Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...

[DD1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Don’t forget that the outer rocker will probably cover that area. I think the x area is fine, all the replacement lower pieces aren’t formed worth a crap so don’t start thinking that it’s correct.

Thanks, Mike. I think I did damage it a little when I removed the brace. I had a friend of mine that is good with body work take a look at it, and he agrees with you that I should just leave it alone. When I compare the right and left sides I see a small difference in the shape of the upper part of the pillar, but I don't think I need to worry about it. The door hinges will still be in the right place, which is what matters the most. Right?

Originally Posted by mattfranklin

It keeps getting better!

Thanks, Matt. I finally feel like I am making some progress with the cab. It has seemed so far away in the past. Hopefully when I get to the point where I test fit the doors, it won't be a disaster.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

See on the top right pic how one area is close on the surface? I’d put a spot there then use ether a body hammer and or a small screwdriver to start pushing the metal of the patch into place then tag it as you go, just take your time to let the spots cool.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

No, just been waiting for better weather. On the lower piller it’s better to have the door side match up then the front side, try using a couple clamps to squeeze the other side into place. The metal moves easy enough to pull it in, don’t mess with the stock pillar!

Okay, so I will line up the door side, then work the metal to match on the front of the pillar. Should be able to manage that. Thanks. I will give it a shot this weekend.

[DD1]

Spent some time test fitting and lining up the A pillar today. I think I have it in a place where I will be able to work it into shape following Mike's advice. After I took these pics, I finished prepping the part and the lower cowl panel. Put weld through primer where I thought it was most needed, and almost painted over the white marks I made to line up the part. (I actually did paint over them, but caught it in time to wipe enough paint off).

Used a step drill and a Dremel grinding wheel to shape the hings bolt holes a bit better than what's pictured. Plug welded a few holes on the firewall / floor and that's about it for today. I was supposed to be working on the truck all day today because Sunday the wife and I were going to the Rhinebeck Car Show / Swap Meet like we do every year. Of course it's supposed to rain Sunday, so I went alone today instead. Hopefully I will be able to get the A pillar done tomorrow.

[DD1]

I took today off from work to work on the truck, because as I figured would happen, other stuff got in the way and I did not get to do anything over the weekend.

I allegedly made progress today. It's only progress if in a couple of weeks I don't end up having to take it apart and start over.

One thing I have to work on is that while the hinge bolts are screwed into the nut plate(?), it is not sitting in the cage. I think a piece of wire might help to bring the cage forward. As of now, if I were to remove the bolts, the nut plate would fall, and that would suck.

I took a lot of pics as I was going through it. I will try not to post too many of them. I will start with the "finished" product and then show some issues I had and what I did. As I look at the pics while posting, man that's one ugly looking job.

This is the end result, really bad welding and all. Still have to finish welding it up.


I took Matt's advice and started on the right and worked my way around to the left.


Then the bolt thing (technical term) dropped because it fell out of the cage. Searched long and hard for the hinge bolts and finally found them. Bent up the part and put it back in.


Worked my way over to the left.


Ended up over here. Now you might not agree with my decision on this, but there was no way to close this gap in the left corner. I determined that the filler strip I made to extend the pillar was not lined up properly. I took a spare piece I had cut from another A pillar part and cut a small filler for this gap. It will make it line up, fill the hole, and look cosmetically correct.

I don't think banging the part into the pillar would have made sense here. If the pillar edge was stock and not an extension piece I did, absolutely; but I think it's safe to assume the problem is with the extension I made.

[DD1]

Worked on the A Pillar for a little while today. My goal was to get the hinge nuts back in the cage and weld the cage in place. I did accomplish the goal, but of course I took the long route to get there. I guess the next step is to finish welding the A Pillar in place and test fit some doors!

First I used wire to get the nut cage to meet up with the nuts. This worked somewhat well, but in the end, I could not get the nut cage to meet the inside of the A Pillar at the weld spot.


