67 Camaro Build

[7dee2]

The car is off the blocks and after spending some extra time on the stinger hood it’s ready to be moved back to the other shop. This round of blocking is done!

[Lost in the 60's]

I vote 1970 Corvette Daytona Yellow. There's already too many black and red Camaro's...

[7dee2]

I hadn’t considered yellow but that does bring a couple of 69 Camaro’s to mind. A friend of mine used to own this Daytona Yellow car with a black vinyl top and yellow houndstooth interior, very nice! It’s a big block, 4-speed car that was sporting Keystones and Goodyear Polys. Very Day 2 with slapper bars, 10k Sun tach, SW green line gauges, and a wood wheel.

The second is an internet build that I ran into researching the orange headers. Also, a very cool yella car!

https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=161639



At this point in time I was truly waffling on the color, but in the end ultimately decided our Day 2, Grumpy’s Toy, Motion mash-up car would be Ermine White.

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

I vote for Tahoe Turquiose myself. I love that one year only color on 67s. Plus it works great with a stinger hood and you dont see it very often.


Deepwater Blue or Nantucket blue looked good as well in 67. Tripoli Turquoise in 68 look neat as well.

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

I hadn’t considered yellow but that does bring a couple of 69 Camaro’s to mind. A friend of mine used to own this Daytona Yellow car with a black vinyl top and yellow houndstooth interior, very nice! It’s a big block, 4-speed car that was sporting Keystones and Goodyear Polys. Very Day 2 with slapper bars, 10k Sun tach, SW green line gauges, and a wood wheel.

The second is an internet build that I ran into researching the orange headers. Also, a very cool yella car!

https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=161639



At this point in time I was truly waffling on the color, but in the end ultimately decided our Day 2, Grumpy’s Toy, Motion mash-up car would be Ermine White.

White will look good as well, perfect canvas if you want to do some old school lettering on the car. I love that yellow houndstooth the 69s had. Such a wild interior color that somehow worked.

[Lost in the 60's]

I'm a member on the Yenko website and watched Graeme build the Yellow Z28.
Yep, white is a clean canvas and you can do wrap for temporary lettering too. Have you seen the Rat's Nest thread ? Jim's car is spectacular and the lettering looks like real paint.
This is his COPO that was restored and painted the original LeMans Blue. All the other colors are wrap.

[7dee2]

So many great colors, I must admit it’s been hard to stick to the original vision for the car. It might’ve made it easier if almost all our daily drivers weren’t also white. I agree that it's an excellent canvas for lettering or a wrap, that's a very cool idea. You know if I do that though Chris might just track me down and give me a swift kick to the ol’ bean bag!

Thank you, I found the Rat’s Nest thread and am looking forward to reading it.




After removing the old upholstery earlier and fitting these rear armrests to the mini tubs. It’s go time to remove as much cotton, glue, and surface rust as possible. Ha, it certainly did make a mess, cotton crap went everywhere with the help of my little disc sander. I’ve got some new covers ready to go but no foam yet.

[7dee2]

With an SS big block template kit and the actual emblems, Chris started drilling the holes for our Camaro badging. I imagine this was tough after all the work done to turn around and then drill holes. Day 2 cars would have all the badging so that’s what is happening.

[7dee2]

Using a stencil kit the Bumble Bee nose stripe is being laid out in conjunction with the SS emblems. Thanks to Chris for taking these pics for us.

[7dee2]

A few days before these pics, the car underwent a POR-15 treatment for the main and trunk floor. Plenty of seam sealer was applied afterward. Hot dang, we are now entering the final coatings phase.

[7dee2]

Scuffing the trunk area for its final top coat, also noticed some exterior sealer for the deck filler panel went on as well.

[KevinK7]

Looking good, still following along, eagerly awaiting to see paint on this thing

[joesscamaro]

Same here...looking for the paint update!

[Lost in the 60's]

Wondering why is he laying out the stripe on the primer ??? Shouldn't that be after final color application and under the clear ? Making a lot of work for himself to mask that off for color.

[KevinK7]

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

Wondering why is he laying out the stripe on the primer ??? Shouldn't that be after final color application and under the clear ? Making a lot of work for himself to mask that off for color.

...just a guess, but I suspect to know where to drill for the (SS) emblems.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by KevinK7

Looking good, still following along, eagerly awaiting to see paint on this thing

Originally Posted by joesscamaro

Same here...looking for the paint update!

