49 3600, s10 swap, project boogie

[ptc]

Get some of these plastic tools for glass and trim work. They WORK great!

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-67021.html

[joedoh]

good tip! this isnt the last time I will be doing it so I will add it to the list of harbor freight tools to buy


steering day. I use borgeson stuff because being cheap on steering is just dumb. I use the collapsible two piece shaft, and its just barely too long to fit perfectly, but you will want to cut about 4.5 inches off the 3/4 side so that the collapsible part works as intended. I always hook up the box side first


make sure you dont jam the shaft all the way through the ujoint, that will likely keep it from functioning as a u joint, pull the shaft back so it doesnt stick through the joint. see the air in the joint?


THIS right here, THIS is why I use the collapsible shaft. hooking it up is so easy with about 6" of extra length (the collapsible length pulled all the way out) rather than crawling on the floorboard trying to get the set screws and jam nuts set


the s10 column end is just barely to big to fit the 1" DD ujoint, a little grinding is needed.


I stopped taking pictures but the column is in for what may be the last time, the front clip is bolted on completely, the rear brake line hooked up. I have the 03 spindles drug in the garage, currently deciding between switching the spindles or just bolting on the calipers and pads. I do have to take the passenger spindle off to reset the spring, and retrieve a wrench that fell in the frame when I took the motor mounts off. tomorrow I will get the line adapters to hook up the master cylinder and mount the condenser/radiator.

[Advanced Design]

I sure agree with you on the steering. Go for good quality for sure.

Looking good joedoh. Is the collapsible shaft coated with anything to resist corrosion? Thinking paint might interfere with collapse function.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

I sure agree with you on the steering. Go for good quality for sure.

Looking good joedoh. Is the collapsible shaft coated with anything to resist corrosion? Thinking paint might interfere with collapse function.

no, they are not coated, but I will squirt some paint on it when I squirt the inner fenders.

have I mentioned how nice it is to steer the truck with the steering wheel instead of by kicking the tires when pushing it in and out of the garage? because its super great. soon I wont even have to push!

[lower50's]

Nice write up on how you did the steering! Ya don't cheap on steering and brakes all the other stuff the dollar store is fine LOL.

[joedoh]

haha dollar store! thats classic


I didnt get a lot done yesterday, a week ago I buried the 4x4 up to the axles. in the back yard. a 15 inch deep trench, two of them really, about 30 feet long by the time I got free. my wife was thrilled. I came home and my neighbor volunteered to hit it with his tiller. helluvaguy


then my 41 finally showed up.



so today I stated by pulling a couple parts off the 41, then ran for the brake parts. I am going to post this in its entirety because I have seen a lot of threads about ABS removal but not a lot of info. I started by calling up the diagram of the brake system at
http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.co...oduct=10493315

this was a good resource because it showed all the lines and fittings, and labels them pretty completely too. I had to look up a few fittings (googled the part number) but in the end I ended up with this


in their infinite wisdom, GM decided to flip the sizes used on the master cylinder vs the abs, meaning the rear out on the master cylinder is a 9/16 -18 1/4" and the rear out on the ABS is a 1/2 -20 1/4". the front out on the master cylinder is a 1/2 -20 3/16" and on the ABS is a 9/16 -18 3/16". another funny abnormality is that the forward (towards the grille) port on the master is the REAR output and the rearward port is the FRONT output, effectively backwards of most other GM build in 40 years. funny funny stuff GM.

you can see on the sheet I took a stab at determining what adapters I would need, a 9/16 -18 to 1/2 -20 and then a tee with all the different front sizes adapted to it. the first I found easily enough at autozone. however the second, I even went to the main auto parts distributor in town and nobody makes a 3/16 tube tee with anything but a 3/16 standard port. this is a problem because there also isnt anything such as a 9/16 -18 3/16" tube female to 3/16" tube adapter, nor a 7/16 -24 to 3/16. crap.

so I got a 1/2 -20 3/16" male to 3/16 female master cylinder adapter (they make it that direction), a short length of 3/16th tube with 3/16 fittings (to go from master to tee), a 3/16 tee, and TWO DAMN 3/16 FITTINGS to replace the wacky shack fittings on the front lines. I hate flaring brake lines.

but it works.

I have to clean it all up, none of the lines are tight, need the tee to face up. but that is a monkey off my back, and I hope the parts list helps someone else.


I pulled the latch apron to do some work on an air diverter. I want airflow through the rad not around it. the original diverter will work a little but I figure a nice abs plastic piece will make it really nice.


