Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

and here's how the 2011 REMFLEX gaskets fit the Hooker headers

[Gregski]

well since we removed the spark plugs to make it easier to get the passenger side header out might as well check them

I don't know about you but they look perfect to me

from left to right: #8 - #6 - #4 - #2

[Gregski]

so since I already had the header off I decided now was as good time as any to cut out the resonators out of the Magnaflow exhaust to see if we can put some bark back into it

[Gregski]

this is where the Magic Happens

[69heavychevy]

I had good luck using the oem exhaust gaskets that are specific for vortec heads.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 69heavychevy

I had good luck using the oem exhaust gaskets that are specific for vortec heads.

you recall the part number?

[D13]

I enjoy your thread greatly. THe only quibble I have is calling this thing rusty. Here in Michigan rusty implies box fell off, no rockers, no lower doors, and at least 1 cab mount is missing.

LOL.

[Jeramy]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so bolted up the plasti dipped roll pan, not quite the green I was hoping for and the sun behind me makes for a bad pic with the shadows but its done

in the search for the right shade for mine in a rattle can i figured out there is about 200 different camo/olive/od greens. i ended up using krylon ultra flat olive part number 4293.

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Gregski

this is where the Magic Happens

Looks like lots of the magic happens on the little white step stool

Greg, dude, thanks for keeping this going! I re read a bunch of this and it will serve as a reference for quite some time into the future. Like the pictures of Rusty, out and about. Really cool that you went thru the process of grabbing that 833 4 speed OD. Would like to have that in a shorty like yours. Please don't get tired of taking it to the Gregski level and bringing it to us with your pictures and own brand of prose.

Thanks for the info and the entertainment!

LT7A

[LT7A]

Man I hope your exhaust comes out good for you. In my experience with small displacement motors (non V8s), the resonators help take away the raspiness. I run flowmasters on two V8 vehicles and am very happy with the performance and sound, but I don't display the sticker or have the tattoo.
They are tuned cat back systems so I think that makes a difference, as do the cats. I think they are both 50 series. The description of the 40 series made me shy away from them. In your case, I think that full tail pipes would also help with the drone. Good luck!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by D13

I enjoy your thread greatly. THe only quibble I have is calling this thing rusty. Here in Michigan rusty implies box fell off, no rockers, no lower doors, and at least 1 cab mount is missing.

LOL.

Thank you, ha ha yeah I totally get it but we live in three season country where if it dropps below 70° F we bust out the blanket

just a couple pics from memory lane

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jeramy

in the search for the right shade for mine in a rattle can i figured out there is about 200 different camo/olive/od greens. i ended up using krylon ultra flat olive part number 4293.

Oh no tell me it aint so, I hate [ahem] choices....

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LT7A

... I run flowmasters on two V8 vehicles and am very happy with the performance and sound, but I don't display the sticker or have the tattoo....

Man that had me laughing so hard, thanks man

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Looks like lots of the magic happens on the little white step stool

Yup, some magic may have been removed prior to the photo shoot, didn't want you to think I was a lush

Originally Posted by LT7A

Greg, dude, thanks for keeping this going! I re read a bunch of this and it will serve as a reference for quite some time into the future. Like the pictures of Rusty, out and about. Really cool that you went thru the process of grabbing that 833 4 speed OD. Would like to have that in a shorty like yours. Please don't get tired of taking it to the Gregski level and bringing it to us with your pictures and own brand of prose.

Thanks for the info and the entertainment!

LT7A

wow, thank you so much for the kind words, I really appreciate the positive feedback - this forum is head and shoulders above the rest very good people here and I thank the moderators for keeping it civil

[Gregski]

alright well lets take a look at the spark plugs on the driver's side

Oh my that can't be good

Check out the #5 plug the second one from the left, that be what we call carbon build up it's hard as a rock

[Gregski]

time to remove the Hooker header off of the driver side, on this side we were running a Mr. Gasket gray gasket and to no surprise this side leaked too, I don't even flinch any more people, headers leak

[Gregski]

and how does the header look like, ah yes, SBD this side was Silent But Deadly

[Gregski]

and just a quick look see at that Mr. Gasket gasket off the truck - aka The Smoking Gun

[rich weyand]

Biggest thing once you have them back on is to 1) get them hot, and then 2) torque them while they're hot.

Lots easier to do this if you have the socket-cap header bolts, and use a hex ball driver.

This set comes with the ball driver:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/3420G/10002/-1

[Gregski]

well I've had it with that #1 pipe crowding #5's space where you can't even run a plug wire straight up through there, so something had to be done

first we tried a little gentle persuasion

[Gregski]

the way I see it there are two types of Car People

1. Hot Rodders

and

2. Those who never cut up a set of "perfectly" good headers - ie The Others

[Gregski]

and grinder and paint make me the welder I aint

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Biggest thing once you have them back on is to 1) get them hot, and then 2) torque them while they're hot.

Lots easier to do this if you have the socket-cap header bolts, and use a hex ball driver.

This set comes with the ball driver:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/3420G/10002/-1

Thanks Rich, those look like the ones I got already and still with these headers you gotta use an open wrench on some of them cause not even that hex ball driver can get in there

[Gregski]

and back on they go, now we have a nice gap between the #5 cylinder same as all the others

[rich weyand]

Also, after a dozen or so temperature cycles, torque them again.

Once they're tight, they'll stay that way, but to get them there, you have to get them to conform to the heads.