Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

You could or don't bother with the padding at all you could use a stick on or spray on sound deadener perhaps?

Merry Christmas Brett,
I was going to ask that. I could just weld up the holes and use a Dynomat or equivalent. I would just have to I do something on the column seal, right?

[DWilbur]

I forgot to post the pictures of my firewall. I still have to drill the hole for vintage air.

[First c10]

Thanks David. That is what I plan on doing but first I need to get the cab corners and rockers corrected from the PO. Been working on the cab corners today.

[First c10]

After I cut out the lower rear door jab that was replaced by the PO but was over laid and than welded. Not butt welded.

[First c10]

You can see where the floor corner was replaced and just over laid and welded...I have cut out the over laps and welded it like it should be. Or at least how I think it should be.

[First c10]

Here it is welded up. After I grind it down it should be flat like it was never touched... I hope.

[RedRoad]

Just heat up that bondo with a torch and use a scraper to scrape it off. Less dust and if its the real old bondo there is no asbestos risk

[First c10]

The rear view of the cab with the cab corner removed.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by RedRoad

Just heat up that bondo with a torch and use a scraper to scrape it off. Less dust and if its the real old bondo there is no asbestos risk

Hey RR. Thanks for the heads up. I will try that.

[First c10]

Good morning and Happy New Year's eve eve guys,

Got a chance to work on the truck last night for a few hours. Man the time goes by fast and it doesn't even look like I did anything!!!
1st picture (sorry its a little blurry) is when I fixed the PO overlap weld behind the cab corner. I cut it out, coated the floor brace and butt welded it back together.

Onto the Cab pictures...

I worked on the passenger door alignment before I add the cab corner and rocker.
Problem I am having is that the upper window frame is hitting the cab. see picture 3. I think the door need to be moved back towards the back of the cab. To do this I will have to open the holes on the hinges a little.

Has anyone had this problem that could respond to my question???

I am sure someone has...

I would like to get this door adjusted tonight so I can work on the cab corner and rocker.

After all the metal work then its off to the body guy and out of my hair.

Update tomorrow hopefully.... ON

[Nitis]

not sure how the gap measures on the rear of the door but it looks like you just need to rotate the door counter clockwise a smidgin

adjust the upper hinge?

[First c10]

Originally Posted by Nitis

not sure how the gap measures on the rear of the door but it looks like you just need to rotate the door counter clockwise a smidgin

adjust the upper hinge?

I adjusted and adjusted and adjusted while I was getting the cab corner and the rocker aligned.

It's a lot better but still too close. I am going to finish getting the cab door and fender aligned and than I will address the window frame and/or A pillar.

[First c10]

A view of the door aligned with the rocker and cab corner. Not yet welded in

[First c10]

Cab corner tack welded.

[First c10]

Close up of the first set of tack welds. I took my time and planished the welds as I went. What do you know everyone that says to do it is for a reason lol.

I am figuring it out.
Now I just need to remember to switch from 36 grit to 80 before sanding down to the sheetmetal.

[First c10]

Not bad gaps. I took the rocker off and it was a GM replacement. Even had the sticker inside. So I cleaned it up and am going tot reuse it.
I the picture the rocker is not seated all the way. The bottom gap is not that big.

[morgan71]

Originally Posted by First c10

I adjusted and adjusted and adjusted while I was getting the cab corner and the rocker aligned.

It's a lot better but still too close. I am going to finish getting the cab door and fender aligned and than I will address the window frame and/or A pillar.

Same thing happened to the passenger side of my cab. The top rubs the pillar with a huge gap at the rear. Previous owner did a rocker repair and I suspect the rear of the cab sagged when he cut it out. I believe the same thing has happened here. Cut loose the rear of the rocker and also where the cab meets the floor. The front of the cab will have to be pulled forward while the aft is picked up. Not sure if this makes sense but it should close up that rear gap and give some room in the front. Then the door will need readjusted. I haven't repaired mine yet but I think I'm gonna use a porta power in conjunction with cargo straps ,pushing and pulling. I hope some of this made sense

[First c10]

Originally Posted by morgan71

Same thing happened to the passenger side of my cab. The top rubs the pillar with a huge gap at the rear. Previous owner did a rocker repair and I suspect the rear of the cab sagged when he cut it out. I believe the same thing has happened here. Cut loose the rear of the rocker and also where the cab meets the floor. The front of the cab will have to be pulled forward while the aft is picked up. Not sure if this makes sense but it should close up that rear gap and give some room in the front. Then the door will need readjusted. I haven't repaired mine yet but I think I'm gonna use a porta power in conjunction with cargo straps ,pushing and pulling. I hope some of this made sense

Good morning and thank you for the comment.
Yes I understand as I was thinking the same thing. (Great minds think alike and there are a lot of those around here.) That was one reason I hung the door and started aligning before welding anything. I was able to move the back of the cab, rocker, and door around. I did align everything yesterday and get it welded in. The gaps are a lot better. I am going to open up the hinge holes to allow the door to go back towards the latch this will also help out with the top of my cab and window frame.

Now that I am about down with the cab corners and doors. Now on to the filling holes on the firewall and cut the low hump out and install the high hump. Once this is done I am going to put the cab on the frame and see if everything clears before I send the body off to get it body worked.

[First c10]

Here is a picture of the door cab gap after all the adjusting. Not to bad.
But had enough with the cab corners and doors so decided to take a break and work on the center hump.

[First c10]

Had to make sure that it would fit. I did have to bend the seating area to match the trans tunnel curvature.

[First c10]

Outlined the high hump location on the floor. I will cut about 2" inside the black lines and will drill the holes for the bolts. I am going to weld nuts on the body and use button head bolts on the inside to hold it down. I think 5/16" is original. I may use 3/8" though.

[First c10]

Made the filler piece to fill the stock transmission shifter hole.

[First c10]

Got the filler piece welded up. It got late last night and cold so I forgot to take a picture after it was ground smooth. The wife is going to hang with a friend so I am going back to work on the truck.

[First c10]

Worked on making sure the doors,fenders and cowl fit. I was suprised how well it fit, or course the cab is not on the frame but we got an idea. We made sure the front fenders and grill were square with the cab according to my measurements I was off 1/8" on 1 side which makes is actually 1/16". I am very happy with that now I hope it stays that way after it painted.

[First c10]

Worked on welding up all the unwanted holes in the firewall. I did not want screws sticking through from the steering column grommet. So I threaded the hole and installed 10/24 studs in and welded them up.