Extreme Powder Coating '65 C-10 Shop Truck

[chevyrestoguy]

I prefer satin black or a matte finish titanium on frames and chassis components. A bright color like blue will look cool, but you'll be a slave to it trying to keep it looking clean and nice.

Question: Do you have drain holes in the bottom of the frame rails? Those dimple dies look awesome, but they'll be a huge water trap if the frame can't drain. The frame will rot from the inside out.

[kart34]

Got the frame all blasted up - now ready for a fresh coat of powder . . .

[c10Mang]

^^ dang. so cool.

[kart34]

I need some help ... As a custom powdercoater I have way too many choices for the color of this frame ... what color would you guys coat the frame? Really do not want black .... Silver? Rust ? Lite gray ? Red???? White ??? Flat Clear ? Hi gloss Clear ??? My thoughts on not using black are that it will not show the frame details ... dimple dies ... etc. if the frame was black. Please help!!!!!

[superflysteiny]

Satin hot rod black.

[creep]

Satin silver or a gloss gunmetal/graphite color.

[jimmydean]

Argent Silver? Maybe too much bling, but I love the way that powder lays out. I shot my buddies Blazer frame in Cardinal's Safety Yellow. It was a it much, but he loved it.

I don't think clear would look as good now that it's blasted because you have a lot of shade variation in the metal that will show up in clear.

I got it! Titanium Gray.



That isn't powder, it's ceramic but you get the idea. Love that shade.

[kart34]

Jimmy dean... that color may work how about red oxide primer ? Come on guys ? NEED HELP !!!!

[superflysteiny]

Dont do red oxide. Depends on the outside of the truck, satin silver would look good if you are going with the light blue or sky blue thats in the rendering. I think with all that metal work you have done on the inside the red would be a mistake. silver satin or satin black. These colors will look good with what ever color you decide to do the truck. Great job keep it up.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by kart34

Jimmy dean... that color may work how about red oxide primer ? Come on guys ? NEED HELP !!!!

I have a titanium powder from Tiger Drylac that lays down as smooth as wet paint and is hard as nails. Find a shade close to the brushed trim. That would look great. It would also highlight the inner wheels, too.

[Shooters_7]

Go with white as I've not seen one done that way or if your worried about showing all the dirt then go with Red!

[chevyrestoguy]

^^A white chassis? Are you serious?

Maybe for a trailer queen show car, but not for a driver. You would be under that thing with a bottle of 409 after every time you drove it. Too much dang work......

[superflysteiny]

white will not work with this truck.

[kart34]

Well you guys have to know the truck will never get painted ... the outside patina stays ....

We have drain holes in the frame.

Jimmy Dean what is the Tiger Drylac part number ?

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by kart34

Jimmy Dean what is the Tiger Drylac part number ?

I will look when I get home and let you know. I might even have a pic, too.

<edit>
RAL 7042 Drylac Part Number 49-73250

Looked a lot like this:


The finish was very smooth, baked even and the surface cleaned up perfect.

[exoticmetalworx]

I HATE YOU EXTREME POWDER COATING BUILD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
everything i was envisioning you guys pretty much have done already now all i have left is sell my panel and buy a civic thanks alot!
any ways for the frame id go with that clear or a white

[exoticmetalworx]

could you guys do a vid how the powder gets into the speed holes? that would be great!

[kart34]

Sorry Man ??? We are planning on video taping the powder application. With the new Gema Powder Gun ... we will get it to work. STAY TUNED !!!

[exoticmetalworx]

did u decide what color your shooting on the frame im specially interested because i also im going with the whole Swiss cheese theme
thanks

[jimmydean]

As clean as that frame blasted, it would do it justice with the solid finish. I think the dimple dies would also stand out with that shade of gray with some light changes.

[chevyrestoguy]

Jimmy-
Man, I like that color a LOT. It's got a very "industrial" look to it, and that's exactly what I was looking for. I like a matte or satin finish on the chassis. Not a fan of shiney chassis parts on a daily driver, because it looks awful when it gets water spotted or dirty.

What kind of coverage do you get with it? I have a bunch of TIG welded chassis parts, and I don't want to completely bury the welds with powder.

[kart34]

Just ordered some RAL 7042 ..

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Jimmy-
Man, I like that color a LOT. It's got a very "industrial" look to it, and that's exactly what I was looking for. I like a matte or satin finish on the chassis. Not a fan of shiney chassis parts on a daily driver, because it looks awful when it gets water spotted or dirty.

What kind of coverage do you get with it? I have a bunch of TIG welded chassis parts, and I don't want to completely bury the welds with powder.

When I shoot chassis parts, I usually double up my coats. In my experience with my setup, I would shoot an even first coat, bake for about 12 minutes to flow the powder, but not fully cure it. Air cool, reshoot over room temp parts (hot powder will cause the second coat to be rough) then bake for about 20. The bottom layer will fuse with the top and the top will cure.

2 layers will not be heavy in the welds. I like to make sure my coats are even and details are visible. I don't like gloss frames, either.

[chevyrestoguy]

When I shoot chassis parts, I usually double up my coats. In my experience with my setup, I would shoot an even first coat, bake for about 12 minutes to flow the powder, but not fully cure it. Air cool, reshoot over room temp parts (hot powder will cause the second coat to be rough) then bake for about 20. The bottom layer will fuse with the top and the top will cure.

2 layers will not be heavy in the welds. I like to make sure my coats are even and details are visible. I don't like gloss frames, either.

That is enlightening. I had no idea that powdered stuff can get 2 coats. I just assumed that you fogged it on once and baked it and it was done. Most of the powdercoat shops in my area don't seem to take it to the level that you do. Everything is treated like it's a production line, and they don't take the time to do it right.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

That is enlightening. I had no idea that powdered stuff can get 2 coats. I just assumed that you fogged it on once and baked it and it was done. Most of the powdercoat shops in my area don't seem to take it to the level that you do. Everything is treated like it's a production line, and they don't take the time to do it right.

I built a small setup to do custom stuff for myself and friends and even did some limited production stuff, but all my work with powder has been crazy colors for hard parts like mountain bike frame, quads, suspension parts, that sort of thing. I also have a ton of 2-part powders using a base coat with candy top coat, or metal flakes.

The nice thing about powder is it isn't done until its baked. So you can shoot a frame, see build up in a corner or a weld, just blow on it slightly until the area is uniform, or reshoot to add areas that look light, then bake.

With good product (Tiger makes nice stuff) and good equipment, you can lay powder that looks as good or better than wet paint. But if you drop a wrench on it, you won't cry.

With the equipment Greg has, I can't wait to see the level of detail that frame shows when finished. Best of all it will be wet and wipe!