After much frustration trying to get the cage pressed against the inside A Pillar, I decided to cut a small access hole on the inner cowl panel. Then I used a screwdriver to press the nut cage against the pillar while I welded from the outside. I might see if I can get the welding gun inside the hole enough to give it a quick weld on the inside just to make sure it's secure.


My first weld did not work (not pictured) and I had to re-drill the hole. Of course I drilled the hole too low and had to drill another hole above the first hole, and weld them both up.


I used my See-Snake to make sure the nuts were in the cage properly and to help guide the wires when I first started using them.


I need to adjust the access holes for the hinge bolts a bit. There is just enough space to use a small Dremel grinding stone without damaging the nuts. I had to do some grinding to get the lower bolt in after I welded the nut cage in place. WOW - As I look at the pics while posting this, the access holes look really messed up. Will have to try and even them out.

[swamp rat]

Access holes meaning the holes the bolts go through to get to the nuts? Don’t forget that the hinge will cover them up.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Access holes meaning the holes the bolts go through to get to the nuts? Don’t forget that the hinge will cover them up.

LOL.

I know they are hidden by the hinges. What I meant when I said they are ugly is that the oval shape is off enough that I may not be able to adjust the doors properly. I need to make the holes better so I can move the hinge bolts from side to side.

After I welded in the cage, I had to grind the bottom hole just to get the bolt to fit in the nut - It was off by a fraction.

[DD1]

Made some decent progress so far this weekend. Finished welding up the A pillar, it's ugly as ever, but it's not going to be seen.



Test fitted the D/S door. At first it was lined up pretty badly, but after some adjustments, I got it to fit pretty well. The bottom of the door does not line up properly with the cab corner, but will figure out what to do about that later. Maybe I can bend the door to fit?

Overall door firment:


Bottom of door to cab corner:


Of course after I removed the door, this happened:


But, I still had the access hole in the cowl panel, so I maneuvered it back into place. Then I stuck the welding nozzle in the access hole, aimed as best as I could, and welded blindly. Seems to have done the job.


Next, I decided to test fit the rocker panel. Had to make some modifications as expected. First I realized that the inner panel needs to be shortened. Not only was it too long for the rocker panel, but it's not straight.


I put the door back on and shoved the rocker panel in place. I noticed that the front of the rocker panel is too high and the back is too low. Raising the back is easy, lowering the front is not. I cut some small pieces that were in the way, but ultimately this piece of the cowl panel may be keeping it from going lower in the front. I hammered it down as best as I could.



Front and back of panel:


Rocker panel without door. Thinking about making a cut in the rocker panel right about the raised area of the cowl/floor, then hammering the cuts down and welding after the part fits.

If you look carefully you can see that the rocker is higher in the front even without the door.




As you can tell from the pics, I also need to replace some of the door skin. I have thoughts on this which I will share later tonight as I could probably use an opinion from someone.

[DD1]

Today I really did not have much of a chance to do anything on the truck. I did check out the rust on the D/S door and it seems to be limited to the lower corners. I used a wire wheel and removed paint in the lower part of the door and some random parts at the middle and top.

Other than using bondo to cover the rust holes, there was not much bondo at the top of the door. They did use bondo to cover some small holes in the door, which I imagine was for trim(?).

Planning on ordering a lower door skin that is 13" high and using it to repair the corners of the door. I don't want to use a leftover piece of metal as the panel will have the right curve already and it's only $16. I think I can cut the same piece to use on both doors. I don't see any real difference in the pics of the right and left panels.

