What did you do to your truck today.The 3rd chapter

[novaX522]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

Both of those quotes are in regards to a street driven truck. For street/strip or racing the lump ports are still the way to go. Unless of course you can afford to cut & weld two SBC heads together. But that takes deep pockets because everything has to change.

These guys are racing with inline 6s? How fast are they?

[novaX522]

Originally Posted by novaX522

No kidding on the paint! I got several cans of self etching primer, a can of clear, and a couple cans of dupli color silver. It was $75, yikes. It will all get used eventually, but that’s ridiculous. Hell, I remember when it was 99 cents a can.

Got the tires dismounted and started bead blasting a wheel. It’s coming out great, but gonna take a while. I’m bringing my ear buds tomorrow so I can listen to some podcasts to kill the time.

Got the wheels primered and painted. They came out really nice. Now I have to clean the lug nuts and center caps.

[novaX522]

Before and after

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

But only one at a time. 1 - 2/ 3 - 4/ 5 - 6.
Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.

Except the pairing is 1&2-3&4-5&6

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

Except the pairing is 1&2-3&4-5&6

Well yeah. I used spaced dashes to indicate pairings, and / slashes to indicate seperation.

[novaX522]

I had painted the back of the wheels black, I was being cheap with the paint. I kept seeing dark shadows on the front side. May not be visible when on the truck, but I didn’t take chances. I sprayed the backside silver.

[novaX522]

Photos

[Extended Power]

New Ringbrothers glove box lid picked up, and installed today.

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Well yeah. I used spaced dashes to indicate pairings, and / slashes to indicate seperation.

Oh OK

[hdrolling]

Put it on some rollers and pushed baby in the corner, too cold to drive without heat so I needed to make room so the kids don't drag their school bags across it while walking by. The HF wheel dollies work great for something like this.

[novaX522]

Tonight I measured and got my new hitch placed and marked where I want it. Started drilling the holes in the frame and found the final drill bit I needed was tweaked. So, I will get some new bits tomorrow and finish mounting the hitch.

[Extended Power]

Replaced the 60lb oil pressure gauge with an Autometer 0 to 100 electric.
Had yo modify the back of the instrument panel, but I think it turned out as good as it could trying to still look stock.

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by Extended Power

Replaced the 60lb oil pressure gauge with an Autometer 0 to 100 electric.
Had yo modify the back of the instrument panel, but I think it turned out as good as it could trying to still look stock.

Nice . What did you have to modify , any pictures?

[Extended Power]

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

Nice . What did you have to modify , any pictures?

I used a 2" holesaw to cut the hole, after careful measuring, as the Autometer is in fact only a 2" gauge.
Taking the back cover off the vacuum and oil pressure gauge, I removed the oil pressure gauge by just removing the nut on the back of the sender oil line.
The gauge I removed was brand new, and the oil pressure of the new engine destroyed it. (Yhe bourdon tube tried to straighten out with the pressure...the result is in the first picture...shows almost 40 psi with no pressure applied.
Anyways....
Once the hole was drilled, I filed it just enough to allow the gauge to be tight all the way around, so I didn't need anything to hold it in place.
The gauge sits right up against the instrument panel lens...no other modifications needed.
I cut down the brass studs, as they will not be used in this application.

[Extended Power]

Installed, and lights tried out inside the shop.

Gear indicator light is ridiculously bright.

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by Extended Power

I used a 2" holesaw to cut the hole, after careful measuring, as the Autometer is in fact only a 2" gauge.
Taking the back cover off the vacuum and oil pressure gauge, I removed the oil pressure gauge by just removing the nut on the back of the sender oil line.
The gauge I removed was brand new, and the oil pressure of the new engine destroyed it. (Yhe bourdon tube tried to straighten out with the pressure...the result is in the first picture...shows almost 40 psi with no pressure applied.
Anyways....
Once the hole was drilled, I filed it just enough to allow the gauge to be tight all the way around, so I didn't need anything to hold it in place.
The gauge sits right up against the instrument panel lens...no other modifications needed.
I cut down the brass studs, as they will not be used in this application.

Cool, very nice . I did something similar in the '67 I used to have with all the gauges and tach. Vacuum gauge didn't have the same style face.

[novaX522]

Got the brakes bled.
I had to remove the 2” ball in the bumper to clear the new hitch I installed. So I cut the shank to fit and reinstalled the ball.
Then found a good place to mount the brake controller.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Extended Power

Replaced the 60lb oil pressure gauge with an Autometer 0 to 100 electric.
Had yo modify the back of the instrument panel, but I think it turned out as good as it could trying to still look stock.

Looks nice. How much oil pressure does that monster engine have? My truck's engine was rebuilt about 40 years and 100k miles back, and it pegs the stock gauge when cold, with 10/30 oil. I'm not sure I want to crawl into the beast and pull the instrument cluster out anytime soon, though. I'd have to do it all outside in the weather.

