dropping resistor in there to slow it up. The coil is about 24 ohms, so 500mA and around 6 watts. A 10 ohm in there should cut the power down by about half....