Ratchet's Blazer - 1970 2wd with Original paint

[smbrouss70]

I drove the Blazer to a show last weekend about 2 hours away from my house. Once I got off the interstate, it didn't want to shift through the gears anymore. It pulled fine in gear, just didn't want to shift without winding it out in each gear and letting off of the gas completely. I ended up spending 6 hours on the road Sunday to drive home, get the diesel and the trailer, drive back to load the Blazer, then drive home and park it in the garage. I "believe" it may be the governor or some trash in the valve body, so that is this weekend's plans.

I am getting tired of the issues that I seem to keep having with this automatic, and I really didn't want to get rid of the manual in the beginning, I just wanted an overdrive. I have gotten a couple of quotes and I am leaning hard towards putting a TKO-600 in it and never have to worry about it again... except for a worn out clutch.

[Tom Vogel]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

I drove the Blazer to a show last weekend about 2 hours away from my house. Once I got off the interstate, it didn't want to shift through the gears anymore. It pulled fine in gear, just didn't want to shift without winding it out in each gear and letting off of the gas completely. I ended up spending 6 hours on the road Sunday to drive home, get the diesel and the trailer, drive back to load the Blazer, then drive home and park it in the garage. I "believe" it may be the governor or some trash in the valve body, so that is this weekend's plans.

I am getting tired of the issues that I seem to keep having with this automatic, and I really didn't want to get rid of the manual in the beginning, I just wanted an overdrive. I have gotten a couple of quotes and I am leaning hard towards putting a TKO-600 in it and never have to worry about it again... except for a worn out clutch.

Hmmm.... it’s been years since I had a t350, but check the vacuum lines to the modulator. A crack or hole or getting knocked loose will stop it from shifting.

[smbrouss70]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

Hmmm.... it’s been years since I had a t350, but check the vacuum lines to the modulator. A crack or hole or getting knocked loose will stop it from shifting.

It is a 700-R4, so no vacuum modulator, but Thanks. I did get it shifting again yesterday.

[smbrouss70]

I pulled the governor out of the trans yesterday and sure enough, the valve was sticking in it, as per the ASE YouTube mechanics' advice. I pulled the governor in the spare 700-R4 that I have and the valve in it moved freely like it should. It also had the VSS from the early 90's that still uses a speedo gear, so once I get a connector in for it, I can ditch the POS sending unit that Dakota Digital sent with their gauges, and I won't have to pull the tail housing to press on a reluctor wheel. So I may hold off on ordering the GPS module for now.

I put the governor in and the first few times it didn't want to shift until 4000 RPM, but once it went through all the gears a few times it seems to be acting normal again. It does seem like my TV cable is out of whack though, because the shifts aren't happening when they should based on how much throttle I'm giving it. I'll work with that, but it's looking good so far.

All of these issues are still making me want to swap it to the TKO, though. So that is a definite swap that is coming in the near future.

[Chulisohombre]

I had so many trans issues with autos over the years. That’s why I stuck with the sm465 that came in my blazer. It is getting very sloppy after 40 years though and I’ll need to rebuild it soon but it hasn’t ever had a problem except the coupler breaking between the transmission and transfer case. Good you got it running and was a fairly simple fix.

[smbrouss70]

Yeah, I've thought about throwing the SM465 back in since I kept everything that came out, but I'm too used to having an overdrive now. I could add a Gear Vendors behind it, but it would cost almost as much as the TKO setup will, and it will still shift like a school bus. So I might as well go with one of the more performance oriented manuals. I'm pretty tired of the issues that come from automatics, so I'm sure all of my "toys" from now on will be a stick.

[Chulisohombre]

Haha. Yep school bus shifting kinda sucks and no od does too. But I generally don’t go much over 60 in my blazer. If I still drive it long distances I’d want the od though. Having a six speed would be fun. And get much better mileage. But most of my trips are under a hundred miles either way.

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

I put the governor in and the first few times it didn't want to shift until 4000 RPM, but once it went through all the gears a few times it seems to be acting normal again. It does seem like my TV cable is out of whack though, because the shifts aren't happening when they should based on how much throttle I'm giving it. I'll work with that, but it's looking good so far.

We had issues with the shifts in our truck, bought a governor calibration kit and after swapping weights and springs a few times we have it pretty well dialed in. It's really easy, just takes some time.

[Chulisohombre]

The tv cable is fairly easy to set.
Adjustment procedure (self-adjusting cable)

1. Stop the engine.
2. Depress the adjusting tab and move the slider back through the fitting away from the carburetor until it stops.
3. Release the adjustment tab.
4. Move the throttle linkage to rest against the full throttle stop, then release it .
5. Check the cable to insure that it is not sticking or binding.
6. Road test the vehicle.
7. If the problem still exists, refer to the cable diagnosis section.
DIAGNOSIS

A TV cable that is sticky; misadjusted, broken or incorrect for the vehicle can cause various transmission malfunctions. A sticky or binding TV cable can result in delayed or full throttle upshifts (figure 9). At other times, the TV cable may stick or bind only when the engine off. To check for this problem, run the engine at idle with the transmission selector in neutral and the parking brake set. Pull the end of the TV cable located on the throttle linkage, through its full range of travel, then release it. It should return to rest against the cable terminal (figure 10), it may be caused by one or more of the following conditions:

1. A sharply bent or damaged TV cable hosing. To correct this problem, try rerouting the cable. If this doesn't cure the problem, replace the cable.

