Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

[Paul Y]

Look forward to it Geoff.

If you ever feel the need to head towards the Mother Land I have some floors that need attention....

P.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Look forward to it Geoff.

If you ever feel the need to head towards the Mother Land I have some floors that need attention....

P.

LOL!! If i ever have the honor to visit your great country and you have floors to do, i would honestly help.

Just a quick note mate, it is Jeff not the other way... lol i am normal... well ok that is not right but i spell it normal.... lol

[Paul Y]

Apologise Jeff!

I was multi tasking, one of my countless Team calls whilst going through the site, the guy speaking is/was Geoff...

P.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Apologise Jeff!

I was multi tasking, one of my countless Team calls whilst going through the site, the guy speaking is/was Geoff...

P.

LOL all is good.

[88Stanger]

Well so I had to do something with the truck, it has been so long... so I started to install all the sound deadener on the inside and oh damn, that is not a quick process or at least with me it is not. lol
I am installing the stuff everywhere in the inside, all the way up inside firewall, floor and up the back side of the cab., I am also installing it where the headliner will be and then on the outside of the foot area vents that are now going to be mid speaker air boxes. Pics coming...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Well so I had to do something with the truck, it has been so long... so I started to install all the sound deadener on the inside and oh damn, that is not a quick process or at least with me it is not. lol
I am installing the stuff everywhere in the inside, all the way up inside firewall, floor and up the back side of the cab., I am also installing it where the headliner will be and then on the outside of the foot area vents that are now going to be mid speaker air boxes. Pics coming...

Verify this is acceptable for the speakers used. It is 'sound deadening material' so it can tweak the acoustics of speakers.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Verify this is acceptable for the speakers used. It is 'sound deadening material' so it can tweak the acoustics of speakers.

You are very correct. I have installed many systems and this set up I am doing for this truck is all JL Audio. I built a custom Sub-Box which I did with a few calls and emails with JL Audio to make sure i meet all the requirements for just the subs i am using with the Ported box i built, along with discussing my plans for the separate mids and tweets, area they will be in, and "sound deadener" i am using and for my setup they actually suggested it, due to the speakers i am using.
You must have installed a few systems before to know this. I really do appreciate you asking though, keeps me on my toes... lol and i need that alot.

[Paul Y]

What deadening did you use Jeff?

I am looking at using the Kilmat as it is quite cost effective and has good reviews, but always good to hear others views and uses.

Coming along nicely by the way!

P.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

What deadening did you use Jeff?

I am looking at using the Kilmat as it is quite cost effective and has good reviews, but always good to hear others views and uses.

Coming along nicely by the way!

P.

I am using a variation of Kilmat that is approx the same cost. Good quality, works and is cheaper than some name brands. I am covering just about everything i can in it... lol. As Scoti has mentioned earlier, if you use sound deadening material on anything that could effect speaker sound, make sure the speakers your using are good with deadening material around them. Otherwise, it is amazing how much that stuff stops that nasty metal ringing sound and reduces road noise to some degree.

[Paul Y]

Following on from my what is required in a daily driver thread, internal noise/sound deadening is a big one for me so will be interested to hear what you think of the Kilmat substitute.

Interested that you are covering all surfaces, the little research I did seems to illustrate that there are two schools of though - one is to cover everything, the other is just to put the material in the middle of the panel.

Would be interested to hear others thoughts on the subject.

P.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Following on from my what is required in a daily driver thread, internal noise/sound deadening is a big one for me so will be interested to hear what you think of the Kilmat substitute.

Interested that you are covering all surfaces, the little research I did seems to illustrate that there are two schools of though - one is to cover everything, the other is just to put the material in the middle of the panel.

Would be interested to hear others thoughts on the subject.

P.

So Paul, i have used this substitute in my 1969 C10, covered everything and it works great. Please know that i am not saying anything bad or against Kilmat or any other name brand. I have used Kilmat and another big name brand and both are great products, i just got a killer deal on this other one, i basically was given the option of two for one deal and jumped on it.

I have read, discussed and understand both sides of the road, cover everything or not. I honestly myself prefer everything covered. it helps with sound, heat and to me just makes for a better sound environment if you ask me. Again, this is only my opinion and experience. I do not think either way is right or wrong honestly.

