![]() |
![]() |
#426 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Riverton KS
Posts: 832
|
Re: Project 69SWB
I'm still mopping up drool after looking through that jeep build. WOW! You have got some serious fab skills. My CJ is a toy compared to that thing. Should be done painting in a couple weeks. I'll send you some pictures when I'm done.
__________________
1970 SWB Build |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#427 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Quote:
Thank you Chad! I'm back on the truck and firing away. Thank Jonathan.. I worked for 2 years on that jeep. Can't wait to see yours! Last edited by ~Whitey~; 02-02-2014 at 06:10 PM. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#428 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Alright folks I've wired brushed, gator wheeled, sand blasted, converted, stripped with acid stuffs, covered up and stink eyed rust as much as I can stand it.. The're got to be a better way.
I've seen videos about Electrolysis, but figured it was too much trouble in the past and just stayed away from it.. decided to get all scientific yesterday and come up with this quick contraption: (don't make fun.. It's my first time!) ![]() Rust Annihilator Apparatus Version 1.0 The victim of a rustful crime and the experimentee.. I just put it in without even loosening up the scale rust. After just 40 minutes of rust-kickin bliss I pulled it out to check on it... Looks a little different eh? Last edited by ~Whitey~; 02-02-2014 at 05:00 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#429 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Alaska
Posts: 461
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Man jimmy truck is coming along awesome. Going to have to take sometime to catch up on your thread. Keep on truckin.
__________________
LIFTED OR LOW THE ONLY WAY TO GO!!!! Check out my build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=517346 Projects 56 Chevy pickup Porterbuilt FR/RR dropmembers |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#430 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
I could litterally wipe the rust off to bare metal with my fingers. I took a steel brush to it for barely 3 minutes then dried it off.
I also wanted to see the different between vinegar and this. NO before shot, but they were covered in rust. The one on the left.. I put in the Rust Annihilator Apparatus Version 1.0 for 30 minutes.. The one on the right... in vinegar for 24 hours. took a wire brush to both.. Couldn't get the rust off the vinegar version.. slid right of Rust Annihilator Apparatus Version The results were so amazing to me.. I decided to go BIGGER! Last edited by ~Whitey~; 02-02-2014 at 05:04 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#431 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Thanks brother.. I gotta get over and check out your ride too.. it's been a bit.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#432 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
SO when I said BIGGER.. I meant it.
Here's the Rust Annihilator Apparatus Version 2.0 Putting a wood bed back in the truck so these are the cross sills I got from another member. "Mr. Chevorlet" pretty rusty! Concrete blocks, ratchet strap, plastic, water, baking soda, 6ft length of 6" by 1/8 flatplate (positive cable) setting on a couple pieces of rubber. cross pieces are just for hanging the part (negative cable) in the solution of water and baking soda. It's cooking.. that's just hydrogen gas coming off. STAY TUNED.. This might take a day or two. ![]() Last edited by ~Whitey~; 02-02-2014 at 05:12 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#433 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
After about 2 hours I decided to pull it out and see where I was at... once again the rust just come off with ease (can't really tell in pic since it's wet, but it's gone). Flipped it around because this is a line-of-sight operation so I could get the backside. It blisters paint right off too. I'll do one more angle after this to get the inside. (this is the rear cross sill that goes under the tailgate) Don't know what that hole is in it, but I'll fill that up when done getting rid of the rust. I like this setting it and walking away business, then easy easy wire brushing and rinsing. will post up pics when it's totally done and dry.
pulled it out after two hours, lightly hit it with wire brush, the rust is gone. I did go out and check on it about every 30 minutes or so and lightly scratched at it with the wire brush. Going back in for other side. If I had another piece of 6 x 1/8 flat I would weld a little bridge to it, connecting the 2 and get both sides at once. but I don't :-( and it might be hard to keep them from touching then.. BIG sparky spark if they do. Had to hang the part better. Upgrade: Rust Annihilator Apparatus Version 2.1 More to come. Last edited by ~Whitey~; 02-02-2014 at 06:29 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#434 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 3,541
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Awesome Jimmy that is cool, I like that setup you got. Those parts look great!
__________________
Scott |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#435 |
Still Learning
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central Oklahoma
Posts: 10,108
|
Re: Project 69SWB
I really like what you have going here. I'm about all done with my rust removal on this project but I have more rusty projects waiting.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#436 |
Rusty Nuts
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Clever Missouri
Posts: 1,338
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Well Jimmy that's pretty ingenious, looks like its working pretty Good also.