[twoskies]

hey

subscribed, because the pillar is what i cut out on my drivers side on Tuesdau, didnt have to go as far up as yours, i do have a question, when you removed your old pillar was there a piece behind it or is that where the outer floor section connects, Thanks for all the pictures, it does help with mine

[DD1]

Originally Posted by twoskies

hey

subscribed, because the pillar is what i cut out on my drivers side on Tuesdau, didnt have to go as far up as yours, i do have a question, when you removed your old pillar was there a piece behind it or is that where the outer floor section connects, Thanks for all the pictures, it does help with mine

Hey twoskies, thanks for subscribing. Glad my posts are helping. The A pillar goes against the inner cowl panel at the top of the floor and directly against the floor at the bottom. If you look at the pic on my 5/14/18 post, the pillar is against the inner cowl panel where the two bolts are. The bottom of the pillar goes right against the floor. Glad to hear you did not have to go as high as I did; that should make it easier.

Have you started a thread about your build? If so, replay and post a link to it.

Congrats on being 5 years cancer free! Wishing you many more cancer free years.

[DD1]

I was thinking about it the other day and I came to the realization that I have replaced or purchased replacement parts for the following large items:

- Cab
- Cab Floor
- Engine
- Bed Floor
- One bedside
- One bed front
- Inner Wheel Tubs
- Inner Fenders
- Fenders
- Bumper
- Belt Driven Engine Accessories (switched to serpentine)
- Exhaust

This does not include smaller parts I have purchased and/or replaced over the past 5-6 years. I probably should have just bought a running truck that did not need as much work.

Not complaining, just making an observation. I did learn some new skills in the process such as how to weld really badly. Just a thought that came to me in a moment of irony.

[mattfranklin]

Originally Posted by DD1

I was thinking about it the other day and I came to the realization that I have replaced or purchased replacement parts for the following large items:

- Cab
- Cab Floor
- Engine
- Bed Floor
- One bedside
- One bed front
- Inner Wheel Tubs
- Inner Fenders
- Fenders
- Bumper
- Belt Driven Engine Accessories (switched to serpentine)
- Exhaust

This does not include smaller parts I have purchased and/or replaced over the past 5-6 years. I probably should have just bought a running truck that did not need as much work.

Not complaining, just making an observation. I did learn some new skills in the process such as how to weld really badly. Just a thought that came to me in a moment of irony.

Lots of hard work and a great education for you (for us, too). I look forward to the day when I can fiddle with body work on mine and apply some of what I'm learning.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by mattfranklin

Lots of hard work and a great education for you (for us, too). I look forward to the day when I can fiddle with body work on mine and apply some of what I'm learning.

That is true, and I will be extremely happy and proud the day it is done. Like I said, I was not complaining as much as making an observation that came to me in a moment of reflection.

Of course, if I could go back and do it again, I think I would trade being able to drive a different truck over the past 6 years for having this one stuck in my garage.

[DD1]

A friend helped me test fit the passenger door over the weekend. The last time I test fit the door, it was too close in the top front of the door. Same problem this time. We need to figure out what the right adjustment is and then figure out everything else. Going to have to do some research on this site.

The door does not line up with the cab corners on this side either. I should have kept the door on when I installed the cab corner to make sure it lines up. But then again, I don't think I had the A pillar installed, so I probably could not have done that. I am guessing I may need to cut and adjust the cab corner.

In the meantime, the lower door skin I ordered should arrive this week.



This is from when I test fit the door in July 2016 (doesn't seem that long ago). I forgot to take pics this weekend.

[DD1]

This weekend I am going to try and bolt the cab on the frame to properly test fit the doors, rocker, and fenders at the same time.

I was looking at the pics of the cab corners (it's late and I'm tired - not going out to look at the actual cab corners) and was wondering if the gap problem with the door could be solved by taking a piece of wood and gently banging out the B Pillar where the cab corner is spot welded to it.

EDIT: Wondering if I can bang out this part from the inside to match the shape of the door.

[DD1]

Today was the first step in putting the cab on the frame and lining up all the parts. I had some issues with the cab installation kit I got from Classic Parts including spare parts (too many bushings and sleeves), too many washers for the rear mounts and not enough for the front mount. I am either going to go to Home Depot for the washers and/or call classic parts and ask them to send additional washers.

