faux-tina paint jobs

[UK62LW]

Originally Posted by kensblue64

The piece in the pics is a glove box, from a 48 Ford truck.

It took about 2 minutes to do, and cost about 25 cents to faux patina.

Wow, nice job! Please share your technique..!?

[kensblue64]

Originally Posted by UK62LW

Wow, nice job! Please share your technique..!?

BEWARE !! BEFORE anyone tries this technique, you are one your own !!!! This has worked well for me, but your results may not turn out to your liking !!!
I will not assume any liability for your results.
ONLY use this process if you present paint work is not satisfactory to you, as there is no going back.

Lightly scuff up the panel with 600 grit sandpaper, dry sand the entire panel (no water) with heavier pressure on areas that would normally rust first, do not wipe down, only gently blow off the excess with an air gun from about 4 feet away, this will clean off most of the dust, leaving some dust to get integrated into the upcoming paint to give somewhat of a texture like a light rust.

Then lightly mist the entire panel with lacquer thinner from a spray bottle, let it dry on the panel

Time spent so far on a complete bedside will 15 minutes tops !



Next stand about 2 1/2 to 3 feet away, and lightly mist on a very , very faint coat, like a guide coat, of flat black paint, remember only a very light coat, so it will dry almost on contact.

This should only take 3 minutes or less.
Now you are almost done with the panel and you have less 20 minutes and than 75 cents invested.


Now the MAGIC

Rustolium spray paint (Aged Metallic rust) in a spray can # 285072.
They make a few similar shades, but the Metallic Rust color looks best.

Before you spray the rustolium, do not shake the can, turn upside down, and press the button about 10 tp 15 seconds, to release some of the propellent, and thinner from the can.

I know what you are thinking, "won't that make the paint partially clog up the nozzle" well you would be right, but that is exactly what you want, to simulate natural rust. Also the spray nozzle on this Metallic Rust can, is not like the standard nozzle, it is really bad. you can never get a nice splatter free uneven coat if you try.
Actually the more it splatters from the can, the worse it gets, what is exactly what you want, so simulate a natural rust.

DO NOT SHAKE THE CAN at any time, spray the liquid rust onto the panel at various distances, to produce heavier coats on areas that would naturally rust the heaviest.
Go light at first, as you can go over an area again to apply more paint.
When the sputtering is worst, that is perfect to apply the paint.

This stage should cover the entire bedside in only 5 minutes, and use 1/4 to 1/2 of the can.

Let the panel dry, and the next day scuff lightly with a 3m pad, to flatten off some of the sheen.
MIST VERY LIGHTLY WITH LACQUER THINNER, let dry, and you are done.

Total time 25 minutes, with the total cost about $3.00 for half a can of paint.

Most of the sheen will flatten out in a few weeks in the sun.
You can do your entire truck for less than $50.

My liking is to spray the entire panel with a medium coat of rust paint, from about 2 feet away, so that most of the original color still shows underneath.
Next I go in closer about 1 foot away, to re-spray areas where natural rust would be heaviest.

Good luck

When I do my blue truck, I'll post a video.

[forestb]

do you have a photo of your friends ford?

[sstock]

Originally Posted by kensblue64

I plan to patina my entire truck for $50.00 to $75.00.

I will be able to complete the entire job in about 8-10 hours, outside, on a nice sunny day.

My friend & I completed a patina job on his 48 Ford truck, and it is simple, and looks authentic.

My truck looks nice about 15 feet away, but most of the panels, fenders, box, and tailgate are have a lot of bondo, from previous owner. They look presentable, but require a lot of work, before spending any money on proper paint.

I plan to drive the truck this coming season ( I live in the Northeast PA)
so the season runs from mid April thru mid October.

Then I will order new boxsides, front bed panel, wheel housings, and tailgate.
If I have any money left, I'll order a new hood, and new fenders, as well.

I don't weld or do body work, so I figure that with the high price of labor, it will be cheaper to order rust-free repro panels, than have them done in a body shop.

The piece in the pics is a glove box, from a 48 Ford truck.

