My long term 57 project

[99 to Life]

sad thing is, it prolly took longer to do it this way

[OrrieG]

Hopefully the upper half was used to fix one in even worse condition....

[ChuckDriver]

I believe the cab was rebuilt, sure it was a lot of work!

Check out these motor mounts, yikes! But someone did do a nice 5 lug conversion.

[ratty 46]

Looks like someone attended the Stevie Wonder welding school ... OUCH.

I still don't understand why people just don't ask someone for a little help. Being a retired GE welder even I ask for info/assistance once in a while. I've never stopped learning ... Life is like a ladder ...

[Kim57]

Those are some nasty looking welds.
Kim

[ChuckDriver]

Got it up on saw horses to make it easier to remove all of the stock suspension.

[oldman3]

JJ, I think I would keep the motor mounts, so you could show what NOT to make...Jim

[Advanced Design]

This is going to be so cool! Tagging along for more updates.

[Mattyparty]

Oh snap. Didn't know you got bit by the porterbuilt bug too, let me know if you have any questions.

[ChuckDriver]

Yep I sure did, thanks!

[ChuckDriver]

Spent a few hours removing the suspension brackets and cab mounts.

Started by grinding the frame rivets flat with a grinder, center punched them and drilled the centers. Followed by a cut off wheel, then used a air chisel to remove the heads. Then I had to drill down into what was left to relieve some of the tension before using the air punch to drive them out.

[Dan in Pasadena]

JJ,

I have what is probably a dumb question:

I've read all sorts of strategies for removing factory frame rivets and apparently it's not easy. Having never done it I'm sure I must be over simplifying it, but why can't you just grind the head flush with the frame flange, then either use a punch or air hammer to drive them out? Ok, I see why drilling the center gives you a place to hold the punch but why all the other steps?

[FarmerSid]

That's what I do Dan. Once flush, a BFH and a punch just under the size of the rivet. The outline of the rivet can be seen after grinding flush to the frame.

[FarmerSid]

sometimes a 1/4" or smaller hole the thickness of the frame deep relieves the stress and makes them pop out easier.

[ChuckDriver]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

sometimes a 1/4" or smaller hole the thickness of the frame deep relieves the stress and makes them pop out easier.

Bingo!

I have gotten the heads to "pop off" just by drilling them. I start with a small drill and step up a couple of times, and if you hit it in the center to head will come right off. I still find it easier to then drill down through it a little to get it the rest of the way out.

Dan, I couldn't grind the head completely off without scaring the frame. These ideas worked for me, but I'm sure there are better ones out there!!

[Rude Dude]

Chuck are you going to swap frames or build another one, hopefully build another one!

[Rude Dude]

Sorry Chuck I didn't read earlier post!

[ChuckDriver]

Before cutting the front cross member out, I made a fixture that bolts into the holes for the forward cab mounts, this should keep the rails from spreading or twisting after the cut.

I don't think I can strip it down any further than this!

The front frame horns were bent and twisted, so I picked up a pair from DVAP on a recent trip to AZ.

And here it is laid out in my small 2 car garage waiting for the PorterBuilt parts to be installed!

[Kim57]

I'd say that's about as far as you can take a frame down.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Yikes JJ! That's not a frame anymore it's just a pile of miscellaneous parts! Ha ha.

Will you sandblast and powder coat or do you plan to paint?

If boxing is planned will it be full boxing or partial? Knowing how cleanly you usually do stuff I'm guessing dimple dies and creative bracketry will be added, "while you're in there."

I love the idea of powdercoating but since my truck will be a (hopefully) admirable, very clean, weekend Home Depot and cruise night truck I plan on painting with Rustoleum and hardner. Why? Possible future modifications and I want to be able to easily touch up miscellaneous road rash every few years.

Can't wait to see all those sexy, expensive Porterbuilt parts going on in the inimitable JJ way!

PS: I WANT your existing nice frame with room for wider rear tires and the most excellent Mike Chesser front clip graft, but I just can't think of any way to get it all the way across country from South Carolina to Southern California that wouldn't cost as much as having someone do all the same stuff to my existing stock frame. Crap.

[Russell Ashley]

You can't get a frame any farther apart than that, LOL. I'm looking forward to see how you put it back together as I know it will be first class. You are definitely taking your truck to a higher level, not that it really needed it. As usual, give us lots of pics.

What plans do you have for you old frame? If I didn't already have a Scott's front suspension in my truck I'd be bugging you to sell it to me. Chesser's is only a few miles from me, BTW. I've met him a few times and bought a low mileage 53 Ford Flat head engine from him a few years ago. My Bro-in Law has it in his 51 F1 now.

[RockinKees]

Not much left of it
But I think it comes out 1000 percent better

[ChuckDriver]

Dan, I had the frame rails and brackets sandblasted after getting them apart, much nicer working with clean metal. Not sure if I'm going with paint or powder, still got time to decide. Frame and all PB parts will be blasted again, as they have already started to surface rust!

Dan and Russell, plans are to use the clipped frame under another truck, but that could change, depending how long it takes to get the new one done!

And the pic's. Laid out all of the PorterBuilt parts to inventory them and see how they looked. Very pleased with the quality and attention to detail!!

Can you say "Some Assembly Required"!!

And a shot of the wall in my garage.

[Number98]

Looks like Christmas morning!!!

[Mattyparty]

Daaaaaaaaammmmmnnnnnn