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Old 05-27-2014, 11:04 AM   #1
lolife99
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

COOL Dropmember video from Accuair.
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Old 06-03-2014, 07:00 AM   #2
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

I have a question when airing out. Seems when I let the front down I can get the cross memeber on the ground. But when I lower the rear it pivots on the frame and raises the crossmember up about 2 inches. Have the cab off right now.Getting ready to paint the frame. My question is is it best to let the front down and leave the rear with a little air in it to sit level?
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Old 06-03-2014, 07:06 AM   #3
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Quote:
Originally Posted by rip2174 View Post
I have a question when airing out. Seems when I let the front down I can get the cross memeber on the ground. But when I lower the rear it pivots on the frame and raises the crossmember up about 2 inches. Have the cab off right now.Getting ready to paint the frame. My question is is it best to let the front down and leave the rear with a little air in it to sit level?
Sounds like you're running an extreme dropmember?? With the front and rear completely aired out the complete mid-section of the fame should be on the ground, which should lay the truck out level. Unless you have larger than a 31" tire I believe.
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Old 06-03-2014, 07:13 AM   #4
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

yes Im running the extreme. Right now I have stock tires that are 27.5 in tall.
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Old 06-03-2014, 08:59 AM   #5
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Quote:
Originally Posted by rip2174 View Post
I have a question when airing out. Seems when I let the front down I can get the cross memeber on the ground. But when I lower the rear it pivots on the frame and raises the crossmember up about 2 inches. Have the cab off right now.Getting ready to paint the frame. My question is is it best to let the front down and leave the rear with a little air in it to sit level?
Here's ours laid out.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:58 AM   #6
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Quote:
Originally Posted by rip2174 View Post
I have a question when airing out. Seems when I let the front down I can get the cross memeber on the ground.
But when I lower the rear it pivots on the frame and raises the crossmember up about 2 inches.
Have the cab off right now.
Getting ready to paint the frame.
My question is is it best to let the front down and leave the rear with a little air in it to sit level?
I think with the full weight of the truck on the frame it will be fine.
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Old 06-03-2014, 07:33 AM   #7
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Which trailing arm cross member are you running?
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Old 06-03-2014, 07:36 AM   #8
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Portbuilt extreme with a the rear 4 link
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Old 06-03-2014, 08:06 AM   #9
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Hmm, haven't seen one rock like that. the ones I've seen sit flat on the frame rails.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:03 AM   #10
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

I have a Question also. I'm going to be using the Extreme PB Dropmembers, Front and Rear. Will I have to run a 2 piece drive shaft or can I run the one piece I have?
Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:56 AM   #11
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

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I have a Question also. I'm going to be using the Extreme PB Dropmembers, Front and Rear. Will I have to run a 2 piece drive shaft or can I run the one piece I have?
Thanks in advance for your help.
2-piece would be the easiest.
This allows the shaft to clear the bottom of the cab.

A 1-piece driveshaft would require raising the hoop in the trailing arm crossmember and "tunneling" the floor of the cab.
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:08 PM   #12
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

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2-piece would be the easiest.
This allows the shaft to clear the bottom of the cab.

A 1-piece driveshaft would require raising the hoop in the trailing arm crossmember and "tunneling" the floor of the cab.
I had considered doing the tunnel... but I dont know if I wanna cut the masterpiece of a crossmember that PB makes... ugh.
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:08 PM   #13
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Oh and thanks for the info Lolife99
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Last edited by BigDaddyV; 06-03-2014 at 12:09 PM. Reason: mis spelled words... lol
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Old 06-12-2014, 06:25 PM   #14
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Travis @azproperformance had a extreme dropmember unaccounted for on his order, just secured one. My cousin is picking up my 72 right now while I'm offshore. Nothing like coming home to a new truck and badass parts.
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Old 06-12-2014, 10:18 PM   #15
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Which part of Louisiana are you in?
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Old 06-13-2014, 09:34 AM   #16
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

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Which part of Louisiana are you in?
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Franklinton(Washington Parish) You?
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:15 AM   #17
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Jennings. Between Lafayette and Lake Charles

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Old 06-13-2014, 11:49 AM   #18
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

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Jennings. Between Lafayette and Lake Charles

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Nice. Hopefully I'm going to have a rolling chassis by Last Resort. One of my favorite shows, Stuart does an awesome job with it.
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:30 PM   #19
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Hello,

I am in the process of building my Gen V 454 and was curious as to what oil pan to use if my truck is running an extreme dropmember and rear kit? Is there another vehicle's that I can use?

Last edited by intherut; 07-03-2014 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 07-05-2014, 01:01 PM   #20
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Trans pan is level and it seems my whole motor could stand to come down a bit.
Motor looks great in there with everything level and all angles where they need to be. I think I'll be fine if I can get new mounts and shim up the carrier bearing 2" or so. Is this out of the norm? I read somewhere that porterbuilt makes different height motor mounts. Waiting on a response from them on is. Hopefully they get back to me soon. I thought about just cutting down the mounts I have and tigging them back together. I would like to try tigging something this thick but don't wanna ruin the mounts in case I have to return them.
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Old 07-05-2014, 03:55 PM   #21
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Mine looked the same way. Trans crossmember was at the top portion of the frame. I also have the body drop so I had to rework the trans tunnel and back part of the floor. I still need to get a driveline. I imagine that Dave or Nate will get back in touch with you on Monday. I know they have been extremely slammed with business. Once you get it figured out please post up your outcome to resolve. Thanks
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Old 07-05-2014, 04:44 PM   #22
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

I most definitely will post what makes it all works. I'm confident new mounts will do the trick.
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:07 PM   #23
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Ok, I used the mounts sent with the dropmember. After reading the driveline guide from porterbuilt a few times it all started making sense. I'll admit in my mind it wasn't adding up but once I put it to paper it all worked out. After a trip to the metal yard for some odds and ends I started playing around adding different stock here and there. After a few hours working through the proper equation it all worked out and everyone lined up perfectly.

Here's what I have. Please excuse the crude drawing, I went through a stack of paper getting it right.

Basicly I ended up putting a 2" spacer under the cpp transmission cross member.
Added a 2 3/8 spacer under the carrier bearing and set the trailing arms in the second hole from the top. I hope it's right. Right now I'm using square tubing to space the trans and carrier. I'm gonna try to find someone to make me something a little nicer to use.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:38 PM   #24
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

just want to post a few pics and get feedback? these pics are when aired out and the upper shock mounts where suggested to place. Against the original upper shock mount bump.

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Old 08-05-2014, 09:49 AM   #25
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Re: Porterbuilt Dropmember

Quote:
Originally Posted by rip2174 View Post
just want to post a few pics and get feedback? these pics are when aired out and the upper shock mounts where suggested to place. Against the original upper shock mount bump.

Attachment 1285857Attachment 1285858
Attachment 1285859Attachment 1285860
Attachment 1285861
Typically there is less room between the shock and the upper control arm shaft. I want to say it's closer to the 3/8" mark. This yields a much nicer angle.

I sent an email this morning offering this information, however failed to realize that the bump in the frame where the original shock stud is located will stop the bracket. On occasion we find some pretty big tolerance differences from frame to frame on these trucks. This might be what we are running into. Do me a favor and send me a new email at tech@pbfab.com and we will see if we can't figure out a solution that gets the angle more desirable without cutting or redrilling on your freshly painted frame. I would like to see the angle a little better than what you're showing.

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