Yep, the wait was just killing me too! You know, just a little over a month ago I posted on my old K30 Build thread some recent pics trailering the painted Camaro. Different topic over there but it’s a sneak peak of it going somewhere for something, more to come on that later. The build thread is still running roughly 8 months behind the actual build.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...postcount=1218

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

Wondering why is he laying out the stripe on the primer ??? Shouldn't that be after final color application and under the clear ? Making a lot of work for himself to mask that off for color.

Originally Posted by KevinK7

...just a guess, but I suspect to know where to drill for the (SS) emblems.

Great question, the stripe was added after color and buried in clear. Kevin is also correct, Chris marked everything including the SS emblem locations (dimpled) to be drilled later. I do recall that he also wanted a reference of where the stripe went from panel to panel (for some precise measurements?). I believe this was the last time the front end was bolted together before paint.




Thanks for following along you guys it’s a good time documenting the car coming together. This is a little story I'm calling "My original plan was." I intended to bring the car home, install the rollbar, drill the emblem holes, weld the firewall and seat pans, and place the shell back on the rotisserie. Excellent plan, wasn't it? Only issue: Chris and Kelly weren't too fond of my one-person, four-post lift method that involved grabbing the roof and quarters with ratchet straps to attach it to the rotisserie.

Also, as previously posted, Chris wanted another round of blocking with the car altogether. Once this was done it was a good time to lay out the bumblebee stripe with the SS fender emblems simultaneously. Not to mention (but I will), because I'm slow and the body shop is very busy it did take slightly over six months to get the car back into process the last time, I brought it home.

So, to save time and possibly hours of body rework it was agreed earlier that the car would stay. I’d come in and assist in placing the shell back on my rotisserie when the time came, using their 2-post lift. That is exactly what happened next, the front clip was removed and the body shell went back onto the rotisserie. Went fairly smoothly in my opinion, just a few hours one morning.

The good news is that the car is another step closer to paint. In hindsight doing it this way probably cost a little more but, with the time savings (?) and Chris and Kelly’s skills I’ve got no complaints!

The End.

A few days later I stopped back by and found they’d repaired the trunk floor (hanger holes created by the exhaust shop earlier, see link). I’m fairly sure Chris will take advantage of the rotisserie angles to block some more on the roof as well.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=288

[7dee2]

I’ve been waiting for this! With the body on the rotisserie, it’s time to rebuild the worn-out front steering/suspension, finish some other subframe repairs, add a fast steering and disc brake upgrade, as well as prep and paint the diff. Just in time, I was starting to run out of Camaro stuff to mess with.

[Lost in the 60's]

When you remove the control arms, just sell the uppers and the entire brake system and buy Global West tubular upper control arms and their disc brake set up as a package. The original lowers are fine, but when replacing the rubber bushings, install their bushings in that too. Better handling geometry built into the tubular arms.
The rear axle has been highly modified from original too. It appears the frame rails have been modified for the 4 link, coil over modification, but if the channels with all the holes on the frame are for the shocks to mount to, I hope there is another bar connecting them together and mounting to the floor pan for strength.

Mine with the GW uppers and disc conversion. Sorry about the huge pic, don't know how to downsize that.

[Lost in the 60's]

1 other item, I hope you are eliminating the throttle rod to the carb and going to a cable. I have a Lokar pedal in black to match the other pedals without the bling looking out of place. It is the Midnight series.
But what I found when I added this same pedal to my Chevelle is, the added stress of that set up cracked the firewall where it mounts and the Camaro was already cracked there. I made a reinforcement plate from 1/8" steel for the Camaro and welded it on.

[CG]

Found another Grumpy pic. Looks like they are running four abreast!

I haven't kept up much on the board lately ... I hope you're going with white. Maybe its already been decided?

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

When you remove the control arms, just sell the uppers and the entire brake system and buy Global West tubular upper control arms and their disc brake set up as a package. The original lowers are fine, but when replacing the rubber bushings, install their bushings in that too. Better handling geometry built into the tubular arms.
The rear axle has been highly modified from original too. It appears the frame rails have been modified for the 4 link, coil over modification, but if the channels with all the holes on the frame are for the shocks to mount to, I hope there is another bar connecting them together and mounting to the floor pan for strength.

Mine with the GW uppers and disc conversion. Sorry about the huge pic, don't know how to downsize that.

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

1 other item, I hope you are eliminating the throttle rod to the carb and going to a cable. I have a Lokar pedal in black to match the other pedals without the bling looking out of place. It is the Midnight series.
But what I found when I added this same pedal to my Chevelle is, the added stress of that set up cracked the firewall where it mounts and the Camaro was already cracked there. I made a reinforcement plate from 1/8" steel for the Camaro and welded it on.

Nice upgrades and build btw, I am aware of the poor steering geometry and considered updated control arms or perhaps the Dick Guldstrand modifications. Here’s an interesting read. https://pozziracing.com/first_gen_suspension_geome.htm

All of the used takeoff parts were part of the deal with Kelly (Perks shop manager) when he purchased our original body. If I don’t use it, it goes to him to use or dispose of.

You’re correct on the rear suspension, that was a tough decision for me one thing led to another (link). https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=136
And yes, the lateral bar is removable and out for floor access at this point. I’m focused on trying to hide the newer technology that’s finding its way into our car. It's more of a D2Restomod, heavy on the D2Resto part.

Besides, I’m running skinnies up front.

Originally Posted by CG

Found another Grumpy pic. Looks like they are running four abreast!

I haven't kept up much on the board lately ... I hope you're going with white. Maybe its already been decided?

That’s a cool picture, just love Grumpy’s Toys! Yep, Ermine White it is, I’m sticking to the original vision for the car.




My workbench has been an absolute drop zone lately, or is that all the time? First up, start pulling cotter pins and giving all the fasteners a good shot of WD40.

[Lost in the 60's]

Once aftermarket control arms came around with the Guldstrand mod built in, that modification faded away quickly. I'm surprised you came up with the Pozzi article, I haven't seen that come up in a search in many years, nice digging...
Just do the tubulars, much easier than cutting and welding on the sub frame. With the rear already heavily modified, matching that on the front will be expected. My resto-mod has turned more that way too, as time passes, but hey, you'll have a better car as a result.
If you're set on cutting, consider getting a different frame. Yours is a very early one and would bring a nice income from a 100% original restorer looking for it, just don't tell Kelly about the swap...

[Lost in the 60's]

Just dawned on me, are you familiar with the threaded rod compression for disassembling that suspension without it turning into a bomb ? Yes, people use the finger style compressors, but they aren't as safe, or easy to use.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

Once aftermarket control arms came around with the Guldstrand mod built in, that modification faded away quickly. I'm surprised you came up with the Pozzi article, I haven't seen that come up in a search in many years, nice digging...
Just do the tubulars, much easier than cutting and welding on the sub frame. With the rear already heavily modified, matching that on the front will be expected. My resto-mod has turned more that way too, as time passes, but hey, you'll have a better car as a result.
If you're set on cutting, consider getting a different frame. Yours is a very early one and would bring a nice income from a 100% original restorer looking for it, just don't tell Kelly about the swap...

Thanks, I am just that old! Dick Guldstrand aka “Mr. Corvette” is a big deal in early Corvette history. I first became aware of him in the mid to late 80’s and again while enjoying the NCRS community.

https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/d...way-at-age-87/

No worries, already put some work into this subframe repairing a rotten body mount (additional links below), and I think that its early LOS uniqueness is cool. It’s in great shape and I’m only restoring/repairing and keeping modifications to a minimum.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...0&postcount=31
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...9&postcount=32
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...0&postcount=33

The next guy to own this car after me has the option to do just that. They could add additional handling components to complement the rear 4-link in that way or go further and swap out the subframe. This car has the potential to go in a lot of different future directions if so desired, lowered ride height, autocross, fuel injection, etc. For my purposes, good old straight line, carbureted goodness is the plan.

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

Just dawned on me, are you familiar with the threaded rod compression for disassembling that suspension without it turning into a bomb ? Yes, people use the finger style compressors, but they aren't as safe, or easy to use.

Remember I’m reporting on the past, the subframe is all done about 8 months ago. I’m betting you’ll get a kick out of how I removed the coils which is coming up.



Decided to take a lot of reference pics (surprise, surprise ), brake line routing, steering, etc. Thinking I might just want to reference them later which I did a couple of times when it was going back together. Dropped the shocks and continued pulling all the cotter pins as well as another round of penetrant.

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

Ah the Guldstrand mod, about the best thing you can do if you dont want the look of the tubular a arms and gonna have some corner fun. I thought about it on my 68, but the car is too original, low mileage to really mess with outside of just replacing bushings. Which is something I need to do at some point as the entire car still has all of it original ball joints and bushings. So Ill be following along with the subframe tear down to take notes, lol.