S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

A wiring diagram can be your friend. You could grab an ohm meter and start checking to see what the terminals do when you press the plunger in and out

This is how I went about mine and how my switch hooked up.

The front pair is for the brake light switch. When the plunger is opened (pedal depressed) the switch is closed and brake lights light up.

The rear pair terminals are for the TCC and Cruise Control. They are normally closed. When the pedal is depressed these circuits open cutting the power to the TCC and Cruise control.

I relocated my switch so it couldn't be seen below the dash. See Post 177 here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=664837&page=8


Referenced from: http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/vi...p?f=34&t=72495

Hussy's right, on the 4 pin brake switch 1 pair is normally open(cold, the brake light switch) and the other pair is closed(hot, runs the cruise control or the TCC switch.

[47owner]

This is great information. I am searching for an S10 donor. I do have the rear end off of a 4x4 blazer to get the 4" width. My question is the engine location. i read, but could not find it again, if I use the 4.3 V6 Vortec engine, it would have to move back 7" to accommodate the radiator?

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by 47owner

This is great information. I am searching for an S10 donor. I do have the rear end off of a 4x4 blazer to get the 4" width. My question is the engine location. i read, but could not find it again, if I use the 4.3 V6 Vortec engine, it would have to move back 7" to accommodate the radiator?

Yes, the general figure is at least 6 inches to accommodate the E fan. I generally put the cab on and then place the driveline so that the distributor is about 1 inch or so in front of the firewall. If you are using an LS motor make sure there is an inch or so there is behind the passenger head.
On the radiator question; just go to Speedway. And search for a universal 19 x 22 radiator. If you're using the 4.3 or the 5.7 is one with a driver's side upper hose. If your gonna have an LS motor you need the passenger side upper hose.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by 47owner

This is great information. I am searching for an S10 donor. I do have the rear end off of a 4x4 blazer to get the 4" width. My question is the engine location. i read, but could not find it again, if I use the 4.3 V6 Vortec engine, it would have to move back 7" to accommodate the radiator?

I just did a 4.3 s10 truck and moved the engine back 7", I ran the stock s10 radiator and clutch fan. in retrospect I would probably move it back 9-10" next time. the best thing is I think if I move it back 10 I can use a standard cab one piece driveshaft unmodified.

[lower50's]

Seems almost easy. Great info guys!!

[skymangs]

Joedoh, are you sure you would be inside the firewall at 10 inches.

[skymangs]

Here is a bit on installing an LS. I use LT1swaps.com for the wiring. Then I make my own motor mount adapters on the engine side. I use Speedway 19 x 22 universal radiator with the passenger side upper hose. Then I go on eBay and buy a straight billet thermostat housing. I use Hooker cast headers(also on eBay) then I place the motor with the passenger side head about one inch in front of the firewall. You'll want to run a maf or it may not idle right. Send your PCM to Brennen at LT1swaps.com to have it reprogrammed to run in standalone mode and have a basic performance tune put on it. That's about all there is to it. The rest is basic mechanics. Oh yeah, if you choose to run an LS you'll need to separate harnesses. The engine and the body. I use easy wirings 12 or 21 circuit harness, depending on how many accessories I am going to run.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Joedoh, are you sure you would be inside the firewall at 10 inches.

I dont think so, I did 5.5 inches on the last one and the clutch fan didnt fit, so I did 7" on this one and the clutch fan fit but there was still a good couple inches left at the back of the engine to the firewall.

This is for a 4.3, not a v8, but I guess maybe I should go outside and measure instead of just spouting

the thing is, when people use s10 V8 swap mounts flipped over to move a V8 engine back 5", it actually could go more than 5" with a 4.3, because of where the extra cylinder bank on a V8 is. on an s10 V8 swap you need to move the V8 forward 5" to clear the S10 firewall, so installing a V8 to stock unaltered 4.3 mounts on can be considered moving the V8 back 5" on the s10 frame, then another 3-5" with flipped swap mounts.

I will go measure, maybe something like the head will hit the flat part of the firewall before the distributor hits the bell part. its coooold outside though, like 16 degrees today!

[47owner]

Thanks everyone. This is my first build, waiting on my sons, to make it a family project.

[mxer666]

I know moving the motor back is better for handling, etc. I used EZ swaps plates to move a 350 back around 4", but mounted the fan in front of the rad, wired in reverse. Works great

[joedoh]

I looked today and with a 7" rearward move there is a comfortable 2" more, and 3 inches if you clearance slightly for the passenger side head.



I am doing a 41 on S10 right now and I am going to try 9.5" and a std cab driveshaft.

[skymangs]

Okay, sounds good. Let us know how that works out for you.

[tlorber]

Does anyone know if there is a thread/information on gauge options that work with LS conversions? I'd like to know what manufacturers make gauges that have an old school look but work with GM+LS setups. I know my options are more limited (with a one year GMC) than I would be with a Chevy, but I'm at the point where I need to make a decision.

