New project! The "Red Herring"

[Advanced Design]

Nice finds in the salvage yard. The terminals / grounding block will be pretty handy. I'm going to need a positive for under the hood and gotta admit, I wasn't thinking of finding one in a yard. Thanks for the reminder.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Very nice, it will look better than factory when you are done.

Thanks! I sure hope it will - or at least look as neat as a factory rig. Lots of time to try and make it that way

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Nice finds in the salvage yard. The terminals / grounding block will be pretty handy. I'm going to need a positive for under the hood and gotta admit, I wasn't thinking of finding one in a yard. Thanks for the reminder.

My pleasure! I'll admit that idea shopping at the yard is something I really enjoy doing - I just go over there with an idea of what I need to do, and see what strikes my fancy!

[JJorgensen52]

Data call! Anybody with a stock frame 1/2 ton AD truck - I need a few measurements:

Width of the rear frame rails at the bumper brackets
Distance from the top of the frame rail to the bumper brackets
Distance from rear cross sill to the rear bumper (at the center of the truck)

Thanks in advance!

[FarmerSid]

I was given some help with measurements a while back on my build. Of those you need, 46 1/6" is the width of the frame at the very back. I cant help out on the the other two as I don't have a bumper or brackets yet.

[Chevy-49]

I have the frame in storage, bumper and bracket on the attic.

Can measure it on Saturday, hope this helps You.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

I was given some help with measurements a while back on my build. Of those you need, 46 1/6" is the width of the frame at the very back. I cant help out on the the other two as I don't have a bumper or brackets yet.

I have a (VERY bent) bumper and no frame - Thanks for the measurement, that will get me started at least.

Originally Posted by Chevy-49

I have the frame in storage, bumper and bracket on the attic.

Can measure it on Saturday, hope this helps You.

If you could, that would be great! Hope the truck is coming along well.

[Chevy-49]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

I have a (VERY bent) bumper and no frame - Thanks for the measurement, that will get me started at least.

If you could, that would be great! Hope the truck is coming along well.

As promised, first get the bumper and brackets from the attic to find out that I did not open the boxes before...



I haven't seen the frame in a time so its good to see it again.



Wrenching time....., bumper and bracket to the frame and get measurements.





With of the frame is 117,4 cm, is the same as FarmerSid mentioned, see for other measurements attached drawing.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by Chevy-49

As promised, first get the bumper and brackets from the attic to find out that I did not open the boxes before...

With of the frame is 117,4 cm, is the same as FarmerSid mentioned, see for other measurements attached drawing.

Richard, this is perfect! Thank you!

[JJorgensen52]

These photos may not look like much, but that means I did it right





The entire underhood harness is pinned and run to where it needs to go - I just have a handful of loose ends (the power solenoid for the fuse panel and the proportioning valve wire) which aren't hooked up yet, because the things they go to aren't mounted yet!

I still have a LOT of taping, looming and wrapping to do, but this is a major milestone in the wiring

[FarmerSid]

Looking good JJ! Man I'm not looking forward to the wiring part of my build.

[lower50's]

That looks amazingly factory. Great job

[Advanced Design]

Neat, clean, factory...a lotta effort to get it there. Well done!

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Looking good JJ! Man I'm not looking forward to the wiring part of my build.

I'm ready to be done with it

Originally Posted by lower50's

That looks amazingly factory. Great job

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Neat, clean, factory...a lotta effort to get it there. Well done!

Thanks, guys! The devil is in the details, as they say, and it's encouraging to share what I do with the boards because when it's all said and done, I know a lot of these things will get overlooked. Gotta do it right

Tonight, only had a short bit but I did a lot of tinkering and fitting on the inside of the truck, figuring out where everything needs wiring to run to. To that end, installed the wiper motor (Yes, I got lazy and bought a conversion motor ), and it looked like it wasn't going to clear the gauges, so I had to break those out and try them for clearance:


The upper connector body wouldn't fit with the wiper motor where it is, but fortunately the speedometer doesn't use that connector so I've had my hand forced as to which gauge goes where, but it all fits. Phew!!

