57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[dsraven]

also, don't get the cables all strung up and tied down too tightly because they can self apply if the cables tighten up with suspension movement, like over a bump when the cable needs to lengthen to make up for suspension moving the wheel away from the frame. look under a new truck and you will see the cable tidiness is not that great, it's for a reason.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

check post 2

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ble-route.html

Good link I was looking for something like that earlier but dont think that will work for me now ....

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

also, don't get the cables all strung up and tied down too tightly because they can self apply if the cables tighten up with suspension movement, like over a bump when the cable needs to lengthen to make up for suspension moving the wheel away from the frame. look under a new truck and you will see the cable tidiness is not that great, it's for a reason.

So if I put the frame on jack stands and cycle the rear and make sure it doesnt bind ---- should be good right ?

[dsraven]

should be, but be aware that a fully compressed one side and a fully released other side may make a difference too. not that it would ever happen, just precautionary. in the end the cables need room to breath and not get stretched or rub on other moving parts like springs, shocks etc. it is why some manufacturers take the cables and follow the suspension track bar or leaf spring up to it's pivot point on the frame before heading their separate ways. that way the cables can't get stretched by moving independently of the suspension parts.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

should be, but be aware that a fully compressed one side and a fully released other side may make a difference too. not that it would ever happen, just precautionary. in the end the cables need room to breath and not get stretched or rub on other moving parts like springs, shocks etc. it is why some manufacturers take the cables and follow the suspension track bar or leaf spring up to it's pivot point on the frame before heading their separate ways. that way the cables can't get stretched by moving independently of the suspension parts.

Thx.
The part that confuses me on the setup (original) in post #412 and in the link you sent.

If you pull on the single main cable ....... it pulls the wire through the sheething on the drivers side. I dont see what mecahnism allows it to "pull" on the passenger side ....... as its sliding in an out of the sheething of the drivers side.

Hard to explain ........ they are linked together ........ but because it slides within the sheething ...... it never pulls on the passenger side. Obviously in real life it does - but I couldn't get that setup to work.... not sure whta it was missing.

[dsraven]

Main cable pulls till it gets resistance then the other side pulls because it's easier than the main cable at that point. It works.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Main cable pulls till it gets resistance then the other side pulls because it's easier than the main cable at that point. It works.

But physically how (just wondering if Im missing a part).

So take the top pic of the link you sent.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ble-route.html

The cable is sheathed by the top wire.
When the front pulls --- its pulls the cable through and tightens that brake.

The bottom one though - is not attached to the cable directly. its attached to the sheath (effectively) via the coupler.

So how would it ever get pulled tighter ? Unless the whole top line sheath eventual pulls from right to left .......

[FAKKY]

looks like Im not the only guy woith same issue



https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?t=79981


Funny part is the pulley system I built works fine. Ill probably end up going that route but hate that I feel like Im missing a part or understanding something..

[FAKKY]

Friggin figured it out .......

Between the photos and the pics linked here ...... and dsraven quote ....

"Main cable pulls till it gets resistance then the other side pulls because it's easier than the main cable at that point. It works."

I didn't realize how important the bracket is in this setup. I smoked a salmon, drank four beers and sat under the truck for 3 hours trying different configurations. In the end the bracket keeps both tight together but gives you the slack at the rear to allow the suspension to cycle.

Wow.

[FAKKY]

"Hidden" rocker switch in for ebrake.

[59chev]

Great idea!!!

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by 59chev

Great idea!!!

Ha ! Thx man I thought so ...... I was going to cut on the face side .... but wife was like why dont you do it this way.


On to stainless exhaust ......... my welding has NOT got any better in the last couple months of not welding/practicing.
But its not structural and should seal the C02/O2

lol

[FAKKY]

Any tricks for exhuast clearance over axle ? Got to fit two 3" boys in here ....




The brake line tab needs to be welded to frame ........ but is temp at this point a problem for the brake line .... thinking it will be.

[FAKKY]

Making progress. Looks good.

[dsraven]

I would say heat shield the trans and anything else subjected to exhaust heat. there are some wraps as well as metal shielding. some transmissions come with a heat shield on the passenger's side maybe a retrofit would be possible there. I have seen a few builds where the pipes are run outside the frame to go over the rear axle.

a few posts back you mentioned you smoked a salmon and drank a few beers before you figured out the brake cable issue. just curious, how long do you have to dry a salmon before you can roll it and smoke it, haha.

nice job on the rocker switch location.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I would say heat shield the trans and anything else subjected to exhaust heat. there are some wraps as well as metal shielding. some transmissions come with a heat shield on the passenger's side maybe a retrofit would be possible there. I have seen a few builds where the pipes are run outside the frame to go over the rear axle.

a few posts back you mentioned you smoked a salmon and drank a few beers before you figured out the brake cable issue. just curious, how long do you have to dry a salmon before you can roll it and smoke it, haha.

nice job on the rocker switch location.