We also decided that I should remove the braces in the cab before I finish test fitting the door and rocker panel. Last, I want to remove the bedsides and front so I have access to the back of the cab if I need it.

See the pics at the end; I am having trouble getting the back of the bedside to budge. I think I got the welds in the back, but maybe not. After I sliced my knee hoping running into some sharp metal, I tried a little longer then called it a day. Any suggestions on removing the bedside is appreciated. I have searched the forum and the only thing I can think is to recheck the welds.

Here is a pic of the cab sitting on the frame. I used my engine lift and home made cab lifter to raise it, and with the help of a couple friends we steered it over the engine and frame.



I did notice a difference in the way the door shifted after being on the frame instead of the cart. Disclaimer: the before pic is from 2016 since I forgot to take a pic when I installed the door this time, but it was pretty much the same.

Before / After Cab on Frame:


Next I wanted to move the bed back since I did not think about removing the bolts for the bed front before I moved the cab. Only 4 of the 8 bolts were attached; 3 came off easy and I cut one off. Then it was pretty easy to lift the bed and move it by myself.


The front area where the bedside attached to the floor was so rusted, it was easier to just cut the bedside out instead of removing the bolts. It's nice when you don't care about saving the part you are removing.



These 2 bolts in the back were a PAIN to get out. I had to use a small ratchet and slowly unscrew them. They were in a tough spot to get to. I could have removed the bumper for more clearance, but that's a lot of extra work for 2 bolts.


I am pretty sure I got the 2 welds in the back of the bedside, but something is holding the bed to the floor. I cannot get the back of the bed to budge!

[swamp rat]

I think there is a 3rd bolt in the back that is hard to spot, Don’t quote me on that but I recall the same problem, then I had to rock the heck out of it to pull it up and out. It’s heavy so if your alone rig up the engine hoist to the center stake pocket (long bed) or both front and rear (short bed) for added control.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I think there is a 3rd bolt in the back that is hard to spot, Don’t quote me on that but I recall the same problem, then I had to rock the heck out of it to pull it up and out. It’s heavy so if your alone rig up the engine hoist to the center stake pocket (long bed) or both front and rear (short bed) for added control.

Thanks for the tip on the engine hoist, Mike. It's probably safer than the way I was going to remove it. At least I did keep one bolt attached to the bed front so it does not completely fall off.

I was in the garage and took a quick look back there; I believe that you are probably right that I might have missed a bolt, but I have no idea where it is. This weekend I will look at it from underneath and see if I can find it. It seems to be locked on by the rear stake pocket; worse case I'll use the Sawzall to cut the stake completely off the floor.

Even though I know I still have a good amount of work to do on the cab, it's is sort of refreshing to see it back on the frame. It's sort of makes me feel like I am a little closer to the end goal.

I emailed Classic Parts and basically asked them WTF is in the cab mount kit they sent me. I included a photo from their website marked with questions, and a photo of the parts in the package I received with notes of how many of each part I received. Some of the parts are not in the photo as I installed them on one side of the cab, however I have noted if I received more than what is in the picture. There were more parts than what it shown on the LMC website or on posts on this forum. I don't really know what I am supposed to do with this stuff. It was missing the washers for the larger diameter bolts and the spacers.

Yes, I can probably go to Home Depot and get large washers, and I will probably do that, but CP needs to know they messed this up. (They did mess it up, right?) I will say they are usually very good with customer service and when they make a mistake they work with you to correct it. Despite the issues with the cab mount kit, I am still a fan of Classic Parts.

Here is what I sent them:

1. Picture from their website of what I SHOULD have received:


Here are the parts I ACTUALLY received:


and

[mattfranklin]

I hate it when stuff like that happens. I went through several iterations with stainless brake lines from a different company. When I finally got the right person it went better.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by mattfranklin

I hate it when stuff like that happens. I went through several iterations with stainless brake lines from a different company. When I finally got the right person it went better.