Took a couple shots for the feel, first time I've tried the gauges in the truck and I am as pleased as could be!

[lower50's]

Those gauges look real nice mounted in there home finally.

[Advanced Design]

JJ, did you move your column a little to the left so it is spaced evenly between the gauges?

The gauges look great!

I was looking mine over and I guess I didn't recall the factory dash mount location is a little right of center between the gauges.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Those gauges look real nice mounted in there home finally.

Thanks Lowers! Now I just have to get caught up to you, running engines and working gauges and all

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

JJ, did you move your column a little to the left so it is spaced evenly between the gauges?

The gauges look great!

I was looking mine over and I guess I didn't recall the factory dash mount location is a little right of center between the gauges.

Thanks Doug! Yes, guilty as charged. Those sorts of little asymmetric details drive me absolutely BATTY, so it had to be centered. Of course, once I deleted the recess in the dash (where it was cracked) it was a blank canvas, anyway

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

Thanks Doug! Yes, guilty as charged. Those sorts of little asymmetric details drive me absolutely BATTY, so it had to be centered. Of course, once I deleted the recess in the dash (where it was cracked) it was a blank canvas, anyway

Thanks JJ, I gotta do the same on this one...all things in balance. And it will help with getting the intermediate shaft system past the exhaust.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Thanks JJ, I gotta do the same on this one...all things in balance. And it will help with getting the intermediate shaft system past the exhaust.

Yes, that was the other major motivator for me. My engine cradle is wide enough I was able to use a one piece shaft (and the 2010 Camaro manifolds), but without moving the column it wouldn't have cleared. Just remember, you saw it here first

Mounted up the keyless entry control box:

The box I am using (looks just like this one but has a second connector) is a 95-96 model year only unit, common to Tahoes and Suburbans of that vintage, it does keyless locks and also delayed illumination on unlock and door open - will be a nice modern touch.

Also set up this little bracket:

The flasher block came from a '96 S10 truck, I'm pretty sure it's '95-'97 range - anyways, holds two standard flashers and a GM headlight buzzer (not sure if I'm going to install that or not, but I'll wire it up since it will take all of two extra minutes). I modified it a little to make it fit in the bracket.

I'm going to weld it up on top of the brake pedal support (bad photo) so it's out of sight but still reachable:


Speaking of interior lights, anybody have any good ideas for door jamb switches and running wires into the doors? I've looked at a couple different "hot rod" wire conduits but none of them will work with how tight these door jambs are

[lower50's]

I'll be using something like this next time when I paint my truck. They are from something like a mini van sliding door.
Amazon.com: Painless 40024 Jamb Tac Four Contact...

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by lower50's

I'll be using something like this next time when I paint my truck. They are from something like a mini van sliding door.
Amazon.com: Painless 40024 Jamb Tac Four Contact Wireless Connector: Automotive

I've seen those, but based on some experience with GM SUVs with barn doors, I'm kind of shy of them ... it is a thought though! Do you have wiring into your doors now?

[99 to Life]

I thought about those too, but just ran wiring through the hinge. I'v had no problems yet.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

I thought about those too, but just ran wiring through the hinge. I'v had no problems yet.

Did you just lay it on the hinge and tape or tie it somehow? I was looking at making a sheetmetal cover to attach to the lower hinge to run wires underneath, on top of the hinge itself.

[99 to Life]

I'd have to find or take a pic, I ran it on top of hinge. Loomed it. I was skeptical on the route at first. But my doors and jams were already painted. I have had no problems with it.

[lower50's]

I'm just putting a loop on the inside of the door and under the dash. Same as 99 my doors where already painted oops.

[JJorgensen52]

That seems to be the way of it, haha! I imagine just a loop inside the cowl would be enough? Seems like the wires in the doors shouldn't be moving about, to speak of. Hrrrrrm