"Elwood" the 77_remix

[N2TRUX]

I received the Slosh Tubz fender filler panels this week. last night I had a chance to see if my template making was successful. Fortunately mike was able to decipher my intentions and straighten out my wobbly lines. I did have some minor adjustments to make, but the end result was a good fit.

Before installing the filler panels, I adjusted the firewall panel. I added temporary screws till we can get the final piece designed. It will be reverse bead rolled to give clearance for the factory blower fan protrusion. There will be a recessed area for the Restomod Air bulkhead as well.

[N2TRUX]

Last night I got one step closer to finishing the passenger side Slosh Tubz filler panel install. I had failed to mark the cut out for the battery tray mounts on the template I sent Mike. That meant I had to cut slowly and carefully.
After making 99 adjustments, the battery tray is mounted. I'll make new templates with all the mods before these go in to full production

[N2TRUX]

This week I received a nice surprise in my email. I had worked with Carter Hickman to design the wheels for Elwood. He put togther a digital image to give a visual of what they would look like on the truck. I think he nailed it on the design.

[67cheby]

hmmm... that rust mort is pretty cool , going to have to check that out

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

hmmm... that rust mort is pretty cool , going to have to check that out

It does what its supposed to do. This is the third time I have used it for the same application. I use a wire wheel to get it clean as possible, then treat it with Rust Mort. It neutralizes the rust that remains, and I seal it with primer. Problem solved.

[N2TRUX]

Yesterday I started the day with more Slosh Tubz panel work. The drivers side seemed like it would be easier, but of course it was not. I had to deal with several obstacles while taking it in and out a couple dozen times to get a good fit. Now that I have them trimmed down, I can make fresh templates for Mike. The next set should require much less trimming.

[N2TRUX]

I hate when you get to a point in a build that your skipping around rather than focusing on a task, then moving to the next. I'm waiting for parts to my power steering and a/c system, so I cant put them on yet.

After I finished panel fitment I crawled under the truck and finished detailing the back side of the crossmember. With the lighting under the truck it was impossible to get a good pic so you'll have to imagine a freshly painted satin black crossmember.

[N2TRUX]

I had to run some service calls, so my work was disrupted. I got home in time to put another few hours in. I decided to detail the top of the cowl. It was layered in dust and dirty down in the vent area. I pulled the cowl seal and plastic grate. This allowed access for a thorough cleaning. i cleaned and painted inside the cowl vents, then reinstalled the plastic cover.
The cowl seal was cracking and the plastic clips were stripped. Fortunately I had recently received a box full of goodies from Precision Replacement Parts I had a fresh cowl seal, with shiny new clips. It fit perfectly and added the perfect touch to my detail work.

[N2TRUX]

With the final fitment of the Slosh Panelz completed, I pulled them out one last time. i had planned to do the bulk head install on the firewall panel, but time wont allow it. I made an early morning trip on Sunday to my painters shop. He had the Slosh Tubs painted and buffed for me, so a cross town trip was made for the swap.

Yuma did an amazing turn around job on the Tubz in a short time. Lets hope he can do the same on the filler panels.

[N2TRUX]

We stored the Tubz and set about getting more projects finished. Chris snuck away from his home flooring remodel to spend time on the RideTech RidePro X control box. The control module comes with plenty harness for those that need it. My valves are mounted under the cab, so I have a lot of excess to store.

We decided to create a storage box that fits in the cavity under the middle of the seat. This will give us a tidy way to hide the wires. This came with a few obstacles that we had to be creative with. There are several in line fuses that are part of the protection circuit. If they were stored in the box they would not be serviceable unless you removed the seat. We installed push button circuit breakers in place of the fusses that protrude through the front of the box.

The RidePro X is bluetooth capable and has a separate module for this feature. It has a port that needs access when pairing to a new device. To allow access, Chris cut an opening to expose the front of the module. This prevented us from having to remote mount the module, and eliminate the need for another exposed wire to run.

[N2TRUX]

Chris finished up wiring the box and removed it for final assembly. We discussed options of covering or painting the box, but didnt have a plan just yet.

With the box out of the way, we removed the carpet too. It was time to install the Resto Mod Air Membrane. RestoMod developed a product that combines a layer of thermal protection on top of sound deadner material. They call it Membrane, and test results show it to be extremely effective.

The bottom layer of 2mm butyl is thin for sound damping, but when combined with 3mm of closed cell foam it not only reduces resonance, but provides a layer of thermal protection. The result is a very efficient product that goes beyond what most sound deadner materials are capable of.

[N2TRUX]

Having used various brands of sound deadner in the past I was curious as to how the Membrane install would differ from those. I have used product that came in rolls and 12"x 12" sheats. The Membrane comes in a large 18"x31"sheets. Mine came in basic silver, but they now offer red or black if that matters.

The larger sheets have pros and cons. Its good for covering large areas quickly, but requires more cutting for irregular surfaces. Due to the thickness and density its not as pliable as plain butyl sheets, so there is a bit of a learning curve on how much you can stretch before a cut is necessary.