I tried pounding out some of the grille damage but I dont have a ballpeen or pick, so it may stay the way it is.

[99 to Life]

41' is sweet, nice write up on the brakes.

[47 Fasttoys]

Alright Joedoh, if I may, let me interject a little here. For the master cylinder it is normal for the front (grill) to be for the rear brakes, has been for many years. The reason for this is the front bore is normally smaller due to rear drums. If the front where larger it would be impossible to assemble the master cylinder because the discs need a larger piston diameter for more volume. The disc piston would not fit through the drum bore. On a disc/disc system they can (but not always) be of the same size and can go either way. Now for the ABS system you do have the option of just leaving it in place, if it fails electrically it acts as a through valve with no effect on braking. I have run mine this way for 40K + miles now with no braking issues at all. Now if the ABS unit itself is in the way by all means remove it.
Keep up the progress,
Rob

[joedoh]

I can look at the master cylinder and see what you are saying, that the rearmost bore is larger diameter and would therefore go to the front brakes.

but do a search on deleting abs on an s10. there are tens of searches that will tell you that the front bore is larger reservoir and larger pipe and therefore to the front brakes. even though it doesnt line up that way on the abs (why would it cross over internally?). reasons are given that the front bore goes to the front brakes and have for many years of disc systems. I am posting this not because it is my personal beliefs, but because so many delete threads get it wrong.

the s10 ABS systems are prone to failure. I left the system intact in the 65 (with replacement parts!), gutted the valves in the 47 (had a failed solenoid), and this truck and all forward will get the delete. kudos to you for keeping yours, but I have better things to buy than replacement solenoids.

[joedoh]

so hot. but I have to get some stuff moved around, the other 41 and 49 are showing up soon and I would rather have a neatly organized project pile to pull from than rotting trucks laying around the yard. first step was the 46 in the driveway. it was 101 yesterday, 85% humidity so 107 heat index, but this is not the time to be timid.

pulled the hood, learned a lot


pulled the front clip. in 70 years you would not believe how many fasteners get replaced. I got pretty used to pulling a bolt/nut, trying the next one and running inside for a new wrench/socket. after only a few times (8) I just drug out the sets. used my learning from working on the 49 to wrestle the clip by myself.


hours later I got the cab loose. I tried saving the steering but it would not separate and I did not have enough lift to get the cab over the column. I did save the pedals though, which will help the guy who buys the rolling chassis.
50 dollar cherry picker doing work

50 dollar 8k lb body cart earning its keep


today it rained a little so I moved inside to the 49. I had mentioned earlier that one of my special headlights broke. since I use the 98-03 s10 donors for their bused electrical system and superior engine management, there is an issue with the headlights. there are separate high and low beam bulbs, and the 47-55 trucks use a single headlight with three wires. most times this isnt a problem because the two bulbs usually share a ground. but on 98-03 s10, the grounds are not shared, and can even have varying voltage on the ground for DRL. so you need 4 discrete wires, you cant combine the grounds or even share the grounds.

on my 65 (98 donor) I used a 7" HID headlight that had an HID low beam and a second H1 bulb for high beam, and after a lot of trial and blown fuses realized that the back of the headlight was metal, not plastic, and was sharing the ground I thought I was doing so well to keep separate. I fixed that with an H3 bulb that isolated the wiring. but those headlights are no longer made and are very expensive when you do find them



on the 47, I ended up with regular three wire sealed beams that I isolated the wiring with 4 relays, two per headlight. not exactly the best solution either. especially since the relay coil ate up the lower voltage of the drl, which was the whole point, to have that dull yellow old-timey glow when running.


The headlights I broke were something I got 15+ years ago on a whim, they had a spot for an H4 and another spot for an H1 driving light, and a plastic reflector. I had seen similar lights but they all had an amber section at the bottom for the driving light, not exactly in line with an old truck appearance. they were french made and really high quality. I managed to find another manufacterer of a similar light, made in india, bot quite as nice, but same triple bowl design (fits a small city light at the top). I wanted to use them directly with their own mounts but they stick out a bit.






so I will trim the mounting and make them fit the original buckets, probably for the best anyway since without the bucket water would probably pour out the cracks around the light when in the rain

maybe more in a bit, my wife is with her uncle at a screening so me and beeps are playing

[Advanced Design]

Wow, that 46 looks really solid! And the heat...wimped out here as far as shop work. Kudo's to you joedoh.