I would say if you are a big sound person, not necessarily "loud" but high quality, buy that, high quality equipment. (Disclaimer... LOL as i say that i have the cheaper version of the sound deadener BUT i have had it for over a year, tried it previously and like it, so I am using it for that reason.)

[SCOTI]

What I learned when investigating the subject of controlling noise:

Covering everything costs more. If you don't mind the additional expense, installation effort, & weight.... 100% coverage isn't bad.

If you're simply trying to remove the 'tin-can' reverb from all the large, flat, steel panels.... partial coverage @ strategic locations gets that job done. Smaller sections/area with curves or hard angles don't really have an issue w/vibration or 'tinning'.

A sound barrier over the vibration isolating mat is what helps reduce exterior noise levels.

High end vehicles utilize a vibration absorption layer which typically also has some temp barrier shielding (the cheaper quality of the product typically = the cheaper the temp insulating ability).

On top of that, a sound absorbing closed cell foam barrier is added to absorb... noise.

On top of that is a mass loaded vinyl barrier to isolate what's happening below keep it from your ears.

On top of that is carpet w/jute again in strategic locations.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What I learned when investigating the subject of controlling noise:

Covering everything costs more. If you don't mind the additional expense, installation effort, & weight.... 100% coverage isn't bad.

If you're simply trying to remove the 'tin-can' reverb from all the large, flat, steel panels.... partial coverage @ strategic locations gets that job done. Smaller sections/area with curves or hard angles don't really have an issue w/vibration or 'tinning'.

A sound barrier over the vibration isolating mat is what helps reduce exterior noise levels.

High end vehicles utilize a vibration absorption layer which typically also has some temp barrier shielding (the cheaper quality of the product typically = the cheaper the temp insulating ability).

On top of that, a sound absorbing closed cell foam barrier is added to absorb... noise.

On top of that is a mass loaded vinyl barrier to isolate what's happening below keep it from your ears.

On top of that is carpet w/jute again in strategic locations.

Scoti,
I agree with you 100%. I base what i am doing off of previous done truck and well honestly it just bugs me if it is not all done, kinda like a spotty paint or tattoos. Now this is only my personal thought but its like a person who gets covered in tattoo that have no connection to the next one or are one continuous piece, me personally i cannot do that. I do not mind it and it can look good, but i cannot.
So as your point to deadedning sound, the "tinny" sound is produced on long flat panels and not on curves or bends and you can just add the deadener to those areas (this is how i do the inside of the doors).
I think that it is neither right or wrong to put it everywhere, just costs time and $$ for product to put it everywhere.
Thanks for the input!

With that said, Scoti, what you think about adding it to the roof inside the cabin, where the head liner will go?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Scoti,
I agree with you 100%. I base what i am doing off of previous done truck and well honestly it just bugs me if it is not all done, kinda like a spotty paint or tattoos. Now this is only my personal thought but its like a person who gets covered in tattoo that have no connection to the next one or are one continuous piece, me personally i cannot do that. I do not mind it and it can look good, but i cannot.
So as your point to deadedning sound, the "tinny" sound is produced on long flat panels and not on curves or bends and you can just add the deadener to those areas (this is how i do the inside of the doors).
I think that it is neither right or wrong to put it everywhere, just costs time and $$ for product to put it everywhere.
Thanks for the input!

With that said, Scoti, what you think about adding it to the roof inside the cabin, where the head liner will go?

Depending on the material used, it's a good idea since it's one of the largest flat areas. Again, quality is paramount here as adhesion is important to keep headliner pieces in place. This is not a place to use any cheap stuff because of the heat on the roof impacting the materials used.

[Paul Y]

Jeff,

Did you use the sound deadening on the fire wall or stick with the original?

Whilst I have everything stripped out would make it easier to make a change now rather than later.

I am not a great audiophile in cars, I usually drive in silence or listening to podcasts - might be due to the fact that I can never get my car audio to sound like my home audio so just don't bother. Having said that the factory audio in my old Volvo v70R was probably one of the best I have experienced!.

I am going to go with the Kilmat for 2 reasons.

1. Its reasonably priced.
2. Its readily available!

What alternative have you ended up using or is it top secret....

Once Woody is back and driving I might be tempted to add a basic bass box and audio...stuff... but for the present will save my pennies for the much needed gearbox.

