Post Your Straight Six Pics!

[VWNate1]

First and foremost :

Make sure it's properly tuned ! maybe one in every 100 engines i touch , are anywhere near properly tuned .

If it has points set the plugs gaps to .040 or .045 , if HEI , set to .050 or .060 ,
you'll feel the increased power immediately .

If it has points , make sure the points gap isn't over .014 as closer gap makes for better coil saturation , resulting in hotter sparks .

Timing is critical too , unlike the average 350 SBC , a 250 needs very little primary lead advance to create peak power @ work ~ what this means is : don't give it 12 degrees lead advance (static or dynamic) , try it @ TDC first then maybe give it a few degrees .

The biggest bang for your buck is to upgrade from breaker points ignition to HEI , even if just an old stock dizzy & coil .

You've always gotta do the basics before moving on and be aware , these are
light duty engines so Hot Rodding them leads to extremely short service life and to loose nut behind the wheel , blaming the truck instead of themselves .

[VWNate1]

Oh yeah :

Never forget that more power = worse fuel economy , before you said you wanted better fuel economy , choose one and stick to it ! .

.

[50bomb]

A few reasons why I wanted my l6 was becasue for better fuel mileage,nice cruiser/NO need for speed..better than walkin,and plus they are just that much cooler than a v8. I do not know why but they remind me of an old WW2 fighter plane, maybe cause of the sound. IONO ...I still have not got mine running. It should have been along time ago but I been unemployed and I just cant get the little things done. My Life Story.

[VWNate1]

No worries , take your time and go slow , there's always little things to do , cleaning and so on .

FWIW , you needn't run any mufflers atall on an L6 if you like the musical exhaust note ~ just don't have a shot tailpipe and the Cops will never bother you , I used to drive my scruffy old '46 3100 fully loaded in Bel Air sans muffler and never got pulled over .

[50bomb]

Right now I have around 4-4 1/2 feet of pipe no muffler. Just to have something on there till I can drive it over to the muffler shop and I dont want to cruise it without proper piping length maybe just test drive around my cultasac . I was thinkin about welding some 2" piping to a smithy's long glass pack. I dont know yet if I trust my welding and my not so good skills haha. I like alil sound but not to loud.

[zebco]

Almost ready for installation.

['68OrangeSunshine]

I used to run 2 Weiand steel packs. Sounded mean. I was a college kid so I had no bread for muffler shops: I just wedged them over the collector ends of both headers, and held the aft end up by baling wire [or coat hanger wire] wrapped around the trailing arms. Rough RR crossings were my bane. I once dropped one --when the baling wire broke-- on the street and backed up to pick it up out of the road. A squad car passed my by, they were laughing their @sses off. I was lucky they didn't bust me; it was about 0300, IIRC.
Later in the '80s I went whole hog at the 4x4 fabricators. I had them resurface my Clifford headers, make up a cross-over pipe [more like the Russian 'N', than an 'H'] after the trans and splice in a pair of turbo mufflers with 1-7/8 tubes exiting behind the rear tires at a 45* angle so I could look at the exhaust color thru the WC rearviews.
Still set up like that.

[pritch]

A milestone today! Engine and transmission together and in place.







There's still much to do, though. I've been trying to talk myself into an injection system, and I'm waiting for that decision before I pop for an intake and headers.

Question I just thought of-if I go with an injection system, will that computer run this 200R transmission, or would I still need to do the relays and brake switch wiring thing?

Oh yeah-my kid and his kid came over to help me lift in the trans.

WARNING!!! CUTE GRANDKID PICTURES BELOW!!!

Brigg lends a helping hand:



Brigg's first greasy face and hands:

[VWNate1]

Fuel Injection wins hands down e very time , easier starting hot or cold , more power , better fuel economy , on and on and......

Remember : one injector per port , try to avoid those nasty , crappy throttle body squirt things at all costs .

Looking good , both your truck and your Grandson .

[yunkyarddog]

im in

[zebco]

What brake booster are you guys using? I have an 11" diameter booster and I'm afraid it will interfere with my four barrel carb. In some of the photos it appears that some of the boosters bolt directly to the firewall. I have a bracket that I assumed would allow it to work. After some preliminary measurements I'm not so sure. Need advice. Thanks.
Herb

[zebco]

bump

[erick-1]

Here's mine.

[DA INFERNO]

Originally Posted by zebco

Almost ready for installation.

Which transmission is that?

[sixtyeightchevykid]

mine..i dont have pics of what it looks like now, i will work on that

[zebco]

1988 T-5 from an S-10.

[Frijolito1988]

Originally Posted by zebco

1988 T-5 from an S-10.

How are those T5 ? Pretty reliable ? any modifications needed ?

[zebco]

Not sure on reliability, this is my first. You'll need a 14 spline clutch disc, the short throwout bearing and the taller type of pressureplate. I used centerforce stuff. This transmission is 3" longer than the threespeed it replaces. Shorten the driveshaft by 3 ".
I may fabricate a crossmember for the transmission but the original mounts may be OK. I have not installed it yet. You'll need one from an S-10 because of the shifter location.

[zebco]

Anyone have any brake booster info?

[Frijolito1988]

Originally Posted by zebco

Not sure on reliability, this is my first. You'll need a 14 spline clutch disc, the short throwout bearing and the taller type of pressureplate. I used centerforce stuff. This transmission is 3" longer than the threespeed it replaces. Shorten the driveshaft by 3 ".
I may fabricate a crossmember for the transmission but the original mounts may be OK. I have not installed it yet. You'll need one from an S-10 because of the shifter location.

Got it, reason i ask is because we just got a 67 I6 with a 5 speed. Good to know now atleat its from a S10.

We have power brakes, disc brakes up front in our I6

I thinkt he PO put in the complete front suspension from a 73-87. Will get measurements later.

[zebco]

Frijolito, get me some measurements on your brake booster and bracket setup if you don't mind. Diameter and bracket depth and any offset. Thanks.

[VWNate1]

I don't see what your problem is , the V-ate engine is wider than the 4 BBL carby and it never touches .

[zebco]

VWNate, The aftermarket 6 cyl. intakes have longer runners and therefore move the carb further to the right as you face the truck. The carb also sits a lot higher than a V8 valve cover.

[50bomb]

Okay I replaced my oil pan gasket. Made sure to scrape all the old gasket off. I had to do this while under my truck because oil pan has no room to remove. Well it leaked because I over cut the rear rubber seal. So i bought a new gasket kit just to use the rear seal. Well I cut it correct this time and made sure to let dry over night before tigtening down. Well the darn seal keeps popping out at a certain section of it. What am I doing wrong? Oil leaks when i start the truck. I am frustrated what I thought was an easy job!

[slick copper]

Hey Zebco! I'm planning to convert to disc/disc on my 67. Running a stock 250 with 1 barrel carb. Currently using the stock booster/MC combo, but I'm running a unstock chrome aircleaner. Had to use some adapters and spacers to raise it up to give some clearance. Here's my current setup, and a pic of what I'm going to go with. As you can see I don't have much clearance right now. Maybe only 1 to a half inch. Going with 8" booster combo. They do make it in a zinc plated or black version. Ebay.