[joedoh]

it was almost a full 7 hours, mostly in direct sun. did you know 46 cabs have EIGHT BOLTS holding them down? EIGHT. neither did I. I thought four, then saw two more in the inaccessable spot in the cowl, then two more right in front of the seat!

last year before I cleaned the attached garage I fully worked on everything OUTSIDE, 4 season automotive, all season garage, whatever you call it. at least the concrete was somewhat flat. changed rearends, motors, mouted almost a hundred wheels, steering, you name it. I am pretty happy to have the small 20x20 now and look forward to having a bigger place soon. when its got to be done outside though, I still gripe and complain every chance I get.

got a little more done, started boxing in the inners which did wonders for the fender stiffness.


I didnt get a picture but the other side is done. this side still needs finished, to let the AC lines come through.

I picked up some kydex last week, I was familiar with this when I was a product development engineer in aerospace. its what side panels in aircraft (baggage compartments in expensive aircraft, passenger compartments in less expensive aircraft) are made of. wichita is home to a fabulous place called The Yard, whos slogan is "they have it at The Yard!" and its true. they get scrap material from all the local manufacturers, everything you could think of, stainless, aluminum, foam, abs, lexan, plexi, fabrics, even used but not used up bits and tools that dont pass high standard QA any longer. its about an acre site and they have some of everything, we are so lucky!

anyway, kydex, its a high strength plastic sheet with high thermal resistance and high flexibility properties. I figured it was perfect to make an air director out of to force air through the ac condenser and radiator. I used the latch panel as the starting pattern and trimmed it up, screwed it in. even abs would have cracked at some of these bends or at the screw holes, this stuff just took it. behold my $5 air director. it aint easy being cheesy.

[lower50's]

Very nice. It's funny, I know the material you used just never knew the name. That Yard place you have sounds like fun.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Very nice. It's funny, I know the material you used just never knew the name. That Yard place you have sounds like fun.

my late father in law would just walk around and look for something to do. I never told him when he was alive but I did sometimes too. everthing, man, they have everything, and then some. I saw roller conveyors and street signs last time I was there.

finished up the passenger side. I left the area where the ac fittings will attach open so that I could cover it with rubber instead of trying to get wrenches in the area when servicing.


drivers side


for a sanity check I installed the rad at the furthest position rearward and installed a broken clutch fan I had laying around. WHEW!


it was hot in the garage and I needed some paint, so I took a drive to see a truck my friend spotted for me. nice truck, good sheetmetal but three dollar signs when I had only two (yelp reference)


paint (painted the steering shaft too)

[joedoh]

after dinner I decided to mount the fuseblock, kyle used rod and washers to mount the one on the 47 but I didnt have any. I thought I would see if I could do it out of sheetmetal since I had a bunch, but my tin snipping hands were sore from the inners. I dug out my old nibbler, which I dont really like using because of the little half moons of death that end up everywhere. I put it over a bucket though so it caught most if not all.



I cut a strap of some 20ga and then used my vise as a box brake to bend up the mounting areas. the forward one was easy but the rear is angled, I got it on the first try if you can believe it though. I welded up the mounts and folded a couple spots over for some stiffness too




I held it in the rough position and used my cardboard skills to make some legs to mount it.



a coat of paint will do wonders and it will screw to the fender instead of weld to it so if I ever need access I will have it.

[99 to Life]

I hear you on the heat, trucks look great.

[lower50's]

Nice job on the fuse box bracket. How close is the fan to the rad, don't forget the motor will move all around a bit. Looks to close to me. I agree with the nibblers half moons of death they will stick into any footwear you have on, or worse.

[joedoh]

that was with the rad in its rearmost position, leaned back (the engine is at 4 degrees down at the trans) so it will normally have about 1/4" clearance, about what it had stock.

I picked up a score today, 2" belltech drop springs 3" drop blocks and front and rear nitro drop 2 shocks, almost new, $100! woot!

[Bushwickbill]

"steering day. I use borgeson stuff because being cheap on steering is just dumb. I use the collapsible two piece shaft, and its just barely too long to fit perfectly, but you will want to cut about 4.5 inches off the 3/4 side so that the collapsible part works as intended. I always hook up the box side first"

Was wondering what spline size u joint did you get for the steering box side? think its 3/4 by 30?