In summary, I really like the combination of two products in one sheet. Yes, it does take longer to install. I feel it adds an additional 30% labor time on the first use, but I have no doubt that could be reduced as you get a feel for the product.

[funkatation]

Ken did you go up all the way by the firewall? I have this stuff too and look forward to putting it on.

[Dads79GMC]

I'm liking the "Slosh" products. Went to their site the other day! May have to add it to my list of items for my 78. Truck looks great. Mike

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by funkatation

Ken did you go up all the way by the firewall? I have this stuff too and look forward to putting it on.

Yes sir. I started at the back of the cab to have a straight point of reference. I carried it all the way up the firewall and tucked it below the factory insulation. Chris discovered that its better to peel a small area of the paper backing till your sheet is in position. Once its laid down, its not coming back up.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Dads79GMC

I'm liking the "Slosh" products. Went to their site the other day! May have to add it to my list of items for my 78. Truck looks great. Mike

Mike Losh is an avid classic truck enthusiast. It shows in his product. He is constantly working with his customer for feedback and ways to make improvements. I am very pleased with his products and service.

[N2TRUX]

With the Membrane in place, I focused on the bottom side of the Slosh Tubz They come with a very smooth gel coat on top and a slightly rough fiberglass texture on the bottom. Its not necessary to paint them, but I wanted everything to match. My buddy Yuma painted and buffed the top side, now its was my turn to finish out the bottom side.

I like to coat the bottom of the Tubz with a heavy duty rubberized undercoating. I use Medallion brand on all my fender liners. It gives a thick layer of protection from road debris and looks great It also adds some sound dampening as well.

I masked the front side to protect the fresh paint, then sanded the bottom side. I'm not after a smooth surface, just enough to knock the fiberglass nibs down some. Once that process was finished I wiped them down with brake cleaner.

The undercoating requires a Shutz gun to apply, You can get them cheap at Harbor Freight. Be sure to clean it thoroughly when done, or it becomes disposable. Find an area to test your trigger pull and air pressure. I prefer high pressure with a light touch on the trigger to get a large texture pattern.

Apply the product in several coats changing directions to cover the textured surface. Once you have full coverage, I like to add a coarse top coat for appearance purposes. The end result is a surface that can be cleaned easily and looks great.

[gringoloco]

Looks good, thanks for the tip!

How many boxes of membrane did you use?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Looks good, thanks for the tip! How many boxes of membrane did you use?

They sent me two boxes. So far i have used all of one and a bit more from the second box. I have enough to do the back of the cab and under the carpeted kick panels.

[N2TRUX]

Please excuse the lack of organization as of late. Usually I prefer to work on one section at a time till that area is done. Sometimes I pick small unrelated tasks based on the time I have available. Currently we are in thrash mode and knocking out things rather randomly, but there is a method to our madness.

While I was masking and spraying the Slosg Tubz, Chris was masking inside the cab. I discovered a while back that the P/O had glued the headliner material directly to the roof of the cab. I pealed the old liner off and decided the glue needed to come down too. It was a labor intense process, but we stripped the inner roof skin to raw metal. To ensure there were no issues, i treated it with Rust Mort. That as followed by several coats of DP 40 an epoxy sealer. Now I can rest easy that there wont be any rust issues caused by glue eating through the paint.

[aggie91]

Great work as usual. Its amazing what you find done to a truck by previous owners even when the truck was in as great a condition as yours was when you got it. How long have you had this truck? Something like 25 years now? Still remember the first time I saw it and met you in Fredericksburg, TX.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Great work as usual. Its amazing what you find done to a truck by previous owners even when the truck was in as great a condition as yours was when you got it. How long have you had this truck? Something like 25 years now? Still remember the first time I saw it and met you in Fredericksburg, TX.

I bought this truck back in 2003. It made its debut at TX Heatwave that same year. The show you saw it at was the last Mini Nationals that was originally in Waco.

[N2TRUX]

Once the roof was sprayed i went to work on the headliner panel. I bought a replacement panel from Chris Lucas at www.73-87chevytrucks.com He carries a lot of unique 73-87 parts that he designed and are not available anywhere else. He has a molded plastic panel that fits perfectly.

We decided to add a layer of RestoMod Air Membrane for additional sound and thermal insulation. It might have been more effective if I had attached it to the roof. Chris gave me a look like I was insane when I suggested attaching something to the area he just spent a few hours stripping clean. I opted for the removable liner instead.

[N2TRUX]

While I worked on the headliner, Chris was installing the vent windows. I sent them to Precision Replacement Parts last year, and they delivered them at C10s in the park. As always, they came back looking better than new. After attempting to partially rebuild a set myself, there is no doubt that having professionals do it for you is the way to go.

Chris demonstrates the correct way to install the outer seals. Yes, they are supposed to tuck in.

[mcbassin]

Looking great Ken!