[Extended Power]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Looks nice. How much oil pressure does that monster engine have? My truck's engine was rebuilt about 40 years and 100k miles back, and it pegs the stock gauge when cold, with 10/30 oil. I'm not sure I want to crawl into the beast and pull the instrument cluster out anytime soon, though. I'd have to do it all outside in the weather.

At an idle, just over 70 psi. Higher with rpm. (Of course)
Since I had no idea what the pressure was, I really didn’t want the gauge to fail, and have oil all over the new carpet.
Just much cleaner...no oil in the cab.

[Steeveedee]

Thanks! I think about that oil line occasionally, but it hasn't leaked in all these years. The General has a good design, there.

['68OrangeSunshine]

I was told by a friend my '71 Jimmy's RH Brake light was burned out.
It sure was. The dual filament 1157 bulb was totally black inside. No Tail light, or Turn Signals either. Also it fought me tooth-and-nail coming out. I had to unbolt the Taillight fixture, after twisting the burnt glass bulb out, take off the clipped-on pigtail, and punch out the brass collar. I put new 1157 long life bulbs in both taillights, and washed the inside dust off the red lenses. Works good now.
Also the Headlight Brights Dimmer Switch was burned out. Only Dim lights worked. Stomp again, and it went dark.
It was an O'Reilly part, and had a ''Lifetime Warranty.'' I had just replaced it in March '23. I cannibalised the old one out of my fallow-lying '67 K/10 Suburban. Dormant for ~25 years it works great. Meanwhile, I got a fresh replacement Dimmer Switch from ORAP under warranty. Not sure if I will put that switch on the Jimmy and keep the good Vintage part in the glovebox.
O'Reilly's Chinese repops don't last long.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I was told by a friend my '71 Jimmy's RH Brake light was burned out.
It sure was. The dual filament 1157 bulb was totally black inside. No Tail light, or Turn Signals either. Also it fought me tooth-and-nail coming out. I had to unbolt the Taillight fixture, after twisting the burnt glass bulb out, take off the clipped-on pigtail, and punch out the brass collar. I put new 1157 long life bulbs in both taillights, and washed the inside dust off the red lenses. Works good now.
Also the Headlight Brights Dimmer Switch was burned out. Only Dim lights worked. Stomp again, and it went dark.
It was an O'Reilly part, and had a ''Lifetime Warranty.'' I had just replaced it in March '23. I cannibalised the old one out of my fallow-lying '67 K/10 Suburban. Dormant for ~25 years it works great. Meanwhile, I got a fresh replacement Dimmer Switch from ORAP under warranty. Not sure if I will put that switch on the Jimmy and keep the good Vintage part in the glovebox.
O'Reilly's Chinese repops don't last long.

I wonder if they think the "Lifetime Warranty" is an adequate substitute for good quality. I'm glad you got your lights sorted out.

I followed this thread and installed an electric fan in my truck. Pulled it out of a 2002 Jeep Liberty. I didn't realize how noisy that clutch fan actually was. My main motivation was to fix an RPM-based fan vibration. Here's a video of the electric fan running. I have it set to turn on at 205° and turn back off at 195°. It's being controlled by the Sniper.

[MS66]

Originally Posted by novaX522

Got the wheels primered and painted. They came out really nice. Now I have to clean the lug nuts and center caps.

What paint did you use? Several years ago Dupli Color had a paint called Steel Wheels (WP316) that looked great on rally wheels, it was discontinued long ago. Before I found that paint, I used a silver metallic paint off the touch up paint rack. It was GM van and truck paint, can't remember the number on it, but it looked good on ralleys too. Haven't painted ralley wheels in a long time, need to redo the ones on a couple square bodies, just haven't been motivated with the cost of paint these days. That can of touch up paint was less than $5 back then, it's $17 now.

[MS66]

What I did today was ride in my truck. Showed it off to a few old guys that enjoyed talking about it. Then I rode some more. I love this truck.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I wonder if they think the "Lifetime Warranty" is an adequate substitute for good quality. I'm glad you got your lights sorted out.

I followed this thread and installed an electric fan in my truck. Pulled it out of a 2002 Jeep Liberty. I didn't realize how noisy that clutch fan actually was. My main motivation was to fix an RPM-based fan vibration. Here's a video of the electric fan running. I have it set to turn on at 205° and turn back off at 195°. It's being controlled by the Sniper.

Either that, or some ''Marketing Genius'' decided repeat failures would get people into the store more often to buy other stuff.
Probably the same guy who figured if supermarkets change the layout of their store more often, the shopper will be presented with other purchasing options they wouldn't see if they just kept coming to the same aisle to get their regular stuff every time. Usually by the time you found what items you're looking for, you find the prices went up to cover the move. Collossal waste of time, IMO.

They are quite unpopular now, but I have Flex Fans on both my 292 L6 and 350 V8. No fan clutch at all. Keeping them. [Lifetime Warranty, too.] Very popular in the Late '70s.
Don't care for Internet Experts' opinions.

Cheers, Pat. Raining cats 'n' dogs here.