[joedoh]

hello kylie, why didnt you just text and ask?

if you had saved the box from when you installed this on the 47 GMC a few pages back, you would remember haha.

the part numbers for the borgeson stuff I used are

Borgeson Universal Steering U-Joints BRG-014931
Steering Universal Joint, Steel, 3/4 in. DD, 3/4 in. 30-Spline

Borgeson Universal Steering U-Joints BRG-015252
Steering Universal Joint, Steel, 1 in. DD, 1 in. DD

Borgeson Universal Telescoping Steering Shafts
BRG-450036 Steering Shaft, Steel Alloy, Universal

so its a 3/4 x 30 spline only if you use the telescoping shaft like on my 65, my 47, and now my 49. if you use the factory shaft, I have no idea what to use.

I have done a bunch of work but nothing picture worthy. all the brake lines are tight, I have new calipers rotors pads and rubber lines on the front brakes. DID YOU KNOW that if you use hard front lines off a blazer that the fittings are the smaller 3/16 size? I needed a second trip to the parts store because the s10 are the larger fitting size. same length and banjo though, so I will just make a note for the eventual purchaser.
I also installed a brand new sway bar, this frame didnt come with one and the one from the engine/harness donor was bent. a couple years ago a guy was selling an aftermarket bar and energy suspension sway bar bushing and end link kit with some drop blocks I wanted, its just been on the shelf. fits perfect, I cant remember the brand though. its not belltech, who else makes them? maybe djm...
speaking of belltech I got a used set of 3" springs, new 3" angled blocks, and 4 new nitro drop shocks on a short drive the other day. I decided the 3" springs were a bit more than I wanted but the nitro shocks will be a nice upgrade, usually I install mid line monroes.
I did get the headlight buckets trimmed out for the headlights which LOOK FABULOUS by the way!

the ring isnt all the way down, its very tight, but it will be stunning. the flat lenses are a great modern looking upgrade without looking flashy in my probably dumb opinion.

the rest of the week I was cleaning the driveway, I got the 54 235 separated from the frame after there was only interest in the motor. three guys said "I am on the way" and only one showed up. he is putting it in a 41, so we made our deal and he needed a seat. I had one from the critter mobile in the back yard so we traded. he got a 41 seat and I got



he even delivered. I am overjoyed because it is roughly the color (inside and tailgate, I will use the oven cleaner trick to get the yellow and black off) of that 49 GMC I bought recently and needed fenders for. so Hussey, if you are reading, I now have your pick of TWO chevy tailgates (a red one or a blue one) I could trade for that red GMC tailgate on your Albert. wink wink.

he wanted the frame at first and then didnt. I told him to come get it and scrap it for me.

I will be working on the gauges this week as time allows. I think instead of using labels that will read backwards anyway, I am going to sand and paint the rusty parts with the interior color and make red and blue hash marks in the right range. it sounds chintzier than I actually have envisioned, so be patient!

[lower50's]

Score. Headlights look good!!

[joedoh]

got off my butt and flipped the truck around to finish up the rear plumbing and wiring. sits PERFECT in the front with the drop springs.


in the back I cut off the bumpstops. I found what worked best was to slice across the face of the bumpstop bracket then pry it off with the big crowbar I found in my driveway after the construction guys left.


got the evap canister mounted and the rest of the gas lines hooked up. installed 3" angled blocks


its not NEARLY low enough. I cant figure it out, I put a 3" drop on the front so this should be close, and its not even a little close. (its on jackstands here but really only up about two inches from where it sits)


so I guess tomorrow when I drop off the driveshaft to be shortened I will take the extra set of springs I have and have them dearched 2 inches.

I got the headlights fingered out too. I spent a lot of time cutting the bucket to fit and instead of going through that hassle with the other side, I decided to use the mounts that came with the lights from the BACKside, this keeps them from sticking out so far and lets me cut the stock bucket ring so the chrome bezel fits perfect. no pics, but I am on a tear so watch out.

[lower50's]

The rear spring shackles should be straight up and down with the weight of the truck on the springs. they are pointed forward in your picture.

[rtinniste]

Originally Posted by lower50's

The rear spring shackles should be straight up and down with the weight of the truck on the springs. they are pointed forward in your picture.

the truck is on jack stands with no shocks

[joedoh]

yeah I bounced it off the stands and it went down maybe another 1/2 inch. there is still 6 inches between the axle and the frame, drop leafs will get me there.

its confusing because I used 3" drop leafs on the 47 GMC and it sat perfect with the same diameter rear tires. so I need 3" blocks and 2" springs to get there on this one. weird is all.