58 TRUK intro

[DransportGarage]

Very nice, Ogre. It must be spring...

[_Ogre]

back in post 399 of this thread i mention i had lost my speedo coming home from the hot rod power tour
that was way back in june, i ordered 3 speedos and they either came mangled or so far out of calibration i ended up returning them all
i finished the year off with my neighbors old android phone with the speedometer app loaded

i had stupidly sold my old speedo and bought a new one to have the mileage reset to zero for the rebuild
a member on another forum sent me an used stock speedo that worked but was way off calibration
another member on this forum tbone1964 had mentioned he did speedo and gauge rebuilds and calibration
he was in the middle of moving from michigan to oregon last summer,
i ended up sending my speedo off to him in october and received it back a couple weeks later during a very cold winter (coldest feb on record)

just started driving truk for the spring and installed the speedo last month
the speedo is dead on; cudos and a shout out to tbone1964
nice to have a working speedo again...

if anyone needs speedo or gauge work done on their classic tbone is the man
he has a website http://www.classicgaugeandcluster.com/ where you can see some of the work he's done
he was also 1/3 the cost of dealing with a local speedo shop here including the shipping cost both ways
not sure if that was a forum discount or just his standard rate for ogres

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

back in post 399 of this thread i mention i had lost my speedo coming home from the hot rod power tour
that was way back in june, i ordered 3 speedos and they either came mangled or so far out of calibration i ended up returning them all
i finished the year off with my neighbors old android phone with the speedometer app loaded

i had stupidly sold my old speedo and bought a new one to have the mileage reset to zero for the rebuild
a member on another forum sent me an used stock speedo that worked but was way off calibration
another member on this forum tbone1964 had mentioned he did speedo and gauge rebuilds and calibration
he was in the middle of moving from michigan to oregon last summer,
i ended up sending my speedo off to him in october and received it back a couple weeks later during a very cold winter (coldest feb on record)

just started driving truk for the spring and installed the speedo last month
the speedo is dead on; cudos and a shout out to tbone1964
nice to have a working speedo again...

if anyone needs speedo or gauge work done on their classic tbone is the man
he has a website http://www.classicgaugeandcluster.com/ where you can see some of the work he's done
he was also 1/3 the cost of dealing with a local speedo shop here including the shipping cost both ways
not sure if that was a forum discount or just his standard rate for ogres

Hello Mr Ogre,

I am glad you are happy with the speedo work. I try to make sure they are correct the first time I repair them so I am not getting phone calls. I appreciate your trust and business. It is very rewarding and comments like yours make me want to continue doing great work for great people.

Enjoy spring in Michigan and say hello to the pot holes for me

Take care,
Tom

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by TBONE1964

Enjoy spring in Michigan and say hello to the pot holes for me

i'm headed your way this summer, i will get you for this

[Kim57]

Nice job on the mirror.
Kim

[_Ogre]

your truck is looking good, very nice

the door harness loom i made has worked well for 5 yrs and 26,000 miles
no shorts or broken wires to date

the tube is 5.625 long, the tube slot is 3.5'' long and maybe a 1/16'' wider than the tube
the important part is the pivot placement; .375'' from the end of the slot and the tube
the pivot is a 1/8'' roll pin, drill the pivot in the tube right on the edge of the wall
only the bottom hole in the plate is 1/8'' all others are a loose fit to make it easier to install the pin
the loose fit means i can drop the pin in 75% and less hammering near finished door jamb paint
the aluminum plate was cut with a jig saw and filed to shape, same for the door jamb hole

here is a link to the pic so you can download it and zoom in, if you want
http://s306.photobucket.com/user/_og...ml?sort=3&o=26

my paint was done as is yours so tape everything up well



in the door i have a round 1.5'' hole, it was easier to drill with the door hung
to line up both holes in the jamb and door i laid out the tube location when the door was closed
then drilled a hole in the jamb to match the center of the tube; closed the door and transferred the center to the jamb

i made a .25'' pvc guide with a square hole as a guide and used double side tape to secure it
the pvc failed, try to use delron or some other plastic sheet material and screw it to the door
right now i have no in door guide on the drivers door, it has been that way for 3 yrs

i recommend doing the pass door first as you will learn a lot on the first install
i did the drivers door first... it has always squeaked a bit
if you need any more info or help post back

[oldcouple]

Thank you so much, Now I just have to make the journey to the nearest place that stocks the supplies needed, some 27 miles, gotta love living in the wilderness.

[_Ogre]

check home depot i bought everything there
though it may still be 27 miles

[_Ogre]

thanks hubscrub
had i found this forum when i started my build, there'd be a lot more build pics

[_Ogre]

my truk is finally back together for the first time since speedo problems started last june
the dash fascia and column cover have been out since then
hooray!

pulled the headlight rings out last month to aim the headlights, both were pointing in the right ditch
got those back in today too

[Advanced Design]

Great, nice cruising weather right now. Are you going on Power Tour again?