2. A burr or sharp end on the TV link. This condition would cause the link to drag in the TV cable housing. You can correct this situation by filing the end smooth but Do Not shorten the link.

3. Misalignment of the throttle lever and bracket assembly on the valve body. Correct the alignment and torque the bolts to the proper specifications as noted in your service manual.

4. A bent TV link. Straighten or replace the link as required.

5. A binding or damaged throttle lever and bracket assembly. Straighten or replace the assembly as required.

6. An unhooked or damaged throttle lever spring. Reconnect the spring if it is unhooked. If it is damaged, replace the throttle lever and bracket assembly.

7. An incorrectly adjusted TV cable. (A) If the cable is adjusted too long, one of the following conditions may result: (1) early shifts, slipping, and/or no detent downshifts; (2) low line pressure. (B) If the cable is adjusted shore, or not hooked up at all, line pressure and shift points will rise and full throttle operation may not be possible.
Hope that helps.

[smbrouss70]

Originally Posted by C10_ustacould

We had issues with the shifts in our truck, bought a governor calibration kit and after swapping weights and springs a few times we have it pretty well dialed in. It's really easy, just takes some time.

Yeah, I know I could, but I just want to get it back to where it was before this happened. I'm not looking to spend anymore on something that I know is getting replaced before June of next year.

Originally Posted by Chulisohombre

The tv cable is fairly easy to set.
Adjustment procedure (self-adjusting cable)....................

Thanks for the info. I know it's relatively simple. I have the Bowtie Overdrives TV-Made-EZ kit for my quadrajet, I just need to get the gauge hooked back up and verify pressures again... If I can find my gauge. I know part of the problem that I noticed is that my gas pedal is not giving full throttle to the carb anymore, not sure if my bracket bent, or if the set screw on the carb end of the cable has slipped or what, but I need to get that right before I mess with the TV cable anymore.

[smbrouss70]

I checked out the throttle cable situation and everything is definitely bent. I had made a bracket to bolt on top of the TV-Made-EZ bracket and it seems that that whole arm sticking out from under the carb is bent forward. I'll pull the carb off and straighten the bracket out, and I ordered a bracket that I might be able to modify enough to make it work to hold just the throttle cable. Hopefully that takes some stress off of the BTO bracket and doesn't bend it again.

[smbrouss70]

Well, the BTO bracket was definitely bent once I got it off and had a chance to look it over. For a while, I didn't think that I was going to be able to use the bracket that I bought because the portion that drops down to clear the vacuum port and crosses over so that it can be held with the 2 back studs on the Quadrajet was hitting the runner on the intake. I eventually decided to grind until it fit and reinforce it after if I had to. To my surprise, it took way less grinding than I thought and no more reinforcing was necessary. I cut out the TV cable portion of the new bracket enough to clear the back of the cable adjuster, and I think it just might work. Then I scuffed up the gold plating real good and applied my favorite VHT Satin Black.

Now for the sort-of bad news... My throttle cable had to be taken apart to get it out of the old bracket and the cable itself frayed really badly which will make it very difficult to get it back together... IF it's not too short. The new bracket is further back than the old one by an inch, maybe inch and a half, so I'm afraid that my previously "cut-to-fit" might be cut too short. I've ordered another cable so that I can have it for next weekend after I get back from TX. Even if I can get the old one to work, I'll probably need the new cable when I switch to the Sniper.

[smbrouss70]

It took me a while but I got it all together. Since the bracket moved back towards the firewall and inch or so, I had to cut an inch out of the outer cable, which it needed, in order for the inner cable to be able to reach all the way to the carb linkage. It was not fun getting the frayed cable back into the pieces that it needed to go through, I don't want to have to do that again. I hooked up the TV cable and set it, then took if for a test drive... That 700-R4 must have heard me talking about throwing it away in favor of a TKO, because that SOB is shifting like it's supposed to now.

Next weekend I'll get the VSS in and wired so that I can have a speedometer again, see what I need to install the rear sway bar that I got from Wynne, clean it up and polish the damn wheels again. Then I'll be ready for our meet in St. Francisville!

[gringoloco]

Glad that all worked out. When it comes time for wheels, based on your experience, I’m looking into the clear cerakote...

[smbrouss70]

Does that dull the finish at all like a clear powder coat will?

[gringoloco]

Not that I can tell from the below pictures. This their high-gloss clear over polished/machined:

[smbrouss70]

I looked it up and found their video on it. Apparently it can handle just about anything. I might have to look into that further.

