Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4

[Wide Open]

Nasty - The front rotor you are using is from a SRW or DRW Dodge?

I'm pretty sure from your pictures the hat is too deep to use on my front axle

[NastyBuzzard]

SRW as far as I know.

Yes I can guarantee it is, you would have to find a rotor same OD as the dodge or similar but as deep as the stock one.

[Dieselwrencher]

I like the brake upgrades. On their site, they have no pic or description of the kit. Was it really $1253.95? If that's right, what all did it come with? Loaded calipers, mounting brackets, and rotors?

http://www.torqaxle.com/products/bra...-brake-kit.php

[NastyBuzzard]

What they list is that $1300 kit that I can only assume comes with the brackets, rotors, calipers, pretty much everything it would take. However, I called them and told them I already had all the brake parts and just needed the brackets. They just sold me the brackets for about $225 shipped. They agreed they should maybe start advertising them.

[jott_06]

I got on here to see if you figured out your rear rotors because I just watched them do a disc brake upgrade on Dirt Everyday and they put the rotor on the back side of the hub and pressed the studs through the rotor and hub. Looks like the dually rotor worked for you though

[NastyBuzzard]

Yes it did! You can do those other brakes cheap but they suck. Most don't have parking brake but if you use certain calipers you can have parking brake that you manually have to adjust and it sucks. What I'm doing should be worlds better.

[y5mgisi]

Glad the dually rotor worked out!

[NastyBuzzard]

I got one hub drilled and new studs installed!



I also got the PS kingpin out. It was not as easy as the DS. I had to beat my tool with a mini sledge both hands full force a few times before it budged the tiniest bit! But once it did move the fight was over! This one is scarred a bit more than the DS as well.



I mounted the rim on the rear to see if the original studs would be adequate. (I was told they would be.) They aren't, I wonder if I will need to drill them out and use the same studs I did for the front or if a longer stud exists for the 14BFF already that doesn't require drilling.



I also saw this truck on facebook. I had heavily considered these wheels for my truck but was unsure. Well, they don't look half bad on a square!! Requires 8x6.5 to 8x170 2" adapter/spacer but still.



I started putting the new Ujoints in my half shafts. What a pain in the ass. Also started cleaning up my knuckles. I need to get all seals/bearings and what not on order.

[83GMCK2500]

Looks like some good progress. What size is the allen to remove those kingpins?

Some of the 2011+ wheels are being made in the classic 8x6.5 pattern in the aftermarket. I've seen them on another forum but never got the name of the company, I think the guy said he found them on ebay.

Do you have a picture of your rear hub & studs handy? I might be able to poke around the parts catalog and see if a longer factory stud exists.

[NastyBuzzard]

7/8 allen wrench for the kingpin. The one I bought was $35 shipped from MCmaster carr but it really did make it pretty easy to remove the king pins.

Here is the pic, those are the stock rear studs. Normally they have to go through the drum then the hub now they go through the hub then the rotor so that has to be considered with knurl and what not.. I need about 1/2" or so more of threads at the least.

[83GMCK2500]

Still have 9/16" studs, right?

Eyeballing your tape your's look to be ~3" long. That is stud: 3988358 (GM P/N)

There exists, stud: STUD, RR WHL (SERRATED) (9/16-18X3.59 LGTH); P/N: 355815 Dually application, and they sound like the length you're looking for. There is a guy on ebay selling 4 packs for $4.55, looks like cheapest option.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Still have 9/16" studs, right?

Eyeballing your tape your's look to be ~3" long. That is stud: 3988358 (GM P/N)

There exists, stud: STUD, RR WHL (SERRATED) (9/16-18X3.59 LGTH); P/N: 355815 Dually application, and they sound like the length you're looking for. There is a guy on ebay selling 4 packs for $4.55, looks like cheapest option.

Yes still 9/16, I would never step down a size and 5/8 seems way too big. I thought about going metric but I really like the 9/16 thread.

I will look into it for sure! That's nice and cheap compared to the ones I run up front now.

[NastyBuzzard]

I got the new UJoints in the front shafts. It took me way too long even with using a press.



I picked up some DRW studs bc I needed longer studs for the rear. Man they would be perfect to use up front on the 60 if they were threaded all the way... I was hoping they could work as to not have to drill out the dana 60 hubs but looks like no other real option besides the 610-303 studs. Oh well it was a thought!



Also, I have spent a lot of mula on the front end, all new bearings, seals, ujoints so I wanted to pop the cover and make sure I didn't have pitted gears or the teeth be thinned out or anything. Looks good to me though!



So what studs or whatever I need to get for the king pin stuff? I have heard a few recommendations to swap over to studs. I am not a D60 expert.

[Flatpat]

I put High Country wheels on one of mine. Looked pretty good need 8x6.5 to 8x180 I used 1.5" all the way around but on a 4x4 I'd probably go 2.5" in the rear.

imag

[NastyBuzzard]

Those look amazing!! & Damn I am jealous of your yard! Those new model wheels fit the crew cab just fine. I really like my dodge 17s but I would love to step it up to 20" wheels or so but nothing too fancy. However, all $ right now has to go into getting it driveable.

[obijuan]

studs are nice to have for the ubolt plate instead of bolts because you get full thread engagement into the housing. for the knuckles, i wouldnt use anything but studs.

[mcmlxix]

wheel stud list from Dorman with all the specs
list
https://static.dormanproducts.com/do...Attributes.pdf

pictures and part numbers

http://www.billavista.com/tech/pdf_i...%20Catalog.pdf

[NastyBuzzard]

Very good info thank you.

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by NastyBuzzard

Very good info thank you.

Yeah. I made the mistake of reading the Pirate4x4 site and upgrading to 5/8 wheel studs in front.. OVERKILL for me and the level of abuse the Blazer will see. If I redo the front hubs I'll get some metric 14mm studs to match the late model rear end....

[NastyBuzzard]

Yeah I saw that and I agree 5/8 studs are insane overkill but I understand the mistakes of reading Pirate4x4 lol. All those beefy upgrades look tempting but I am not doing what most of them do to their vehicles.

Any reason you can see why we couldn't use the 610-194.1 wheel stud (drw 14bolt stud) instead of the 610-303 studs? The 194.1s wouldn't require drilling.

[NastyBuzzard]

I had a bolt break off in the PS knuckle. I tried to drill it and use an easy out but long story short I screwed up and drilled at an angle and it may be screwed up. Anyone have a spare PS knuckle I can buy? This blows.



I spent all day Saturday though finally wiring up a breaker box inside the shop as well as running wire for my lights, finally!! Those LEDs have been mounted for a year now and never been cut off. No more string lights, finally I can walk in and flip a switch for lights. I am working on doing outlets now.

From this.



To this.

[83GMCK2500]

That knuckle may yet be saveable. Not sure where your skills begin/end but I'd bet a competent person/shop could weld a nut to that broken piece and get it out, or set it up in a mill and get it out. Would probably have to put a stud in that hole, but I don't think that's an issue. If not, maybe hit up the big offroad forums like Pirate and find someone who upgraded to Dedenbear/Reid knuckles and has the stockers for sale.

NICE lighting. Always makes such a difference, being able to see what you're working on.

[obijuan]

I've got dodge and Chevrolet knuckles for sale as pairs if you decide to replace em

[NastyBuzzard]

I think the lighting makes a world of difference! Now if I can get some more outlets! So tired of all the drop cords.

I think it is salvageable too. I am going to try and weld and pull it out. We have a mill at work too I can try but we will have to see. I was just hoping to find another knuckle quick and cheap but no dice.

[mcmlxix]

I heli-coiled one of the holes on one of my knuckles... but the bolt came out ok...

Maybe just upgrade to some Reid Racing knuckles... only $600 for a pair....