[skymangs]

Pretty much any electronic gauge will work. I've started making my own. I start with Speedhut most basic 80 mph Speedo. And I cut out the backing of they gauge. Then they have a custom faceplate made at my graphics shop. Then I simply put the Speedhut gauge in the hole looks just like factory. You could also send your gauge to Redline and they will convert your stock gauge into a new electronic one. But it'll cost you like $500. That's what I had done on Rico's 54 build.

[HUSSEY]

Never heard of Speedhut gauges, took a peek at their website and wow...cool outfit. Lots of selections and dropdown to custom design your own gauges.

The OBD2 Can Bus gauges are really cool. Not sure if the GM protocol is compatible but simply plugging into your OBD2 plug couldn't get any easier for gauge hook-up.

[reaper71]

I have used 5 sets of Speedhut gauges so far with the GPS speedo and will never go back!
The gauges are much thinner than other companies and you can make them completely custom to fit your taste Just My Opinion.

Mark...

[tlorber]

Thanks for the input, guys. I have opted to go with VDO gauges. They have a series called Heritage Chrome, which looks pretty old school and similar to the stock gauges that I have. Speedo is compatible with the 4L60E transmission. They come with the required sensors and the place I am buying them from will provide the adapter bushing for the oil pressure sensor to fit into the LS block. Their fuel gauge requires a sender that operates from 10-180 ohms, and they provide that with the kit. However, rather than opening the tank back up, I read that there is an adapter that converts the post '67 GM sender's signal (which goes from 0-90 ohms) to one that he VDO and others can understand. I'll report back when they arrive and I've had a chance to mess around with them.

[skymangs]

Sorry, this took so long. I am in the middle of moving from Missouri to Iowa. I have never seen an adapter that converts the ohms from 0–30 to 10–180 ohms. I thought convertors were a thing of myth. And I hate to tell you by the year break is 64. 64 and older is 0–30 ohms. While 65 and newer were 0–90 ohms. You'll have to open that tank.

[tlorber]

If you search online for "Fuel Gauge Interface Module" you will see what I am talking about. Speedway motors makes one that is supposedly infinitely adjustable but it is $126.00. I'm hoping to just find a preset one for cheaper that will convert the S10 signal to the VDO gauge.

[reaper71]

That is one major reason I use the Speedhut gauges they can be calibrated for any sending unit on the market, It comes with the cable you plug in the back and program as needed then remove cable.

[b-mac]

Reaper, I was going to ask you what size of those speedhut gauges you used on your AD build, but then I checked out the build page. Wow...Amazing work!

Question remains...would the 4.5" gauges work, and look ok in a stock dash. I don't like it when it looks like there is too much bezel. Like you scabbed something in.
Anyone else used them in a stock dash?

[reaper71]

To answer that question, I believe the stock opening is 4 5/8" and the Speedhut are a true 4 1/2 (mounting is 4 1/4) so you would not have a ton of space around the bezel and the dash opening.
For a reference you could cut out 2 4 1/2 circles from cardboard or poster board and set in the hole to get a visual.
If you did like the way it looks make a plate that is attached from the backside of dash I.E welded or bolted and drop your gauges through the hole (i used 3 3/8" gauges do to a custom built dash) Thank's for the compliments BTW!

The other way you could make up the space is weld a ring to the inside of opening and drop the gauge through (use round bar) just spit balling
That being said they are a super nice gauge and can be fully customized to fit your taste and again can be programmed to suite your needs..(NO I dont work for them )

hope this helps..
Mark...

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by reaper71

To answer that question, I believe the stock opening is 4 5/8" and the Speedhut are a true 4 1/2 (mounting is 4 1/4) so you would not have a ton of space around the bezel and the dash opening.
For a reference you could cut out 2 4 1/2 circles from cardboard or poster board and set in the hole to get a visual.
If you did like the way it looks make a plate that is attached from the backside of dash I.E welded or bolted and drop your gauges through the hole (i used 3 3/8" gauges do to a custom built dash) Thank's for the compliments BTW!

The other way you could make up the space is weld a ring to the inside of opening and drop the gauge through (use round bar) just spit balling
That being said they are a super nice gauge and can be fully customized to fit your taste and again can be programmed to suite your needs..(NO I dont work for them )
I hate to burst your bubble. The actual holes are 51/4. I know because 5" guages don't quite fill them.
hope this helps..
Mark...

I hate to burst your bubble, but the actual measurement is 51/4. I've put 5" gauges in and they don't quite fill the space.

[Texasbuggys]

Post #174 what size wheel and tires front and rear? Offset front and rear? Spacers front and rear and rear end? 2wd or 4x4? Thanks

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Texasbuggys

Post #174 what size wheel and tires front and rear? Offset front and rear? Spacers front and rear and rear end? 2wd or 4x4? Thanks

the wheels on the front are 15 X7 on a 4 inch B.S. and the ones on the rear are 15 X8 on a 4.5 inch B.S. the tires on the front are 22560R15 and rears are 25560R15. There are 2 inch spacers in the front, and only a 4 x 4 reread in the back.