"Midnight Rider" 1970 C10 SWB Fleetside

[omodified]

I want to get started on adding more Dynamat to the interior of the cab. Before I can do that, I need to added filler pan head screws to the unused bench seat mounting holes. These stainless screws were included with the bucket seat installation kit that we installed way back on post 329 and somehow I didn't lose them. Before I installed the screws, I chased all the threads in the floor to clean out all the paint. Then, I used red Loctite and tightened the screws in place.









The last thing needing to be done before I can add more sound deadening was installing the high hump cover. For this I used 3M strip caulk as my sealer. This stuff is nice because it is waterproof and will remain soft. This will be important in case I ever have to remove it in the future. I nickel plated the original bolts a while back. So, I used these to tighten things down.

[omodified]

Got the steering box back from paint, a second time. Considering all of the grinding that needed done, this turned out really nice. You can see in the pic just how much grinding was needed.







I had to touch up a few places up where the grinder got into the top cap and the bolts that hold it down. This VHT cast aluminum was a perfect match for the cap. I sprayed it in a cup and used a small piece of foam to apply it. For the bolts, I used this touch up pen from Birchwood Casey. The flat black finish is also a perfect match to the black oxide finish of the bolts.











Using nickel plated hardware and nickel anti-seize, I mounted the box to the frame using 70lb ft of torque. You can't see any of the grinding marks or the touch-ups and it's mounted totally flush.

[omodified]

Time to consolidate some small parts by making the power steering lines and sealing off the system. Started with installing the AN fittings into the steering box. This steering box takes o-ring fittings so, just install and tighten down.







Next up was making the lines. I studied lots a pics to understand how I need to route the lines so it all clears the inner fenders once those are installed. These AN fittings are nice because they swivel. This will buy me some extra adjustment later, if I need it.

[omodified]

Well, it took about a week of piddling but I finished the sound deadening in the interior. I didn't buy enough foil tape for the edges, so i had to buy more. It ended up being mismatched, but it's all going to get covered anyways so no big deal. It's almost a shame to have to cover up all this work.

[hewittca]

That's some super nice work on the cab!

[omodified]

Had some free minutes to poke around on the truck. I've been dealing with an issue on these tires since I bought them. No matter how much I cleaned, scrubbed, used tired shine, this white film kept coming back. I also noticed that as time has past sitting in the garage, this issue has gotten worse. Like some of the NOS rubber pieces that I've used so far, I assume the issue that I'm seeing is from mold release agent. Since it worked so well for me before, I used paint and grease remover and scrubbed the front and back sidewalls. Looks so much better now. I would've put some tire protectant on afterwards, but it will just collect dust. Soon enough....

[omodified]

Installed a few grommets onto the firewall. I could not find originals for these but at least they are reproduced.

OER 152858
LMC 13-302

[omodified]

Always trying to free up space by installing small parts. Looking through some boxes, I found another part for the AC system. This piece was included in the Holley front accessory mount kit. When I first tried to install it, it didn't quite fit. It seemed the port spacing was machined incorrectly. I attempted to file some material down and I did get it to fit finally. In the end, I ordered a new part from Holley, hoping it actually fit out of the box. The fit was indeed way better, so I went with the second one. Holley recommended 18ft/lb when installing.

[omodified]

The bed is really close to being painted. To keep with the factory theme, the front panel mounting hardware will need to be painted with the bed. This means the entire bed will need to be painted while assembled. So, I felt it was important to get some paint sprayed onto the mating surfaces of the front panel and the bed sides. So, the front panel was removed and base/clear was sprayed onto the mating surfaces. Will reassemble in a few days.

[omodified]

Installing more small parts to make space. This Holley water pump I'm using came with two sets of heater passages. This allows for hose routing options. Since I will be using the side ports for routing, it is time to plug the bottom ports. I nickel plated these 3/4 NPT plugs a while back and they've just been sitting here. I used 567 pipe thread sealant and tightened finger tight plus three rounds.

[omodified]

Back on post 182, I showed where we were designing all new steering components, including an updated idler arm mount. The design and manufacturing has been progressing, but I have been sitting on the new idler arm mount. It's painted to match the frame. Tonight, I installed it using nickel plated grade 8 hardware. Torqued the bolts to 30lb/ft with nickel anti-seize.

[omodified]

From what I was told, the dash pad is very hard to install once you have wiring and other things in the way. It was recommended to install this now, while I have the space. I bought this awesome NOS dash pad 3968205 from board member RogerKoop back to 2020. It's been resting comfortably in my closet ever since then. It's time to get it out and let it breathe.






Thankfully, Roger had this piece wrapped nicely in foam. That definitely helped preserve it.




The dash pad did not come with installation nuts, so I opted for these. I nickel plated them a while back, so they were ready to go.




It took two people to get the studs started into the holes of the dash, being careful not to scratch the paint. We had to rock it a bit and then it dropped right in. I carefully tightened each nut a little at a time so I could evenly distribute the load. I have seen people overtighten these and it warps them pretty bad. I think this turned out great!

[omodified]

Working with the Vintage Air system a little more. I needed to install the AC drain line. I wanted the line to be hidden as much as possible. In order to achieve this, I had to buy extra drain line because the kit didn't come with enough of it. I used a rubber grommet at the firewall. Used zip ties on each connection to keep it from coming loose. Finally, a hole was drilled through the bottom of the inner fender mounting flange on the cab. Once the inner fender is mounted, I don't think you will see much of the drain line at all. The nice part is that it will drain straight to the ground, just in front of the front cab mount. Had to touch up the paint in one spot from drilling.

[omodified]

The bed panel and bedsides have had enough time to sit, after painting what won't be seen. It's time to reassemble the bed. A while back, I bought a complete bolt kit from AMK Products. Supposedly, they are the go to for new original hardware for restorations. Well, most of the kits appears to meet that expectation. However, there are quite a few things that are close, but not exact, like the bumper bolt nuts. You can add front bed panel hardware to that list as well. After using this kit, you can see the bolt length is not long enough to match the original look. The head of the bolt is correct, just not long enough even without using the provided lock washer. Time to find a different solution...

[omodified]

Well, it didn't take long to find the exact bolts I needed. Apparently the bolts are also for use on a Chevelle/Camaro. Heartbeat City Camaro had them in stock with the correct length and head marking. Bed is assembled and ready for some more color!

[omodified]

The bed cross sills I bought from Mar-K are stainless. I'm not sure exactly why I bought stainless, other than I knew they wouldn't rust. When we mocked everything up, I decided polished stainless was going to be too much bling for my taste. So, they are getting painted. First, they had to be sanded down really good so paint will actually stick to them. For now, they will just get some black epoxy.

[omodified]

Getting more bed parts ready for some color.

[omodified]

Cross sills are painted. Bedliner should make them super durable.

[omodified]

At last!!! The bed is painted. Need to let it harden for some days, then give it the old sand and buff.

[omodified]

More paint! This laid down really nicely.

[omodified]

More bed action pics, after sitting outside a few days in the sun.

[omodified]

Starting to wet sand. Buffing coming soon!!!

[mr.mud1]

very nice work,looking good.i love it when the correct fasteners are used.it's all in the details.she's going to be a knockout.

[Speedracer39]

Great build can’t wait to see what you do on the bed floor

[omodified]

Originally Posted by Speedracer39

Great build can’t wait to see what you do on the bed floor

Thanks for dropping by Speedracer. Before I can add in the bed floor, the bed needs more wet sanding. Sanding will be done in four phases, 800, 1200, 2000, and 3000 grit. 800 and 1200 is finished. For 2000 grit, it gets really hard to see what is going on. Guide coat helps with that.