__________________
(Clever Missouri) Southwest Larry Mr Chevrolet My Build, The Marathon Truck http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=604414 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#437 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Alaska
Posts: 461
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Wow really like the rust remover. Let me know when you have it figured out to do large pieces like a cab with surface rust.
__________________
LIFTED OR LOW THE ONLY WAY TO GO!!!! Check out my build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=517346 Projects 56 Chevy pickup Porterbuilt FR/RR dropmembers |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#438 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 3,541
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Excellent Idea ddubbs, I would like to try that too.
__________________
Scott |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#439 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chandler,AZ
Posts: 575
|
Re: Project 69SWB
I like your rust killer idea and the build is cool also.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#440 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Indep, MO
Posts: 5,893
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Jimmy for the Win! The Kid don't play!
__________________
Boppa's Old Yeller Truck Build, Old Yeller's New Heart! Project Buzz Bomb Flyin' Low! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#441 | ||||
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Thanks a bunch Stickman, I appreciate that. Ha! Definitely winning on these cross sills. Last edited by ~Whitey~; 02-04-2014 at 12:57 AM. |
||||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#442 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
I let the rear most cross sill fry while I was at work today. I kept having to flip it around through out this whole process to get line-of-sight between it and the sacrificial piece of metal.
Overall it did real good, rust floated off like butter, I hit it with a wire brush for about 15 minutes then took it to the car wash and power sprayed it, then back home and air dried it with the compressor hose. A little got left inside the channel because it was just hard to hang it right so that line of sight from the sacrificing metal could see in there. Next pic shows my idea to fix that on the other cross sills... and I may hit this one another time using that idea if I can't get at that little bit with a wire wheel and drill. I just ran a piece of metal inside the channel and made isolators from a plastic trash bag rolled tight and wrapped in electrical tape. The inside of this channel doesn't stand a chance. ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#443 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
here's a close of the little isolators I made.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#444 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: .
Posts: 3,104
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Totally Dig it.
Are you going to seal it up with epoxy? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#445 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Thank ya sir. You've gone and read my mind. Yes going to hit these with fast etch to take care of any rust I can't see, then epoxy, and I'm going to Herculine them like I did the bottom of my cab. Also after I get the wood in I'm going to Herculine the entire bottom of the bed.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#446 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
The rust removal is going great not much to show right now, just getting pieces done and accumulating enough to mix some epoxy and paint to spray them all. So while all that has been going on I decided to go ahead and rebuild my gauge cluster.
Here's the ugly. Typical dirt and little bit of rust Looks like I better replace that circuit Dropping this in the electrolysis trough Looks like an aftermarket temperature gauge.. It's gotta go. The difference in the needle width will drive me insane. no can do... I also have the 80lb oil pressure gauge in there. Last edited by ~Whitey~; 02-12-2014 at 10:09 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#447 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
I put all the tins in electrolysis and let it do the work of stripping the rust off and the paint as well.. Leaving me with nice clean metal to re-paint. For the weird green I had it color matched at O'Reilly's.. The needles are Duplicolor hugger green to match my engine and calipers.. and whatever else I end up doing green.
Fresh Paint and plastic. The Faceplate came from Manes, circuit and plastic from Classic Parts.. everything else.. came from 1969 ;-) masked off the round part of the tach needle it didn't come out good enough to pass my standards.. UGGGH! Had to pull out this rivet to get the tach needle pieces apart for painting. Last edited by ~Whitey~; 02-12-2014 at 10:05 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#448 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
I tried masking the tach needle first in the pic above and you can see one step of it in one of the below pics, but had to come back and redo it.. There's no masking stuff that small and getting the result I wanted.
I just sprayed over the metal with matte clear to keep with the original look, I was tempted to spray it aluminum though. New circuit installed here. Changed out my hi-beam indicator to green to match the needles and other green accents I've done. tach needle came out nice since I took it part.. was a little rivet holding the 2 pieces together. I put it back together with hot glue. That's a piece of white lint back there oops. All done. New glass, faceplate and circuit... I tried to polish my old glass but it was too far gar. I'm going to order some green 168 bulbs to out in here too. Last edited by ~Whitey~; 02-12-2014 at 09:59 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#449 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 3,541
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Cluster looks pretty slick Jimmy, nice work.
__________________
Scott |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#450 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 677
|
Re: Project 69SWB
Thanks a bunch Scott. Wanted to get that out of the way so I didn't just slam in the truck when the time comes and not give it the attention I wanted.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
Tags |
1969, black, custom 10, fleetside, shortbed |
|
|