[_Ogre]

it's about time we had good cruising weather
last weekend it was in the mid 80s, tried to go to a cruise in on tuesday, it was cloudy windy and 52*f
brrrrr

to bad most of the country is going to rain for the holiday

not sure about the power tour this year; at this point i'll say no

[samples45]

Alright man I'm wanting to keep my drip rail/ ledge on the firewall but I want to smooth out the cowl to firewall seam that's above the drip rail. Can you explain how to do it? I just didn't wanna make it weak when I smooth it out!

[_Ogre]

post a pic of what your talking about in the thread you started, i didn't see your thread on the topic
we're unsure of what seam your referring to
i tried to pm you back, your ''in box'' is full, you need to delete some pm's

[samples45]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

post a pic of what your talking about in the thread you started, i didn't see your thread on the topic
we're unsure of what seam your referring to
i tried to pm you back, your ''in box'' is full, you need to delete some pm's

It was the same seam yall were talking about.. outer cowl meets the firewall.. the cowl was overlapped the fire wall and just had some spot welds from the factory. but i got it all taken care of and smoothed out. turned how just fine! Now im needing advice on smoothing the vents.. If you could tell me what sheet metal you used and how you put the curve in it. thanks!

[Kim57]

I just used 16 gauge steel.
Here are a few pics.
Kim

[_Ogre]

shaving the cowl vent eliminates the entrance hole for water that destroy our cabs
the rust found in; front cab corners, vents and hinge pockets can usually be attributed to this vent
i always recommend shaving the vent

kim did it the right way, i cheated and used longhair filler to plug the vents and then welded the panel in
my original intent was to leave the vent loose so that it was removable
you can see the screws in this pic

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

shaving the cowl vent eliminates the entrance hole for water that destroy our cabs
the rust found in; front cab corners, vents and hinge pockets can usually be attributed to this vent
i always recommend shaving the vent

kim did it the right way, i cheated and used longhair filler to plug the vents and then welded the panel in
my original intent was to leave the vent loose so that it was removable
you can see the screws in this pic

I welded mine all the way in.
Kim

[samples45]

thanks guys!

[roger55]

Thanks for responding to me about the radiator fan questions on the other site.

When you say you did those 95+ degree power tours and didn't overheat, do you know what the actual temperatures you run in-town and on the highway at those 95 outside temps?

It would be helpful for me to compare those with the temperatures I'm getting with mine at 95 out.

P.S.
It's about time I make a post and get subscribed to your build thread. Magnificent truck btw.

[bowt1ed]

Hey Ogre,
Since you didn't weld it in entirely, what did you use to seal it in. Seam sealer under edges? Thanks, Jim

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by roger55

Thanks for responding to me about the radiator fan questions on the other site.

When you say you did those 95+ degree power tours and didn't overheat, do you know what the actual temperatures you run in-town and on the highway at those 95 outside temps?

It would be helpful for me to compare those with the temperatures I'm getting with mine at 95 out.

P.S.
It's about time I make a post and get subscribed to your build thread. Magnificent truck btw.

i run a stock gauge that has the C----H it's a little difficult to determine the actual temperature
this is where it typically runs in the lower end towards C- i figure this is right around 185 or 190*
seeing as it goes to there and never goes higher, in town or hiway, summer or winter
i also run ac so the fan is on when the ac is on

and i might have lied a little when i said truk never overheated
my fan relay came unplugged from the temp sensor on the first power tour on a 104* day
driving in stop 'n go traffic, i was steaming when i pulled up to a stop light
the gauge was almost on H at that point, but i was also running a 8 lb cap, now i run a 16 lb cap



i believe my radiator, shroud and fan all came from brothers, drop shipped from US radiator



i run my fan relay temp sensor in my lower radiator hose coming out of my radiator
in a short piece of ss 1.5'' exhaust tube with half a ss 3/8'' coupling welded in
having the sensor after the radiator allows the radiator to do it's job before turning the fan on
having it before the radiator, the fan will always be on

Magnificent truck btw

and thank you. it's also a lot of fun

[bowt1ed]

Thanks

[_Ogre]

i seam sealed the top edge that goes under the windshield and the bottom edge that is screwed
the sides were welded and finished off with filler

[dug224]

Ogre: Just reviewed your creative fiberglass work as I prepare to build my center console. Current plan is to use the center portion of the Envoy console which includes 2 cup holders, a slot of the e-brake and the hole and boot for the shifter. I will need to fabricate forward to the dash and rearward to the cab wall. I'll use wood for this. My question is....have you ever installed fiberglass directly onto plastic? I really like the factory console shapes and want to retain them. thx dug