Slosh Tubz new company project "Square Peg" frame laying 1987 GMC Jimmy

[fastcam1]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

How about a shot of my ghetto fabulous mock up rear axle and a teaser shot of the stance ! I also had to trim out a little more of the rear floor and remove a set of body mounts to make room for the notch

man this thing is gonna look sweet fully laid out!!!!!!!!!

[67cheby]

Page roll....^$%#@$%#@& , Frame reinforcement idea (w/steel, LOL) and layed out mock up

[gringoloco]

My $.02 on the 2x4. Use thick wall tubing and weld as much as possible. Plenty of plug welds on the tops and sides as well as the seams. Same goes for the notches- I like to overbuild these types of things...

[thor]

I'm liking the frame mod idea (though I keep hearing "custom frame" in my head).

[fastcam1]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

My $.02 on the 2x4. Use thick wall tubing and weld as much as possible. Plenty of plug welds on the tops and sides as well as the seams. Same goes for the notches- I like to overbuild these types of things...

X2 better safe than sorry
Posted via Mobile Device

[67cheby]

[quote=gringoloco;5791054]My $.02 on the 2x4. Use thick wall tubing and weld as much as possible. Plenty of plug welds on the tops and sides as well as the seams. Same goes for the notches- I like to overbuild these types of things...[/QU
What do you think for thickness ? it will be plug welded and welded solid on the top and bottom of the frame from front to back , for sure !

Originally Posted by thor

I'm liking the frame mod idea (though I keep hearing "custom frame" in my head).

LOL, if i had a frame table and alot of extra time i might just do that ....but i dont !

Originally Posted by fastcam1

X2 better safe than sorry
Posted via Mobile Device

exactly ! i am a BIG OVERKILL person myself, my friend that builds rock crawlers thinks i dont even need to put the 2x4 in, he says just cut it off and plate the bottom and add a few gussets.....but i think this is the best idea ? but i am open for other ideas also !

[N2TRUX]

What your considering for the frame is common for a "stock floor" body drop with a Z'ed frame.

[67cheby]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

What your considering for the frame is common for a "stock floor" body drop with a Z'ed frame.

Do you see any issues in doing it this way ?

[mooseknuckles]

is that a precut or econo stud?.....I would def use pressure treated instead!....lol.

[67cheby]

LOL....oh no the pressure treated ones are way to expensive !

[Oklahoma_k5]

Those frames flexed like crazy stock so just about anything will make it more rigid. The stock frame was about 10 gauge metal so I would be comfortable with at least 10 gauge tubing and I like the idea of plug welding it in quite a few places and if you can add a cross member or two that will certainly help out.

I fully boxed and added three 2 1/2 inch tubing cross members to my K5 and now the suspension flexes not the frame.

Remember the dimensions of a wood 2x4 and 2x4 box tubing are not the same. Don't let that mess you up in planning where to cut. That is one of those things that I manage to forget about when the plasma torch starts cutting.

[Oklahoma_k5]

One tool I use when working on frames is a laser level that has projects a vertical and horizontal beam at the same time. Requires the body out of the way but with a bunch of measuring i can be sure the frame is level and straight as well as square.

[67cheby]

any pictures of yours?

[aggie91]

I think that the tube wall should be 3/16" thick, the stock frame rails are about 0.156" (not 100% sure, but thicker than 10ga) thick which is a little thicker than 10ga(0.135").

I would really consider doing a full 2x4 tube frame rail front to back. The amount of work/time you are going to put into modifying the stock frame, you would probably be ahead of the game with 2x4 rails. You could make them the same width at the front as the stock frame so the Scott's IFS would still work for you. I might be a little far from you, but I might could get you a frame table to use. I will check tonight and see if it is available, I know the project that was next for it was put on hold...

[67cheby]

here is what i want to do with the rear notch, any input on what guage steel to use for this ? This should be much stronger then your cut and butt typical square tubing step notch correct ?

[jlsanborn]

Looks stout, but I don't really see the need for the honeycomb innards. Maybe a couple just to help get it tacked up. If you'll be attaching things to this area of the frame, then you might be able to incorporate some added strength in those areas.

[67cheby]

i agree a couple maybe just to keep the spacing right !

[LEEVON]

Mike, you need any parts from this truck? http://springfield.craigslist.org/pts/3492624912.html

I'm thinking about going to look at it Saturday. The tailgate band looks cherry in the pic.

[67cheby]

WOW, how funny I could use the solid side glasses and the rear glass if it isnt scratched ana a decent dash pad if it has one ?

[LEEVON]

My guess is the dash pad is toast, the guy said the interior was roached because the PO disassembled the drivetrain and put it in the seats. Nice. He has another Blazer too.

You mean side glass for the fiberglass top, not the doors right? I think I could remove those, the rear glass will probably have to come with with me and the tailgate though. I'll probably try and snag the emblems too.

[67cheby]

yes the top side and rear glass, i am sure the rear glass would have to come with the gate

[gringoloco]

Any reason for the rounded notch, other than looks? I like it, but it seems like a bunch of fab work when an 8-piece step notch kit is pretty cheap. Will the notch be exposed? 3/16" thickness for the tubing and plate for the notch as well.

[67cheby]

the only reason is that i wanted solid side pieces because i thought that it would be stronger in case i end up pulling Cloud 9 with it ....as for the round part just looks, and it wont be exposed .

[watahyahknow]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

i agree a couple maybe just to keep the spacing right !

i think you can do the spacing with a little piece of 4 or bigger inch diameter thin wall exaust pipe as whell its eazier to cut those square with a pipecutter than the plate material , dril a hole where you put the pipe so the wall of the pipe is visible and put a plugweld in to keep it in place , it will be eazier to run wiring though the frame as whell with the pipes nothing to get stuck behind or scrape

the honeycomb structure youre showing would be a lot stronger if you connected the pieces to form triangles butted against eachother but unless you made the structure out of realy thin sheetmetal i dont think its needed aspecially if you weld it to the floor of the body too

[jtp67-72]

Check these guys...lots of options here..reasonable prices for the work saved.....Yeah I'm on the team and lookin'........lol..............jim

http://www.welderseries.com/blog/onl.../frame-curves/

or these....

http://stores.checkeredracing.com/Detail.bok?no=37