Because I didnt opt for a C Notch rear end ...... clearance is low wondering if I will have to wrap the rear brake lines ........ TBD.

I'll probably do as you say from back of headers until reaches past the trans ...... wrap it.

Salmon - man -I have never smoked it before ...... but really is quite easy .... and comes out great ..... cream cheese and capers ...... heck if you have to roll it you rollit !!

Bought some 1/4 stainless threaded rod ...... will make my hangers from that

[FAKKY]

So have to go and get my driveshaft made/ordered.
Before i do that need to ensure that the axle is in correct position (centered) and the drive angle is good for measurement.

So guess best way would be like this ?

Get truck as level on ground as possible.
Engine at around 3 degrees up
Place differential around 3 degrees up

Use string or measure from front tire to back tire on both sides to ensure equal from front.
Same again for axle on center pins - equal distance from pins. Clamp down.
Then measure distance from output shaft to 8.8 flange as per driveshaft builder requirements.

About it.

Then when i get the driveshaft - adjust the rear up.down as required to best get right driveline operating angles here

https://spicerparts.com/calc/driveline/index.html

Obviously hoping not have to adjust much at all else then might have DS length issue.

[dsraven]

Truck sitting at ride height on a level floor
Engine 3 deg down at rear
Axle 3 deg up at front
One angle cancels the other angle
Take slip yoke and slip it into rear of trans appropriate amount
Flange adapter on 8.8, assume you have the flat pinion yoke like explorers have, so bolt on the rear flange part from the explorer shaft
Measure from middle of u joint bearing on front to same on rear
Or just trailer the whole thing to the driveline shop and say
Make me a shaft

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Truck sitting at ride height on a level floor

Or just trailer the whole thing to the driveline shop and say
Make me a shaft

Ha ! Thats cheating
Plus hauling the truck on tailer with this might be hard.

https://www.autoblog.com/buy/2014-Mazda-CX_5/specs/





Just placed my order ............
3.5 shaft
8.8 rear flange
1350 spicer joints
27 spline slip

$425

[FAKKY]

Get this wired up an bracket bolted/welded in. Works great now.

https://youtu.be/7x4s0-xjg14

[FAKKY]

Driveshaft in.
If I can get the brakes tested and the acclerator pedal mocked in ...... might be able to 'push' it gently around the block

[FAKKY]

Need some thoughts/ideas on exhuast routing and tire.
Looks like current setup wont allow for a full size spare. I think Id just have to get new bolts on each side of the carrier to allow an extra couple inches tire thickness.
Then just clearance to bottom. Looks fine ? Lowest point is the exhaust muffler by design.



thinking of running the exhaust down the same side and dumping out the back with a turndown but mostly hidden. i.e turn these at the top with a 90.

[FAKKY]

dropped the left side as much the bolt would go.


Not sure - could get another bolt/threaded rod but its gonna be tight on clearance probably level with the diff or even slightly below.

Might have to look for a spare tire thats as close in height as I can get .... but an inch skinnier.
These measure 9.5 inches wide (tire)

Maybe a 205/80/R16
Worst case a skinny spare ...... 165/90/R17

[dsraven]

skinny spare. not gonna need it anyway hopefully, just insurance. or keep it at home, accessible easily, and then call somebody to bring it to you if you get a flat, if you only plan to drive around the area. longer trips, mmneeyah, maybe need a spare. mount inside maybe? keep a can of that tire goop instead? messy, I know, but maybe get you home or to a tire shop closeby with no spare.
consider proximity to other things on the exhaust routing, including the spare, brake lines/hoses, park brake cables etc. might need some shielding around stuff.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

skinny spare. not gonna need it anyway hopefully, just insurance. or keep it at home, accessible easily, and then call somebody to bring it to you if you get a flat, if you only plan to drive around the area. longer trips, mmneeyah, maybe need a spare. mount inside maybe? keep a can of that tire goop instead? messy, I know, but maybe get you home or to a tire shop closeby with no spare.
consider proximity to other things on the exhaust routing, including the spare, brake lines/hoses, park brake cables etc. might need some shielding around stuff.

Plan to wrap the exhaust over the axle, also at the transmission ..... everywhere else its at least 2-3" off.

I went and picked up a free wheel/tire. A bust because offset wasnt right ... but gave me a look at a 8.5" wide tire versus a 9.5" tire. Huge difference, ths would almost work.
Only concern would be the bottom left carrier hinge to frame. I think I could tighten it up a little with the tire at less than full air PSI.



that was a 215/70/15 - 8.5" wide tire

So I think I need to go with a 205/80R16 - thats 8.1" and same 29" height.
Should give me the width clearance.

I hate goop - will never use that ever again Always carry tire plugs and a compressor with me now.