Cerakote Clear (Aluminum) MC-5100 Torture Test -...

[lks dcvn]

Can you take some pictures of your interior - I'm trying to determine the stock color of the dash pad, door arm rests and the column for my GMC Jimmy twin of your truck. I just went through your entire build thread and only saw glimpses of the interior spots noted.

Your Blazer looks awesome by the way! Well deserved recognition at the show.

[Chulisohombre]

Glad you figured out the trans problem. Must have been to much stress innit to bend it. Or just weak metal. Much easier to keep what’s there already if you can get it running correct.

[smbrouss70]

Originally Posted by lks dcvn

Can you take some pictures of your interior - I'm trying to determine the stock color of the dash pad, door arm rests and the column for my GMC Jimmy twin of your truck. I just went through your entire build thread and only saw glimpses of the interior spots noted.

Your Blazer looks awesome by the way! Well deserved recognition at the show.

Thanks! My Blazer shows code 674 for Blue Vinyl Trim. The dash pad was pretty bad when I got it but a dark blue re-pop dash pad matched perfectly. I bought Parchment seat covers and got the front buckets done just in time for HRPT of 2015 and still haven't re-covered the back seat yet. The parchment seat covers look good in it with the white top, but they show dirt too easily for me, so I haven't decided whether I want to continue with that color change or not yet. I just can't decide what color would look good with the dark blue.

The steering column is painted body color as they all were unless you had a factory tilt, which were all black. I've added some pictures that I have on my computer to show what I have right now, if you need any others, it will have to wait until I get home from TX again.

Originally Posted by Chulisohombre

Glad you figured out the trans problem. Must have been to much stress innit to bend it. Or just weak metal. Much easier to keep what’s there already if you can get it running correct.

Yeah, It's working good again. I put about 80 miles on it this weekend running around with a buddy that came into town going to a couple of shows and it shifted good the whole time. I ended up having to come home in the rain which caused my wheels to be even nastier than they already were. I ordered a test size of the clear cerakote shown above to test on a wheel that nobody cares about, if that doesn't work out I may have to get a set of painted wheels that I can just hose off. I love the look of the polished Gassers, but so far I am hating the upkeep that they demand.

[Chulisohombre]

Tge keeping it shiny part is why nothing on my truck is chrome anymore. Just black and blue with a white top. I went with Chevy bow tie seat covers in black. I also went with white painted wagon wheels on mine so all I gave to do is hose them off and wipe them with some mothers wax. Keeps them looking good and doesn’t let them rust. With yours the bigger chrome rims look decent. I just never liked the shiny look of chrome everywhere.

[lks dcvn]

Thanks for the pix! I think I have a blue column in the stash somewhere - I think it is for auto though. I guess I can just pull the pin on the lever and remove it and use it that way it is so I don't need to find a blue manual column (yet).

I picked up this set of blazer bucket seats awhile back before I found a blue blazer for sale so I'll likely install these when the time comes. Just need to make sure the Jimmy came with sport buckets and not utility so I have the right floor mounting holes.

[smbrouss70]

Mine had utility buckets, plus I am about 6' tall, so I did this...

Originally Posted by bamachem

This is the bolt pattern in the floor of my 72 K5 where the REAR feet of the driver seat mount. The holes on the left line up with the seat. The holes on the right were plugged with extra bolts. All holes appear to be factory, with captive nuts below. I plan to move the seat back to utilize the mounting holes on the right.



Here's the plate I used. 4" wide X 1/4" thick galvanized flat bar (carbon steel). I cut two 5" long sections.



First step is to unbolt the front feet of the seat and to just loosen the rear bolts - but do NOT remove them from the original holes. Slide the steel plate under the feet and line it up with the edges of the OEM seat frame and mark the holes. Mark the plates for both feet.



Drill the holes and mount the plates to the floor using the OEM bolts.



Now take the rear seat mounting bolts out of the original holes. Slide the seat back and then put the bolts in the rearmost set of holes. Now you can see that the front feet slide back and onto the plates you just mounted up front. Mark where the new mounting holes need to be, remove the plates, drill the holes. Go ahead and paint the plates at this point before you install them back in the truck. Paint all edges and holes well. Finally mount the plates with the OEM bolts on the floor hump again.

NOW USE HIGH-GRADE HARDWARE TO MOUNT THE SEATS TO THE PLATES - Grade 5 or Grade 8.

No need for welding anything as you can easily get to the bolt heads and the nuts. I would suggest using a split washer on each to make sure they don't loosen up with time/vibration.

Result? About 2" of additional leg room! It's almost too much leg room now.

[lks dcvn]

Nice - I have a new mod to make on my blazers now.

If your Blazer is a 70 are they (extra set of holes and supports under the floor) on all models and years? I haven't looked under them for seat holes yet.

Thanks for the pix and info!

[smbrouss70]

Mine only has the back set of holes for the utility buckets. I'm not sure when they started putting both sets of holes.