Yeah, I hear ya. Like I said though, Classic Parts usually makes it right without any issues. When I ordered the bolt set for the inner tub the bag for one of the bolts was broken. I called and asked how many bolts should be in it so I can make sure I was not missing any; they told me not to worry about it and they sent me another set.

What's weird about this is even the picture on the website seems to have extra parts, and unlike the radiator support mount kit, this one has no instructions. But the hodgepodge of parts that was in the Cab kit I got is just bizarre.

Moving back to the bedside, I started to think that chopping off the rear stake might not be the best idea because if there is another bolt left as Mike suggested, I should learn where it is for the other side which I need to save. Then I thought if I chop it off, it might be easier for me to see what was holding it down in the first place. So back to the original plan, make one last look for any bolts I have not found, then chop the stake off if I can't get it to work then proper way.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I think there is a 3rd bolt in the back that is hard to spot, Don’t quote me on that but I recall the same problem, then I had to rock the heck out of it to pull it up and out. It’s heavy so if your alone rig up the engine hoist to the center stake pocket (long bed) or both front and rear (short bed) for added control.

Mike, you were pretty much on track. There were two bolts I missed in the back of the bedside. They were right in front of me and I don't know why I never bothered trying to remove them. Once they were unbolted the back came off easy, some banging and cutting in the front and the bedside was off.

I also fought the lazy part of my brain and took your advice about the engine lift. I probably should have put on the leg extensions, but that would have been too easy.
The two bolts I (should not have) missed.






Next I started to remove the bolts holding the bed front to the bed. Some of them need to be cut off.

[DD1]

Today I did some "clean-up;" I put quotes on the words "clean-up" because I made a mess while "cleaning up." I took the firewall from the old cab and removed anything that might be usable, then dumped it in my backyard until I can get to the scrapyard. That cab dolly came in handy now that the cab is not on it. Then I removed the bracing from the cab. Last, I tackled some of the bolts on the bed front. Most of them will have to be cut off, but I got a few of them out.

Now I have parts and tools laying all over the place; had to stop to go to the in-laws for fathers day.

Now I can really see how beat up and banged up the bed floor is; I am glad I got another one. I was taking a good look at the rust underneath and it is in really bad shape.

I decided that once the floor is off, I will replace the springs, and use a shock relocation kit to try & move the bottom of the coil-over shocks a little bit forward. I also want to roll the truck outside and power-wash the frame.

Here is my progress so far with the bed. I need to stop using the bed and cab for parts and tool storage.


All the braces are gone from the cab.


I messed up the back of the cab removing one of the braces, but it's not too bad. Should be an easy fix.


Here are my crappy springs.

[DD1]

Got my new springs, brake drums, brake hardware, thermostat / gasket, and wheel cylinders. I don't know if I need all the brake parts, but I purchased them from Advance Auto, so I can just return them if it turns out I don't need anything. But if I remove the drum and everything needs to be replaced (which will probably be the case), I have it already.

Still waiting for Summit to send me the coil spring retainers which should arrive on Friday. Hoping to get a chance to at least remove the springs on Friday before we go on vacation, but if not will start next weekend.

It's Springtime! (My wife did not think this was funny when I showed her the text I sent to a friend.)

[swamp rat]

Glad ya figured it out!

[DD1]

Made a decision today about the coil-over shocks. After discussing it in detail with a friend, and realizing how much work is involved in removing the axle U-bolt and finding a replacement U-Bolt, I decided to scrap the coil-overs. I ordered normal shocks from Advance Auto which we can hopefully install next weekend when I get back from vacation.

From a cost/hassle factor, it was less cost and less hassle to replace the shocks. I am returning the shock relocation kit to Summit. I ordered a bushing for the track bar, so the goal is to replace the springs and retainer cups, shocks, and track bar bushings. If things go well, we will tackle the rear brakes as well.

Maybe I can sell the coil-overs to someone who needs them.