It took about 2 minutes to do, and cost about 25 cents to faux patina.

My friends truck looks Old School patina, and he has no plans to change it, it really looks good.

The last pic is how my truck looks right now.

Very interesting Ken, please keep us up to date when you do this.
Subscribing.
Steve

[60chevyjim]

the glove box looks great , I tried to find this color local , but I ended up getting it on ebay. I plan on using it on my 65 c10 rat ,and my chopped top 50 f car
the 65 is spray canned satin green with zero prep . it was black with horrible paint and bodywork when I got it. i put the rusty hood on it.

[kensblue64]

Originally Posted by kensblue64

BEWARE !! BEFORE anyone tries this technique, you are one your own !!!! This has worked well for me, but your results may not turn out to your liking !!!
I will not assume any liability for your results.
ONLY use this process if you present paint work is not satisfactory to you, as there is no going back.

Lightly scuff up the panel with 600 grit sandpaper, dry sand the entire panel (no water) with heavier pressure on areas that would normally rust first, do not wipe down, only gently blow off the excess with an air gun from about 4 feet away, this will clean off most of the dust, leaving some dust to get integrated into the upcoming paint to give somewhat of a texture like a light rust.

Then lightly mist the entire panel with lacquer thinner from a spray bottle, let it dry on the panel

Time spent so far on a complete bedside will 15 minutes tops !



Next stand about 2 1/2 to 3 feet away, and lightly mist on a very , very faint coat, like a guide coat, of flat black paint, remember only a very light coat, so it will dry almost on contact.

This should only take 3 minutes or less.
Now you are almost done with the panel and you have less 20 minutes and than 75 cents invested.


Now the MAGIC

Rustolium spray paint (Aged Metallic rust) in a spray can # 285072.
They make a few similar shades, but the Metallic Rust color looks best.

Before you spray the rustolium, do not shake the can, turn upside down, and press the button about 10 tp 15 seconds, to release some of the propellent, and thinner from the can.

I know what you are thinking, "won't that make the paint partially clog up the nozzle" well you would be right, but that is exactly what you want, to simulate natural rust. Also the spray nozzle on this Metallic Rust can, is not like the standard nozzle, it is really bad. you can never get a nice splatter free uneven coat if you try.
Actually the more it splatters from the can, the worse it gets, what is exactly what you want, so simulate a natural rust.

DO NOT SHAKE THE CAN at any time, spray the liquid rust onto the panel at various distances, to produce heavier coats on areas that would naturally rust the heaviest.
Go light at first, as you can go over an area again to apply more paint.
When the sputtering is worst, that is perfect to apply the paint.

This stage should cover the entire bedside in only 5 minutes, and use 1/4 to 1/2 of the can.

Let the panel dry, and the next day scuff lightly with a 3m pad, to flatten off some of the sheen.
MIST VERY LIGHTLY WITH LACQUER THINNER, let dry, and you are done.

Total time 25 minutes, with the total cost about $3.00 for half a can of paint.

Most of the sheen will flatten out in a few weeks in the sun.
You can do your entire truck for less than $50.

My liking is to spray the entire panel with a medium coat of rust paint, from about 2 feet away, so that most of the original color still shows underneath.
Next I go in closer about 1 foot away, to re-spray areas where natural rust would be heaviest.

Good luck

When I do my blue truck, I'll post a video.

This just keeps getting better.
As I said in a previous post I Plan to faux patina my crappy paint job, until I can buy new sheet metal to properly have my truck painted in a year or two.

I plan to permanently change the color of my truck from the current blue to Rally Red.
Previously I played around with the blue color, so I decided to actually use the rally red color, and see how it turns out.
Wow I am happy.
First I had a bunch of joist hangers left over from a backyard shed I built last summer, so I thought I would use them for my latest experiment.
I sprayed two coats of the red, and let it dry for about 2 hours, and then sprayed the "rust in a can" over the red, and let it dry overnight.
The next day I sanded it lightly with 1000 wet dry, and this is how it came out.
The pics with 2 hangers, show the original shiny red paint on top, and the finished result underneath.
Any comments would be welcome.