Good to hear your opinion. Always like a good discussion and learn from others.

P.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Jeff,

Did you use the sound deadening on the fire wall or stick with the original?

Whilst I have everything stripped out would make it easier to make a change now rather than later.

I am not a great audiophile in cars, I usually drive in silence or listening to podcasts - might be due to the fact that I can never get my car audio to sound like my home audio so just don't bother. Having said that the factory audio in my old Volvo v70R was probably one of the best I have experienced!.

I am going to go with the Kilmat for 2 reasons.

1. Its reasonably priced.
2. Its readily available!

What alternative have you ended up using or is it top secret....

Once Woody is back and driving I might be tempted to add a basic bass box and audio...stuff... but for the present will save my pennies for the much needed gearbox.

Good to hear your opinion. Always like a good discussion and learn from others.

P.

Paul,
So i got my stuff either off of ebay or Aamazon honestly. it came two huge rolls, that is all i can remember on it. It came with connection tape by Dynomat.

[Paul Y]

Jeff, Scotti,

Thoughts on covering the Firewall? Original or aftermarket material?

P.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Jeff, Scotti,

Thoughts on covering the Firewall? Original or aftermarket material?

P.

Just like the rest of the cab w/the exception of limitations on the ability to stack items.

Vibration dampening/thermal barrier & noise absorption would be the main items.

[88Stanger]

So I am working on another build, different all together, but still will be built on the same color idea as the truck, Red & Black. With that said, it is made of metal and poly plastics. With that said, i was thinking powder coating parts on it, but the tolerances on this other project must be alot tighter and well Poly will not work with powder coat or at least not easily. So i started to look at what is used on parts of my other project to change the color and found they use Cerakote, so i researched doing this and found that i have everything needed to do it minus the actual paint/Cerakote, well at least until yesterday when my Black and Red Cerakote showed up. So i will give it a try and see what happens. Why i am post this here is that if all goes well, i could then Cerakote parts for the truck that are not conductive metal parts or require much tighter tolerances or very extreme heat. Cerakote will take extreme heat (special formula) and so that gives me more ideas not to try... lol oh goody, here i go... LOL the mind is at work again....
Cerakote is a Ceramic based coating that is mixed with a specific catalyst and then sprayed onto the part with spray gun and then baked in an oven at a certain temp for a certain amount of time.

[Paul Y]

You can't leave us hanging like that!

We demand pictures!

P.

[SkinnyG]

Pics or it didn't happen.

[88Stanger]

ok ok .... here is the other project....

The Cerakote process is not hard at all, just like painting, well sort of. It goes on a bit different than "Paint" and not with a real deep "wet" look, but not hard to do. Worst part is that you must mix it (base and hardner) in none plastic and they suggest shooting out of non-plastic paint holder HVLP gun. So i bought a glass colander for mixing and had a touch up gun with metal paint bowl for the HVLP gun. Went on easy then you must bake it at 350 for about an hour. So i have a spare oven i use for power coating and it worked great. I can now see some very good uses for Cerakote on the truck!

[Paul Y]

I like the finish! Wonder what the trim would look like in that....

You now need to hurry up and get the truck done.

P.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

I like the finish! Wonder what the trim would look like in that....

You now need to hurry up and get the truck done.

P.

LOL well i am hoping to have cab in primer for sanding this weekend, then place it on the frame and start the pre-fitting installation of basically everything from inside the cab, wiring, brakes, fuel, bed, front fenders (inner and outer), hood and so on, then take it all back apart and final prime and paint to then re-assemble. Why is it that when you type that is sounds so simple and easy... but in reality ..... anyways... lol

[88Stanger]

Ok well update on the truck:
So I have finally completed the sound deadner install on the cab and knowing me I put it everywhere (use it for not just sound deadner but heat barrier of sorts), this is not easy and just down right tedious honestly and just a note to anyone installing the stuff use a heat gun, seems to work great for me.
I also got the front of the cab sprayed with Por 15 Top Coat Gloss black and it looks great, then I worked on my spray booth for the shop. This was not easy, took some serious time to get the rafters ready for this and now i just need to install the Plastic. I will have the roof in plastic, then the walls will roll down and up and the corners will be pinched together with clips and two box fans with Filters. This will allow me to get the primer on the cab this next weekend!