What did you do to your truck today.The 3rd chapter

[novaX522]

Got the rear brake line built and connected for both sides. Need to bleed all the brakes still. But, I had to put the wheels on and put the truck back on the ground and see how it looks with the new front and rear springs.

[dmack91]

Cleaned the shop out enough to get the 70 inside for the first time. Swapped beds to one in somewhat better shape.

[BRL]

Gutted a cheap $20 Amazon tachometer and stuck it in the gauge cluster.

Heck I don't even care if it's going to work, I have a 3:08 rear, automatic transmission, and I drive like a little old lady.

But it's blue and it matches my stereo face so I'm being stylish these days.

...come on you guys, where are the complements?
This forum needs a like button.

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by BRL

Gutted a cheap $20 Amazon tachometer and stuck it in the gauge cluster.

Heck I don't even care if it's going to work, I have a 3:08 rear, automatic transmission, and I drive like a little old lady.

But it's blue and it matches my stereo face so I'm being stylish these days.

...come on you guys, where are the complements?
This forum needs a like button.

This is the closest thing to a like button "" . Looks good to me.

[BRL]

Why thank you for the complement 3757chevy, I appreciate that.
I have blue LED dash lights coming today and I'll see if I'm going to like those.
Putting those in before I reinstall the cluster because I've realized I don't like a brake pedal sticking in my neck.

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by Casper42

finally found a great 1157 LED bulb that is bright, fits and performs...and reasonably inexpensive. Amazon has them in stock at their fulfillment centers so shipping is fast.

My comparison pic doesn't represent the performance perfectly, as photographing a bright light source is very challenging and it blows out the image.

Backstory: I didn't want to swap out the OE lens with one of those printed circuit board type lenses to get some brightness to the back. So over the past year, I have gone thru and tested numerous 1157 LEDs with little success. Many bulbs will not even mount in the socket as they bottom out before you can twist it to get it secured. Others were nearly hyperbright and had not brightness differentiation when you hit the brake pedal. The last ones I had, where the Sylvania 1157s that anyone can purcahse at any autopart store. These worked, but were dim in the standard "on" position, in fact dimmer than incandescent.

In short, if you want to be seen from behind when you hit that brake pedal, and still have better than OEM brightness when just cruising, these are the ones! We'll see how long they last!

Thanks for the info. I ordered in a set and got them for 10.99, I put them in my '68 Burb but have no pictures.

[novaX522]

Tonight I went out and got several cans of self etching primer and several cans of dupli color silver wheel paint. Got the truck back on jack stands, and the wheels off and loaded. I’m gonna get them dismounted tomorrow.
We’re supposed to get another round of winter storms in Iowa starting tonight. Hoping I can get to Goodyear and get them dismounted so I have something to work on for a few days.
The wheels are a little ratty. Im gonna glass bead the wheels, then primer and paint them. Throw some 3” trim rings on and should look way better.

[dmack91]

I went with a little darker metallic Grey on my ralleys. Nothing like paying $12 for a can of spray paint. Bidenomics

[novaX522]

Originally Posted by dmack91

I went with a little darker metallic Grey on my ralleys. Nothing like paying $12 for a can of spray paint. Bidenomics

No kidding on the paint! I got several cans of self etching primer, a can of clear, and a couple cans of dupli color silver. It was $75, yikes. It will all get used eventually, but that’s ridiculous. Hell, I remember when it was 99 cents a can.

Got the tires dismounted and started bead blasting a wheel. It’s coming out great, but gonna take a while. I’m bringing my ear buds tomorrow so I can listen to some podcasts to kill the time.

[BRL]

Those wheels should look pretty good when you're finished.
One time I painted some Nova ralleys with some of that chrome paint and they looked really nice...for about 2 months before they dulled down.
I guess maybe I should have put a clear coat on them.

When I bought my truck almost 29 years ago, the seller said it was originally an OD green Bell Telephone work truck before he had it painted blue.
I believe him now.

ETA: I couldn't find any touch-up paint that matched this particular color blue on the internet so I had a custom rattle can made up, it was close to $50 as I recall.
You can bet I'll use that stuff sparingly!

[67 twins]

A little paint for my cylinder head after getting it back from the machine shop. Had larger valves installed & a little port work done.

[novaX522]

Originally Posted by BRL

Those wheels should look pretty good when you're finished.
One time I painted some Nova ralleys with some of that chrome paint and they looked really nice...for about 2 months before they dulled down.
I guess maybe I should have put a clear coat on them.

When I bought my truck almost 29 years ago, the seller said it was originally an OD green Bell Telephone work truck before he had it painted blue.
I believe him now.

ETA: I couldn't find any touch-up paint that matched this particular color blue on the internet so I had a custom rattle can made up, it was close to $50 as I recall.
You can bet I'll use that stuff sparingly!

That looks kinda like Bahama blue they used on VWs

[novaX522]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

A little paint for my cylinder head after getting it back from the machine shop. Had larger valves installed & a little port work done.

I’ve never really looked at an inline 6 head before. The intake port divider wall is recessed a ways.
I see the head bolt comes down that spot as well.

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by novaX522

I’ve never really looked at an inline 6 head before. The intake port divider wall is recessed a ways.
I see the head bolt comes down that spot as well.