[richards72chevy]

FB_IMG_1580324927589.jpg

[cgster]

A lot of good faux-tina paint jobs on this thread. Are any of you applying any kind of clear coat afterwards?

[spudder]

Here is one that a friend owns. He is doing a mild drop and several other mods this spring. Going to 5 X 4 3/4 bolt pattern so he can run any of many GM wheels. I think it is going to be a slick driver.

[theastronaut]

I bought a '69 that had mostly original paint but needed a fender, hood, and cowl. The new fender already had black primer, and the hood was painted black first then green to match the original primer color. I soaked a rough terry cloth towel in lacquer thinner to rub the paint off the high spots before the paint set up all the way.

[69Tom]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

I bought a '69 that had mostly original paint but needed a fender, hood, and cowl. The new fender already had black primer, and the hood was painted black first then green to match the original primer color. I soaked a rough terry cloth towel in lacquer thinner to rub the paint off the high spots before the paint set up all the way.

Great looking truck. Which I could have kept mine in the as-is paint, but had too much damage to the metal and was a (old) re-spray anyhow.

[Asshat]

Lots of good info in here. Mine has a pretty good start, I think, just need to figure out a way to "touch-up" ther areas that need attention.

Wondering if a fresh coat on the just the grill would enhance the look.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by kensblue64

This just keeps getting better.
As I said in a previous post I Plan to faux patina my crappy paint job, until I can buy new sheet metal to properly have my truck painted in a year or two.

I plan to permanently change the color of my truck from the current blue to Rally Red.
Previously I played around with the blue color, so I decided to actually use the rally red color, and see how it turns out.
Wow I am happy.
First I had a bunch of joist hangers left over from a backyard shed I built last summer, so I thought I would use them for my latest experiment.
I sprayed two coats of the red, and let it dry for about 2 hours, and then sprayed the "rust in a can" over the red, and let it dry overnight.
The next day I sanded it lightly with 1000 wet dry, and this is how it came out.
The pics with 2 hangers, show the original shiny red paint on top, and the finished result underneath.
Any comments would be welcome.

Thanks for your write up. I plan to do this to my Suburban. This is rusted primer. I would like to add some color then enhance the rust to smooth it out. I will probably add some air brush work to also enhance the effect. Looking forward to your video..

[youngrodder]

Here's a few afters of my Suburban using the prescribed technique

Marc

[youngrodder]

More pics

[LostMy65]

[LostMy65]

I went and picked up some diesel to get some burn piles going. An older guy pulled in with a shiny older jeep. He said if I gave my truck a nice paint job, it would be a really sweet ride. I said, but then I'd have to worry about it. He smiled and said good point.

[LostMy65]

Found this in another thread.
I like both with and without clear.

.

[tazattitude]

I just finished this one a few weeks ago.
Stripped, bodyworked, 2K primed and patina'd it
basecoat/clearcoat











More pics
https://www.attitudecustompainting.c...l_suburban_c10

video of the paint job process
https://youtu.be/RRo0P_K0jyM

[SCOTI]

^^ Awesome! ^^

[AcampoDave]

Wow, Taz...nice job. One of the most natural looking ones I've seen. I bet that took way more time that just doing a straight forward paintjob.

[Asshat]

Should I just start sanding to get rid of the cracked look of the paint? That’s probably the quickest, right?

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by tazattitude

I just finished this one a few weeks ago.
Stripped, bodyworked, 2K primed and patina'd it
basecoat/clearcoat











More pics
https://www.attitudecustompainting.c...l_suburban_c10

video of the paint job process
https://youtu.be/RRo0P_K0jyM

Yeah - that is pretty nice!!

[caseyjones]

Originally Posted by Asshat

Should I just start sanding to get rid of the cracked look of the paint? That’s probably the quickest, right?

I wouldn't touch it. That looks cool.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Asshat

Should I just start sanding to get rid of the cracked look of the paint? That’s probably the quickest, right?

Originally Posted by caseyjones

I wouldn't touch it. That looks cool.

I agree, your truck is a natural: