ClusterTruck; because that’s what it is

[clay68c10]

I needed to mount my LS fuse box, and wanted it to look factory-ish. I thought about closing in the bottom fully, but decided keeping it open fit the vibe better and gives some access.

[clay68c10]

Now for some AC parts. My harness came from the deliverance dude and looked pretty decent. Seems it had spent some time outside tho. The relay had no continuity when I tested it.
Time for a relay upgrade since these just work and I have lots of them.

[clay68c10]

I wanted to add a heater core shut off valve but wanted to maintain the LS bypass. Some research led me to this setup. It fits well and should work.
The hard line and some T’s are from the 4wd actuator circuit off a 2013ish 5.4 Expedition. Plenty of those in the junkyard.
I used a little heat from a lighter to get the bends in the vacuum line. It’s teed into the same circuit that actuates the cowl flaps for recirc.

[clay68c10]

Since I’m using an 04 DBW PCM I had to do some work to get the computer to run the AC compressor.
My original PCM part number is set up to take in a CAN data signal from the HVAC module for the compressor on command. Most blue/green PCMs are this way, but there are a couple other part number blue/greens that can accept a 12v signal. The LT1swap site gives you this info.
I found one of the compatible ones on the Bay and will use it instead of my original. It was $30.
To make this work electrically, you need to move the AC input wire on the PCM from C1 #59 to C2 #17.
Then I needed a 12v trigger input.
The C10 system just used the flap box switch to energize the compressor clutch continuously. The 12v source there is the yellow wire and the output is green.
The LS side of things uses the low pressure switch on the accumulator to signal the HVAC module to cycle the clutch.
To incorporate both, I wired the low pressure switch on the accumulator in series with the flap box switch and sent this to the PCM to tell it to cycle the compressor.

[clay68c10]

So, one might ask what’s the benefit of having the PCM run the compressor?

Rapid idle speed control adjustment when the clutch cycles
Fan control to keep the hi side pressure down
WOT compressor cut off
Clutch disengagement when starting


I re-routed the pressure switch wiring from the back of the engine to the front by the MAF. It seems more tidy to me.

[loudchevy]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

So, one might ask what’s the benefit of having the PCM run the compressor?

Rapid idle speed control adjustment when the clutch cycles
Fan control to keep the hi side pressure down
WOT compressor cut off
Clutch disengagement when starting

These seem like good reasons to me!

[clay68c10]

Originally Posted by loudchevy

These seem like good reasons to me!

Yeah, hopefully it all works. Since they're factory functions it should.

[raggedjim]

Nice work Clay. I have a 5.3 LS in the storage part of my shop waiting for a place to go...

[clay68c10]

Overdue for some updates.
Here’s a look at some metal work. This was an area that a lot of these trucks have damage. The lower bed side gets some abuse and this one had been put thru the wringer.
I like to lay a straight edge on these so I can see the progress, good or bad, and adjust accordingly.

[clay68c10]

I’ve watched some videos and asked questions, so now it was time to just get after it. Hammer on dolly, near dolly, close to dolly, away from dolly, you name it. Including finger smashes.
But it does work. And it got straighter, by a lot.

[clay68c10]

More hammering and it was closer. I brought my daughter out to show her the answer to her questions about what I was doing and had her do some quick blocking to get a look at it. She worked on some of the small high spots, but…
Basically there was a big swell that I couldn’t get rid of, and the bottom flange of the panel was all wavy.
This may be the other side vs the earlier pics, but the damage was similar.

[clay68c10]

I asked the expert, and he said it was the wavy panel flange that told the story. It was stretched from the original damage and was loading the rest of the panel, causing the big swell.
So I borrowed the life saver tool.
The shrinker/stretcher.
It took a while, but as I shrunk that flange the panel relaxed and the swell pretty much went away.
I was solo that time, so I had to get creative with holding the bed side up.

[clay68c10]

Another area these beds get beat is behind the bumper. This is an easy spot to repair tho, it’s pretty flexible.
I’m an amateur, and looking at the time stamps of these pics it didn’t take very long to fix.
I started at 5:14 and finished at 5:54.
Just saying, you can do this with a set of HF hammers. Don’t be scared to try, especially down low where the eye doesn’t catch imperfections as well.

[clay68c10]

After more hammering, blood, sweat and tears, it was time to strip the bed pieces. Not even a question, it’s going to the blaster.

[loudchevy]

Nice progress on the bed! The shrinker on the edge is a great tip, it makes sense after you explained it. Freshly blasted metal parts FTW

[raggedjim]

At least your daughter is curious about your truck, my son avoids mine like the plague!

[clay68c10]

Originally Posted by loudchevy

Nice progress on the bed! The shrinker on the edge is a great tip, it makes sense after you explained it. Freshly blasted metal parts FTW

That tool is a cool one. If it wasn't available to borrow, I'd have been tempted to buy one since they can do so many other things.

Originally Posted by raggedjim

At least your daughter is curious about your truck, my son avoids mine like the plague!

She's into it sometimes, mainly when it seems like there's something to learn that interests her.

[clay68c10]

Now that I have clean metal, it was time for epoxy and then assembly.
It's starting to look like something finally.

And yes I should have just had the tailgate blasted with everything else. Kind of an oversight on my part.

[clay68c10]

I had noticed a few months ago that the tailgate didn't sit quite right in the opening. When it had been zinged on the bottom it must have put a twist into it as seen here.

[clay68c10]

I could lay the gate on a flat floor and detect the warp. I figured I'd support the opposite (low) corners and maybe just a couple people could stand on the high corners.
Nope, it didn't move. So then I put one high corner under a tire of a car on a lift and stood on that opposite corner. Again, nope. It just felt a little springy.
Well, that forklift carriage is pretty damn heavy so why not try that with a board under the fork to spare the metal work.
It worked after going in increments about 4 times. As I had pressure on it I hammered the bottom pinch weld to relax the dent a bit and that helped. It sure did pop a few times as the metal loosened up.
I was amazed at the rigidity. It would flex 3-4 inches before any permanent movement would stick.
But, in the end it worked. In lieu of a forklift I would use a second vehicle.

[clay68c10]

Next up is the cover for the fuel filler. I wanted it to be plain and just blend in like something factory, similar to what the Blazers had.
Time for some hi-tech CAD, and then on to some 18ga.
Amazingly, it turned out great on the first go-round. It did require some creative bending because of the shape and the flanges. Between the brake and a vise and hammer I'm happy with it.

[clay68c10]

Now off to Dave's for lots of sanding.

I made some bolt on uprights for my cab dolly to convert into a bed dolly. It works well, definitely helps moving the bed around.

[loudchevy]

Nice job on the fuel filler cover!
I did the same thing with my cab dolly and converted it into a bed dolly as well. It was so nice to be able to move the bed around.

[SCOTI]

Gotta love 'multi-use' tools!

[clay68c10]

Sanding forever, and then some guide coat powder, and more sanding