It's not really a divider. It's just a bolt boss that runs through the middle of the port. The area behind it is open.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by novaX522

That looks kinda like Bahama blue they used on VWs

I wouldn't mind finding something a little cheaper that matches, it's 2188 medium blue and I couldn't locate anything on the net but I suck with computers anyway so maybe I just didn't know where to look.

[novaX522]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

It's not really a divider. It's just a bolt boss that runs through the middle of the port. The area behind it is open.

Cool, so each intake port is shared by 2 cylinders? I’ll have to check out an inline 6 head next time I see one. Interesting!

[novaX522]

Got the glass beading done today. It took quite a while, but I’m happy with how clean they came out.
I painted the backside of the wheels black. I’ll let that dry tonight, then tomorrow I will spray the front with self etching primer and Dulpli color silver wheel paint.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

A little paint for my cylinder head after getting it back from the machine shop. Had larger valves installed & a little port work done.

That's an L6 Head. What size valves did you get?
Not going the full monty Lump Port route, I see. I'm on the fence about trying it on the next build.
[Thinking about '63 MY 292. The cranks of that year are highly featherable.]

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by novaX522

Cool, so each intake port is shared by 2 cylinders? I’ll have to check out an inline 6 head next time I see one. Interesting!

Ain't nothing better than a 292. Get yourself one. You'll fall in love.

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

That's an L6 Head. What size valves did you get?
Not going the full monty Lump Port route, I see. I'm on the fence about trying it on the next build.
[Thinking about '63 MY 292. The cranks of that year are highly featherable.]

I went with 1.84 and 1.6 valves. After reading Leo Santucci's book(2nd edition) quite a bit I came to the conclusion that for a street driven truck this is going to be the best solution. Just a couple quotes from the book. Pg 107 "the head-bolt boss in the middle of the intake ports should be shaped like a wing, but left in place." And Pg 117 "for pure street use and mileage, a 1.80 diameter intake valve is best. The exhaust is 1.60 diameter in either case."
I think you already have the book. If not buy it, read it several times over the next year, then make your decisions. Lol

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

I went with 1.84 and 1.6 valves. After reading Leo Santucci's book(2nd edition) quite a bit I came to the conclusion that for a street driven truck this is going to be the best solution. Just a couple quotes from the book. Pg 107 "the head-bolt boss in the middle of the intake ports should be shaped like a wing, but left in place." And Pg 117 "for pure street use and mileage, a 1.80 diameter intake valve is best. The exhaust is 1.60 diameter in either case."
I think you already have the book. If not buy it, read it several times over the next year, then make your decisions. Lol

Sweet. That's what I did on my 2005 292 build. I rebuilt the original L25 that came in the '68 Fremont Stepside when I bought it in 1973.
In 1977 I rebuilt a MY '67 block to .030-over,but all stock, or GM parts HD, if available. That engine fran 250,000 miles in 25 years.
OBTW, 1.84'' valves are stock for the SBC 307 iirc.

That's an interesting quote from Leo. I only have the first edition.
Lump Ports were the snazzy dog trick of the period.
About 20-something years ago, I was in Daytona talking with Twisted 6, who was promoting Lump Ports. But I must admit taking away those support columns, replacing them with countersunk flush bolts, epoxying airflow Lumps down, and getting machined set screws to fit the holes left on the top of the head, is a machinist's pipe dream [and your high bill.]

I will have to get the Second Edition.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by novaX522

Cool, so each intake port is shared by 2 cylinders? I’ll have to check out an inline 6 head next time I see one. Interesting!

But only one at a time. 1 - 2/ 3 - 4/ 5 - 6.
Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Sweet. That's what I did on my 2005 292 build. I rebuilt the original L25 that came in the '68 Fremont Stepside when I bought it in 1973.
In 1977 I rebuilt a MY '67 block to .030-over,but all stock, or GM parts HD, if available. That engine fran 250,000 miles in 25 years.
OBTW, 1.84'' valves are stock for the SBC 307 iirc.

That's an interesting quote from Leo. I only have the first edition.
Lump Ports were the snazzy dog trick of the period.
About 20-something years ago, I was in Daytona talking with Twisted 6, who was promoting Lump Ports. But I must admit taking away those support columns, replacing them with countersunk flush bolts, epoxying airflow Lumps down, and getting machined set screws to fit the holes left on the top of the head, is a machinist's pipe dream [and your high bill.]

I will have to get the Second Edition.

Both of those quotes are in regards to a street driven truck. For street/strip or racing the lump ports are still the way to go. Unless of course you can afford to cut & weld two SBC heads together. But that takes deep pockets because everything has to change.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

Both of those quotes are in regards to a street driven truck. For street/strip or racing the lump ports are still the way to go. Unless of course you can afford to cut & weld two SBC heads together. But that takes deep pockets because everything has to change.

Larry Page, [Twisted 6] is a racer. So is Leo Santucci. Page said the Lump Ports improve performance thru all speed regimes. [Including cruise, I guess.] But the reliability and the complicated machining procedures make it a gamble for me.
I'm not a racer.
Glad to know of the new Airfoil/Column trick.

[novaX522]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

But only one at a time. 1 - 2/ 3 - 4/ 5 - 6.
Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.

Yeah, I didn’t think they would have the cylinders fighting each other for air. It seems like an effective way to utilize the space available.